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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Sombody else on the site, sorry don't remember the name, was working on the same problem. ( by the way, I also have this problem on my 89 to some extent ) Anyway, he installed a couple extra large Electrolytic Caps, and as I recall he posted a few months later and claimed that this curred the problem on his bike. One was installed, Just after the OutPut, Plug, " FROM " the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit. ( from the Two Red Wires , " TO " Ground ) I also suggest that you Check the " Main Ground " Stud, located Under the upper left fairing, inside the Radio mounting space. Its under the INNER Side Panel in that space. ( Left, and a little Fwd of the battery ) on the upper frame member. There are about 5 black wires going to that ground point, remove and clean the wire connections. ( I also suggest you Re-Solder these Studs, to the black wires ) Also, BE SURE, that the Spark Plug Wires, have good connections, at the Ignition Coils, and the Plug Caps. ie: Screw off wires out of the plug caps, AND the Ignition coils, and nip off 1/4 inch of wire, and Re-Install. The center copper conductor, can be frayed, and Arching, at these points. Not very likly, but possible. If the spark is jumping at those connections, you will never solve the problem. So, I highly reccomend you check this. If you do this job, most likley you will have to pull out the Air Ceaner box, and this good time to replace the plug wires ( 7MM copper plug wire ) and clean and apply dialectreic greese to all other electrical plugs that are eaisly accessible with the box removed. ( TCI, Pressure Sensor, various other plugs, )
  2. GeorgeS
    See page 7-99, for the 86 thru 93, 1st Gens. Block diagram for the Radio Section. Note: item #77, " Noise Filter ( wireharness ) When you got the used equipment, did it include the Noise filter ?? Also, you can buy some Large " Electrolytic Capacitors" from Radio Shack and Install them in place of the 2 Caps shown on page 7-99.
  3. GeorgeS
    I'm trying to keep it simple. ( for those who are not electrical inclined ) The commercially built antenna is allready Resonant on the CB Band. The antenna length adjustment set about mid range, is good enough. Useing and odd number of 1/4 wavelengths of coax is not going to " Tune " the antenna. Or change the SWR, It simply puts more power into the antenna, or you can keep it simple, and say it just works better that way. Actually any length of coax will work, ( Note Yamaha, used the exact length between the antenna and transmitter ( Intersting ?? ) It works just fine. However an odd number of 1/4 wavelengths will work a little better, ( but nobody will ever know ) This is NOT a Ham Radio Station, transmitting with 1000 Watts of power. Yes: IF I was building an antenna from scratch, I would use all the test equipment, and bla bla bla, you know the drill, But this is just a CB system, 5 Watts, All this technical talk is simply not necessary.
  4. GeorgeS
    Have you check the Big Red Switch, for continuity ?? Do you have Voltage " TO " the Ignition Fuse ?? ( Read the voltage with a Volt meter, on both sides of that fuse ) That fuse, also feeds voltage to the Fuel Pump !!! And the TCI, and the Pressure Sensor,
  5. GeorgeS
    The correct length for an antenna transmission line, made of Coaxial Cable ( ie: RG58 or RG 58U ) is, An " Odd " number of 1/4 wavelengths. Wavelength is calculated for the Frequency band being used. If useing coaxial to feed any antenna from 2 to 50 MHZ, thats the general rule of thumb for a " Tuned, Resonant Antanna " Thats what your CB antenna is, a Resonant antenna. 17.5 to 18 feet is the correct length. You can nit pik it till the cows come home, but remember you are dealing with a 5 Watt transmitter, and ground wave out 5 to 15 miles. Wether your antenna radiates 2.5 Watts or 4 Watts, ain't going to make that much difference. And the SWR, if you have a commercially made 1/4 wave antenna, set the adjustment at about Mid Range of the adjuster, and your SWR is well in the ball park. Probably perfect, on channel 19 !! I have been building Ham Radio Antenna's since about 1959, CB antanna, Ain't no different. 73, from N7UY !!
  6. GeorgeS
    Worth doing if you have not allready: Screw the Spark Plug wire OUT of the Plug Cap, and the Ignition Coil for the sick cylinder. Inspect copper wires in center of plug wire ( 7MM solid copper plug wire ) The ends of that section of 7MM wire might be Fried, burnt etc etc. Nip off about 1/4 inch each end of the wire, and re-Install. ( The wire is standard 7MM stock ignition wire ) ( avialable most auto parts stores in bulk ) Also, Check the Resistance of the Plug Cap, compare it to the others. Should all be about the same. Another thing, while your in there, buy some new 7MM plug wire, and replace all 4 of them. ( hint hint ) Also, NGK, has a nice replacement for the Plug caps. ( much cheaper then yamaha ) I been useing them for 10 years, work just fine.
  7. GeorgeS
    Its also time to Replace the Fluid --- Thats more important then the darn switch.
  8. GeorgeS
    Good time to replace the clutch Springs, OR--- Install a Barnett Pressure Plate. ie: No slipppy clutch !!! Kill several birds with one stone, as they say.
  9. GeorgeS
    Yes:---- Remove windshield, remove plastic cover over Instrument panel, Remove panel from bike. Move to work bench. Open the Inst panel cover, work slow, its not hard to do. Just Be careful, don't loose any parts. Once your inside you can , inspect and work on the Speedo unit. Be sure to lubricate the bushing, where the cable drives the unit. Good time to replace all the panel bulbs also-- The tach unit is electric, and works from a signal off the #2 Ignitin coil. There is a 9 wire Plug, from the Inst panel, wires to the TACH go thru that plug. Use a good electrical contact cleaner on ALL connections to the Inst panel. Three wires go to the TACH, Br --- Gy -- and B ground. Follow these to a plug that goes to the bike. Switch on, make sure voltage at the Br wire. Make sure the B wire gets a ground. Then check continuity of the Gy ( gray ) wire from the plug of the bike going to the 3 wire plug of the #2 Ing coil, OR, the 8 pin plug of the TCI. SEE PAGE: 7-1 block diagram, wireing, of service manual. ( if you don' t have its on this website in the Maintenance library section. ( go to " forums " then scroll down )
  10. GeorgeS
    That seem's kind of light wgt to me. I have always used 15W-40 Castrol regular oil, And have since changed to 15W-50W Mobil 1. For about 25K now. Seems OK. I just did a change, to 20W-50W Mobil V-Twin oil, going to give that a try. However I have a Barnett Clutch installed, so slippage is not a problem.
  11. GeorgeS
    But check your parking light function anyway. And clean the bulb sockets. And clean every other Plug you happen to see !! Wherever it is !! Its the right thing to do
  12. GeorgeS
    If the Front running lights don't work, the only problem can be an open wire from the " signal fuse " going to the joint that splits off to feed the two bulbs. Or, no voltage from output side of the signal fuse. Also, check the input side of that signal fuse, to make sure voltage there with key in the " ON " position, Also lock handl bars to left, and move key one more position, and see if the " Park Light" function comes on. ( both left front, and tail ) Or, a missing ground to both the bulb sockets, of any lights that do not function correctly.
  13. GeorgeS
    You said brake lights don't work, then you said they do work ( brake lights that is ) Re-post, exactly what does not work. However, at this point I would remove the Seat, under the passenger section, on the left side, there is a plug, with about 15 small wires going thru it. Clean that plug with WD-40 or electrical contact cleaner, and blow out with compressed air. Also, Inspect All the wire going into and out of that plug. Tug Tug on them, make sure none of them are loose. Also, remove the Headlight assembly, and check All the plugs, in that area, and the plugs on all of the Relays located in there, Migh be a loose pull apart plug someplace. Go over the Symptoms again. What works with eng running, and with eng not running ?? Also, watch to see if head light goes " OFF " while you have the Start Button pressed to start the engine. Also, are you saying that only the Front flashers work, but NOT the Rear flashers ?
  14. GeorgeS
    I believe, when the fluid level is high enough, the switch is closed. So: Just short the two wires together, before they go into the Fluid Resovoiur, the light should go " Off ". Then simply look at the sight glass to check fluid level. Same as Harley, or any other bike. This is just not worth all the anguish, and trouble to fix that stupid switch !!! Anyway, thats what I would do.
  15. GeorgeS
    Be sure you Install a Bosh Relay, to power that thing. !! Were there any Relay's included with the Unit ??? How many Amps does it Pull ?? Thats important. Be sure to take Power for the Amp "" Directly From the Battery " Thru a Relay--- With ALL new wireing!! Also, install a " Switch " to control the Relay, from a power source that is " OFF " when the ignition switch is " OFF " And the Relay must be able to handle the current pull of the amp. What size Wireing was included with that Amplifier?? The Amp, should also, be " Fused " Inline, on both the Pos, and Neg Leads. ( I'm sure the Amp Included Fuses's Lets, see ? 300W, peak power, would be about, 75 to 100 Watts, average power draw ( maby less ) and the Current Draw Would be about, 5 to 12 Amps, at 12V,DC ) Use a power source, thats switched to " OFF" ONLY TO CONTROL THE RELAY!!! Also, be sure the Ground Wire from that AMP, is grounded Directly to the Bikes Frame, or back to the Battery Neg Stud. ( DO NO USE ANY EXISTING BLACK WIRES IN THE BIKES GROUNDING SYSTEM FOR THAT AMPLIFIER !!!! ) Also-- the RED Wires to the AMP, should go to the RELAY, then directly to the Battery Positive Stud !! ( With an IN-LINE Fuse ) And those other items you mentioned, they should also, have their own Relay Installed to power them. With a seperate Switch to control the Relay to send power to them. ------- Do you have the upgraded Stator installed ??? Remember your Stock Stator, only puts out 30 AMPs, Max Current. Average output is about 26 to 27 Amps. The bike draws about 20 to 23 Amps, with nothing added to the stock system. IF-- you are allready useing Two Running lights, then you are allready almost overloading the Charging system !! Basicly at that point, you are drawing max from the Stock Stator, Adding that AMP, will overload the System, unless you have the upgraded Stator Installed. -------
  16. GeorgeS
    Well got the thing back together, it runs !! Still need muffler work, trany filter change, and new set of Tie Rods. But the engine sure runs nice !! 160K on that thing, cyl walls looked good. It had one burnt valve, and blown head gasket. $535.00 for the head rebuild, and new set of head bolts. Well, not to bad I guess.
  17. GeorgeS
    Have you check the Resistance Across the Solinoid ?? Disconnect the Bat cables, from the solinoid, put OHM meter across the heavy contacts, actuate the solinoid, and measure the Resistance. Been a few reports of those solinoids, haveing crispy Fried contacts. Extra resistance drops a lot of voltage to the starter.
  18. GeorgeS
    There are much better seats avialable !! Sombody knows, the answer will pop up here soon. I have a Corbin on my 89, its Far better then the stock seat was.
  19. GeorgeS
    What are your idle mix jets set at?? About 2 1/8 CCW from bottom ? I'm thinking Float valve sticking open, or float level way off in that carb. Open the drain on that carb, run fuel pump, compare to the others as to fuel draining from the drain hose on each carb. Maby the ignition coil , for that cylinder is getting sick.?? Also, clean the Electric Plug Pins, on the TCI. Check the Red, -- Run Stop -- Switch, make sure no excess resistance across the contacts of that switch. That can lower the supply voltage to the TCI unit. Sounds like you will be on a witch hunt on this one.
  20. GeorgeS
    I guess I would start with checking the Float Level, settings first . Then set the Idle mix adjust to the start setting of 2 1/4 turns, thats what I use on my 89, not sure exact setting on 2nd gen, ( different carbs ) After all that, you may have to do a Re-Sync proceedure. I would also run some HEET, just in case water in tank, also, completly drain the tank, and put in all new gas. If that doesen't fix it then I would start looking for Intake Manifold vaccume leaks. Inspect your manifolds, make sure no loose bolts where manifolds mounted to the heads.
  21. GeorgeS
    Photo's of FirStik Installation, and mount. OK, sorry, photo's did not upload. I used the 3 ft. model. However if you only use the CB for group rides, the shorter ones will work just fine.
  22. GeorgeS
    Located at the lowest point, so water, and condensation will drain out. Helps prevent Rust inside the cans.
  23. GeorgeS
    I welded some 1/4 inch thick stock on the bottom of the pad. Helps the angle a little.
  24. GeorgeS
    Have you installed the Upgraded, higher Amerage output, Stator, yet ? Has your " Start Solinoid " ever been replaced ?
  25. GeorgeS
    How about takeing it to a Master Welder, I have not heard of any success with this, however short of buying a new one, this might work. I have watched some of those folks, work magic on things like that. I was thinking of getting a spare, on E-Bay, and takeing it to a welder, just to see if anything could be done to Improve the quality of that piece.
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