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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Talk to the owner about any repair items he has had done: Especially--- Stator Replacement- ( If not, it needs one ) Battery cable replacement. Starter Engage Clutch Replacement. ( If not, it will need to be done ) Has the Exhaust Canister been removed, and had the Rattling Part removed, and rewelded shut, by a real welder. ( maby , maby not, ) Have the brake calipers ever been Completly Rebuilt? ( If not, it needs this, ) Have the Fork Springs been Replaced with Progressive suspension Springs. ( If not, they are shot, no matter what he says ) And fork seals. Have the Carb, Diaphrams ever been Replaced. ?? If not, it needs this, ( about $200.00 bucks. ) Have the fork bearings ever been replaced? ( maby needs, maby not Check for Steering Wobble, at 30 to 70 MPH. Hands off bars, does it shimmy >> ) Ask him how many times he has pulled out the Drive shaft and greesed the splines on the forward end of the drive shaft Check the Weep hole at forward end of Drive Shaft houseing for SAE -90 gear lube leakage, if its there, then the oil seal at Rear End of Drive shaft needs to be replaced. Ask if he has ever rebuilt the Clutch, and Brake Master Cyliders, Ask if he has ever Repbuild the Clutch Slave Cylinder Find out if the Electrical plug between the Stator, and Regulator has ever been repaired, cleaned, or cut out and had the Wires Spliced together, ( take a look at this yourself, pull off left side panel and look. ) Pull side panels, and LOOK at the Carbs, if they are an Oily Mess, most likley the guy has not done much maintenance !!!! Check the throttle Pull cable at left Fwd Carb, for Fraying !!! IF Frayed, you will have to pull the upper left fairing to replace the cables !!!! ( Yes you do ! ) Check the Weep Hole, under the Water Pump houseing, for anti Freeze leakage. --- Biggie!! Check for Clutch Slippage !!! HOW ??--- At about 20 MPH, Hit 2nd gear, and floor board it, If Slipping you will know it !!! OR, from about 65 MPH, double downshift, and floorboard it, If slipping you will know it. Check Volt Meter, going at 45 MPH or higher, Make sure the Meter is reading close to 14 VOLTS !!! ( NOT 12V ) If its close to 12 Volts, check the Charging Voltage at the Battery Terminal, IT SHOULD BE AT LEAST 13.8 v with engine RPM at 2000 RPM. !! IF BELOW 13 Volts, IT NEEDS A NEW STATOR!!!!!!!!! About $150 bucks ((( Take a Digital Volt/Ohm Meter with you when you go look at it !!!! Check the charging Voltage, IF LOW, It will need a NEW STATOR !!! ))) Others may not agree with me on all these items, but at 73K on my 89 I have had to do All these Jobs !! Now maby I got a Lemon!! But, --- However, I love the bike !! Doubt I will ever sell it. Its a great bike for freeway Cruzing !!! OK, as you discuss these item's with the owner, He will know that you know !!!! Trust, me, he knows about all this stuff !!!!!
  2. GeorgeS
    I would check the Fork tube Mounting bolts, are they tight? Are both tubes mounted to the same length ( Vertical mount point in the triple tree ) Do both tubes have the same amount of Fork Oil installed?? ( When is the last time the fork oil was changed ?? ) Maby the last guy to re-assemble the forks, left out a part on one side ??? Is the Axel Torqued correctly ?? I agree with some extra wear on left side, but not that much. Frankly on my bike I have never seen any trace of extra wear on left side ?? I'm sort of puzzled with this one.
  3. GeorgeS
    If the 2nd gear issue has been addressed, and also check the frame for cracks around the Swing arm Pivot bearings. Those two issues are the biggies. But due to age, if its been sitting a long time, it will need a lot of work, if you are up to it. Also, dealers don't want to have anyting to do with these old bikes, so most likley you will be on your own, ( except from help from this web site ) Figure on spending 600 to 1200 for parts, and basic upgrades. Stator, clutch, carb overhaul, Dry Cell battery, replace bat cables, maby a new seat, New tires, Brake rebuild, fork spring replacement, maby fuel pump, and regulator unit. Clutch master, and slave cylinder rebuild. If its an " In Service Bike " and the owner can detail whats been done to it, so much the better. But pick his brain as to service work it has had in the last 5 years.
  4. GeorgeS
    Also, remember there are Two more shift Linkage Pivot Points located Under the rear Case Cover. You have to remove the cover to get access ( 6 allen head bolts ) and Oil will come out. Now you have access to lubricate the other two Shift linkage Pivot points.
  5. GeorgeS
    I ran a Conti on my 89, very good results. Lots of Rain here in Washington State. Everybody seems to like the Michilian also . No complaints reported here on them. I now use only the Dunlop E-3, have not heard anybody complain about traction. Again, I do a lot of rideing in Rain her in Wa. State. We have been getting lots of reports about Metzler rears chunking out !!! on this web site over the lasf few years, and word is that metz does not own up to the problem.
  6. GeorgeS
    Well among others, The Best, !!! was the Upgraded Stator, and the Double Odyessy Battery system. And replaceing the fuse block, with a 12 unit ATM type fuse holder. Why?? It starts, with one touch of the button, and no dead batteries now for 2 1/2 years !!!!!!!!
  7. GeorgeS
    This is why I keep telling everbody with an OLD, 1st Gen, or who Buys an " OLD " 1st gen bike--- To take a half of a day, and Clean, and Inspect EVERY ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR ON THE ENTIRE BIKE !! Its time well spent. The Male and female connectors are made of LOUSY Material. It corrodes, and the Female pins, in some cases need to be bent a little to make a tight fit. The Pins Are Not Gold, or Silver Plated, or even Copper. They are low quality junk !!! Clean All your electrical connections, it will save you sitting by the side of the road Note: Aircraft, use Gold Plated Pins, in most case's. OR at least Copper.
  8. GeorgeS
    If you look for a used 2nd gen, remember there was a Carb Change around 2001 or 2001, ( not sure of exact year ) . Earlier ones had I believe 26MM carbs and the later had 32 MM carbs. There is a Horse Power Difference. It is substantial. If you are into Electrical Add On's, figure on spending about $150.00 and a few hours of work to Upgrade the Electrical Stator. ( 30 amp Stock, to about 40 to 45 amps for the aftermarket unit ) Also, the entire Electrical system is quite complicated, so be ready to deal with that. There is also the issue of dealing with the Carb Throttle Linkage, and keeping it Syncronized. ( figure on buying a Morgan Carb Tune ) However for an experinced rider this should be not problem. I ride a 1st gen, which is quite different, except for the Engine. I also ride my brother in laws Harley's ( 97 FLH, and 2003 Springer quite often ) I can honestly state you will love the HorsePower. !! You just have to get used to runnning at 3 to 4 thousand RPM, instead of 1800 to 2200 RPM. ie: much more shifting is required. Red Line on these engines, is about 7000 RPM !! You will love that !!!!! There are a few minor problems, but All the Info and fixes concerning those is " HERE " And the cost of doing those fixes and upgrades is far less then the Sales Tax, on a New Harley !!!!!
  9. GeorgeS
    Congrats !!
  10. GeorgeS
    Question, is you bike running yet ?????
  11. GeorgeS
    So, you found the culprit, and in the process you " Accidentally" fixed a few more !!
  12. GeorgeS
    OK, finished pulling the Head off son's 92 MB , 190E , car. Head gasket blown. And hauled it to the machine shop for rebuild. I don't reccomend anybody ever get involved in working on those things. Then it has to go back together, Woe is Me !!!
  13. GeorgeS
    Sound like sombody before you was tweeking the SYNC Screws, " With out a Vaccum tool " hooked up. ! In other words they were way out of adjustment. I would, Reset the Idle mix jets ( 2+ 1/4 turn CCW ) then replace plugs, then Drain the carb bowls, Check the throttle pull cable for 1/8 inch slack, -- Then set the Main Idle adjust to about 800 rpm. Then Start over to do the Sync Proceedure. Also, just in case the previous guy, really screwed it up. Set the 3 Sync Screws, to " Just Makeing Contact " before you start.
  14. GeorgeS
    Did you check out the Plug in the cable going to the " Pick up Coils " ???? That plug has caused a few problem for folks. !!
  15. GeorgeS
    I have been useing the Orange GM DexCool Antifreez. No mods to cooling system, Never had a problem. Even comeing up thru Calif last summer at 110 deg F outside air temp. It was closer to the Red, but never got there. Normaly my gauge runs about mid range. I don't think the fan has ever come on until I pull up to a stop light.
  16. GeorgeS
    Check that Vent Hole !!!
  17. GeorgeS
    On the older bikes, the generaly accepted TCI maintenance, is to Remove, open box, dry in oven at 110 Deg. F, to remove moisture. then, Follow each wire from the Two Plugs, and Resolder the Connections to the Electronic Board. Use 10W Pen Iron, and Rosin Core Solder. Basicly at that point, it either works, OK, or it Don't !!! If you have not done that proceedure, its highly reccomended, by Many. ------------------------ Another item to check. Follow the cable from the Ignition Switch, to a pull apart Plug. Open plug, and Take a resistance reading Thru-- the " ON-OFF" contacts of the Switch. Use Color Code to identify the correct pins. Also Use CRC 2-26 on that Plug. Double check your Ignition Fuse, if you have not yet Replace your Fuse Block, with and ATM type Block. ---- OR--- REplace the 15 Amp Ignition fuse with an IN-LINE fuse holder for now. Being as it runs, then does not, then does again, I would be highly suspect of that Ignition Fuse. I guess the Next thing I would be looking for is a bad Ground connection. ( Then Main grounding stud locagted Under the Upper Left Fairing Section. ) Its hard to get to. Might be loosing the main ground to the TCI. See diagram for the larger of the two plugs of the TCI, one of them is Black goes to ground. Check that black wire, make sure its got a good ground. Have you ever opened up your Main 40 Amp fuse?? Might be a loose Screw there that holds the element in place, not likly, but possible. I think you on a Witch Hunt here, could be lots of things. ??? Maby the TCI internals, as you suspect, But, I 'm not ready to go there yet. :confused07:
  18. GeorgeS
    First thing, is to carefully Inspect, every Inch of new wireing that was added. Sometimes a Fuse will just " blow " for no apparent reason. Rare occurence, but it does happen.
  19. GeorgeS
    I suppose its possible. Sensor, gets 12 V and outputs 1 to 5 Volts Signal to the TCI. If that 5v goes to 12, I suppose it could damage the TCI. Remove Sensor, apply 12V, then measure the output, and apply vaccume, the output voltage should vary from 1 to 5 V, as vaccume changes. Is it blowing the 15 Amp Ignition Fuse ????? Remove Plugs from TCI, install a good fuse, Turn On, see if fuse still Blows. IF so, remember, that fuse feeds voltage to about 6 different systems on the bike. NOT just the TCI. ( tci, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, pressor sensor, Cruz control, all 4 ignition coils, start cut off relay, side stand relay coil , ) ----- SEE block diagram, page 7-11 service manual 86 to 93--- Remove plugs from TCI, Use block diagram, to Unhook plugs from all other items being fed voltage, then remove Ing Fuse, Now do ohm meter checks of the wireing, Output side of fuse, to ground you should see infinate, just checking the wireing. Check out your Run Stop Switch, maby mechanical defect. Power to all above items goes thru that switch. Now plug each end user back in one at a time, and recheck the resistance, watching for a dead short. Check for Damaged Wire bundles down around the Side Stand Area, Cable going to the side stand Switch, maby damaged.
  20. GeorgeS
    You say 16,000, does that mean you still have the original Front Tire Installed. IF so, is it a BridgeStone ??? ( if so, trash it ) I think an new Dunlop, or Avon, or Michilean, up front might help.
  21. GeorgeS
    Take a plug Reading-- See what they look like Might point to a sick Ignition coil. Might be a sick plug. Time to check carefully for Intake manifold Vaccume leaks. Especially the clamps under each Carb.
  22. GeorgeS
    You want to get them all the same as the master. Make sure there is some slack in the Pull cable. match 1 to 2. Now match 4 to what the average of the left side is. Now match 3 to what u just set 4 to, Now all 4 should be about the same ( you will never get them EXACTLY the same) Then repeat the process to Fine tune. then, check them at about 2500, If big difference there, then try to average out the difference. You will get the Hang of it !!
  23. GeorgeS
    Look where you are going, and you will go where you are looking !!! Guess it backfired on him this time !!!
  24. GeorgeS
    On left side, Use the Single Sync Screw, to match Aft Cylinder #1 to Fwd Cyl. #2 #2 is the Master, Now set the idle speed with idle master set, Under the Left Fwd Carb, ( The Screw with Plastic Knurled Knob. OK, now on right side match the Fwd Sync Screw (#4 Carb ) to the Left Side . Now, Match the Aft Carb on the right side to the Fwd Carb on the Right. One more thing, Be sure you have 1/16 to 1/8 inch of slack in the Throttle Pull Cable !!!! Now, Reset you master Idle to 900 RPM. Now repeat the process. And fine tune it. Now slowly raise RPM to about 2500, and see how they match up ( SLOWLY!! ) Do not confuse the Master Idle adjust with the 3 Sync Screws. !!!!!!
  25. GeorgeS
    Does it run better after the Sync'ing proceedure ?? And run some Sea-Foam for a couple of tanks if not done as yet.
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