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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Or put it this way Jack . Read thru all the postings on this thread, one more time. Then ask yourself, why would anybody in his right mind ever buy another Avon??
  2. GeorgeS
    Well I did not have cracking, as I installed the Rear, in April, and Removed the rear in DEC, because it was at 10K and not enough wear left to get thru the Next season. The FRONT, I Installed in Aug that year, went about 2800 miles, In Dec, I found a small 3/16 sharp stone had penetrated the Tread, and had an Extremely Slow leak. Yes I could have patched it, But the fact that the small stone had penetrated, was enough for me to Throw both the AVON's in the Trash Bin !!! But, SO many folks on this web site have reported sidewall Cracking, over a period of about 3 years now !! And with the Photo's just posted, and the Rears Don't wear any better then the average brand. And Avon does not seem to have fixed the problem, Why Bother With Them ???? E3's, run to near 20K on the Rear, they have higher Wgt Rateing, They handle just as good as the Avons, So why Bother with Avon's ???? ( And the Dunlops, don't suck up little sharp stones ) Dunlops-- ZERO PROBLEMS --- It don't get any better then that, and 20K on the Rears ! Handling, and brakeing is just fine !! And Half as much time Spent Changing the Tires. ( half the expense for those who pay dealer to changer their tires )
  3. GeorgeS
    I know where it is on 1st Gens, but Not for the 2nd Gen. You will just have to look for a Ground stud on the frame with about 5 black wires hooked to it. Its there someplace !! Sombody must Know!! Sorry, on that one.
  4. GeorgeS
    Dunlop E3 Series tires !! Nuff Said This Avon Problem has been going on for about 3 years now, OK, I got suckered into buying a Set of Avons. ( I admit that ) But Never Again !! I had a 3/16 length little Stone, go thru the Front Tire !!! Slow leak, yes, But as far as I am concerned, that, and all the other complaints, and the Photos just posted here, NO WAY, Will I ever buy another set of AVONS, Why Take the Chance ????? Why, is this even being discussed ?? Over and Over, Avon has Blown it!!!! As far as I am concerned, I have had ZERO, Problems with Dunlops !! Even the Cheap ones, they just wear out faster-- I have a near new set of E3's on now, and I have been pushing them to the Limits, on the road. Zero Handling complaints !!! ( yes I know, they handle great, -- Until ???? then what ?? )
  5. GeorgeS
    --- Vote --- Take 3 like minded friends with you to the poles, and then buy them lunch !!!!!!!!!
  6. GeorgeS
    Sounds like the Float valve in that carb might be sticking open. There is an overflow on each carb, which , Might be the source of the gas. The SEA-FOAM treatment might fix it. Also, there are several sections of fuel line on top of the Carb Bank, One of those hoses might be leaking. But Mech, should have found that.
  7. GeorgeS
    On that loose fit pin, you could " TIN " the plug on the R/R side. Might be High resistance there. Question: Have you taken your Battery OUT of the Bike, and Charged it with a Charger ??? NOT A TRICKLE CHARGER, USE A REAL BATTERY CHARGER !!! Let it sit Overnight, and make sure its holding Full Voltage, This will eliminate the possibility of a Bad cell in the battery. ( EVEN if its a NEW Battery ) If a lead Acid, type. Charge at 2 AMP Rate for At least 8 hours !! Please don't tell me you only have a Trickle Charger !!
  8. GeorgeS
    1ST Gen Replacement Stator ? Who has the Source, and part number for the Aftermarket upgraded STATOR for the 1st Gen Bikes, I lost the link---
  9. GeorgeS
    This discussion has gotten WAY to complicated. Its Simple, you can get Metric Allen Wrench Sets at any hardware Store !! By the way, check the tool kit that came with the bike, there should be one there. You need a new Gasket ( Most likley ) Clean the Threads, on case and the bolts, And re-install, just hand tighen the bolts, I have never seen mine come loose. You don't need a torque wrench, Just use common sence, and don't strip the bolts. They are SMALL, it don't take much. I Always keep extra gaskets on hand for that cover, as it has to be removed for many reasons, ( Includeing Lubricating the Shift Linkage located under that cover ) or wireing for the Stator, or working on the Clutch Slave Cylinder ETC ETC I have had my cover on at least 15 times, I always use a New Gasket, and Sealant, and Clean the bolts, and threads, and check the lower Bolt Seal. Install the Bolts with a Simple Metric Allen Wrench !! Hand Tighten with your Wrist-- Snug them up, and add a little torque !!! --- ( YOU DO NOT NEED A TORQUE WRENCH FOR THIS JOB ) --- Have you ever thightened the Table Legs under you Wife's kitchen table ?? Its about the same as that. Just Don't Strip the Threads, Also, you can get those Brass Crush Washers at most any good hardware store, or auto parts store, ( Stock , metric Crush Washer ) Its NO BIG DEAL !!!
  10. GeorgeS
    Radio Shack , has a spray can of " Electrical Contact Cleaner " OR, CRC 2-26, Home Depot , and maby Lowes, carries the stuff. Great for Cleaning all Electrical contacts !!
  11. GeorgeS
    There was a fellow about a year ago, had this plug Go Bad, Water gets into it. He dissassembled the Plug, and found Burnt and Open connections. In other words the Wires were NOT makeing good connection Thru the Plug. As I recall the plug cannot be purchaced seperatly. He had to Rebuild, or repair it, however you want to look at it. You need to do Continuity Check, thru All the wire going thru the plug, make sure ZERO Resistance thru all of them, the 3 AC, and the Pos and Neg. DC wires. Its possible that one of the wires is damaged, so only a small number of the STRANDS of one wire is still makeing contact. This might show Good on an OHM meter. I think you are going to have to Dissassemble that plug, and repair it. IF possible, maby you could obtain a complete wireing Harness from a Junk Yard. ( well, maby ) Be sure to find the Main Ground point , follow the Black DC wire from the RR to the Main Ground Stud, and Make sure good connection there. Question: How do you know the R/R Unit tested good, ?? how did you do that, on another bike ??
  12. GeorgeS
    Ok, so you have Good 3 phase to the R/R Unit. You have Replaced the R/R Unit. And Only 12V to the Bat. Question, Do the 3 phase wires on your bike run all the way to the Plug, on the R/R Unit?? IF so, then that plug, has the 3 each , 3 phase wires going into it, and the Red And Black DC wires comeing out . ( ie; So do all the wires to the R/R Unit go thru the One Plug, thats plugged into the R/R unit ???? ) OK, Another fellow last year had a very Similar Problem, He found the FIX, Inside of that Plug, Carefully Inspect that plug, you need to make Sure All the Wires are Makeing GOOD Connection Inside the Plug. !!!!!!!! ONE of the Wires, Might Not be makeing it thru that Plug !! Might be the AC, wires, or the DC wires. Use Bright light to make close Inspection of that plug. Use, OHM Meter, and Stab the wires on one side, and other meter lead to Pins, I am suspecting a problem in the PLUG, AT the R/R Unit. ----------------------------------------------------------- NEXT STEP: Follow the DC, Black Wires " FROM " the R/R Unit, to a Ground Stud, Somplace on the bike, ( I'm not sure exactly where it is on the 2nd Gens ) OR, Pull the Plug from R/R unit, use OHM meter make sure good connection to Frame Ground, and Battery Neg. side. !! NEXT STEP: Disconnect POS cable from Battery, Make sure you have Good connectin from the RED DC output connect point at the R/R unit, UP to the Battery Pos cable where connects to the Battery. Next Step:, Have you Checked your NEG BAT, cable, where it connects to the Frame of the Bike ??? the Stud might be Corroded. Best guess's at this point. Its Possible you got a Bad " New Battery " but, thats a long shot ! Have you taken that battery Out of bike, and Charged it with a Battery Charger?? A Real Charger, not just a " Trickle Charger " ???
  13. GeorgeS
    Put in some Sea Foam, also drain each Carb Bowl, after a run. You might have a sticking needle valve in one of the bowls. Sea Foam might Clear it. Also, there are seversl short fuel lines feeding those 4 carbs, One might be leaking onto a HOT Surface, causeing the fuel smell. Sombody else had this same type problem about a month ago, it was discussed, but I don't remember his fix ! If there was one. I would just start checking Every Fuel line connection.
  14. GeorgeS
    My best guess is the Plug AT, the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit !! But Follow the wireing From the Stator, enroute from the Stator, going to the Regulator unit, First, IF you bike has the enline Plug, start there, then the one at the Regulator itself, Next TEST, is to check the Three phases, of AC, on the 3 large wires comeing from the STATOR. They should all read about the SAME " AC " voltage with in about 1/2 to 1 volt , Voltage will vary with engine RPM, But, look for about 6 to 12 Volts, AC. then Check the DC, at the Battery, should be at least 14.0 DC, at the Battery. POST, what you find.
  15. GeorgeS
    Have you checked the reading with a Different Digital Volt/Ohm Meter ??? and the engine running. If battery Is not going dead, I would Suspect the Panel Meter, as being Funky ! Or a bad connection to the meter. Or a loose Fuse Holder, Check the Charging Voltage, with engine Running at 2000 rpm, useing Digital Volt/Ohm meter. If less then 13.5 Volts DC at battery, then there is a charging system problem. Check all the AC, Connections from the Stator going to the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, Clean all plugs and connections. Check for Burn Damage on the Inline AC Plugs, or the Plugs at the Regulator Unit. Fairly common problem,
  16. GeorgeS
    Which Bearing, are you referrring to !!!
  17. GeorgeS
    I hate to say this, but looks like this is the future---- Find a Govvvv Ment Job. There just Ain't much else out there !!! Maby Border Patrol !!! Lots going on down there, They are probably looking for Marines !!!
  18. GeorgeS
    Replaceing the Gasket on those covers has always been a problem. The Gaskets leak, the Seal where the wires come from the Stator also leak. About all you can do, it Remove the cover ( ORDER NEW GASKETS, don't even think about trying to make one !!!! ) Inspect, and clean the surfaces, and Use a Gasket Sealant that DOES NOT SET UP FAST !!!! Drain All Oil First !! Also on the Rear Case cover, Replace that gasket also and the bottom Allen head bolt on the rear cover, has a Brass, O-Ring Seal. REPLACE that also. Also, when you have the Cover off, Inspect the Lowere Coiles on your STATOR. IF the Wire Windings, are Burned Black Color, You most likley need a new STator !! Good time to replace it !!
  19. GeorgeS
    As long as your working in there, you might want to Double check the Intake Manifold, Seal, where the Intake Manifolds mount to the Heads. O-Rings there also, but sometimes they leak also. ( Even with New O-Rings ) I use Sealant here also.
  20. GeorgeS
    ???????????????
  21. GeorgeS
    1st Gen plug wire is simply, Standard Hard Core Copper Spark Plug Wire, If the Resistor Caps are OK, you can just replace the Wire itself. Belden, Stock, 7MM Spark Plug wire, you can get at most any auto parts store in Bulk. ( cheap ! ) Its very Easy to Replace.
  22. GeorgeS
    43 years, Aircraft Electrical, and Avionics, commercial Airlines, and 6 years Instrument Overhaul shop. Plus 6 years growing up on a farm.
  23. GeorgeS
    I have tried all the Brands for the Venture, Including a set of Avons, Front blew from a Small Rock, ( 2000 miles on it ) Rear, Performed good but wore out in about 11,000 miles. Rideing performance, was OK, but as far as I am concerned No better then the Dunlop E2 and E3's A Continental on Rear, had No Issues, and lasted about 12,000 miles. Bridgestone OEM, lasted 7,000, Never again ( however I do use them on my Busa, but those are totally different tires ) My first set of E2's lasted Over 20,000 miles, on the Venture. Absolutly NO Issues, I'm very satified with the E3's now installed. Wear, is right on schedule to top 20K As far as I am concerned, its E3's on this bike untill it goes to the salvage yard !! I just order them ahead of time, and have a set ready to Install !!! The Cheaper Dunlops, They are OK, but wear out to fast, about 10K is average. Sorry, no Harley Tires for me.
  24. GeorgeS
    Pull up the IPC, it shows all the parts of the drain cock. Basicly you have to dissassembly it one piece at a time and remove it. Most likley you will have to order all new parts, the O-ring, and gasket. Or make a new gasket. I would assume you could probable get a new O-Ring at an auto parts store, if needed.
  25. GeorgeS
    Be sure to remove all 4 plug wires, and nip off about 1/4 inch of wire on each end, and re-install them Its just solid core 7MM plug wire. Good time to replace, get it in bulk at most any auto parts store.
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