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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Next day, drain the bowls again: After you get it running, put about 1/2 can of Sea Foam, per tank, and Run it " Hard " for a couple of tanks of fuel. A new set of plugs might be in order, also. If all this does not do the trick, then start cleaning electrical plugs, Start with the TCI, and the Plug in the cable going from the TCI down to the " Ignition Pick UP Coiles " Next thing, would be to start looking for " Intake Air Leaks" above and below the Carbs, also check the Intake Manifold bolts, where mounte to the heads.
  2. GeorgeS
    Best to pull up the Service Manuel, and read thru the process. Service Manuel is posted On this web site, in the " maint section " Don't start messing with the carb sync, untill you completly understand what you are doing. However, haveing said the above, its actually a very simple process once you have the tool, and an understanding of what you are doing. Only thing the manuel does not call out, is that it is necessary to have about 1/16 to 1/8 inch of " free play " at the " pull cable " on the master carb ( left side , front carb )
  3. GeorgeS
    Check the Contact fingers for the Ignition Fuse, They are notorious for coming loose, and breaking OFF. IF SO, replace with an " IN LINE FUSE " . Avialable at any auto parts store. It feeds power to about 7 different items. This fuse, if open will " kill" the following items: Fuel pump, TCI, Fuel pump RElay, Tachometer, Barro pressure sensor, And several other relays . Also, check the Battery Ground cable where it connects to the Crankcase at front, right corner of the engine. Battery might be shorting out " Internally " -- fix here, obvious, a new battery. In short, Open Ignition fuse, you are No GO !!!
  4. GeorgeS
    Did you do the " cold start up test " ?? Start engine, " cold " let run for about 1 min, then feel the pipes to check for one being " colder then the rest of them "
  5. GeorgeS
    I would estimate about 1200 to 1500$ worth of parts, plus the cosmetic work, whatever that would cost. Lots of work!! But if you need a project--- ??? well maby. However as an example, if you could find one in very good condx, I would estimate about $2500 to $3000 would be maximum value. If you really want it, don't go over $500 offer. The guy let it deteroriate, and did not spend money for obvious " Fix's " that we here all know about. No reason for you to pay for repairs he did not do.
  6. GeorgeS
    I would try some type of lubricant, make sure none of the screws, or bolts are comeing loose. I found loose bolts on my latches, and the hinges on the trunk cover.
  7. GeorgeS
    OK, one last item here. I know you put in a " New " battery as you said. But, did you Charge the New Battery ??? As per the MFG instructions, with a " real battery charger " not just the trickle charger.
  8. GeorgeS
    Also, "anything " that causes low voltage to the " TCI " can cause hard starting. Possible, ageing battery, bad or damaged pin's at the R/R Unit, Resistance across the ignition switch, resistance across the Run-Stop Switch, corroded pins in any of the " Many " pull apart plugs of the wireing system. Check your NO Load Voltage on your battery, make sure you have at least 12.2 volts, at full charge , Key Off !! If your battery is over 3 years old, consider replaceing it. ( I recomend a DEKA, AGM type Dry Cell--- Talk to " CONDOR " about this, or, and Odyessy AGM type Dry Cell ) Have you CHARGED YOUR BATTERY LATLEY !! With a Charger, ( not just a trickle charger!!) Have you checked the fluid level in the battery??? If its a sealed battery, hold it up; to a BRIGHT LIGHT, and be sure the water level is ABOVE the plates. If its a sealed unit, and water level is low, its toast !! With Engine running, check your Charging system voltage at Pos Battery terminal, make sure its at least 13.2 to 13.4 Volts, at 2000 RPM. ON 2nd gen bikes, several folks have found bad Pins at the Plug going into the R/R Unit. Not easy to fix. LOW Voltage, to the TCI unit will cause Hard starting, BE sure your Alternator is putting out correct charging Voltage !!!!! ( 13.8 or higher )
  9. GeorgeS
    Check the small switch on the clutch lever. They come loose, and do not contact the clutch lever, thus disengaging the Cruze Control Circuits. With clutch engaged, the contacts of this switch should be " closed " . The brakes also have switch's that will dissengage the cruse control. That might be where you problem is. But its usually at the clutch lever. The Speedometer is all mechanical, operated by the rotating cable, inside the Sheath from Speedo down to the mechanism at the left side of the front Axe. I would reccomend removing the front axel, and checking the connecting point of the cable to the speedo unit on the left side of the front axel.
  10. GeorgeS
    Maby a close inspection of the other cover lock unit, would give some clues as to how to open the stuck unit.
  11. GeorgeS
    There is a hose, top of tank, near filler neck. Remove the hose, at top of tank, and you will find a brass insert, with a very small hole drilled thru it. Check to make sure the small hole is " Not Plugged " . A few folks have found it plugged.
  12. GeorgeS
    This well was headed for 30,000 feet below the Sea Floor. They were going for " Abiotic Oil Deposits " Generaly that means Oil that forms deep, below 25,000 feet. The theory is that this oil is NOT from decomposed ancient plant life. But is constantly being formed by some process deep in the earth. This is a hottly debated subject ?? The Russians were first to discover massive Oil deposits, below 25,000 feet. ( about 15 to 20 years ago ) Any well you hear about that is being drilled to the 30,000 foot level, means that they are going for the " Abiotic Oil Deposits " Down at those levels, the temperature is very High, and the pressure is Very High. Note that the oil from this well is flowing up at Very High Pressure. Not your average Texas Oil Well. Its a different animal. In general, the public is not aware, of the Massive Oil Deposits that have been found below, 25,000 feet at many places around the planet. Russians are presently pumping several wells off the north tip of Sakalin Island, on the East coast of Siberia, these wells are 25K deep plus wells. Japan buys All of the Oil from them. Also several deep wells being drilled off East coast of Brazil-- ( Deep Wells ) A second 30,000 foot well is currently being drilled about 150 mi. SE of New Orleans. --------------------- What does this all mean ??? Basicly, the theory is that There is NO OIL SHORTAGE--THERE ARE MASSIVE DEPOSITS OF OIL, BELOW 25,000 FEET, in many areas, and this oil is of almost limitless supply, and the planet is replaceing it !!! This is a hottly debated subject, and the -- " Enviromentalists " --- don't believe it, and if it is true, they don't want you to know about it !!!!!!!!!!!!! Is it true ?? Well apparently the Oil Companies, believe it because about 30 of the Rigs, that can Drill to the Depths of 30,000 feet, and in some cases, 40,000 feet have been built at great expense. -------------------------- I have been researching the current mess, apparently there is a second fissure spewing oil in the vicinity of the current blow out, and its not being reported on the 6 PM news programs. ( this is speculative, I have not found positive info on this rumor ) There is also talk of some fissures opening up in the general area of this well. I have also found some information, ( speculative of course ) that there may have been some Sizemic ( earth quake ) activity in the area of this well, that " Might " have had something to do with the current blow out. ( remember, the earthquake in Hatie, not that long ago, and not that far away ) ---------------- Bottom line here, is that Oil from below 25,000 feet, is not Decomposed, dead Dinasors, and rotted jungles as we have been told all these years. Do " Google Search " for " Abiotic Oil " " 30,000 foot Oil Wells " etc etc. You will be surprised what you find!!! --- WE ARE NOT RUNNING OUT OF OIL !!! ( no matter what the Envrio Whacko's are telling you )
  13. GeorgeS
    Clean the contacts of both plugs on the TCI Unit. Open and Clean the contacts of the " Run-Stop" Switch. ( if high resistance here this can lower the voltage to the TCI unit. Find the 5 wire cable runs from the " Pick Up Coiles " and goes to the TCI unit, about 1/2 way on this cable there is a pull apart plug. ( 5 pin ). Find it, open it, and Clean the contacts, make sure the male and female pins are makeing good contact. Find your Rectifyer/Regulator unit--- Remove the Plug, Inspect for Burnt Pins, and loose connections. Clean the Pins, Make sure there is NO Moisture in the Plug. ---- Have you found the " Drain Valves " on the Carbs ??? If Not, find the drain screw on each Carb, and completly drain the bowls. One at a time, turn key to ON position and let the Fuel pump run fuel thru each carb, to flush out the bowl. ------- Do them one at a time, make sure all four carbs flush fuel at the same rate. Find your mail fuse block, make sure good contact on the " Ignition Fuse " holder. ---- You might have a High Resistance, contact across the Main Ignition Switch!! The Ignition Switches on these bikes are KNOWN PROBLEM SPOTS-- Lots of folks have had to REPLACE the Ignition Switch. High resistance across the Main contacts, will " LOWER THE VOLTAGE TO THE TCI UNIT ", ---- You might have Moisture in your TCI Unit, Remove it, and put in OVEN at about 110 deg. F, for an hour or so, to dry out any moisture, that might be in the unit. ------------------------------ All the above items, are shots in the dark so to speak-- But, worth checking
  14. GeorgeS
    Consider staying away from the cars ! They never see us, and that " Ain't going to change any time soon "
  15. GeorgeS
    If you have " Low voltage " its not a light bulb problem. If your battery is fully charged, and there is " NO " bad wireing, the voltage should never go below 11.8 with All lights " ON " and engine " OFF ". ( IF battery is fully charged ) With Engine running, the voltage should never go below about 12.5 With EVERYTHING ON !! . If you are getting a substantial drop in voltage after hooking up this " light Strip ' as you say, then there is something wrong with it. Recheck all the new wires you are useing. Check your Charging voltage at the Battery Terminal, with engine running, it should be at least 13.2 volts or higher, Use a test voltmeter, not the gauge. With engine " OFF " your Lead Acid battery if fully charged, should read 12.2 to 12.3 volts. IF NOT, Check the fluid level in the battery, and Re-Charge it !! ( Use a charger, not a trickle charger ) Charge at 2 Amp rate or higher for at least 5 hours.
  16. GeorgeS
    Also, under the Air Cleaner box, pull the two plugs out, and dry, and clean the contacts. ( 6 on one plug, 8 on the other plug ) Also, check the Red, " Run - Stop " Switch on the right handlebar. Any excess resistance across that switch, will lower the voltage to the Ignition System.
  17. GeorgeS
    I would run a good dose of Sea-Foam in the Gas. Then re-do the Sync. Also, be sure that the Throttle " Pull " cable at the Left Fwd, carb, has about 1/16 to 1/8 inch of freeplay, before the Linkage starts to move, when actuating the throttle. Also, check for Intake leaks, between the Air cleaner and the Carbs, and the bottom of the carbs, at the intake manifolds.
  18. GeorgeS
    If you do decide to rebuild, I strongly suggest getting stock OEM parts.
  19. GeorgeS
    Yes!! Progressive Springs !!!!!!!! I used aftermarket seals, they did not last very long. Re-installed OEM Seals, so far so good. The difference between Progressive Springs, and OEM, is Day and Night !!!!! You will be happy with them
  20. GeorgeS
    I have home brewed a lot of ham radio antenna's. And a few Radio's in my day !! ( If your into Ham radio, this will make sence to you, otherwise, ignor )
  21. GeorgeS
    Next time, install Dunlop, E3's Have you pulled the Electrical connector from the Regulator Unit, and Checked for burn damage, and any sign of water getting into the plug ?? ie: be sure its sealed from water ingress.
  22. GeorgeS
    Useing a test Voltmeter, check the battery voltage, under NO Load Condx. ie: Everything turned off !! Whats the voltage?? If below 11.8 Volts, ( which I suspect you will find ) then, " charge the battery at 2 amp rate for about 6 hours " Check the Fluid level in the battery before charging. Clean the Contacts of the " Run-Stop" switch !! Check battery connections, clean, and tighten. Check the Battery Cable connection at the Starter Terminal, Remove and clean the Pos Stud on the Starter. Check the Negative battery Cable where it connects to the Engine block. ( right fwd corner) remove the bolt, and clean it. However, haveing said all of the Above--- I think you need a New Battery !!! I suggest either an " Odyessy, or Deka, AGM Dry Cell type "
  23. GeorgeS
    Pull the Plug out of your Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, and Carefully Inspect the Pins inside that plug for any signs of Burn Damage !!! Any, extra resistance across these pins will lower the Voltage. Be sure water and road spray cannot get into this plug !!!!!!
  24. GeorgeS
    I took a car trip about 350 miles yesterday, south on I-5 about 80 miles, then over to the coast to Raymond Wa. then N to Westport Wa. then back to Seattle. Testing my new Ham Radio setup in the Blazer. Anyway, Bikes on the Road !!!! Unbelievable how many groups of riders were out. First Warm Sunny day in a few weeks here. And the Bikers were out in force, Groups of 5 to 20 bikes, one after another !!! I've been rideing in Wa State for about 25 years now, and never seen so many bikes on the road in one day !!! I guess the folks who do still have a job are takeing advantage of Fire Sales, on new Harleys, and whatever !!! Never saw so many new Harleys on the road !!! And!! old ladies in their 70's, rideing Harleys !!!! I must have seen 20 of them !!! Whats Grandma been drinking ????
  25. GeorgeS
    I always Back into Downhill parking spaces !!!! You don't want to have to push these things backwards out of a parking Space !!!! When backing bike out of my garage and down my fairly long drive way, I always keep the Side Stand down, and favor the left side a little untill I get the bike in position to drive away. And, I make sure the engine is not running, when backing down my drive way, Its a little down hill. Yes, they are top heavy, Always try to Load your Heavy Items in bottom of bags, and even out the weight from side to side. I second the advice , to use an empty parking lot on Sunday morning to practice low speed manevuring, with the beast !!!
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