GeorgeS

Hmmm ???? if about 75 percent of us would bother to " Vote " next election, maby we could make this mess " Go Away " !! Maby the " Pipe Line " would get built !!!! Think !!! about what not voteing has gotten you, when your at the gas pump !!!!

Wa. state is talking about adding another 10 Cents. per gallon for Road Construction. Something like that. ??

If you have a Costo store close, as Miles said, best place to get it. Normally about $36.00 a case , and about every two months or so they run it for $10.00 off with coupon in their flyer book. Also, Wal Mart has it for pretty good price.

Ok folks, the B-17 just made a low pass over my house at about 500 feet. !! Not sure which one it was, but I guess we are all being well protected !! Ahhhh the sound !! Love that sound !!! :cool10:

I been listioning to news reports, last night, and this morning. Your information has far more detail then anything I have heard so far on the TV News. Thanks !! I saw the video, from a Security camera , across the river, It was Amazing, how fast the Section of bridge went down into the water !!

OK later this afternoon, was listioning to Ham Radio, 2 meter, repeater , Seattle area that is owned and run by a group of Truckers. ( while working on my RSTD of course , getting ready for a road trip ) -- OK, this guy said, as best I understood him. ( A trucker ) . Something to the effect that a Pickup Truck, pulling an RV of some kind, cut Off the Large truck, carrying the " Wide " over size load. The Trucker swerved to avoid hitting the guy in the pickup truck, this caused his Oversize Load to " Strike the Bridge " or Engage the bridge, and this caused the big rig to roll over. I guess the strike took out a girter or two, and the bridge then failed. The Pick up, and the Big Rig, and one other car, ended up In the River. Nobody was killed. I'm waiting to find out, just " What " ??? the oversize load consisted of ???? But, IF, it was something like a D-8 Caterpiller ?????? Well, you can let your imagination run wild on that !!!

I have a 2nd gen now, " No " gear indicator, so far I don't really miss it !! But, you get 10 points for fixing your's !!!

About 10 PM last nite, on TV news. ( local station ) There was a witness saw the " Wide Load " tractor trailor rigs, High Load, Hit the girder, the Truck Rolled, according to the whitness ( sombody nearby, not driveing across bridge ) Apparently they did not correctly Measure the height of the load. Or, forgot to check what the " Clearances" were on the route they were takeing. So as I understand it, the bridge did not fail !! It was hit by the trucks, " LOAD " and damaged by that, and then went down.

I would disconnect power ( or pull fuse ) to " any " aftermarket lighting that has been added to the bike. Then Clean ALL the light sockets. Relace the bulbs for all Turn Signal lights. ( slight chance it could be a bulb causing the problem, but " not " likley ) Do a resistance reading " from " the Neg side of bulb sockets, to the Neg side of battery, make sure NO Resistance above Zero Ohms. ( ie: be sure the sockets are really grounded. ) Large Plug, going to all the rear lights, Find it, open it, and clean all the pins. Find the Main Grounding point, check for loose , and corroded connectins. ( Not sure where it is on 2nd gens. ) ( I need to locate this point on my 08 ) Hmmm ?? If all else fails, well, maby the flasher unit itself has a problem. Any other " Pull Apart Plugs " front or rear in the Signal system, Clean them !! Find the fuse, check for dirty connections at the fuse holder. ( not likley the problem, but worth checking ) :detective:

About 7PM Pacific time, Wide Load truck hit the I-5 Bridge over the Skagit River near Mt. Vernon, Wa. One bridge section fell into river. I-5 Closed, north and South between Seattle and the Canadian border. There are Detour's -- 3 Vehicals into the River, nobody killed. Load hit girder, truck rolled, and then the entire section fell into the river !! Anyway, just in case anybody is interested !!

IF, the milage is correct, and the thing has been stored in a garage, and serviced at least now ant then probably a good deal. But, IF, its been sitting " Out behind the Barn " for the last 15 years, ???? Well, I would be carefull. $500 is really cheap, so, I strongly suspect it has some kind of problems. But, for that price, and if you want to do the work, maby a good deal,

Check for any modifications that have been done to this bike. Check the lighting fuse . Maby bad connection there. But, Head and tail, should be on different fuses. So should not be the problem if both head, and tail are pulsing. I would hook a voltmeter across the battery, put meter, in tank bag, and take a test drive, and monitor what the voltage level is doing. However, it smells like a bad ground connection somplace,

About 5 or 6 years ago, I took off my first E-2 " Rear " for replacement. Out of curiosity ( because it seemed to be Heavier , then the original bridgestone ) that I still had laying in the corner of the garage. SO: --- I Cross Cut the Caseing of both the E-2 and the old Bridgestone. Hmmm , found something interesting. ( I used a hack saw, took a bit of work ) The Caseing of the E-2 measured almost 1/2 inch thick. The Caseing of the old Bridgestone measured only 1/4 inch thick. In both case's I was NOT, including the thickness of the Tread. Only the caseing thickness. Point--- You get a lot more rubber with the E-3's If anybody has a bunch of Used, Rear, take off's, would be interesting to cross cut all of the most popular brand Rear's that most of us use on these bikes !! Just to compare the caseing thickness of them. Or, simply put them all on a Scale, and compare the Weights, of the Tires.

I usually hit 5th when I get on the open road, or open highways. I down shift to 4th for hills, or dicy traffic situations. In the city, I usually stay in 4th. You do have to do more shifting with these bikes compared to V-Twins. Just the nature of the beast. Anything between 3500 to 4500 RPM is fine. Just don't be constantly lugging the engine. However gear ratio's are NOT, the same from 83 to 93. There were some changes. Also in the 2nd gen's after, I think 2000 or so, again ratio's were changed. On my 08, both 4th and 5th gears are Overdrives. I have found that driveing my 08 is a bit different then the 89 I had for 18 years. Bottom line, here is simply, " don't lug down the engine " Use the RPM's !! Thats where the power is !!

Well first check the fuse, ( 5 amp ) as I recall, its in the second fuse holder located, forward of the battery. Pull it out, and clean the fuse holder contacts, ( can't hurt anything ) The plug going to the radio unit, clean all the pins with Electrical contact cleaner. Also, tug on the wire's both sides of the plugs, as I recall, I had some loose wires on my 89 . The wire pulled right out of the crimp inside one side of the plug. You might have to do some resoldering on that plug, with a very small soldering iron, ( and use rosin core solder ) I'm thinking an Intermittant connection to power, or to ground. Can be either side. Give that plug a good going over, pretty sure thats where you will find the problem.

have you tried a good dose of Sea Foam ?? Let it soak for a week or so. Also, drain the carb bowls several times, with Sea Foam, in the fuel. Also, I'm thinking maby the carb sync was not done correctly. Check the Pull cable of the throttle, at left fwd carb. Is there Any Slack in the cable, before the Linkage starts to move. IF not, most likley the cables need to be re-adjusted, and you need to Re-Sync the Carbs. Do you have the Morgan Carb Tune tool ??

Try some Sea-Foam, or techraline first. Maby the float valves are simply Sticking. Give it a week or so, to soak with a heavy dose in the fuel. Drain the carbs several times during the week, Might fix the problem. Worth a try. Good idea, to completly drain the tank also, Start with all new fuel . Did you check the hose from petcock to the fuel filter?? Any leaks around the fuel filter?? Several rubber hoses, on top of the carb bank, possibly a leak there ?? ( pull air filter box for access )

OK, so your going all the way to Tenn. just for " frog Legs " ????? Be sure to try some of the " clear liquid " that they have there also !! Bye the way, its raining in Seattle !!!! :whistling:

Removing tank is not a big deal ! 10 min job

OK, still raining, so checked the bolt on my shifter. It was tight, but, not very !! maby 5 lb of torque at most. Interesting that, they used such a small bolt. OK, pulled it out, only about 1/2 inch of threads engaging from the short bolt they used. I checked the hole, and found the hole is about 1/4 inch deeper then the bolt yamaha used. So, I installed a longer bolt ( cut to fit ) and added a lock washer on top of the large flat washer. I used a bolt with a Hex 10MM head. And a generous dose of Red Lock tight. Also it appears, that " IF " the threads were to become damaged on that small bolt, there is plenty of metal to drill out, and thread to the next size larger bolt. ( If need be ) Still raining, ( about 1 1/2 inch in last 24 hours ) , so I also applied a generous dose of Mink Oil to my Riding Boots !! :whistling:

And drain the carbs, several times while the heavy dose's of Sea Foam, in the gas. !!

Well, I guess I will run down to garage and check mine. Shift lever bolt, that is. Its raining today in Seattle, not much else to do ?? :( :depressed:

On the Single Filament, 1057 bulbs used for the Turn signals. You can take an 1157, Double Filament bulb ( used for tail and brake light ) and modify it for the Turn signals. Simply use a Solder Iron, and build a Solder Bridge across the two contacts. Now use the modified 1157 Double Filament, in place of the single filament 1057. Use this for your Turn signal bulbs, and you now have brighter Turn Signals !! Easy. I added LED's for the Tail light, Works great. ( Rewireing required ) For the Brake light, I also use the 1157, with the solder bridge across the two Contact points. So Both filaments light up. ( But have to remove the Tail Light Wire to that Bulb socket )

You made the correct choice :cool10:

When you get to 50 , give me a call :whistling: