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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Ok, as above, I'm thinking Air pressure in the Rear Shock. Also, possibility that the Shock Linkage's need to be greesed. --- How many miles is on this bike? Have you ever greesed the lower linkage bolts ?? you have to pull out the bolts to greese them-- If over 50K on this bike, I highly reccomend removeing the lower Linkage bolts, and Cleaning and Greasing them, and consider installing ZERK, fittings, so next time you can do the job with a greese gun!! --- Also, at this point I would be considering removeing the rear drive unit, and pulling the Drive Shaft, to " Inspect " the Splines on both ends of the Drive Shaft, and Re-Greasing the Splines. This has to be done by hand. And of course, change the SAE-90 Rear Drive Oil. With Wheel removed, and bike on jack, does an inspection of the frame, or fender, or any of the Saddle Bag, parts show any sign of the tire wearing ?? Any Shinny spots on anything ??? Look for Loose parts!! One more item to check: You have Rear Caliper removed. Inspect the " INNER PAD " Is the inner pad worn more then the outer pad?? Is the Inner pad worn at an Angle ??? I would also carefully inspect the Caliper Mounting points for any sign of a problem
  2. GeorgeS
    Check the charging voltage at about 2300 RPM, with digital voltmeter. Be sure you see about 13.6 to 13.8 volts. If lower then that, then check the large 3 wire plug between the Stator, and the Rectifyer/Rectifyer Unit. Open the plug, and Inspect the male and female pins for being burnt. Any excess resistance in that plug will lower the voltage to everything. Also, check the Run Stop , Red Switch on handle bar, for High Resistance. Any Excess resistance here will lower the voltage to the TCI, Not good, during the start Sequence. Might be a good idea to charge the battery with a Real Battery charger, not just a trickle charger. Also, check the " Ignition fuse " for good Contacts, Also, clean the Pins of the TCI Unit.
  3. GeorgeS
    On most of the 1st gens, the line from that carbs vaccume port, does go up to the Barro Sensor. and has a T, which goes to a port under the front, bottom of the Air cleaner box. At least my 89 does. Its possible that its been removed on some of the 1st gens. However that would take out the Barro Sensor, and the Timeing advance function. But most folks would not even notice if the barro sensor was not working.
  4. GeorgeS
    Have you done the following items. 1. Drain all 4 Carb Bowls, with Sea Foam added to the gas, ( Each carb seperatly, and turn key to ON so fuel pump will force gas thru each carb bowl seperatly ) Make sure all 4 have about equal flow. 2. Completly drain the gas tank if you have not done so, that bottom gallon has been sitting in there a long time . 3. Have you replaced the Fuel filter ??? 4. I would pull the 4 Plugs, and mark which cylinder each came from. How do the plugs look??? I you have digital camera, post photo of the plugs. 5. Remove the Air Filter, and with hot engine, run, and watch the Pistons in all 4 carbs " Danceing back and Forth " The Motion on all 4 should be the same, --- If one or more is not danceing, then pull the cover off that Carb, and Inspect the Rubber Diaphram. ---- Beginning to sound like you may need a new set of diaphrams. 6. RED--- RUN,STOP SWITCH--- Folow the cable from that switch to up under the headlight, to a pull apart plug. Open the plug, and take a Resistance reading Thru the "Run-Stop" Switch. ---- IT MUST READ ZERO OHMS, Any resistance across that Switch, will " lower " the operating voltage to the TCI. 7. You "might" Just need a carb Sync Proceedure done on your bike. Pull up the Service Manual, its on line this web site, in Maintenance section. Read up on the proceedure, if you have never done it before. Take a look at the Throttle PULL cable at the left fwd Carb. Check to see if the Pull cable has about 1/16 to 1/8 inch of free play before the mechanicanal linkage starts to move when you add throttle. IF not, it pretty sure you need to sync the carbs. 8. With Engine COLD. do the Hot Pipe feel test. Start engine and run for about 60 Seconds, and shut down, then feel each Exhaust Header, Make sure ALL 4 are about the same temp. IF one is Cold, then you know which cylinder has the problem. 9. Have you checked for " Intake Air Leaks, Above, and below each Carb, and also check the 2 bolts on each Intake manifold, where mounts to the Cylinder Head. Leaks, at the cylinder head are fairly common. Be sure to Check those big Clamps above and below each Carb!! 10. Be Sure that All the Hoses's UNDER the AIR Box, are in place and hooked up. 11. Make sure the caps on all 4 Vaccume ports are Sealing tight !!! 12. From the Left Fwd Carb, follow the vaccume lines, from the vaccume port, up to the "Barometric Pressure Sensor " Its located Fwd, and Above the left Fwd Carb. The hose Might be loose from the Sensor. Also this hose has a "" Tee Fitting "" about half way, and the line off the TEE goes to a port, under, front, center, of the Air Filter Box. MAKE SURE ITS IN PLACE AND NOT LEAKING. 13. When you get to the Barrometric Sensor, Pull OFF the Rubber Boot covering the Electrical Plug on the Sensor, I know of at least one 1st Gen, that quit running because there was water, and crud, and stuff, growing in the boot, causeing a High Resistance Connection Across the 3 Pins. THIS WILL ALSO LOWER THE VOLTAGE GOING TO THE TCI !!!!-----NOT GOOD, NOT GOOD. I list all the above, in no particular order, a witch hunt so to speak !!!
  5. GeorgeS
    I always put some kind of backing material in place behind the crack repair. Or fiberglass body repair material. There is usually plenty of space behind the plastic for the backing material. This will double and triple the strength of the areas that are prone to cracking.
  6. GeorgeS
    I would do a complet tank drain, and carb bowl drain before ripping and tearing anything else. Then run a tank of SEA- FOAM, and re-evaluate the situation. Before replaceing the plugs. Then do a Carb Re-Sync---
  7. GeorgeS
    I would go looking for a "wrecked " 99 Busa, and do an engine swap !!!!!
  8. GeorgeS
    I have a New E3 on my work bench I just measured the caseing thickness, at the point shown on your photo. The caseing is 1/2 inch thick at that point, nothing for you to worry about. That ridge that is torn in your phot is just a measure point to show that the tire is fully seated on the rim. My verdict is that you " hit the road" have a good trip, drive safe my friend !!
  9. GeorgeS
    Did you re-install the Axel Washer in the correct position?
  10. GeorgeS
    Also, completly drain the fuel tank after you get it run down close to empty. Simply remove the hose from petcock to drain. flush the tank another time. Then, open the Drain on Each Carb bowl, and let the fuel pump run, and pump fuel thru each carb bowl drain for a few min. each one seperatly. You want to make sure fuel is freely flowing thru each carb. Also its advisable to replace the fuel filter-- With engine hot, remove the Air Filter cover, and filter, watch the Carb pistons " Danceing back and forth, to see if all for seem to be functioning. If not, they you might have a problem with the Diaphrams. As above-- take the bike out and ride it hard !!! for a few tanks, then a new set of plugs, and a Carb Sync, would be called for. Also, lubricate all of the carb mechanical linkage Also, check the Clamps above, and below the carbs, Intake leaks are a big problem on these bikes. Also, check the 2 bolts on each intake manifold, right at the cylinder head. These are allen head bolts, and not easy to get a wrench on all of them.
  11. GeorgeS
    Air it up, bleed off a couple of times, and let it sit for a few days, and re-check the pressure. If OK, put in a bottle of " Ride - On " and you should be good to go. If you do pull the wheel, be sure to pull the drive shaft and greese the splines !! and of course the rear drive unit.
  12. GeorgeS
    I use it in all my vehicals. I now use 20 W 50W, Mobile 1, in my 89 Venture, also my 99 Busa, for the last 5 years, no problems. Any Synthetic Oil, is a much better lubricant then petroleum oil. I change oil in spring, and fall, no matter what the milage, in all the vehicals. However if you only run 2 or 3 thousand miles a year, useing the regular oil and changing it once or twice, might be a better option due to cost.
  13. GeorgeS
    Well in the West, Motel 6 is almost always the cheapest. Some of them are New, some updated, and some of them are pretty worn out. !! But as a rule of thumb, they are always the cheapest. But as everything else, even they have raised their base price this year. $49.95 is their single base price up and down the west coast these days. (( OF course, I am not even considering the dumpy motels, and most town's have a few of those )) Yesterday, wife and I and grandson, took the Ferry boat ride from Seattle, to Bremerton Wa. round trip. -- Just for something to do for the afternoon. That cost me $29.95, just for the Ferry boat round trip. Oh well, the grandson enjoyed the ride.
  14. GeorgeS
    Hooking the wire Direct to 12Volts. WILL SMOKE YOUR INDICATOR PANEL !!!! It might take a few miles, or an hour or so, but it will destroy the indicator panel !!! Do the resistor mod
  15. GeorgeS
    Jezzzz--- might as well book a Motel 6, just a few more bucks. No way I would sleep on the ground to save $10 bucks
  16. GeorgeS
    Check the " IGNITION FUSE " holder, pins might be corroded, or loose, or cracked, causeing high resistance contact to the fuse itself. Give the Ignition Switch a bath with WD-40 and Electrical Contact Cleaner, you might have High Resistance across the Main Contacts of the Ignition Switch. Open up the " Run-Stop " Red switch on the right handle bar. If you have High Resistance across the contacts of this switch, this will cause LOWERED VOLTAGE, to the TCI Ignition Unit. Low voltge to the TCI , will cause th unit to " NOT Fire " the plugs properly. ( I know of at least TWO 1st Gens, that quit running due to a faulty , --- Run Stop---- Switch !!! ) This switch, corrodes, turns into a High Resistance, Series Resistor, in series with the voltage to the TCI, thus Lowereing the voltage to the TCI. Result, TCI no work right. Remove the TWO Plugs from the TCI Unit, ( 6 pin, and 8 pin ) and CLEAN the contacts, here, and apply contact cleaner, You have a 5 pin cable running from the " Pickup Coils " going to the 6 pin plug of the TCI unit. About 1/2 way, located just about under you left knee as you sit on the bike , there is a Pull apart plug. Open this plug, and Clean the contacts, Carefully inspect the Male and Female Pins inside this plug, make sure the are makeing good contact. Any high resistance across the pins in this plug, will cause problems with the TCI Unit. You might have to " REMOVE the TCI Unit " ( not easy to to ) Now remove the top cover of the unit. Put the Unit in OVEN, at about 110 deg. F for about an hour to Dry Out the MOISTURE-- That IS PRESENT , inside this unit. ( Yes, it does have moisture inside of it ) --- Then from each of the two plugs, ( 6 pin and 8 pin ) follow the connections going to the Circuit Board. RESOLDER, the connections to the Circuit board. They are notorious for developing cracks, and cold solder joints at the board. This might be your problem. Check the Main 40 amp fuse holder, open the holder, and clean the fuse element, and make sure the two small #1 phillips head screws that hold the element in place are tight. Clean Both Ends, of Both Battery Cables, and consider Resoldering the Studs to the cables. And, of course, charge your battery, consider possibility of an intermittant "internal short in the battery " . Maby replace plugs, and Carefull Inspect all 4 plug wires, ( remove them at caps, and coils, nip off 1/4 inch of wire, and re-install the wires ) ( plug wire is 7MM solid core copper plug wire, avialable at most any auto parts dealer ) Also, consider draining the fuel tank and replaceing ALL of the fuel, you might have water and crud in the tank. Also, find the Drain on Each Carb bowl. Drain them seperatly, and let the fuel pump run fuel thru each bowl drain seperatly. And, of course, add a good dose of " SEA - FOAM " to the tank, maby thats all you need !! Consider this a " Witch Hunt " in no particular order, ( but start with the Run Stop Switch )
  17. GeorgeS
    Whenever I see something like this ahead of me on the road, I slow down, pull to the right, or stop, but in any event I let the suspect loaded vehical dissapear in the distance ahead of me. On two seperate occasions after slowing down, I watched the stuff fly off the pickup truck in the distance ahead of me. Nuff said --- Ride safe my friends
  18. GeorgeS
    Compute the amount of money you would spend for sales tax, on a new bike !! OK, now spend that money on maintenance and upgrades on the bike you now have !!! This is a good way to " tick off " the economists in WA. D.C.
  19. GeorgeS
    I would look at steering head nut, " torque" setting as the root cause of wobble. Then , " greese " the steering head bearings !! Then add a fork brace. Then add progressive suspension springs. Then, check the torque of the rear swing arm bearings. (( And greese these bearings !! )) Then check the torque settings of " ALL " of the Main frame bolts and nuts. If wobble still present, then I would consider changing front tires to try to correct front end wobble. I cured my front end wobble by simple adjusting the steering head torque setting. !! And of course, adding the fork brace and progressive springs, greatly improved the overall general handling of my 89. Money well spent. !!!!
  20. GeorgeS
    Is it leaking ?? the way you installed it . If not, I would just go for a ride !!! I hear its summer----
  21. GeorgeS
    Well the last E3 I mounted ( rear ) I just put in a bottle of " Ride - On " . Few months later I installed a new E3 Front, and another bottle of " Ride - On " Everything seems just fine !!! 10K on that rear tire and only about 1/2 the tread is worn off. Looks like it will go about another 6 to 8K. Runs true, no problems, good traction, wet and dry. Looks like it will run 18 to 20K. Happpy Camper here !!!! By the way, that E3 you removed with the sidewall cut, cross section the old carcus and take a look at the amount of material used to build the caseing.
  22. GeorgeS
    I have been takeing Congroitine/Glucosamine for several years. Seems to help keep Artheritis at bay. But it takes several months to help. Also, a Calcium supplement, such as a product called " Tri salts " avialable at health food stores helps support Bone Structure, and bone growth. If you have a damaged ligement in that joint, its going to take time to heal. Chiropractic takes time, don't expect results in just a few weeks. Sometimes the root cause is somplace in the Spine, which can cause pain in other area's of the body. Give the chiropractic treatments several months to show results. About 12 years ago, I " crawled into the bone crushers Office," it took about 6 months to get me back to about 85 percent. I'm about 95 percent now, and I figure thats about as good as it will get. !! Maby you can convince the wife to massage the elbow several times a day !!, well it might help, -- certainly can't hurt anything, worth a try.
  23. GeorgeS
    I would reccomend finding one to take a ride on. As mentioned above, they are different then most bikes. Take some getting used to. If you find one with under 50K, ( hopefully 20K ) you can figure on about $1200 to $1500 for all the parts to upgrade all the factory defects. Most likley you will need. New Stator,( Aftermarket, upgraded stator ) --- New Barnett Clutch, --- Replace Fuse panel,--- Maby rebuild water pump, --- Replace the cooling system hose's, --- Maby some rear drive work,--- Most likley new set of Carb Diaphrams,--- DEKA, AGM type battery,---- Clean up ALL the Wireing Connectors, ----Clean up all handle bar switches, --- Work on Intake manifold leaks, --- Rebuild the entire Brakeing System, --- New set of Dunlop E3's, --- And whatever body work is required, And don't forget a NEW Seat, the stock seats were pretty bad. Rebuild front Forks, !!! and install Progressive Suspension Springs, and Aftermarket Fork Brace Replace Carb Diaphrams, and maby leaking intake manifold, Replace clamps above and below the carbs. Rebuild the starter. Replace the " Starter Engage Clutch " Replace the Battery Cables ( larger size wire ) Buy a Carb Sync Tool, if you don't have one. Replace all the fuel hoses, and filter, and obtain a spare Fuel Pump. Drain and clean out the fuel tank. Most likley the Exhaust cross over Canister, will need work, or replacement. If you need a project, !! It will be a great bike when your finished, BUT, if you just want to buy a bike and go rideing, best buy something newer. If you decide to go the route, do a lot of looking, find one thats " IN SERVICE", If you find one thats been in storage for 5 years or more, I would pass it bye. ( Unless you really want a project to work on ) Mine is an 89, has 80K on it and still "In Service", running like a Swiss Watch---- BUT-- I did all of the above!! And more. I love the ride, but, I would NOT, buy an " el sicko " 89 and do all the work again.
  24. GeorgeS
    Find the Regulator/Regulator Unit. Remove the Plug, it has the 3 phase ( large wires, 3 of them ) and the DC wire, and Ground . Pull the plug out, and Carefully inspect the Male and Female Pins for any sign of Burn Damage !!! Use a bright light ant magnifiying glass. Several folks have found their Charging Problem on the 2nd Gens at this Point. IF pins are damage, you will have to re-build the Plug. Do these Tests: 1. Get Access to Positive Battery Terminal, or Aux power plug. 2. Useing a Digital Volt/ Ohm Meter ( if you don't have one, beg, borrow or buy one ) Disconnect the battery at POS terminal and read the DC voltage. IF battery is fully charged it should read at least 12.2 Volts. Re connect battery. With Engine running at 2000 RPM or higher measure the DC Charging Voltage, at battery, or the Aux Power jack. ------ You should see, AT LEAST 13.8 TO 14.00 VOLTS DC, if the charging system is working. IF below, 12.8 or so, ( lets say below 13.0 ) most likley the plug at the R/R unit is defective, or the Stator has ONE Phase fried . 3. Check the Fluid level in the battery, make sure its above the plates in all 6 sections !!! 4. CHARGE THE BATTERY AT 2 AMP OR HIGHER RATE, for at least 8 hours, if its now dead. 5. Remove and Clean, Both ends of both battery Cables !!! Consider Re-soldering the Studs, on both ends of both cables. You will most likley find your problem at the PLUG, of the Regulator Unit !!! You might have a bad Stator Unit. To test the Stator, follow the 3, Large, 3 Phase wires from the Stator, going to the R/R UNIT. Useing Digital meter, Measure the AC VOLTAGE ( AC, NOT DC ) going to the R/R Unit. You should see SAME voltage on all 3 wires read against ground. Readings should be about 6 to 12 Volts, and will vary with engine speed. The main point here is that all 3 wires read about the same, + or - 1 volt. IF one Phase is considerable lower in voltage, then the other two, --- THEN YOU NEED A NEW STATOR !!!! ---- The Service manual method of checking Stator, useing Resistance Readings, WILL NOT TELL YOU IF THE STATOR IS GOOD OR BAD !!!!! You have to Read the 3 phase output voltage with the Engine Running!!! ( Trust me, I've been there !!!! )
  25. GeorgeS
    5 wire cable, comeing from the pickup coil under the cover you removed and replaced. follow that cable, untill you come to the dissconnect plug. Carefully check the cableing under the rear cover plate that you removed and replaced, make sure its not been pinched or damaged.
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