GeorgeS

1 st gens, linkage to carbs has more slop then 2 nd gens. I did my 89 at least every 5K. On new 08, linkage much higher quality parts! But do yours at least once a year

Find the main fuse, check that, if the Bat connections are OK.

Brother in law, has Three of them. Once a year or so, I down in LA, and get to take a drive on them for an afternoon. Have been doing this for several years, So far, I'm not even considering buying one !! They are OK, but, just too many problems!! To much noise, to much vibration, weak brakes, not enough power, But: They sure are pretty !!!!

IF, when battery fully charged, its showing 14.2 to 14.4 OK, When the Regulator, sence's that the battery needs to start charging, then there should be a voltage drop. ( At least some amount ) . No two systems, are going to Read Exactly the same voltages. ( when R/R kicks in, its adding a load, and there will be some amount of voltage drop in the system ) So, if, your battery is staying charged, for starting, and you are useing driveing lights ( fairly large extra load on the system ) then I really don't think you have a problem. As long as it stays above 13.0 volts, the system is charging !! If it drops " Below " the Static battery voltage ( with NO Load ) then I would start to worry. From everything you have said, my opinion ( if anybody is interested ) is that you do not have a problem. At worst, I think your Stator " might " be getting a bit on the weak side. There " Might " be a loose or high resistance connection in the stator, Under the Stator Cover . ( but that is just pure speculation ) If you are useing Driveing lights, I would disconnect them ( pull the fuse ) and operate the bike normaly for a week or so, and monitor the Volt meter you have installed. See what happens. Frankly, I don't think you have a problem. But if I was to work further on your bike, I would suspect the splices, in the Three Phase wireing from the stator to the R/R Unit. Also, I would suspect the wires themselvs from the Stator to the R/R, possible the wires have been Damage, Internally, and you cannot see the damage to the wire strands, under the Insulation ( outer wire cover ) (( Trust me I have fixed many Aircraft wireing problems that came down to this, ie: cracked copper under the outer insulation )) Long story short, If your starter is cranking, normally, I don't think you have a problem. OR, as you said, Maby, the R/R unit is Getting Cranky !!! Only thing to do is replace it.

Bought my new 08 , RSTD, last summer, and also removed the pass seat, and wanted a rear fender rack. I went to local, dealer, and found that the original Yamaha RSTD rack had been " discontinued" as a factory optional accessory. However: the parts guy at the counter, checked his computer, for stock and found that 3 dealers around the country still had one in stock. He ordered me one, from a dealer in Reno, that still had one left on the shelf. It was shipped to me, UPS, quickly. Anyway, there " Might " still be a couple of them in stock somplace, around the country, check with a Yamaha dealer Stock guy, he might be able to find you one if you are still looking.

Thanks for the Kawa Information, will check that out. So far, not finding much. Those Harley ones Might do the job. Guess I can stop at the Harley dealer on 167, and check them out. Still looking,

Might work, Not sure on the front, angle. Thanks for info, will keep looking. Will keep eye out for a harley, with those mounted, to check out closer.

On my 08 RSTD, I have installed a luggage rack in place of the passenger seat ( No passenger ) OK, my question is, has anybody installed Luggage racks on the Saddle Bag Covers ??? If so, where might I find them? Any ideas ?? Thanks---

I installed the 2 inch wider ClearView, brand aftermarket with lowers, on my new 08 RSTD. Fantastic !!! Money well spent.

I would start bye draining all 4 carb bowls. Then completly Drain the Fuel tank, make sure you get it all out. Replace fuel and add, Sea Foam. Then Replace the Plugs, if they are " Overdue " Then do a Carb Sync , I suspect your Throttle cables are out of adjustment, read the manual on how to set up the cables. Then do a Carb Sync, You Might, be in need of a new set of Carb Diaphrams, if all of the above does not help .

I hear there are lots of jobs out on the Oil Fields, check Alberta !!! ( well, it might work )

Open the Main Fuse Holder, remove fuse element, clean it, and re-install, the two small screws that hold the element in place might be loose. Open up the right handlbar, and check the KILL Switch !!! If your voltage is low, you may find this Switch, dirty, and has turned into a RESISTOR, which is lowering the Voltage. You might have High Resistance, dirty Contacts across the Main Ignition Switch, On/Off Contacts. ( you might have to dissassenble and repair the Ignition Switch, or replace it ) --- Check the Ignition Fuse, Fuse Holder, !!! Actually the first place to look !! After all of this, It is still possible that there is something else, in some other Circuit, Drawing down the voltage, and basicly it could be almost anything. But the Above Items, are Common Trouble Spots. !!! Talk to " AtlantaDragonSlayer" , about the " Kill Switch Thing " He know all about it from first hand experience !!! Everybody knows about the bad Ignition Fuse, problem !!!

With everything hooked up, engine running. At the Plug between Stator, and R/R unit. Stick meter lead into the Plug, one of the 3 phases at a time. Read AC voltage to ground. Take Three readings, for each phase. They should all be about the Same AC voltage, it will vary with Engine RPM. IF one of the three, is Lower then the other two, then the Stator most likley is bad. IF, All read same voltage, the Double Check every Inch of Wireing, from Stator to R/R Unit. You might have missed, a damaged wire !!! ( Well maby ) --- Is your large White plug Damage ????? This is common, Burnt Pins in the plug. ( But I'm sure you knew that, so ??? ) Inspect the Output plug carefully from the R/R unit, possible damaged plug there. Make sure the Black, Ground , OUTPUT wire from the R / R Unit, is Actually grounded !!! on 86, that main ground point, is buried Under the Upper Left Side Fairing . ( Not easy to get to )

I bought a new 08 RSTD last Aug, Only made one trip, Seattle to Los Angeles and back, and the bike allready has 9000 miles on it. Don't know where all the extra miles came from ???? Darn thing just won't stay in the garage !!!! :confused24: :whistling::whistling:

As long as our replaceing them, would be a good time to get a set of Heated , Grips !! :whistling:

Yes, be careful what you ask for on this site, sometimes you get more then you bargined for He He He !!

Its almost a requirement with these bikes to buy the " CarbTune Tool " to Sync the carb Throttle linkage adjustments. These bikes are very sensitive to keeping the carbs Synced !! Ditto: the above, advice of complete Draining tank. ( I would also, drop out the petcock, and clean the screen in the petcock. ) Don't forget to Replace the Fuel Filter !!!! Yours is OLD, needs replacement !!! Also, ANY, " Intake " Air leaks on this engine, will cause trouble !!! Check the clamps above and below the Carbs, make sure everything is " in place " and the Clamps are doing a good job of sealing

Well, its a sad day for America !!! Sounds like there Ain't going to be any more " Twinkies " !!!! at the grocery store !!! Whats next ???? Will I be able to buy a new " Chevy " next year ?????

Might be a good time to install a set of " Heated Grips " as long as your replaceing them. I just installed a set on my new 08, really a nice improvement !!

Din't do much good though. Probably the worst, election day of my entire life, so I went down to the garage and worked on the Bike today. Feeling a bit better now. !!

Check under the Licence plate mount. there are a bunch of pull apart connectors, in there. Might be a loose , or dirty, or corroded connection.

Might also be the starter solinoid, they are known to go bad slowly over time. Only fix, really is to simply replace it. Some guys have replaced the OEM solinoid with small car starter solinoids. I would first pull the Neg bat. cable at the front right corner of the crankcase ( near the water pump) Pull out that bolt and clean it. Also, Re - Solder, both ends of both Battery cables. Check your Run-Stop Switch on the right handle bar, for High Resistance across that switch. Because All current for the TCI runs thru that switch, High resistance here can Lower the Voltage to the Ignition system. Also, check your Ignition Fuse, Mounting posts. they are know to go bad. Again this cause's high resistance across that fuse, lowering the voltage to the ignition system. There is a Main Grounding Point, located, under the Upper Left side fairing. Its hard to get to, but should be checked for loose nut, and or corrosion. This Point is ground for everything on the bike, ( Except the starter motor ) Open up, and check, and clean, Both of the Large Plugs that come off the cables that run to the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit. Especially the White plug, from the Stator to the Regulator, This is a KNOWN TROUBLE SPOT, if its still installed, most of us cut out that plug, and solder the wires together !!

As to replacement brake pads for a 2nd gen. ( 08 ) . I am looking for any comments as to aftermarket brake pads, which brand, is the best quality to buy, in terms of " stopping power " ie: What brand works the best !!! Irregardless of the cost, Is there an agreement here as to the highest quality brake pads ?? :detective:

Check the clamps below, and above the carb bodies, Remove air cleaner, make sure the Arrows are lined up. Also check the intake manifolds for cracks and leaks. Check the two bolts that hold each manifold onto the cylinder heads. ( there are rubber O-rings where manifolds mount to heads. and they can leak ) Check all the nuts and bolts, holding the Carbs onto the Mounting brackets, make sure everything is tight. Be sure to Lubricate, all of the Throttle Linkage assemblies, and lubricate the throttle plate shafts going thru each carb. Have you ever lubricated the throttle cables ?? Might help. when you do the carb sync, check for Adjusting for the Minimum Pull Cable, Slack Adjustment. Be sure you have 1/16 to 1/8 inch of slack in the pull cable. I found over the years that I had to Re-Sync my 89 at least once a year, always needed some re-adjustment. but not to bad. Not enough to notice while actually driveing the bike.

UPS is supposed to deliver it tomorrow !! Ordered it about 3 weeks ago. Also, have a set of heated grips comeing.