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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. I now run Mobile I in all my cars, and bikes. However, I will never forget back in the 70's this experience. I bought a new 1975 German Opel Car. Had a 1900 CC plain jain 4 banger engine. I ran that car 100 mile a day, 5 days a week going back and forth to work, at the Airport in Minneapolis, Minn. Car got to 125,000 miles. and the Clutch started slipping badly, maby that was my fault. This was tuff service due to Minnesota Winters. During all that 125,000 miles, I used nothing but " Valvoline, 10W- 30W Oil " NON Synthectic, Just the Cheap Stuff, I bought by the case and changed at about 3000 mile intervels. Anyway, I had the engine pulled to change clutch, as long as it was removed, I asked the shop to tear down the engine, and check it out. He, did so and measured the wear on " ALL " the " Dissassembled " Engine parts. All measurements were within " Factory New Engine Specs " for that engine. ie: almost NO Wear, on anything !!!! I asked him to " Hone the Cylinders walls " and install a new set of Piston Rings, and Reassemble the engine ( useing the old main bearings ) . Car was reassembled, and it ran to about 180K, when my son sold it cause the Body was rusting out, The engine still was not useing any Oil. Is there a morel to this story ?? Well, I guess plain old " Valvoline Oil ' Is pretty good stuff. Do I consider the new Synthectic Oils to be a better lubricant ??? Yes !!! But, plain old Valvoline, does the job !! If changed on schedule, and good filters are used. Anyway, thats my story, and I'm sticking to it !!
  2. What is wrong with your cruz control ? If its disconnecting, check the Disengage Switch at the clutch lever. Thats the main trouble spot. With a Volt/Ohm meter, you can test any electrical circuit. Yes, is answer to your question. But you need the Schematic, to work from.
  3. If I recall, I ordered all 4 cables New, for my 89. Was about $40.00. Also you will have to remove the Upper left Fairing. The cable that is broke runs from the throttle grip, to the " throttle Joint " located Under the fairing. Then a second section runs to the carb. Pull up the IPC, on any dealer web site, you will see the parts breakdown. You have to get access to the throttle joint, open it, to replace the cable. ( unless your bike, does NOT, have cruz control, but I assume it does )
  4. I'm thinking that " Clutz " the mechanic was working on that bike, before you bought it. Take wheel, out and inspect everything, as the previous post reccomended. Something is wrong, and its not the angle on the swing arm. And be sure to post what you find, feedback is required on this site !! With pictures !!! :detective:
  5. If those 404's are 10 years old, Replace them !! Its as simple as that. E3, and consider the one size narrower front tire. Lots of folks claim that helps the low speed handling. Also, your rear drive unit needs to be greesed !! and the drive shaft forward spline.
  6. As to the 55K thing, just shocked that you could get one for that, anyplace, ( except Michigan of course ) Ditto on the Renting:!!! Rather then Buy and Rent it, whatever you have for a downpayment on the house you are considering buying to rent, put that money down on the principle of the house you are now liveing in. Over the life of loan you will probably save more then you would ever make on Renting out any real estate. I just got my Real Estate, Tax, Valuation, statement from the county last month. My house Lost, $30,000 in value. And the Seattle Real Estate Market is probably one of the best in the country. Lots of stuff for sale here, but not much is selling, and the asking price's are Holding, at about 10 percent less then 2 years ago. I do a lot of driveing around the general area ( motorcyling of course ) and the same signs are still there that were there over year ago !! Another bad sign for the area, Mon thru Fri. the Freeways, around Seattle don't get jammed up anymore. Apparently not as many folks going to work in the morning.?????? But the Local gov'ts are spending TARP money, left and right on all kinds of make work projects. 2 weeks ago I rode down to Redding, Calif, and back thru Oregon. Took lots of back roads, Every road I was on had Road Construction going on. I could just Smell the Money being Spent !!!
  7. Where can I get a house for 55,000 ???? ( with a garage of course ! )
  8. At the cost of Copper wire these days, you will be surprised at the price per foot for #4 cable. Figure it carefully, it might be cheaper to just order new stock cables from a dealer. Copper is up to about $2.90 a lb. on the commidty markets.
  9. The Angle on the inner side of swing arm is OK, I just looked at mine. Ok, I suggest you completly Remove the Caliper from the bike. and the caliper mounting piece. And the Rear Wheel, and greese everything, includeing the Drive Shaft Forward Spline. That Caliper NEEDS TO BE REMOVED, AND REBUILT!!!! Sorry. Order, Re-Build Kits, and new set of brake pads. You might as well do the left Front side also, as you are going to have to go thru the Replace all the fluid, and Rebleeding process. And you might as well Re-Build the Rear Master Cylinder as long as your at it !! I know, you did not want to hear that.
  10. Isn't there anybody here who was rideing a Harley Hummer, around 1957, an old beater !! ( I think it was a 51, but not sure ) Well, I got tired of 35 MHP, 6 months later and found a beat up, used, worn out, 1947 45 C.I side valve. I guess that was my first real bike !! It was sweet ( after spending $350 for engine overhaul ) at the time. Ahhhh, the foot clutch and hand shift !! never forget that. Double clutching to down shift !! It was an art form.
  11. Ditto on that, Don't bother to Re-Install them.
  12. You mean the FJ is sort of like a Busa ???
  13. Its a better test to Read the AC Voltage on each of the 3 phases, from the Stator. At the large plug, against ground stick meter probe in each of the 3 Pins. Should read about 4 to 8 Volts, AC on each wire, engine running about 2000 RPM
  14. --- Just Be Carefull!!!! don't let yourself get carried away !!
  15. Also, Each Carb, has a drain hose, Find the #2 Allen head screw, that opens the drain on each carb. As you do the SEA - FOAM runs for 3 days, every night Open those drains, to drain out the bowls. ( well, do it at least once !! ) Next week, Sync the carbs!!! ( after the new plugs are installed )
  16. Check tool department at the hardware store: Most of use, simply replace those screws, Usually its impossible to get those tamper proof screws out without damaging them beyond repair.
  17. I just got back from 3 day ride. I experiented with the position of the pad. I found that moveing it forward, so that more weight was center on my thye's instead of the rear of my rear end it helped a lot. I found that the pad was slideing rearwards in the corbin seat, causeing discomfort. I stopped and moved the pad forward in the seat, and took off, and was surprised at the improvement. which seemed to be immediate. Did I explaine that correctly ?? Anyway, it was a good 900 mile 3 day trip to NoWhere! and back. I saw a LOT!!! of road Repairs along the way!! And drove on lots of newly just layed down this summer black top. Smooth, Quiet rideing, to say the least. I guess the TARP money is doing a little good, in a few places.
  18. Well if anybody is interested, and you live anyplace west of Mississippi River, I would think a one way ticket to Seattle airport is about $200 bucks. The taxi ride from the airport to this dealer is about 10 miles, ( taxi ride ) . And you can take off across the western states for a nice summer trip.
  19. Renton, Wa. Honda, Yamaha dealer. Has listed on web site, one new, ( non current ) Blue/Black 2008, RSTD for posted price of $9999.00. If anybody is interested. http://www.rentonmotorcycles.com/
  20. Have you been useing a Hand Pump, to put air in the Rear Shock ?? Or, the Air Hose ??? Thats a No No !!! Will blow the seals of the shock. Sorry, just checking ----
  21. Yup: they need to be a bit wider. I have the old standard folding pegs, work great for me.
  22. Check the 15 amp Ing fuse, holder prongs. make sure good contact and fuse OK. Check the side stand switch. Check the plug enroute from the Pick up coils ( under lft fwd case cover ) going to the 6 pin plug on the TCI. Its located left side, just about under your left knee as you sit on the bike. Follow cable from Kill Switch forward to behind the headlight. There is a plug there, check that plug. Make sure you are getting voltage to the 8 pin plug of the TCI. Remove and clean the Plug from the Barometric Pressure sensor, located , forward and above the Left forward ( #2 ) Carb. There is a rubber boot covering this plug, it might be full of water and crud. This powered pin gets power from the Ignition Fuse. Might be a problem there. ( not likley, but possible ) I know of at least one 1st gen that would not start because of this. A few places to start looking. However, most of the time, its the side stand switch. Follow cable from switch, about 10 inches to a 2 wire plug, ( its black ) open and clean the contact of this plug. Find the Two large plugs going " TO " and " From " the Rectifyer/Regulator unit, open them, and Inspect, and Clean the Pins in both of these Plugs !!!! These TWO plugs are very common trouble spots. Do this, even if you find some other problem. !!!!!!!!
  23. Good time to replace the " Starter engage Clutch " and install an Upgraded Stator !!! Those two gears are for the starter, but I'm sure you figured that out by now.
  24. I guess first thing to do would be pull the aft cover on left side, and inspect all of the linkage Pivot Points. 2 outside, and 2 under the cover. Something might be loose. If thats OK, then pull the cover off the clutch on right side, and check that rotating gismo with 6 pins in it. Folks have had problems with those pins falling out. Pull up the IPC, ( parts list on line, Yamaha site ) , to see parts breakdown. Squeez knows all about that one.
  25. I also heard it was raining pretty hard in KY. When it rains , it pours , as they say
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