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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    Sorry about the Mts. I grew up in Minn. should have known better ---
  2. GeorgeS
    Agreed !! Take it out, and RUN it!! Climb a few Mountains, in 3rd gear ( if you have any handy near your place ) Or just cruz at 60 mph, in 3rd gear for 10 or 20 miles. Its NOT a Harley !! Have you ever DRAINED, the fuel tank !! Have you ever DRAINED, all 4 Carbs ??? Its a good idea to once in awhile. ( Add some HEET, and Drain everything ) and start with all NEW Fuel Has your fuel filter ever ben replaced ??? How long since your AIR FILTERS, have been replaced ?? The Ignition Coils, on 2nd gens have a bad reputation, of going bad progressivly, especialy the rear coils, due to heat, you might consider the possibility of a " sick " Ignition Coil--- How many miles on this bike ?? This could, ( or might ) be a factor. Have you opened, and cleaned, and applied dialectric greese to " ALL Electrical Connectors on this bike ?? " ( Includeing the TCI Plugs ) Have you CLEANED, the Contacts of the " RUN - STOP " Switch, on right handle bar ? AS Squeez, said-- the Idle Mix jets, only effect idle, the correct setting is " about " 2 1/4 turns open " from the full closed position. ( this will have neglidgable effect on fuel milage ) Do you have a " Morgan Carb Tune Tool " ?? if not, get one, and ReSet the adjustment of the throttle Linkage. ( I reset the SYNC, about Twice a year ) IT IS ALWAYS OUT OF ADJUSTMENT, EACH TIME--- If you are getting about 36 to 38 MPG, for average around town, and urban road driveing, thats about normal. If you hit the freeway, and cruz thru a full tank ( no city driveing included ) of fuel, and get 41 to 42 on that trip, thats about normal. ( ie; gas station to gas station, on the freeway ) Thats what I got on a 130 mile leg of a highway Trip Yesterday. 42.3 MPG ( I know, some folks are claiming 46 to 48, by fine tuneing the Needle Jets !! ) I am planning on doing that myself, haven't got to it yet.
  3. GeorgeS
    Thanks for the post !!
  4. GeorgeS
    But you have to get into the CMS ( computer monitoring unit ) and do some modifications. Trying to remember who posted as how to do that, ??? can't remember. Something about bypassing one component on the circuit board. You have to remove the Instrument panel, and open it up. Pull out the boards and do the soldering job. I'm thinking " skydoc " might be the guy who made that posting. Have you installed the aftermarket Stator ? That would also solve the current draw problems.
  5. GeorgeS
    Also, Resolder the studs on each end of both battery cables, after cleaning them. Examine your Fuse block, make sure not loose prongs on especially the 15 AMP Ignition fuse. Open up, and Clean the RUN-STOP Switch. Inspect the large white Plug in the cable from the Stator, going to the Regulator unit. ( maby burnt pins in that plug, this is very common ) Cut the plug out, and splice the wires togerhter ( Solder the splices ) Remove plugs from TCI, and Clean the Pins in Both 6 and 8 pin plug. Check the RED battery cable, where it pass 's thru the fram, Below the battery box, the Left, Fwd corner of the Battery Box. You might also have Fried Contacts inside the Starter Solinoid. ( Replace with new solinoid, or a small Automobil solinoid
  6. GeorgeS
    I heard there is a town in Texas somplace ( forgot the name ) its where the build those huge windmills-- TV show about a year ago. Word then was they were haveing hard time finding enough workers to build those things. I would think good Welders would be in demand there. Texas guys might chime in on that one. Also, word is Boeing is going to open up an Assembly Line for the New 787, somplace in North or South Carolina. If your certified welder for Aircraft, maby check into that. All Boeing hireing is done thru Chicago office I believe now.
  7. GeorgeS
    Maby we should start thinking about a valve stem guide--- I'm thinking maby some oil getting past one of the valve stems ?? But I never had head off one of these, so not sure if this could happen. but worth considering. Oil must be getting into the combustion chamber some how. Try dropping the oil level down to near the lower mark. ( might prove or disprove something ?? ) Did you check the Anti freez, for any sign of oil ?? ( wild card ) Drain the anti freez fluid at plug under the water pump, into a clean container, and check for any sign of oil in the coolant mixture. Conversly, drain the oil into a clean container, and check for any sign of Anti freez i the oil.
  8. GeorgeS
    Examine the Fork position mounting in the triple tree. Make sure both forks are mounted exact same height in the triple tree. Check the Torque of the bolts holding the two forks in position. Carfully measure the length of the forks. Drain and refill the forks with exactly the same amount of oil each side. ??? A few shots in the dark. Did this condition change, the last time you replaced the front tire ???
  9. GeorgeS
    The current draw of the led's, is much lower then standard bulbs. I have same problem on my 89. However I added 9 very small marker bulbs in the Reflectors around the bags, and between the turn signals ( the reflector) That upped the current draw. But the warning still comes on when engine idleing. Adding an extra bulb in the tail light would do it. Or add a resistor in parallel with the LED bulbs. ( measure resistance of a standard bulb ) and use that amount of resistance. Or, you could add two extra tail lights on the rear, powered from the same Tail light circuit.
  10. GeorgeS
    I 'm not sure how the Turn signals are going to be effected by adding the two passing lamps. ( other then moveing or remounting the existind turn sig lamps ) As to wireing up the new passing lamps. Use the Switch to " control " an added " 12V Relay " ( if not included, then buy a Bosh Relay, at auto parts store ) Run Power directly from Battery Thru a 15 AMP in line Fuse ( You have to add it ) ( if not part of the new light kit ) then " to the " new Relay. Power from the Relay, ( when switched ON by the new switch ) then is sent to the TWO New Lights. ---- DO NOT WIRE UP THE NEW LIGHTS TO ANY EXISTING CIRCUITS !!!!--- Use all new wire, that you install for the entire installation: --- Use #16 wire from battery, to in line fuse, ( 15 or 20 amp ) then to relay, and from relay to the new lamps. Use #18 wire for the Switch. GET power from a circuit that is " OFF " when key is in OFF position. #18 wire from that circuit, thru a new added, in line, 5 amp fuse, to the new switch, then from switch to the RELAY, control section, SEE: this web address for a good schematic: www.accessconnect.com/fog_driving_lights_wiring.htm Also:, on the output side of the Relay, I would install a seperate IN-LINE fuse to each side new lamp. This is over kill, but if fault in one light, then the other would still work.
  11. GeorgeS
    Been an odd day here, went to SafeWay Grocery Store for some supplies this morning about 7:30 AM. Very few cars in parking lot. I step out of the car, and for some reason, looked down at ground. There, in front of my foot was a " Live 9MM Cartrige " Hmmmm?? says I, looked around, nothing going on, Picked it up before some kid gets hold of it. Ok, about 1 PM I get ready to go for a ride, -- in the driveway, helmet on, engine warming up, and the little birdie, ( in the back of my mind ) seems to be saying, " no no don't ride today " Hmmm ???, so I take the car, go to Lowes, they no got what I want . Home for about an hour, and Heavy rain storm pops up, extreme heavy rain for about 5 min. In the middle of it is One Huge Thunder clap, a 3 banger. Sounded like 3, 500 lb. bombs went off. Seattle gets very little thunder and lightning! I been here 24 years now, and only heard thunder about 5 or 6 times. But this was really loud, Reminded me of growing up in Minnesota !!! Whats the point of all this ?? I don't know, but I ain't starting any more projects today !!
  12. GeorgeS

    ABS Glue

    GeorgeS replied to ediddy's topic in Watering Hole

    If you mean the stuff for black plastic ( PVS Pipe ) they have it at most any hardware store that sells plumbing stuff.
  13. GeorgeS
    Each funnel has a mark. Rotate them to teh mark before installing box on top of carbs. Is that what you are referring too?
  14. GeorgeS
    Did you power the added item, from a circuit that is " OFF " when key is off ?? With key off, and removed, check the added item, with volt meter, make sure NO voltage to the new item, with key " OFF "
  15. GeorgeS
    I think you might have to pull the clutch cover, and check that mechanism, with the Pins in it. One for each gear. Pull up the IPC, and you will see what it is.
  16. GeorgeS
    The wire is simply 7MM copper core standard Spark Plug wire. Most Auto parts stores carry the stuff in bulk. Also, there is NGK, plug caps avialable, much much, cheaper then the OEM plug caps. The wire simpley screws out of the Coils, and the plug caps, Very Easy to build New set of plug wires !! Replace them all, if you suspect bad wires,
  17. GeorgeS
    Well maby yamaha used better springs in the 2nd gens ??? But the 1st gen springs usually were only good for about 50K. After installation, the difference is night and day, as to front end preformance !! But either way, Progressive Suspension Springs, are so much better then OEM !!! Replace seals, and install new Progressive, !! but then, maby just draining, and replaceing the fork oil will make a big difference.
  18. GeorgeS
    Were the springs replaced on the first rebuild?? OEM springs usually only last about 50K. If not, you need new springs again. ( or progressive suspension springs. )
  19. GeorgeS
    I guess I would suspect the front tire also. Give it a close examination. Is it a Bridgestone? If so, get rid of it. Also, inspect the brake pads, are they wearing even ?? Possibly a defective brake rotor-- Check the brake calipers for sticking pucks !! make sure they are all releasing. How many miles on the bike?? Might be a wheel bearing problem. Is there any greese left in the wheel bearings ?
  20. GeorgeS
    Around town, 25 to 45 mph, decelerating, the tranmission on my 89 whines. However, at highway speed, don't notice anything. Its been like that since new, no worse, no better. I figure its the transmission gears. Just the nature of the beast.
  21. GeorgeS
    Yes heavy dose for a start, but I advise keeping about 1/4 can per tank for several tanks of fuel. But most likley you got it fixed. It would also be good idea to run tank down to reserve, or farther, then completly drain the tank. ( Add some HEET, before you drain that last gallon ) ( use it in the lawn mower ) At petcock. Now start over with all new fuel.
  22. GeorgeS
    Each carb bowl, has a drain. Find the drain screw ( opens drain valve ) and drain each carb one at a time, with fuel pump running. Float valve is sticking open, this is a common problem on these carbs. Might be time for a new fuel filter also. Best to put a dose of Sea Foam in fuel before you start the process.
  23. GeorgeS
    OK, good fix !!!
  24. GeorgeS
    You might be takeing all this a bit to seriously ---- Lets see?? next step would be to mount it on a trailer-- then you could ?? lets see ??
  25. GeorgeS
    Open the throttle houseing, at the grip, lubricate everything there. See what you have then. At the left fwd carb, Inspect the exposed section of the Pull Cable, make sure there is NO FRAYING OF THE CABLE!! IF so, order a complet new set of cables !!! Lossen the lock nut, and adjust there at end of cable, make sure you have at least 1/8 inch of Freeplay, before the Carb Linkage starts to move. After you get the cables freed up, then reset this adjustment. Also, if your bike has Cruz Control, then the " Throttle Joint " might need to be opened up and cleaned and lubed. ( SEE PAGE: 7-137, of service manual, for block diagram of the cable set up showing the " throttle joint " . IF: the throttle joint is causeing your problem, you will have to go in thru the Upper left side fairing to work on it. ( Its located, left side, under the upper fairing )
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