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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    E3's , front and rear ---
  2. GeorgeS
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but a Sportster only has about a 45 HP engine. Not exactly something to be fearfull of.
  3. GeorgeS
    IF--- you have never ridden one, then its pointless to try to explain it to you. I have one-- Every couple of weeks I take it out for a 50 mile run, look at it this way. Its sort of like haveing a sip of the best Kentucky sippin whisky, now and then !! Zero to 60 in 2.6 seconds, has a profound effect on your soul !!! Even if your over 65 years old.
  4. GeorgeS
    I think this plug might be for some junk that the Calif. bikes had installed.
  5. GeorgeS
    As a general rule of thumb, its best not to mess with these carbs. ( other then normal maintenance ) Just be sure your linkage assembly is Sync'd properly ( See maint manuel, on line this site, if you don't have one ) Some have made minor adjustments by shimming the needle valves on the Carb Pistons. But as I understand it this is manily to improve fuel economey. But if you are getting about 40 MPG + or - thats about normal. If your in the low 30 MPG range, then you might start looking for some problems. However if near 40MPG, and your plug readings look good, and performance is normal I would leave the carbs alone. You might check the settings of the " Idle Mixture Adjustment Jets " if you have not yet done so. ( Also the condx of your rubber diaphrams, check for damaged rubber )
  6. GeorgeS
    Usually I just turn my head and look at them, usually they back off. Or on freeway, I just change lanes, and move out. If not, I change lanes, or take the right shoulder, or if nothing else is avialable I take the next right turn. I have had them follow me, on the lane changes. I reccomend doing these manouvers as though nothing is wrong, don't tick them off. If you think a situation is developing, then do another quick lane change, and back off. Get behind them The main thing here is to do something!! Also another thing here to consider is when you are driveing your car, and you have a MC tailgateing you !!! Yes it does happen. If you are forced to slam on your car brakes, that idiot is going to be in your back seat !!! And most likley dead !! Believe it or not, I have seen two M/C cops rideing side by side, Tailgateing a truck !!! then moveing to behind a car, and staying there for miles. Once in extremely, heavy traffic, on a 4 lane, I was being tailgated, I had to hit brakes due to a truck crossing the meridian. The guy behind me thought I was messing with him, and it got ugly. Frankly I was running for my life. I managed to get in front of a truck, then take the shoulder, then slow down and get behind the guy. I could see him going balistic. I took a right turn, and Headed South !! on back roads. It was a learning experience !!!
  7. GeorgeS
    I simply used a Double Pole Double throw switch. I mounted it on Inst. Panel. Tap into the Low beam socket about 6 inches from socket, run to center of on side of switch. thru switch, then back to socket. On second side of switch, feed voltage from new circuit ( use a new In-line fuse ) to center of switch, then run opposit side of switch to the low beam socket. Now when you throw the switch the Main circuit is disconnected, and the new circuit feeds the low beam. This new supply, completly bypass's the Inst panel, and Reserve Lighting Unit. Of Course, use western Union splices, and heat shrink insullation on all the places you spliced into the stock cable. Be sure to Solder all splices, and solder wires to your new switch. Is this all " Paronoid, OverKill " ?? Yes--
  8. GeorgeS
    Its just the Envrio Wacko's playing with the numbers !!! Get out your electric vest !
  9. GeorgeS
    Be sure to take a volt meter with you, and check the level of the DC Charging Voltage at the Battery terminal, engine running about 2000 RPM. Be sure its over 13.8 Volts !!! If not, there is a problem with the charging system. Check for loose Steering Head Nut, and be sure on test drive to check for " Head Shake " on level straignt road about at 50, 60, 70, and 80 MPH. Ask the man if he ever pulled out the drive shaft and greesed the splines. Ask the man if he ever Replaced all of the Brake and Clutch Fluid. Inspect the Rear Shock, for " Oil Leakage " If Bike out of warrenty, that item is pretty expensive. I think the only fix is a new shock assembly. If the Tires are Worn Down close to replacement time, I would suggest you forget it. A man who rides on worn down tires, probabley does not do much maintenance to his bikes. !!! Check for Oil leaks around the Shift Lever, and under the Left side Case cover. Inspect the Front Fork Seals, for Oil Leakage, If leaking, Forget it, unless the guy will knock off the price of dealer Replacement of Fork seals. Inspect all 3 sets of brake pads for wear !!!!! Take a strong flash light with you. !!
  10. GeorgeS
    Just change the Rear Lube, every time you replace the Rear Tire --- I'm sure the the maker of the universe will be proud of you! And, 1/2 qt. or so of oil, whats the big deal? Engine oil? Use Synthetic, most any brand, change in the spring and fall, if you run about 10K a year.
  11. GeorgeS
    A dealer in Monroe Wa. has a left over 08 listed for $9,999.00 ( new )
  12. GeorgeS
    Vote in Nov!!!!!
  13. GeorgeS
    Since you did the carb sync, have you removed and re-installed the carbs. If so, you should re-do the sync. Quesiton: ?? Do you have any slack in the Throttle Pull cable on the left front carb ?? You should have 1/16 to 1/8 in. of slack in the cable after the Sync Job, is completed. Back out the master idle screw to the just contacting position. Then do the same with the Sync Screw on left side. ( set to Just Makeing contact) Now on the Right, back out both and re-set to Just makeing contact. Then re-check the Pull Cable, Slack, makes sure its still there. ----- Then, hook up your Sync Vaccume Gauges, and Redo the Sync process. And as above, try a new set of plugs !!
  14. GeorgeS
    Nobody on this site buys bridgestone tires, we all take them off and replace them. However haveing said that, I do use them on my Busa, but thats an entirely different application and type of bike and type of tire. They do make good tires for " sport bikes "
  15. GeorgeS
    This highway is basicly the Local Service road, in addition to being a heavly traveled tourist highway. It is a 2 lane highway almost the entire distance from the border all the way to San Franscisco. Its a great M/C ride, but be carefull, and as others have said here, be ready for anything. Also expect a lot of local Truck traffic It is a well maintained road, however expect sections of tight winding curves along the coast in many places. Also expect to hit unexpected wet spots around blind corners, due to coastal weather conditions. Also, its a slow road, expect to only average about 40 miles per hour of driveing time. In places you will cover more distance, and in some cases less. If you want to do sight seeing, and etc etc. I would allow twice as many days of travel time as compared to makeing the trip on I-5. Be sure to take your electric vests if you have them !!! And Heavy gloves for early morning hours.
  16. GeorgeS
    This is why I always carry a Spare TCI, with me on trips !!! I have a spare mounted on the bike, and can just swap the plugs, if needed on long trips.
  17. GeorgeS
    Lots of rides like this, all over the West Coast ( Left Coast, if you like ) Wa. Oregon, Calif, Idaho, Nev. Montana, Colorado, NM, AZ, --- Take your pick, com'on out west folks, enjoy the ridessssss, lots of them. I live 15 miles SE of Seattle, and have about 3 of the " Dragons " within 10 miles of the house !! Also, in Oregon, the " coastal range " and the " Cascade Range " Any of the routes that run E and W over these two Mt. ranges is a " heck of a ride " ( as they would say in Minn. and Wis ) Same thing in Northern Calif. If you prefer the " supper slab " try I-90 E and W across Idaho, yes its a freeway, but its another, " heck of a ride " ( sorry I grew up in Minn. )
  18. GeorgeS
    Yes: not much you can do with the thing, thats exactly why I worked up the " by-pass" circuit. I would suggest just finding a spare, and carry it with you, OR, wire up a by-pass circuit if you are really worried about failure of the headlight , out on a trip.
  19. GeorgeS
    Back in the 80's I ran 2 of them on my old 79 BMW, R-1000. Good service from them and no trouble. I ran one Conti on my 89 Venture aroud 1998, as I recall. No trouble, good service, and as I recall it lasted about 14,000 miles. The BMW crowd, are big on the Continental tires. However, I'm sticking with the E3's on my 89 from now on.
  20. GeorgeS
    In the event the one you have fails. Not good, on the road !!! You can also work up a by-pass circuit. Use a Double pole switch, to power the " low beam " from a seperate " new " fused circuit. The second side of switch would cut off the stock circuit voltage supply. SO: Throw the new switch, stock voltage to bulb is cut off, and new supply to bulb is turned on. I have done this on my 89. So if Stock wireing, or Reserve light unit fails, I just throw the switch, and my low beam is powered by a completly seperate circuit. ( of course the warning light will now flash ) but at least I have a head light. I also have the right side " rear tail light bulb " powered by a completly seperate circuit, and fuse. Add an in-line fuse, and new wire back to just the right side bulb. Now you have at least one tail light if the " signal " fuse circuit fails.
  21. GeorgeS
    I always re-set the trip meter when filling up-- at 130 Miles, I always stop at the next gas station. So far I have never ran out of gas.
  22. GeorgeS
    Well my 89 has always whined on deceleration, noticiable at lower speeds. Its the same now,as when bike was new, ( 81K ) However best to remove pumpkin, and drive shaft, give it all a good greese job. On re-assemble, re-torque the 4 nuts holding pumpkin to drive shaft houseing and the Axel nut in steps. Tap Tap on everything to relieve STRESS, as your re-torque all the nuts. I never worried about the whine, just seems to be what the beast does.
  23. GeorgeS
    was reading back thru all the posts here, did you pull the electrical plug off the " pressure sensor " to check for corrosion there ?? Maby I missed it-- ??
  24. GeorgeS
    Cable from pick up coils, to the TCI. there is and in line pull apart plug. This plug has caused a lot of ignition problems over the years. Check the Plug at the TCI ( see wireing diagram ) make sure you have supply voltage to the TCI. Be sure to check the Plug between the Alternator and the Regulator unit. For burnt pins. Also, do a Resistance check across the Ignition Switch ON-OFF Contacts. Pull the Electrical connector of of the " Pressure Sensor ", make sure no water, or crud, or moss, or any such thing is growing inside the Rubber Boot, that covers the Electrical plug. IF, so--- This can short out or drag down the voltage supply to the TCI. Its hooked in parrallel with the TCI, off the Same Fuse--- ( Ignition Fuse ) Just for the heck of it, Open each Drain on each carb bowl, with key ON, make sure the fuel pump runs and pumps fuel thru each bowl with the drain open. Open up the Main 40AMP fuse, make sure the screws holding the fuse element are in place and tight Witch Hunts-- in no particular order. Also, if bike was sitting that long. I would Go over EVERY Electical connector with a good electrical contact cleaner, and apply dialectric greese to ALL of the Pins, in ALL of the plugs.
  25. GeorgeS
    Well, the good news is that very soon Global Warming will kick in, and flooding like this will never happen again. Wisconsin will turn into a desert, no more chance of flooding. Its even stopped raining here in Seattle !!! for a whole week, the native Seattlites!! are starting to Panic !!!! Forcast is for almost 85Deg F , over the weekend, and AirConditioner Sales are thu the roof !!!!! I even had to water the grass this week !!!
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