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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Have you run a can of SEA-FOAM, or a good fuel injector cleaner ? Also, did you pull the air cleaner and watch the pistons in each carb at idle, make sure they are all dancing back and forth. Did you open the Drain line on each carb and drain the bowls, let fuel pump flush each bowl, one at a time ?? Have you ever completly drained the fuel tank on this bike. Good idea, to completly drain it, and start with All new fuel. Might be some crud and water in bottom of you tank. A few witch hunt items, ???
  2. GeorgeS
    I'm just trying to explain it in simpler terms for the folks who are Electrically challanged. There are not really that many connections in the charging section. and In less then 1/2 hour they can all be physically looked at, and repaired if needed. If I were to buy a pre 90 1st gen tomorrow, the first thing I would do is Check every point in the charging system, by inspection. And add some extra grounding wires. And ReSolder the Battery cable studs. And install the upgraded stator, if needed or not, and the Dry Cell Battery, and cut out the STator Plug, and splice it. Also, add an extra ground connection to the output plug of the Regulator. And of course, check the 3 phase voltage output of the stator. My bike has had just about every problem, in the charging system, you have ever read about for these bikes. After about 8 years of putting up with the Slow Cranking, hard starting, I finally got it all modified. 2 odyessy batteries,( switched ) 2 solinoieds in parrallel, new #4 cables, all new ATM type fuse blocks, Also, there are 7 item's powered from the Ignition Fuse. I removed 4 of those, and added seperate fuse's for those items. I know, its all overkill, but mine works good now!! One touch of the button, and engine is running. And, besides that Darn!! ITS RAINIG AGAIN IN SEATTLE :bang head:
  3. GeorgeS
    most any of the older car relays would work. some small forign car maby. Just try to find the smallest one an auto parts store might have. Mounting space would be the main problem.
  4. GeorgeS
    Also. the throttle plates on each carb, each end of their shaft's, use some light lubrication. And lube all the moveing parts of all of the Throttle linkage assembly parts between all 4 carbs. Also, listion carefully for any vaccume leaks. But you might have to do a Re-Sync job.
  5. GeorgeS
    Well try drivieing it around like an old guy!!! ( you know what I mean ) for one tank of fuel. I know it won't be easy to do that, but, take some nice scenic back roads, enjoy the sceinery. I bet you do about 42
  6. GeorgeS
    A Dose of Sea-Foam, just might take care of this. Worth a try ??
  7. GeorgeS
    Do an ohm meter check of the Ignition Switch, " On-Off " contacts. These Switches are notorious for going bad. Is the battery Actually going bad, or is is just looseing contact with the rest of the bike ?? Have you checked the Main 40 AMP fuse?? Has anybody checked the battery cables for being Installed correctly? ie: are both ends of both cables makeing good contact ?? Has Anybody checked ALL of the Fuse Holders on the bike, for good contact ? with the fuse itself. ?? Have you check the little curtisy light in the Trunk ( if you have one ) to make sure the Light Is Actually turning "" OFF "" when you close the trunk lid ?? This is a fairly common problem, at least on the 1st gen bikes !! Have ANY, AFTERMARKET ACCESSORIES BEEN ADDED TO THIS BIKE ?? IF so, was a RElay added that is positivily turned OFF, when the Key is put in the OFF Position ??? If none of these items, give you a clue, I would do the following. 1. Disconnect the Red Pigtail wire ( Red, #12 wire ) this wire feeds power to All Electrical circuits, except the Starter. 2. Get a Digital Volt/Ohm meter, Hook it in series from battery to the wire you disconnected, and set meter to the Current Reading Scale. See what if any current Draw you may or may not see. ( Read the instruction sheet that came with the meter if you don't know how to do this, you may have to sellect a different plug position on the meter, for the meter leads. ) ---- Remember when cars and truck used to have an Amp Meter?? This is what you are doing here. 3. If you see a current Draw, then start pulling fuses one at a time untill the current draw stops. Now at least you know which circuit if any is drawing current from the battery. RE-CAP. IF your battery is good, AND HAS BEEN FULLY CHARGED WITH A BATTERY CHARGER!!! NOT, a trickle charger, then if it is discharging, the current has to be flowing thru One of the fuses. So the test method above should tell you which system on the bike is draining the battery. Also---The problem Could/Might be internal to the Voltage Regulator itself. ( ie: its always connected to the battery ) One of the Rectifier Diodes internal to the unit, might have gone bad. ( This would be extremely rare, but possible ) One more thing to check---- Find the Regulator itself, pull the plug out of it and Inspect the plug for Wet, dirty, corroded Electrical pins. As I recall sombody sait the Regulator's on the 2nd gen bikes, are mounted in a position that Road Water Wash, hits them. Several fellows have had problems with that plug, becomeing corroded. OK, these are all just possibilities, a witch hunt so to speek !!!
  8. GeorgeS
    However, in a 12V circuit that is carrying " High Current " ( The charging circuit ) from the Stator, to the Rectifyer/Regulator unit, and Regulator to the Battery. Which is carrying 30 Amps or more !!. Remember this, 1/2 or maby as high as 90 percent of the Individual Strands of wire that make up the #14 wire ( two of them, in parallel ) might be Corroded, or broken off inside the Crimped On Studs. ( at wire ends ) So, maby, only a small percent of the Strands may be makeing good contact. !! Now your #14 wire is only a #20 wire !!! So--- Every Test you can think of useing an OHM meter will tell you that the Circuit is " Good " !!! ---- And it is, for the Extremly Small amount of current the Meter is pumping thru the circuit BUT, try to pump 30 amps thru the circuit, now it gets HOT, and the Resistance will Rise, and you will be consumeing POWER, thru the Wire's, AT the Degraded Connection point-- Caused by either, Broken strands of the wire, Loose Crimps, Improper crimps, or even corrosiion on male and femal pins. These conditions cause HIGH RESISTANCE, and that is equal to a Heating Element. When current flows thru the EXTRA Resistance, There is a Voltage Drop, and Power is consumed. ( none left to charge the battery ) Only way to find these items in the Charging Circuit, is to PHYSICALLY INSPECT THE CONNection POINTS !!! And as long as your doing it, RESOLDER them !!! Of all the vehicals I have worked on over the years, Yamaha has about the worst quality of Wireing, plugs, and connections I have ever encountered !!! When it comes to the Charging system. Put it this way. If you have a 1st Gen, and expect to keep it on the Road, the entire Charging system, Wiring lash up, should be Re-Built !!! Especially the 2 blacks, and 2 Reds, From the Regulator, to the Battery. And the 3 phase plug from Stator, to Regulator, Cut it out, and solder those 3 wires together. That Plug, is a PIECE OF JUNK !!!!!
  9. GeorgeS
    Gold Bond, Powder-- I'm a firm beliver in the stuff !!
  10. GeorgeS
    possibly the photo's are to large a number of pixels-- Try useing lower density photo if you are useing a digital camera. there is a size limt on this site as to photo size.
  11. GeorgeS
    More then 1 gallon of crude oil, is consumed to to produce 1 gallon of the stuff. I think its close to 2 gallons of crude per gallon of ethenol produced. And then you burn more of it to go a mile, then plain gasoline. And you damage your engine. And good crop land that could be used to produce human food is wasted growing the corn, for the ethenol And, Corn for cattle and hogs is now in shortage, which drive's up the cost of meat. Now haveing said all this, Brazil makes it work, because of its a tropical climate, and they can grow sugar cane, to make the stuff. Lots more tonnage per acre from sugar cane then from corn.
  12. GeorgeS
    I think you will find that the bike will Now, Start, Better!!! when Cold !!! Try a set of Iridium Plugs, and might cold start, even better.
  13. GeorgeS
    I don't remember if they are screws, or bolts, but remove the turn signal len's and you can get them out. I think two fasteners on each one. I did NOT remove the upper fairings to get them out. It is a bit tricky though. Stay calm thru the process. If you still have those air vents installed , you may have to remove them. I had previously taken them out before the speaker change. They are now in the junk box !! ( permanently ) ( the air vents that is )
  14. GeorgeS
    OK, its official now, Business Week, mag. has finally said the the Ethenol Industry is an economic bust. And the stuff actually lowers MPG on most vehicals. Nothing but a political shell game !!! ( but we all knew that ) :stirthepot::stirthepot::stirthepot::doh::doh: And, they added that the stuff is damaging a lot of engines !!!:witch_brew:
  15. GeorgeS
    I been listioning to certain politicians last couple of weeks , that statement sort of sums up everything I have heard from all of them. Especially, well you know who !!
  16. GeorgeS
    I went on a 140 mile round trip yesterday, I saw 1, 2nd gen. And 347 Harleys !!! and about 40 JAP bikes,
  17. GeorgeS
    Pull the battery, fully charge it with battery charger ( NOT a trickle charger) then let it sit on bench for 24 to 48 hours, and watch the voltage with test Volt meter. If good, it should hold 12.1 to 12.2 for at least 48 hours. If it drops to near 11 volts, its draining internally. This is a rare condition, but it does happen.
  18. GeorgeS
    Are you sure its not a hose, valve to filter, filter to pump, and pump to top of Carbs. Also, have you considered, that you might have a Float Valve stuck open ??? Each carb has an Overflow line, each runs aft, and down to the rear shock. Fuel , might be siphoning thru a carb, and out the overflow line.
  19. GeorgeS
    If schedule holds , I should be in Sacremento area, around noon to 1 PM Friday. Haven't decided for sure if will take the trip as yet. But looks good so far.
  20. GeorgeS
    OK, and this was a tough one, Here is how a Veteran Aircraft electrician would describe this " Type " of electrical problem. It was an Intermitantly, Intermittant, electrical problem, that only reared its ugly head after the specified amount of Warm up time. And was most likely a Cold Solder Joint somplace on the Internal wires of ONE of the several coils. Which was Intensified by the " Vibration " of the Engine !!! And, the Symptoms were complicated by at least one other probm, and maby TWO !! And--- we also have to assume that the battery was also bad, before you changed it !! OK, NOW, be sure to Smash that thing with a 9 lb, Mall, so that it never gets Re-Installed in another bike !!! Point: Several heads are always better then one, when it come's to electrical problems !!! Ride on !! C U down the road, my friend
  21. GeorgeS
    There are about 7 Items fed power from that fuse. If I can remember them all. 1. TCI--- 2. All 4 Ignition Coils, primary windings, Which get a grd signal from the TCI to fire each plug. 3. The fuel pump relay 4. The Fuel pump. 5. The Intake " Pressure Sensor," that sends timeing signal to TCI. ( find the pressure sensor, fwd, and above the lft , Fwd, Carb. ( pull out the heat shield over two fwd cylinders if installed to get access ) OR, just follow the Vaccume hose from the #2 Cylinder, up to the Pressure Sensor. Remove the rubber boot over the elect. plug on the sensor, It might be full of water and crud, shorting out the wires, 6. The side stand relay ( Check all wireing cables, enroute to the side stand relay ) you might find a damaged wire bundle in that area. 7. The Starting Circuit Cut Off Relay. 8. And Cruz control, if your bike has that system. See, the Block diagram on page 7-1, to trace out the circuit. If the fuse blows just by turning on the Key, then it will be eaiser to trouble shoot. Disconnect these items one at a time untill fuse does not blow, Also, I would pull all 4 plugs, and see what they look like, IF-- one plug is carboned up much worse then the other three, then I would suspect that Ignition Coil, primary winding. Also, Do the Fuel pump Clicking test. Just turn Key on and listion to the fuell pump, make sure its clicking, about 5 to 10 times. IF NOT--- then open one of the Carb Drain Screws, turn key to ON, and see if the Pump will continiously pump fuel thru that carbs Drain Hose. (OR open all 4 and let the pump flush the bowls ) IF--- pump does not pump fuel thru the drain, then the pump is bad, and might be the cause of the Ing fuse blowing. !!! Sorry, but your on a witch hunt here. lots of things to check for that can blow that fuse. Also, pull plugs to TCI and clean, Also, the problem could be internal in the TCI, If you find nothing else.
  22. GeorgeS
    I put in a set of aftermarket seals. One of them only lasted about 10K and went bad. Not sure why. I think next time I will just get them from Yamaha, might be worth the extra few bucks.
  23. GeorgeS
    Looks like I might hit the road next Thursday Morning ( the 21st ) ( early ) from Seattle heading for So. Calif. On I-5 thru Oregon. Headed for Sequoia Park, Three Rivers, Calif. for the Mem day week end with Sister, and hubby ( the harley guy ) If anybody running so. on I-5 the 21, or thru Calif the 22nd, maby ride together. If I get a good start, might make it to Weed, or Redding the first day of trip. 10 day extended weather forcast, looks good !!!! About a 7 day road trip !!!!
  24. GeorgeS
    Most motels have washing machines, so, about 3 days worth of clothing should do it.
  25. GeorgeS
    Well, logic would indicate that the only thing that can take out 3 cylinders, and leave 1 running OK, would be the TCI. Most likley moisture got into it. Remove unit, take cover off, put in oven at 110 deg. F for about 2 hours to dry it out. Find the Regulator Unit, Remove plug, check for water in the Plug, and any sign of Burnt pins. ( I recall sombody else talking about this on 2nd gens ) Also, Check the Run Stop Switch on the right handlebar for moisture/water, Spray it down with electrical contact cleaner ( CRC 2-26 ) and blow out with compressed air. Also find the plug going to the Ignition Switch, use ohm meter, read the Resistance thru the ON-OFF contacts, might be high resistance there. ( but that should keep the engine from running at all ?? ) Another item: Might show some clues. Find the " Ignition Fuse " 15 amp I believe. With engine running, measure the Voltage on the Output side of the fuse. Thats the voltage feed to the TCI, AND the Ignition Coils. If there is a problem there, you Might see low voltage on the output side of that fuse. --- IT also, feeds the fuel pump on 1st gens, I'm not sure on 2nd gen bikes. ??? Another Angle, start opening up Any Electrical plugs, that might have gotten a bath in the Rain Storm, and Apply CRC 2-26, and hit them with compressed air. Thats a witch hunt, as they say. But you just might fix it that way.
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