Jump to content

GeorgeS

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,137

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    If after cleaning the bulb socket, Also follow the wire's from the headlight to a Pull Apart Plug. Open it, and clean the pins. Use electrical Contact cleaning fluid, ( airisol can type stuff ) on the Plugs, and the Hi-Low switch. If problem still there, might just be a glitch in the Warning circuit, on the Circuit Board located inside of the Instrument Panel. That board might need some resoldering. False warnings, are not un-common. If you do remove and open up the Instrument panel, be sure to Lubricate the Spedometer Unit. ( Where the drive cable feeds the unit ) also, replace all the Inst Panel light bulbs if you open it up. also, if you remove the Inst Panel, you have access to about 25 other Electrical plugs. Open All of them and Apply Electrical contact cleaner, as long as you now have easy access. ( and there are about 6 Relays in there, pull plugs off them, and clean the contacts also. ) I KNOW!! You did not want to hear all of that, sorry.
  2. GeorgeS
    Have you considered a Plugged Fuel filter ?? Water in the Gas Tank ?? I would dump in a bottle of " HEET " before ripping and tearing into anything else. Also, dump in a can of SEA-FOAM, or any other good Fuel Injector cleaner. Might just be dirty fuel injectors, or plugged up Fuel Filter !!! I would deffinatly go there first !! Sea-Foam works for Cars also !! not just motorcycles
  3. GeorgeS
    I recall sombody talking about this. It works, but there is a space problem. The V-Boost assembly sits higher, ie: a Very tight fit.
  4. GeorgeS
    They have more money to spend -- And 100 HP, scares them !!
  5. GeorgeS
    Well, I would look for " obvious leaks " --- If none found, after checking the coolant, I guess I would let the Engine Idle for about 15 Min. then pull out the Spark Plugs, and check for any excessive amt of oil on one or more of the Plugs. If any oil found on a plug, then I would do a Compression Check. If Compression is OK, then I would Suspect the breather system. However 2 Qts dissapearing thru the Breather system, would seem to me to be way out in Left Field. Another thing I might do Is give the bike and engine a good pressure washing, then do some driveing, and carefully watch for any sign of leakage. Something might show up that way. You also, might pull the mufflers, and check for any sign of oil in the exhaust system. ( again, left field ) Also, I would drain the oil, and save it, and measure the exact amount that comes out of the drain. Also remember there is about 4 oz. of oil in aft end of the transmission that does not drain out. ( at least on the 1st gens, not sure on the 2nd gens )
  6. GeorgeS
    Follow the cable " from " the switch, to a Plug. Open the plug, and use ohm meter to read accross the two wires that go to the " ON-OFF " connections inside the switch assembly. From what I have read, if its bad you need to replace the switch. However I do recall at least one fellow said he successfull disassemble the switch and repaired the contacts. But best to order a new switch if you suspect its bad. Also, some folks have installed a hidden bypass switch
  7. GeorgeS
    Best to order a Yamaha New Rebuild kit for the Master, cylinder, and rebuild it. Also, order a " New " Slave Cylinder, and Replace that also. Your just putting off the inevitable -- If you don't do it right the first time, well --- you know what I mean. If you buy an old used one, you get old rotted rubber seals !!
  8. GeorgeS
    I used the aftermarket ones, they did not last long. I'm ordering a new set of Yamaha Seals. Need to replace them again.
  9. GeorgeS
    First just remove the two plugs from the TCI, and Clean the Pins in each plug. Use CRC 2-26, or WD-40, to clean then apply dialectric greese. Second, find the Plug half way between the Pickup coils, ( mouted under the STator Cover ) About half way between stator and TCI, there is a 5 Wire pull apart plug. ( open plug, clean, apply dialectric greese ) Also make sure none of the wires on either side of this plug are comeing loose !! This plug is a common trouble spot. Third, Apply CRC 2-26 to the Run-Stop Switch, Give it a bath, and blow out with compressed air. ( Do the same for all handle bar switches ) Forth, Check the Ignition Fuse Holder, for loose and bent contacts. ( Unless you have allready replace the fuse panel ) ( If Not, replace the fuse panel with an ATM type fuse holder ) If none of the above helps, then Remove the TCI, open it up, put in Oven to Dry Out the Moisture thats in it. ( Unless you have allready done this job. ) This is a very common problem. ( water gets into these TCI units !! ) Nobody, gets past this problem, without doing something about it. Have you ever checked your Maine Electrical plug, running from the Stator, going to the Regulator ?? IF not, check this, the pins might be shorting, or turned into High Resistance, which can drop the voltage to all systems. Have you ever cleaned the Maine Grounding Studs, ?? Under the upper left fairing, and where the Black Batt Cable connects to the Engine Case ?? Might be worth a shot. Also, double check the Carb Diaphram covers. Might be a leak around the Gaskets Check the Clamps, holding Carbs to Intake manifolds, might be leaking. Also clamps on top of carbs.
  10. GeorgeS
    Retirement starts, for about a week, then you have to get to work and catch up on all the stuff you been putting off for the last 20 years. Then the roof needs replacement, then the etc etc etc. It never ends. Might as well go back to work at least you get paid. !!!
  11. GeorgeS
    Sounds like " Murphy " has you in his sights !!!! Yes, something is drawing current with Key OFF. I would suggest putting useing a digital Volt/Ohm, Ampmeter test unit. Hook up in Series with Each fuse, and find which fuse has Current flow, with key OFF. It don't take much. Maby about 1/10 of an amp draw. In a few days of sitting, wa la, dead battery. I would also check the 3 Phase charging voltage comeing from your Alternator, going to the Voltage Regulator. Make sure your stator is good. Back to your " New Battery " Question:---??? DID YOU CHARGE YOUR NEW BATTERY AT A 2 AMP RATE FOR AT LEAST 8 HOURS ???? With a Real Battery Charger ???? ( not a trickle charger ) I also suggest you Remove the Plug from your Rectifyer/Regulator Unit. Inspect the Pins for Burn damage. Determing if any water has gotten into this plug. If you find any Damaged, Burnt Pins, you will have to Re-Build this plug. ( this has happend to more then one person with a 2nd gen bike ) Also, find the Main Grounding Point, Inspect the wire studs, remove the bolt and clean it. Also, Find where the BLack Battery Cable attaches to the Engine, Remove the bolt, Clean, and Check the cable stud for corrosion. ( Resolder the stud to the cable, is a good idea ) Again: Did you FULLY charge your battery??? If the dealer just added Fluid, and handed it to you, WITHOUT CHARGING IT, Then YOU have to charge it ( with a real battery charger ) Remove the battery, Charge it, then let it sit on the bench for about 48 hours and see if it will hold 12.1 to 12.2 volts with nothing hooked to it. IF not, then its a bad battery. Two , Bad , New batteries, boy, Murphy is really after you !!! better run !!!
  12. GeorgeS
    REmove the Black Ground Cable fwd right corner of engine. Clean the Stud, and Resolder the stud to the cable. Under you Left side upper fairing is a Main Grounding point, with about 4 black wires attached there, remove cover from left fairing, and inside the side panel. The Bolt head is kind of hard to get to . But this Bolt that the black wire studs, might be getting corroded. Everything is grounded at this point. Be sure its cleaned up. I also reccomend RE-Soldering these 4 studs to the black wires, There might be corrosion inside the original Crimps. Yamaha did not solder all the studs to wire ends, They are only crimped in place. You might have a High Resistance Ground somplace and these two points are highly suspect.
  13. GeorgeS
    See the Maintenance Library on this web site, for the Mod. Replace the entire Fuse holder assembly, with ATM type fuse's !! Much better!! Well worth the effort.
  14. GeorgeS
    Burn as much gas as you can, as soon as you can, before they BAN Gasoline!! I think we know who " they " are. I have a goal in life, and that is to Burn As Much Gas As I Can, before I die !!!!! And, I don't care what " They " think about it !!!!!!!!!
  15. GeorgeS

    voltage

    GeorgeS replied to jlh3rd's topic in Watering Hole

    At least 13.8, might go as high as 14.1
  16. GeorgeS
    Just change the filter, if you are worried about it.
  17. GeorgeS
    Go over Every INCH!! of all the wireing you installed for the trailer hitch !! Also double check the wireing bundles around the Steering head, with bars full left, and full right. I recall a few guys had problems with cables being stressed when handle bar turned full in one direction. Its also possible that battery has an intermittant Internal Short. ( even if it is new ) Remove it from bike, fully charge it, and then monitor the voltage for about 48 hours, to make sure is does not drop in voltage, with NOTHING hooked to it. Also, make sure it has fluid above the Plates. ( did the guy at the dealer service it properly ) ( Has it ever been fully charged, With a Charger, Not the Bikes system ?? ) ((( YES, there is a difference )))
  18. GeorgeS
    Also, check the AC Voltage Output, of each of the 3 Phases from the STATOR. At the large plug from Stator, going to the Regulator, Use AC Scale on your Volt/Ohm meter, At about 2000 RPM, you should read the SAME AC voltage on the 3 pins going thru that plug. Might be 5 to 10 Volts, AC. Exact voltge not to important, just make sure All three phase's are about the same, within + or - 1 volt AC. IF--- One Phase is substantially lower the other two, you Stator is Failing. Before you do this check, Examine the 3 wire plug Pins, make sure NO DAMAGED PINS!!!! Those plugs are a Known Trouble Spot !!! If plug is bad, cut it out, and splice the wires together. Solder the new splice, and use shrink tubing for insulation over the new splice.
  19. GeorgeS
    Must likley the crankcase Vent. But usually builds up on all 4 carbs. Hmmm ??? just one, thats interesting. I Installed the bypass hose, my carbs stay clean noww. And the clamps for the airbox, and mount to manifolds, stay in place real good now also.
  20. GeorgeS
    Thats why I reccomend, keeping a close eye on that exposed section of cable at the #2 Carg. Check it Often. If you see ANY Sign of FRAYING, there, Immediatly if not sooner, order a New Set of Cables. I also keep that area coated with wheel bearing greese. And check it often. I was lucky, I spotted it, during a week I was not going anyplace, just rideing around locally. Pure luck that I saw it. Also at least once a year, Lubricate the Twist Grip, and Oil the cables. If your over 50K, and going to remove the fairing for any reason, Service that Throttle Joint, and at least replace the lower pull cable, ( only cost about $7.00 ) Much cheaper the a tow in and motel room, and all that stuff .
  21. GeorgeS
    Well, I know your not electrically inclined. However, here is what I would do. I would remove All of the fuses's, then hook my test " Amp Meter " across each fuse holder, one at a time, with Key " OFF " to see if any of the circuits was Drawing Any Current ( measured in amps ) Based on your description of what happened, it could be almost anything. However, you might have very well put in Park, with parking lights left On. Also, be especially suspicious of Any " Added electrical " accessories. Lights, radios, Audio, Whatever is Not Stock !! ( added by you, or a previous owner ) That new battery, I also suggest you Charge it with a real battery charger, at a 2 AMP minimum rate for 6 to 10 hours. ( Completly Disconnected from the Bike ) -- NOT, a trickle charger, a real battery charger---
  22. GeorgeS
    Right at the left Fwd Carb, the exposed section of the pull cable. Thats where I first spotted the cable " fraying " About a week later it broke. Bike had about 60K on it if I recall correctly. Anyway, its not a job you want to tackle out on the road somplace. I removed the upper fairing to change the cables, I'm not sure if it can be done with fairing installed. Maby, maby not.
  23. GeorgeS

    Cold

    GeorgeS replied to MidlifeVenture's topic in Watering Hole

    Its pretty HOT in Los Angeles today !! Check the Cable networks
  24. GeorgeS
    A guy near Port Angeles, Wa. said on 80 M last night, his neighbor's dog was barking, late at night. They went out to investigate, and found a Freshly killed Deer in the garden in back yard, blood still warm. A Rural area, of course. Seem's a Couger, had stopped by the garden for lunch !! If anybody is interested, Couger hunting season starts today in Washington state, but you can no longer use dogs for the hunt.
  25. GeorgeS
    Odyssey, or there is one other brand, AGM technology, dry cell type batteries. Check with "Condor " concerning the other brand. They cost more, but have about 3 time the Cold Cranking Amps, of lead acid type's. I have 2 installed in my 89, one quick touch of the button, and engine is running !! Makes no diff, hot or cold. ( just a little choke when cold ) Also, check out all the Wireing connections, in your 15 Amp, Ignition Circuit. Especialy, check the Resistance across the Run-Stop Switch, and remove the plugs from the TCI, and Clean the Connectors. Also, inspect the 15 Amp, Ignnition fuse Holder, for corroded, or loose connections of the fuse. Also, find the " Pressure Sensor " located above and forward of the #2 Carb. Remove the rubber boot, and Clean the Electrical pins on this unit. It is feed voltage from the " ingnition fuse also " Why??? Any dirty or corroded connections, downline from the Ignition fuse, will inject Series Resistance in the circuit, and cause Voltage Drop to the TCI Unit. Not Good. I know of one case where a total of 23 Ohms of series resistance, was found, which effectivly dropped to voltage to the TCI, to about 5 volts, ie: Engine would not start. There about 6 Items, being fed voltage from that one 15 Amp fuse. TCI, Fuel pump, fuel pump relay, Cruz control system, pressure sensor, and all 4 ignition coils. All these items are powered by that one fuse !!! I reccomend on these old bikes, to open and Clean the connectors on ALL of the Electrical plugs, on the Entire Bike. Takes about 4 hours of work, and well worth the effort.
×
×
  • Create New...