GeorgeS

did you put " both " orings back on. the large one, and the little one ?? The large one's can eaisly slip out of there groove's on reassembly.

First check the 15 Amp Ignition fuse, holder. Make sure the brass clamps that hold the fuse into position are makeing tight contact. ( this assumeing you still have the original fuse holder installed. If so, its highly reccomended to replace the entire fuse block with ATM type fuse holder ) Also, replace the 15 amp Ignition fuse, even if it looks good. Open up, and Clean the contacts of the "" RUN-STOP "" SWITCH on the right handle bar, If this switch is going from an completly " closed position ' ie; Zero Ohm, contact. to a high resistance state, then the Voltage to the Entire Ignition system will be lost. ( Clean the Switch ) From that switch follow the cable to behind the head light assembly, to a Plug, Check that plug Also. Find the " Barometric Pressure Sensor " located Forwad, and above, the Left side forward Carburator " Its hard to get to , but its there. Now, Remove the Rubber Boot covering the Electrical plug on bottom of the Sensor. Its a 3 Pin connector, Clean the Pins, and Make Sure, there is no water or crud in the rubber boot. This item is also powered by the 15 amp Ignition fuse, Try running the engine with this plug removed, for a few test runs. Its also possible that a defect inside this electrical item, can be dropping or shorting out the Voltage supply to the TCI ( Ignition system ) Find the Cable from the Ignition system pick up coils located under the left engine case cover. ( If you loos the signal from the pick up coils to the TCI the engine will quit ) . This " Might " be your problem. There is a 5 wire plug, located just about under you left knee as you sit on the bike, Open the Plug, and clean the contacts with contact cleaner. Inspect the 5 sets of male , female pins, make sure they are makeing GOOD contact. This plug pass's low voltage signals from the pick up coils to the tCI to fire the System. If all this fails, the Remove the TCI from under the Air cleaner box. Remove the cover from the TCI Unit. Put the unit in OVEN at 110 deg. F. for 2 hours to DRY OUT THE MOISTURE THAT IS!!! IN THE UNIT. (( This is a very common problem with these units )) Now, there are two plugs on the box, one has six wires the other 8 wires, Follow the 14 contact to the circuit boare, and useing a 15 Watt Pen soldering iron and Rosin Core Solder, Resolder all these 14 conect points to the Circuit board of the TCI unit. Also, at the Right front corner of your engine crankcase, find the Black neg battery cable, where its grounded to the engine case. Remove the Corroded Bolt, and Clean the threads, clean the stud on end of cable, ( the #6 wire black cable ) and then use a Propane torch , and Resolder the Stud to end of cable. You might have a bad ground. Next. --- Under the Upper, left side fairing, on the upper frame member, there is a MAIN GROUND STUD--- Find this. Its hard to get to. There are about 4 black wires connected there. These wires provide Ground Return for All electrical systems on the entire bike. CLEAN ALL THOSE WIRE ENDS, and resolder the studs to the black wires. Find the Main wire cable ( 3 #14 wires from Stator to Voltage regulator ) left side of bike, above the left foot peg. Open the plug, check for BURNT PINS, DAMAGED PINS, PINS THAT ARE NOT MAKEING GOOD CONTACE. This is a known high failure rate point !!!!!!!!!!! IF PLUG IS HIGHLY DAMAGED, CUT IT OUT AND SPLICE THE WIRES TOGETHER, AND SOLDER THE NEW SPLICES !!!!!!!!!! Find the Lagre Plug comeing FROM---- the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit. 2 red wires, and 2 black wires going thru it. AGAIN open and inspect and clean the contacts. At this point, you should have found something wrong. Consider alll these item's to be a witch hunt, Good luck

Question: Who has the Information on the Car solinoid that is supposed to be a replacement ( other then mounting ) for the 1st gen??? I believe it was some Japanese small car. Anybody have that information handy ?? Thenks

Well, next item I guess might be float level setting -- Discuss this with VGoose down in Texas,

Well as you describe the fuel smell, maby you have a sticking float valve. Did you check for fuel draining from one of the Carb Overflow lines ?? Take a short run, then check for any drips under the bike. Have you run some SEA-FOAM, just in case a float valve is sticking ?? If just heavy smell, and NO drips, the suspect a fuel leak, and the fuel is evaporating on some hot, before it makes a puddle. You might have a leaking fuel line on top of the carb bank. IF a real leak, then it should be a warrenty item. Dealer should fix this. Doing a carb Sync, is not going to fix a fuel leak. But in the process of doing the sync, if there is a leak, it shoud be apparent where it is.

This can be argued till the cow's come home. However, if you want to stay alive, let all other vehicals have the right of way, at all times, in all situations, if you are rideing two wheels. Remember, in a confrontation, the cage Win's!! The biker will almost always comeout the looser. ( If your dead, don't matter who was right ) If you are in a hurry, take the car, leave the bike at home.

Its " NOT " Raining in Seattle this week !!! 90 deg F. predicted all week. This is a golden window of oppertunity for anybody to ride thru Wa. State, without getting WET. ( If you happen to be in the area )

Check the fuse for the headlights, ( first things first ) If fuse OK, check the bulb.

Have you carefully Inspected the Plug at the R/R Unit. Are the pins all makeing tight contact? Any sign of corrosion ?? Any sign that water or moisture has gotten into the pins. ??? Several folks have had big problems with that plug itself.

Check the resistance across the Ignition Switch, On-OFF contacts. With ohm meter hooked up, tap tap on the switch assembly, see if the Resistance changes. You need zero ohms in on position, and Infinate ( open ) in off. Anything in between is not good. I would make sure this is not the problem, beforeing ripping and tearing into anything else. As, so many of these switches have failed! Also, while in there, good time to install a hidden ByPass switch, for the On-Off contacts.

Order from SW Moto, and change it yourself: Not that hard to do, greese rear end and drive shaft, and install a bottle of Ride - On.

As to handling, and general feel of these bikes. They are different then the average Harley, or cruizer type bike. They take some getting used to, as to driveing feel. They are on the " top heavy side ". No modifications, are going to change this much. Also you need to use caution when backing out of parking, or down long driveways. Also, they are NOT good on gravel roads. The bike " shines " as a highway cruizer, and cross country FreeWay !! runner. It is what it is, and best not to try to use it for other types of rideing. ( ie: I never head down a dirt road with my 89 Venture, as I used to do with my 79 BMW, R-100 )

Most anything is possible!! That includes 3 new Yuasa's ( sealed, no water needed ) that failed in about 12 months of service.

If they are over 50 percent worn, order new one's and keep them on hand ready to install. I always have a spare set in the tool box. 15 to 20 K is about average life span for front pads. also, don't expect both sides to be worn the same amount. That depends on how you use your brakes.

If you hook two , NEW, lights that draw 35 Watts each, to any " existing circuit " ( Installed by the manufacture ) then you will be Overloading that existing circuit. ( Yes you will !! ) You want the New accessories to draw " Current " direct from battery, Thru a " NEW " installed , IN LINE, Fuse, going " TOO " the new Relay, and from the Relay to the two new lights. The New Switch should get current from an Existing Circuit, so that it will be " POSITIVLY TURNED OFF " when the Ignition key goes to the OFF Position. As mentioned, the control winding of the new relay draws very small current, and it is safe to add this to an existing circuit. YES, it will work, directly wired from battery thru a heavy switch ( and new fuse ) however, sooner or later sombody will walk away and leave the lights turned on !!!

Well, that area is a very popular area for Seattle folks to visit on weekends, and very populular area for bycle rideing. Tranquil, Scinic, lakeside, etc etc, Its basicly a " tourist town " and not much else. ( resturants, and junk shops ) I'm thinking the guy might have been a EVW, and was upset with loud Harley mufflers, passing him a more the 15 MPH. In downtown Seattle, bikeing is very popular, and if you don't give them the right of way when driveing your " CAGE " they are know to kick dents in your car doors as they peddle bye.

I never heard of the DC voltage going High, before. Ditto, the above two responce's, after checking and cleaning the Plugs, going " to " and " from " the Rectifyer/Regulator unit post again. First thought, is this sounds like an internal failure in the Regulator Unit.

Yes, 12 volt standard relay, at most auto parts stores if it does not come with light kit. Run, 12V from battery, ( thru an " in line " fuse ) to the relay, relay to the lights, Use #16 wire for power to the lights, ( #18 is a bit small ) Now use a Switch, to send power to the Relay control windings, and get the power from a Circuit that is " OFF " when Key is " OFF " Do NOT power your new running lights from any Existing Circuit !!!! Solder ALL the new connections after you Crimp on connectors.

I just put in some Mob 1, 20W 50W V-Twin oil. No particular reason, just decided to give it a try, as was going on 4 day trip. Anyway, the engine on the 89 does seem a little quieter with the heavier Oil. ???

2 weeks ago, I overnighted at Motel 6 in Kalispell, Montanna. About 9PM two Harleys parked in spot next to my bike, both had Minn. Licence plates. Next morning I'm getting loaded up, and one of those harley dudes was getting loaded, I said good morning, bla bla bla, and oh by the way, that other bike next to yours has a rear D-404 worn down to the cords. I suppose you fellows will be spending the morning getting it replaced. The fellow said, " OH, thats my brothers bike, he figures he can make it back to Minn. before replaceing it " I was somewhat shocked at this responce, Hmmm, well, maby he made it back to Minn ???

A few years back, I went thru 2, Yuasa, " Sealed, Lead Acid " batteries on the Venture. One lasted 12 months, the second 14 months. I pried the seal of them after they failed, and water level was about an inch below the plates , both times. I also went thru 2 Yuasa , " Sealed Lead Acid " batteries on my Busa. Both lasted about 12 months. Anyway, those 4 were my Last , Yuasa, Sealed lead Acid batteries !!!! Have Odyessy in both bikes, now, 3 years service comeing up on them, no problems as yet.

E-3 is not made in Radial type, for the 1st gen size rear. Only Bias ply. I'm not sure if they have Radial for 2nd gen rear size.

The E-3 installed 12 mo. ago now has 5720 miles on it. Center of tread measures, 1/4 inch of depth. So far, so good

Remember, lots of folks here are by trade, folks who work with tools. Thats what we do !! Dad started teaching me to fix the farm equipment when I was about 10 years old, the Navy gave me a tool box, and said, go fix that airplane, So, I just stayed with it for another 40 years. We fix things, cause, thats what we do, its our life !! And besides, somebody has to do it !! and that includes your plumbing --- ( in between honey dew projects ) !!!

In 50,000 miles that would be $400 saved, at about $2.60 per gallon