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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    Get the latest aftermarket system, !!!!!! It might cost a bit more in the end, but to save the aggrivation its worth it !!! Unless your a glutton for punishment !!
  2. GeorgeS
    Has anybody ever come up with some kind of aftermarket electric fuel pump ( automotive, or otherwise ) that we could substitute for this Wierdo Fuel Pump ???? There must be something out there that would work --- Any ideas ??
  3. GeorgeS
    Drain the Carb bowls, and the Fuel tank, Completly, Each bowl has its own drain hose, #2 phillips to open drain. Work the Side stand switch a few times. If bike had been sitting for a long time, maby Crud in the tank got rilled up. Pull the plugs and check what they look like, probably needs new plugs anyway !! Also, with all this cranking and NO Start, better Charge the Battery
  4. GeorgeS
    Thats what " Ride - ON " is for !!
  5. GeorgeS
    First did you move the TCI to the top of the Air Cleaner Box. Thats a big help for space in the area of the coiles. As far as moveing them closer together, should not hurt anything.
  6. GeorgeS
    How are the fork springs ?? If over 50K and never been replaced, good time to install a set of progressive springs. Drain and replace fork fluid, might help also.
  7. GeorgeS
    I would simple replace the Anti Freez solution, Install a new Stock Thermo ( Replace Both Gaskets !!! yes there are 2 ) ( Be very carfull not to Over torque the two bolts that hold the PVC material cover on the thermostate ) If you deform it, it will leak. If its still reading High, I would suspect the Sending Unit, out of calibration. I have never had an overheat problem on my 89, even at 110 deg. outside air temp.
  8. GeorgeS
    Be sure to bring an " electric vest " From Denver, over the mountain's you are still going to hit " COLD " Weather, in the mornings. And, don't forget the Rain Suit !!!
  9. GeorgeS
    3 years ago I pull off an E2 that went over 20K. Still had a " safe " amount of tread left. I cross cut the old tire, and found that the Casing is 1/2 inch thick. ( the 404's are about 1/4 thick )
  10. GeorgeS
    Give it a proper funeral !!! Order a new " Deka " Dry cell
  11. GeorgeS
    Replace ALL the Brake and Clutch Fluid, Replace All the Fork Oil. Lubricate the Lower Section of the Rear Shock ( Pull out the three bolts. and Greese them ) Greese the Swing Arm Bearings ( You need 2 big Metric Sockets, and Torque Wrench ) Pull out the Drive Shaft and Lube the Forward Splines, Change the Pumpkin SAE-90 Oil. Clean up the Rear Wheel Hub, and Pumpkin, and GREESE, GREESE GREESE Pull out Speedo Drive Cable, and GREESE it. Check the Throttle Cable, at Lft Fwd, Carb, for any sign of cable Fraying. Check all the Intake Connections at Top and bottom of Carbs, for Intake Leaks. Check the 2 Bolts on each Intake Manifold, on the Heads, make sure they are tight. ------------------- Check the Large White 3 Wire Plug, running from the STATOR, to the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, OPEN plug, check for Burnt Pins !!!! This should get you started !!!
  12. GeorgeS
    Best to just leave it Stock !! And keep the filter clean.
  13. GeorgeS
    Whenever a Fuse starts blowing, It Usually where the " Back Yard Electrician" has been adding wires, and extra junk to the lighting system.
  14. GeorgeS
    On the Plug, tug on the wires, the crimps of the pins on wire ends come loose. You might have to remove all the male and female pins and resolder them. Also, check all the connections on the pump at the rear of the bike. Open all the connectors and clean with CRC 2-26 electrical contact cleaner.
  15. GeorgeS
    As Condor Says, check that line, Also pull the elecrical plug off the boost sensor, and check for Moisture in the rubber boot covering the electrical connections. Any build up of moisture across the pins there can cause a high resistance to ground and effect the Voltage Level, to the TCI. Also, I would consider pulling the TCI Unit, open it, and Dry out Moisture that might be inside it. Also, as to the Carb Sync, Next time you re-do it, Do a complete reset on the Master, and the other three Screws, ( Back the 3 screws out so NOT makeing Contact ) ie: Back off all three screws, untill NOT makeing Contact. Now check the Pull cable on the Master carb. Use the Cable Adjustment to allow the Master carb linkage to go to Full Closed Position, Then adjust the Cable for about 1/8 inch or Less of Slack. Then Do the Re-Sync proceedure. After completed reset the Master so that the Cable Has about 1/16 inch of Slack. You Must have some slack there. Fishing again !!
  16. GeorgeS
    You said you replace the plugs, recently. Maby you got a sick plug. It possible to get bad new plug. Happened to me more then once. Also. when installing is possible to crack the Porcilin part. ?? ( well maby ) Could be a sick, Ignition coil also. Did you do the Heat Test on the Exhaust pipes. Start engine cold, for few min. then feel each Exhaust pipe, compare the Temp of each pipe, ( carefull don't get burned ). If you can narrow it down to one cylinder, Change that plug again, or try one of the old ones if you still have them. Also might be an Ignition Coil going bad. Also, apply some Electrical Contact cleaner to the " Run Stop " switch. Hight resistance across that switch will cause a voltage drop to the TCI Unit. ( Not good ) I'm fishing here
  17. GeorgeS
    6 to 10 lb is about the range you should see. If you have progressive springs in front forks, you do not need any air pressure in the front.
  18. GeorgeS
    OK !! Nothing like success when an electrical problem is fixed. Don't forget to ReCharge the Battery after all this. Also, seal up that plug to keep water from getting in there again ( yes it will ! ) C U down the road my friend !!!
  19. GeorgeS
    I'm in Seattle !! ( Rain, whats that ?? ) This is Dunlops, ( GOLDWING TIRE ) !!!
  20. GeorgeS
    Check the hose running up to the " Pressure Sensor " Pull the Electric plug off that sensor, check for Moisture inside the Rubber boot over the electrical plug there. Also, check your Run Stop, Switch, for High Resistance. Pull the plugs, looking at them might show which cylinder is the culprit. Did you do the Exhaust pipe, heat check ? Also, you might consider Moisture Inside of the TCI Unit. effecting one cylinder fireing.
  21. GeorgeS
    Sorry about the Damage, and Accident. However-- this is the Best Story, I've heard in a long time !!! Was there any " Road Kill " left over ???
  22. GeorgeS
    Well, at least 16K , The last E2 I had on went over 20K
  23. GeorgeS
    Wear photo my E3 at 9,060 Miles. Also, if you cross cut an old E3 Caseing you will find the caseing is almost 1/2 inch thick under the Tread. The Cheaper Dun 404 Series tires, have a caseing thickness of about 1/4 inch.
  24. GeorgeS
    E3 Installed July 08, at 69,060 Miles. Bike now at 78,660 miles. 9,060 Miles on this E3. Photo's attached.
  25. GeorgeS
    Order the E3, Front . One more thing about the Dunlops, The Caseings are about twice as thick !!! I know, cause I cross cut them to check !!!! A 3/16 inch little stone will not puncture the Dunlop, like the Avon Front I had. And they last longer !! And they cost about the same price,
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