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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. Be very carefull, parking, and in driveways. !!! When backing out of a space, keep the sidestand down, just in case !! If you pick a parking space which is " downhill " be sure to back in , so you can drive away when leaveing. Basicly, low speed handling is " tricky " practice !! until you get used to it.
  2. At this point, from what you have said, I would Remove the Battery again. Charge it " Out of the Bike " Then let it sit, for about 3 days, and Use the " Good " Digital Voltmeter, you bought and check the voltage every day for several days. If the voltage is dropping, with bat sitting on bench, then its Bad !!! Irregardless of the date of its birthday. !! --------------------- I'm suspecting a Bad connection somplace on your bike. Find your, ----- Starter Solinoid, ----- Pull it out, and Replace it !!! You Might, have a bad connection INSIDE, the Starter motor, If sombody OverTorques, the 10MM Nut on the battery cable STUD, of these Starters, you can --- EAISLY --- !!!!! Twist OFF the Stud Inside the Starter motor, Has anybody, removed, and re- Installed the Red Batt Cable on your starter latley ??? This is way out in left field, but is a possibility. ---------------------------- Have you pulled the END of the Black Cable, at the Engine case, near the water pump, and Cleaned up the threads on that Bolt ????? When you do this, RE-Solder, the Stud on the end of that cable. ---------------------- Check your RED, Run-Stop Switch -- On the right handle bar. IF---this switch goes " High Resistance " you will have a Voltage DROP, to the TCI Unit, the Fuel Pump, and All the Ignition Coils !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Obviously the Engine would not start. Do a Resistance check Across the Run Stop Switch, this is admittly another , way out in left field, possibility, but worth checking. ---------------------- do a resistance check " Across Your Ignition Switch" On- Off contacts, another left field item, but worth checking. -------------------
  3. 08 TrailBlazer, with In line 6 cylinder. Freeway cruzeing, it gets 20.5 to 21.5 mpg, but in " just around town driveing " it never tops 16 to 18 mpg. But its a big square " box " Something to be said here for the aerodynamic, shape of the Jag !! My 03 Blazer is about the same, 15 around town, and about 19 to 20 freeway cruzing. ( another square box ) ( V 6 engine ) Oh another comment concerning british cars. My brother in law builds high performance engines, and also re-builds whatever type of engine that gets delivered to his engine overhaul shop down in LA. When I'm there I like to watch the process of all the different re-builds, in progress, Was there couple months ago, and he had " Rolls Royce about 1998 V8 " engine torn down to be Re-built. So I'm looking at all the parts, first time I had ever seen a RR engine torn down. I ask Jim, " hey Jim, whats your opinion of RR engines, as to Quality? " Jim says, --- " They are Junk !! " --- Now I will have to admit, I was surprised, but he seemed satisfied with his opinion. ( he walked away, as if there was absolutly no need for any further comment ) Hmmmm I'm standing there, thinking, I just heard a master engine re-builder, say that this RR engine is a piece of junk ????? Well, guess its time to go have a cup of coffee. ????
  4. Everytime I see one of these, I'm remembering my 79 R-100 BMW, good old 60 HP, 485lb. motorcycle. I still see a few of them around here in the Seattle area, on the roads in my area. The 1000 CC Bmw engine makes about 60 HP in stock config. But there are upgrades avialable, you can bump the engines up to about 80 HP without to much trouble. On a 485 lb dry wgt. bike, 80 HP is fairly impressive !! As I recall, San Jose, BMW, had upgrades, better heads, better ignition systems, and there was even a " Bolt On " Fuel Injection system avialable around 20 years ago. ( not sure if its still avialable ) There are also high performance Clutch's avialable for them. I have been thinking about looking for a 77 to 81, R-100, and starting a project bike !! Well maby, Retirement is getting boreing, I need a project to work on !! Hmmmmm ?????? something to think about. Very EASY, bikes to work on !!!
  5. Remove the Red, and black cables at the Starter, and at the enging crankcase at the main grounding point. Clean the bolts, and threads, Check the studs on ends of cables for Corrosion . Use a Torch, and Resolder the the Studs on the Ends of the cables, Good idea to resolder the studs, on the battery ends also. Pull the Plug out of your Rectifyer/Regulator unit, and Inspect the Pins in the plug. Clean the Pins with Electrical contact cleaner. (( you , might, have a bad Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, but I suspect battery first )) Get a good Digital Volt / Ohm Meter, ( spend about $50 bucks for one ) Charge the battery, then disconnect it, let it sit over night and re chech the voltage next day. If your bat is a lead acid it should hold 12.2 to 12.4 volts. if its dropping below that then its bad no matter how old it is. If its an AGM Dry Cell, after charging it should hold 12.7 to 12.9 volts. Ok reconnect everything, and with ignition OFF recheck the voltage across battery and see if any appriciable amount of voltage drop, if so this would indicate something is drawing current with switch OFF. Charge the battery , Disconnected from bike, if lead acid, about 10 hours at 2 amp rate. If you bat is an AGM Dry cel, charge at High Rate, about 6 amps for 4 to 5 hours, let sit over night, then check voltage with your ( New Volt Ohm Meter ) Ok hook up everything, run engine, Read voltage across the battery, should read, at least 13.8 to 14.2 volts DC at about 2000 RPM. Find the Large White Plug, with 3 #10 wires going thru it, open the plug, and Inspect the Pins for Burnt, or Damaged Pins. If the Plug is bad, the cut out the plug, and Splice, and Solder the wires together, and apply at least 2 layers of Shrink Tubeing, insulation. over the new splices. Post your findings, and sombody will be able to help. ((( We need a few clues, and more exact Meter Voltage Readings. ))) If you are Mechanically challanged !!! then find sombody to do all this stuff for you. (or electrically challenged ) If you need, more help, get the meter, then PM me, I will be glad to talk you thru the process. Its actually quite easy to determing where the trouble is.
  6. How far to ride on a given day ?? It boils down to, did you get a good nights sleep ? do you have all the gear you need ? Is your bike up to the task ? Do you have a good set of tires? Are you prepared for whatever weather you might encounter? And another point, which is hard to pin down is that little voice, in the back of your mind, that seems to tell you to keep going, after 500 miles, OR, its time to hang it up for the day. Just because you went 500 miles yesterday, don't mean that its a good thing to do today!! Some days, the ride goes good, other days, things happen and its best to hang it up !! I have a rule, if Three Things happen , on the road that are " Not Good " I hit the first Motel 6 I see !!! Like what ?? Well there was the Truck Tire Caseing that flew Over the Top of the car that was right next to me on I-5 comeing thru Eugene Oregon about 2 years ago. That would be a good example of " Things that happen " on the road. I know, we all have about 50 of these stories, but I'm sure we all get the point. Seems to me, that the point of this thread, is simply, Use your head !!! Make good decisions, sometimes a T-Bone Steak and a good nights sleep, is far more important then another 200 Miles !!! Ride Safe, my friends !! :whistling:
  7. But sometimes, you will get better results, with resistor wire, and Non Resistor Plugs. ( which are avialable ) Ignition noise on radio's is always a hit or miss problem in trying to eliminate. On some vehicals its fairly easy, to eliminate, on others it can be almost impossible. At this point I've got about 85 percent of it eliminated, so getting close.
  8. The, Stock plugs, are allready Resistor plugs. and the Caps are allready Resistor Caps. Stock wires on Ventures however, are NOT, Resistor wire, they are solid core copper plug wires. Thats why I'm considering changing the Wires to Shielded, Resistor Type Wires . There is Avialable, Shielded, Resistor Core Plug wires, for High performance engines. The only problem, is determining if I can change the wires on the 2nd gen coils. thats why I'm asking if sombody has a junk coil, and can remove the wire, to see exactly how its mounted, I don't want to destroy one of my good coils to see if it can be done, at this time.
  9. OK, I have to ask, what years were you flight engineer with VP-19 ?? Did you fly out of Adak ??????
  10. Yes, a filter in the 12 V dc supply to the radio helps a lot. I allready have one installed. It helped considerably. I even added, 4 12 Voltage Regulator Chips, onto the Filter Unit. ( right at the input 12V to the Radio ) However, static is, being radiated from the spark plugs, gets into the radio thru the antenna. Its comeing into the radio, on the received signal. I wrapped the plug caps, and most of the Ignition wires with tin foil tape, and that helped considerably. My Improved Antenna, also helped considerably. I have eliminated about 85 percent of the noise allready, but still have some. This is why I think maby Shielded, commercial, resistence, plug wires might also help. My Icom IC-7000 Ham radio has built in Noise Filtering, and almost completly eliminates the noise, when useing that radio. But I use only Single Side Band ( SSB ) with that radio. Noise less of a problem with that mode of operation. But, AM mode, for AM broadcast band, is very prone to Ignition noise, much harder to cure. At this point, it sounds like just One spark plug is causeing most of it. Best way to get rid of Ignition noise, is to eliminate it at its source. Will get it figured out, one way or the other, sooner or later, as they say. !! :(
  11. A Video, http://player.vimeo.com/video/48642618 Not M/C related, but for those involved in fire fighting, and aircraft, and machines of all types, this video is worth watching. Not to many uses, for Sea Planes in this day in age, but -- in this case, the Sea Plane, is still in the running. This subject , has a special place in my life, as I was Crew Member on the Last of the large U.S. Navy Seaplanes. Went out of service back in 1964, ( there abouts ) The P5-M Martin, Marlin. The last one still in existence is at the Pensacola N.A.S aircraft museum. ( I actually made one operational flight in that, particular, aircraft, as a crewmember ) from N.A.S North Island. At the time the aircraft was assigned to Squadren, VP-48.
  12. Most of us have done this at least " Once " !!! :no-no-no: Don't feel to bad :whistling: But !!! Its not as bad, as the " Gotcha " involved with re-installing the shift lever linkage, under, the rear left side case cover. :rotf:
  13. Just a comment on the new Jensen model JHD910 AM/FM Radio I purchased a few weeks back, and installed in a tank back for use on the new 08 RSTD. This is a very good quality radio, and I am very impressed with its performance. If anybody needs this type of radio for installation in, a boat, truck, RV , heavy equipment, etc. etc. I highly reccomend it. Yes its expensive !! but seems to be well worth the price. ( and its small ) and easy to mount, for wherever needed. ( price, about $200.00 ) :cool10:
  14. Seattle !!!! 80 days and 80 nights, """ AND NO RAIN """ in Seattle !!!!!!! ( well it drizzled one night, about 1/10th of 1/10th of an inch ) Maby this is a " Sign " from " On High " !!! something, is, ( or must be ) going to happen !!!!! Hmmmmm ??? what could it be ???? :whistling: Added, comment: --- As a result of this situation, I have been forced to " go rideing " Every Day !!!!!!
  15. Ok, we all know that on 1st Gen coils, you can eaisly remove the plug wire from the coil, and the spark plug cap. On the 2nd gen coils. the plug wire appears to " NOT " be removable, ( or replaceable ) from the coil end, of the plug wire. SO-- I was looking at my right front Ignition Coil on my 08, yesterday, and where the plug wire go's into the Coil, it appears as if there is a " Sealant " applied around the wire where it mounts into the coil. What I am getting at here, is I would like to replace the Plug Wires, with some type of " Shielded Spark Plug Wires " . Anyway, so I am wondering if maby I Could remove , and replace the wires from these coils. Does anybody, have a Used ( ie: removed and replaced coil ) laying around in their garage. If So, any chance I could get you to take the old coil, and pull " out " the plug wire, and take some close Ups, of what the hole looks like, and what is inside the hole after you pull out ( ie: remove ) the old plug wire. I hope this all makes some sence, any way thanks to anybody who might be able to accomplish this, I'm working on " Reduceing " Ignition Noise on the AM radio I have installed on my RSTD. And installing Shielded Plug wires might be of some help. ---------------------------------- Next Qustion : ??? Just curious, has anybody, Installed the 1st Gen Ignition Coils, on a 2nd Gen Bike ???? this would obviously solve the plug wire problem, if the coils will work on the 2nd gen bike . I make this point, because it very easy to replace wires on the 1st gen coils, and lots of them avialable, I allready have two of them, and would only have to find 2 more to do the job, if this is possible. ?? --------------------
  16. Just a check, have you pulled the Connector out of the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, and checked for Corrsion in the pins. ALSO: when you have this plug removed, After Cleaning the pins, then use an OHM / Meter ( A good one !!!!! ) And Check Resistance from Each PIN to the other side of the plug, where the Wire is Crimped onto that pin. -THESE PLUGS ( ie: Connectors ) ARE KNOWN TO GO BAD, DUE TO WATER GETTING INTO THEM !!!! I remember at least two people who have had to replace or re-build these electrical connectors, !!! Its not a very fun job. It May, LOOK!!! OK, but until you check it with an Ohm Meter, you cannot really be sure.
  17. So why does anybody continue to purchace these tires ?? Dunlop E-3, !! Problem solved, expect 15 to 20K on the rears, and maby more on the front.
  18. Best to order the OEM fuel lines, all of them !! makes the job a lot eaiser, trust me , I been there.
  19. Deffinatly get the E-3 !! I'm pretty sure any of the 2's left over been on the self a long time !!! Also, that price is on the high side.
  20. Well, Update, about 8 days of rideing now ( I think ? ) and it still feels good !!! :cool10: (( Last couple of weeks of sunshine in Seattle, so makeing the most of it , they are talking rain again, but so far sun is still shinning !!! Hard to Believe , after all , this is Seattle :confused: )) A comment, is that this seat has the feeling that your sort of sitting " in it " instead of " on it " as the OEM seat. Not sure if that makes any sence ?? Anyway, I'm happy, but will probably order a Russell later this winter dureing the off season. (( Remember, anybody who wants to order a Russell, word is they are backed up about 2 months for delivery time. )) If that works out, then the Ultimate will probably be for sale next spring.
  21. Did you liberally !!! Greese all the gear surfaces on the wheel, and drive unit ?? Did you pull out the drive shaft, and greese the splines on the drive shaft ?? I'm assumeing you did. Also this is interesting, as I had never really checked my rear drive for being hot after a ride, I'm going on the road in about 30 min. and will check it when I get back. Interesting
  22. Progressive Springs, New Oil, ( the correct amount ) about 1 1/2 oz. less then OEM with the progressive springs. Do the anti dive voltage check. Also, pull off the Anti dive units, and clean the parts, just in case the oil flow thru the anti dive valves, might be plugged. You might have to replace the O-Rings on the two anti dive units. After work all done, you should be able to run with No Air Pressure in the forks.
  23. Dunlop, E-3 series tires, front and rear !!
  24. On my new 08 RSTD, 3 weeks ago, I pulled both the " almost still new "--- Brick Stones,----- and installed E-3's . 130 on front. I would not even consider re-installing the wider tire on front after about 2000 miles on the new tires. !! For what its worth, thats my 2 cents worth. !! I put on a new " Ultimate Seat " also !!! :fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo
  25. Get the Pump, at most any harley dealer. Cost, $48.00 ( there abouts ) Don't use the Air Hose at the gas station !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :no-no-no:
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