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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Would be wise to Charge the battery, Check the---- " No Load Voltage " Put charger on it for several hours, the let sit, and re-check the No Load Voltage. Use a Real Charger, not a trickle charger.
  2. GeorgeS
    I have heard talk of the two antenna's on 2nd gens being switched left to right. Is it possible your antenna's are installed on the wrong side? Sombody here know exactly how to identify which side the antennas should be mounted on. Otherwise, this sounds like you actually have a bad Receiver. If so, Dealer should replace it.
  3. GeorgeS
    100K on an 89, and never replaced the diaphrams ( were tamper proof screws still there?? ) We all knew you needed new diaphrams !!! All 1st Gens need NEW Diaphrams !!
  4. GeorgeS
    For what its worth, Its NOT, Raining in Seattle this week !!! Been sitting in the Sun all day today, and went rideing for the last three days!! I even had to water the grass today-- I almost forgot how to do that -- its been a long time since I had to do that job.
  5. GeorgeS
    If you get that far " West " you might as well include Washington and Oregon !!! The Sun finally came out---
  6. GeorgeS
    Just get a big can of greese !!! Greese everything !!!
  7. GeorgeS
    As above-- Any auto parts store, get some disk brake adhisive, its cheap, simply pull out the pads and apply the stuff. I have had the same problem, the stuff works, problem solved.
  8. GeorgeS
    Question: When you had the TCI removed, did you put it in an oven, at about 110 deg. F , to dry out the Moisture??? The TCI's all have moisture inside them !! Its best to do this proceedure while the wife is not home, most women do not approve of motorcycle parts in their ovens !!!
  9. GeorgeS
    OK, well, I have Ride On installed in both tires. I also carry the Plugging kit, and an electric pump, and an extra bottle of " ride on " And a set of battery cables -- ( which I have used for other stalled bikes, 3 times in the last 5 years ) In the last 90,000 miles of rideing I have never had a flat. ( I know, I shoud not have said that, now I'm in for it) You can call me paronoid if you like, but thats OK, have a beer, and lets go ride !!
  10. GeorgeS
    Mum's the word !!! time for a beer,
  11. GeorgeS
    I have not seen this point discussed for some time. Good point for new owner's to hear about this. ie: After re-installing the rear wheel, loosen the 4 nuts on the pumpkin, and the Axel nut, then Tap Tap Tap on every thing with a rubber mallet, to relieve any " STRESS " built up in the assembly, then re-torque everything in about 4 steps. ( after everything has been cleaned and greesed, of course )
  12. GeorgeS
    Maby I'm wrong on this, its been awhile since I discussed this, and removed and re-installed my jets. Working from memory here, and I recently turned 67, so ----- ??? , the gray matter might be getting a little fuzzy !!! I think its 1 1/4 for the 1200 motors, and 1 1/8 for the 1300, but I might have that basssAckwords !! --- Sombody else I'm sure will chime in on this point. Usually after you do a Re-Sync ( with good diaphrams installed of course ) you can get a small improvement by doing a little retuneing of the Idle jets. However usually + or - 1/8 turn will do the trick. And any improvement will be very subjective Check with V-Goose for confirmation this point. The other point is to make sure you have about 1/16 to 1/8 inch of free play in the throttle " Pull Cable " at the master carb ( L , Fwd ) before the mechanical linkage starts to move.
  13. GeorgeS
    My brother in law had a set of these from an older model torn apart. ( a late 70's model as I recall ) I recall looking at the piece's laying on his work bench. As I recall it was a pretty simple set of forks to take apart. I remember thinking, well thats a lot eaiser then doing a set of 1st Gen forks. However, we did have to replace the Fork Bearing Race's. Be sure to carefully inspect the fork yoke bearings when you get it all torn apart.
  14. GeorgeS
    Well, this is a much simpler subject to discuss then " Tires " , so keep this thread going ---------
  15. GeorgeS
    You might need to bleed the Hydralic Clutch system. Replace the fluid with Synthectic Brake fluid. Bleed the system same way as you would bleed hydralic brakes. Open the Resovoiur, and Clean out any dirt, make sure the Two small holes in bottom of Resovoiur are Clear. The larger hole is easy to see, the second one is so small its almost Invisable, but it must be clear. See the Maintenance Manuel on this web site, for further information. Go to the Mainetnance section, and you will find the entire Maintenance Manual, if you do not have one. Print out what you need from there.
  16. GeorgeS
    Observe, the Diaphram Covers on each Carb. One, of the 4 , #2 Phillips head Screws that hold the covers in place is a " Tamper Proof " Screw !! IF--- Its still in place--- ( check this ) then, The Diaphrams in your bike have Never been Replaced !! Most likley at his point, you are going to have to Replace the 4 Diaphrams, and do a Re-Sync of the Carbs, ( you will need the Carb Sync Tool ) about $100 bucks. About $65 each for the new set of 4 diaphrams. Sorry-- but money well spent. Also, when you pull the Diaphrams covers, Check at bottom of cover, for the Lead Seal, ( factory installed ) that covers and seals the " Idle Mixture Adjust needle jets " Strongly reccomended, that you Remove the Seal, and Remove the needle jets, and Reset them to 1 and 1/8 turn CCW from the Full Closed position-- This is the agreed upon correct setting. This Information IS NOT, in the Maintenance manual. Before, trying to remove the Jets, Apply Liquid wrench, several times over a 24 hour period, give the stuff time to work thru the " VERY FINE THREADS " of the needle jets. Slowly remove them, very carfull, not to damage the threads !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IF you destroy the threads, your CARB BODY, is now JUNK !!!! OK, Reset the jets, Install New Diaphrams, and then RE-Sync the Carbs. The Proceedure is spelled out in the Maintenance Manual.
  17. GeorgeS
    Carefully inspect the CC cutout switch on the clutch lever. You will see that the Switch mounts " Loosely " there. What I did, was make a small bracket to hold the switch tightly " in place " and my slowing down problem on my 89 went away. Also carefull inspect your throttle " Pul Cable " at the left Fwd Carb. If any sign of cable fraying, order a new set of cables. If you do do remove the upper left fairing to work on the " Trottle Cable joint " ( see maint manuel ) or other items to repair the CC problem, good time to Replace All the Throttle cables. If you bike is over 50K, then a new set of cables is a good idea. You CANNOT replace the cables without removeing the Upper Fairing. Not a nice job to do out on the road.
  18. GeorgeS
    If so: pull up the maint manual, its on line this web site. Go to the maintenance section. Scroll down the left side of home page.
  19. GeorgeS
    It cuts voltage to the TCI Unit, And also voltage to the Fuel Pump, and fuel pump relay. I checked the schematic one day, and as I recall Voltage for about 6 or 7 items comes thru this switch. Sombody did some RE-Wireing on your bike. If you don't have a schematic, go to the maintenance section in this web site. You can download the entire Maint Manual, or just print out the wireing diagram.
  20. GeorgeS
    Yes: the Indicator unit have had problems with cold solder joints. You have to pull the windshield, and remove the Instrument panel to get the indicator unit removed. Are you sure its not the indicator for the tail light?? If you install LED bulbs in the Tail light, you will get warning lignts. As the LED's do not draw enough current. Try installing one of the Sylvania higher light output bulbs in the headlight. That might solve the problem.
  21. GeorgeS
    I just checked the " New " E3 I have sitting on the work bench. Mfg Date is " 1210" It Does Have, the Shinny part shown on your photo of 9:35 this morning. !!! On both sides. I then looked at the E3 mounted on my 89, with 11K on it. It does NOT, have the shinny area, on either side, for what thats worth. This tire mfg date is about 2 years ago. ---------------- Have you checked the brake " PADS" to see it they are tight against the Pistons ?? If they are LOOSE, you might try useing some Disk Brake Adhissive. Its possible the Pads are vibrateing. However I would assume in that case it would be a higher pitched noise. I have found that I get Crazy Noises from my front Calipers, if I Forget to use the adhessive when changing the Pads !! I suggest you install a NEW set of pads, and use the adhissive, you can get it at any auto parts store . At 10K yours are probably 1/2 worn out in any case. Money well spent. ---------------------- Also, Greaseing the Drive Shaft at 10K, is a good thing to do!!! Yamaha is very stingy with Greese !!
  22. GeorgeS
    Just spend the money on a Carb Tune tool, and a new set of diaphrams to keep on hand, if you need them.
  23. GeorgeS
    Sounds like you need to Sync the Carbs. Get the " Carb Tune Tool ". Money well spent. !!!! Also, check your throttle Pull Cable, at the Left Fwd, Carb. Check to see if there is any free play, when moveing the throttle , before the Linkage starts to move. Should be at least 1/16th to 1/8 inch of freeplay movement. Also, Lubricate the throttle mechanical linkage parts. Just in case something is sticking mechanically. Most likley you just need a Sync job. I would do that first, and go from there.
  24. GeorgeS
    Another trick is t put in a can of SEA-FOAM, with about 1/2 tank of gas. Now go for a hard ride, stay in 3rd gear. and keep the rpms up to about 4 t 5,000 RPM. ( And some HEET in the gas ) A good hard run, with Sea Foam might clear it up. But be sure to Drain the carb bowls. Open each drain one at a time, and let the fuel pump run a substantial amount of gas thru each of the drain hose's. One at a time. Doing this, you might isolate a stuck float valve, or dirty carb bowl. --- ( Outside of course, and keep the water hose handy !! ) ----
  25. GeorgeS
    Sounds like One Cylinder is dead. With Cold Engine, do the hot pipe hand feel test. Start Engine cold, run for about 30 seconds, feel all 4 header pipes, find the one thats cold. Now you know which cylinder is not fireing. I would do a Carb Bowl Drain, on all 4 carbs. Might be a stuck float valve. And also, you know the Coils on these bikes are known to fail. ( 2nd gen, not first gen ) I would pull the plugs from the TCI, and Clean the Contacts-- Might be the problem. Check the mechanical Carb Linkage, make sure nothing is hanging up. I would Drain the Tank, and start with ALL new Fuel, and throw in a 1/2 can of SEA-FOAM, Might be some water in the Tank. ( Try some " HEET" First, before Draining the Tank )
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