GeorgeS
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Everything posted by GeorgeS
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Check both ends of grd cable, check cable from + battery stud to the Start Solinoid, check studs from Solinoid down the nut on the Starter. --- If all tight, then with Enging running check for a minimum of 12.7 volt on + terminal of battery, but it should be around 13.5 V DC charging voltage with enging running. ---- If this all checks out ok, then Charge the Battery with your charger, Disconnect it from the bike, and let it Sit for day or two, If it drops to below 12V just sitting for 24 hours, then the battery is No Good, even if it is New, and it should be under Warrenty.
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I just put new set of Avon's on my 89. Rebuilt front end, installed new progressive Springs and I have the Supperbrace installed also. --- I have only ridden it about 100 miles with the new tires, but the bike finally seems to Drive Correctly. Its a subtle comparison, but so far I think I can say the Avon's are better handling. I put in 15 Wgt. fork Oil, and have been test rideing with No Air pressure with the progressive springs. Seems to ride just fine that way. After I get in a couple of long rides, I might switch back to 10 wgt oil in the forks. --- will see, Tires are not really broke in yet.
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Well it does do what's claimed. Emergency Repair to get you to the Next Bike shop down the road. Interesting discusion, now I'm wondering If you could add some chemical sealant to the Plug before inserting it. ?? I will have to play with that idea a little, and see what happens. But I think it might gum up the works. The hole I drilled in the sample, was 1/8 diameter. The tool did not go thru the hole easy.
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Well, the kit does not include any chemicals. The small bottle with the kit just has some 20 wgt oil. Its supposed to help the Plug go thru the small hole in the tool. --- Anyway the test run went just as advertised in the instruction sheet. Seems to work OK for a Tempory road repair, and with a can of Air, or CO-2 cartrage should get you to the Next Motorcycle shop down the road, for a new tire. !! --- Seem's to be a pretty good product, and the tools are very high quality.
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I bought one of these items a few years ago. Never used it on the road. So I decided yesterday to try it on an old section of tire, just to see how it would work. Seem's to work great, just followed detailed instruction sheet. I took photo's, of the process, might be of Interest to those folks who are pron to haveing flat tires.
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Except for one thing, All Steering, Is Counter Steering, except under about 5 MPH. I know a lot of people don't believe this. Proove it to yourself on a bycle.
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I checked several Yam Dealer Web sites, trying to buy this Yamaha special tool. ---- YM-33282 --- For pulling the Rotor. I finally found that it is re manufactured by K + L Tool company. K + L part number is, 35-8507 ( $22.99 ) They do not sell direct, only thru dealers. I got one ordered from Moto-Service's, Glendale AZ Phone, 623-363-1267.
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I agree completly: The v-Max site I found the info on, was simply stateing that some folks have found this Connection Corroded. Probably on a bike that has been parked out in the weather for some number of years. As their are 5 wires connected to this Crimp Joint, ( I confirmed this by checking my Spare Wireing Harness ) and its is easy to check it out, its worth takeing a look at. Especially for anyone who has purchaced an Old 1 ST gen that may have been parked out in the weather for a long period. Frankly, I don't trust Crimped electrical Joints. I never use splice's on motorcycles, I always solder and use Shrink Tubeing . One more thing about this Particular Crimped Connection. Its located right next to the Battery. I'm thinking Battery Acid, maby the guy who posted the info on the V-Max site, got a bike that battery Acid had gotten onto this particular connection. All it has for protection, is a round of black tape. Whatever, Anyway its something to do during the Ice Storm back East !!!
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--- Thats what " Soldering Flux " is for. ---- Two types, " Rosin Type flux, or Rosin Core Solder " Is used for all electrical wireing, and radio electronic repairs. ---- Acid Flux, or Acid core Solder is used for plumbing soldering. If you find corroded copper electrical wireing, Apply Rosin soldering Flux, and High Heat. This process will Chemicaly Clean the copper wire. It will then take solder. Remember, Acid core solder is for Plumbing !!! --------------Rosin core solder is for Electrical Connections --- NEVER USE ACID CORE SOLDER ON ANY TYPE OF ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS Any soldered electrical connection, can be repaired.
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I'm not pushing this guys advice, I just stumbled on it. However, With Corrosion, an old bike sitting out in the weather, well, maby. I just pulled my spare E-Bay Wireing harness out of the cabinet, and checked the joint the guy pointed out. It was Clean copper, Crimped, Not Soldered, and measured Zero Ohms. It is located exactly 6 inches from the Master Fuse Holder. Anyway, next time I have it opened up I'm going to solder it. However if sombody buys an Old bike thats been sitting out in the Weather several years, It might be worth checking. There are 5 Wires Crimped together at this Joint, 3 smaller ones.
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I just found this on a V-Max WebSight: I have not checked my bike yet ( 89 ) to see if this minor fix applies to Ventures, as well as the V-Max. Its the Red wire from output of the Voltage Regulator going to the Main Fuse holder then to the Battery Positive Terminal. The Information claims this connecting point is just " Crimped" and should be Soldered. Why, because there is a 1 volt voltage drop across the crimp connection. At least thats what is Claimed. I can't confirm it yet. Check this web address, http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/main.html On left of page click on v max tech + Info: Then Scroll down to and find, " Crimp" connection fix. It gives Schematic information, and some good photographs as to how to do the " fix " The Fuse holder looks same as on 1st Gens. I will check mine tomorrow, or as time presents itself, being that I am now Retired, Time is in fairly short Supply. And its January and its Cold in the Garage, and I just got home with a 6 pack !!
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Add, some repair wire, splice's and black tape. C0 2 carteragis, and tool to use them. A 1/4 drive ratchet set with a set of 6 pt. metric sockets. Add a needle nose pliers, to the tool kit. #2 and #3 apex allen head tips, use with a 1/4 inch socket and ratchet comes in handy. Be sure to carry a couple extra spark plugs !!
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" the Stop & Go Tire Plugger Tubless Tire Repair Kit " is a very high quality kit, install a rubber plug in nail holes. but they cost about $30.00 The product called " Ride On " Sealant is about the best stuff in a can you can get. You can also get the Large CO 2 cartarige's at most large bike shops, and the filler tool. The fix a flat stuff at most auto stores, will take about 2 can's to air up with after fixing with the Stop and go kit. One can will give you about 20 psi. I just purchaced 3 bottles of the " Ride On " stuff, and am going to put into my new set of Avon's for next rideing season. There are lots of posts on this site concerning the Ride On product.
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Ok, you need to remove the Entire Air Cleaner box, Easy, Lossen four clamps top of carbs, It comes right out. ( Check this E-Bay Auction # for Plug Wire Set, Item number 220065204107 ) Then you will have to remove the Battery, and Battery Box. ( check for Acid Leaks from the battery, clean up with bakeing Soda ) The four screw holding the TCI in place are #3 Phillips. Use Apex Tips in a 1/4 Socket, with 1/4 ratchet. They will be TIGHT. ( NOTE: if you reinstall it in the stock position, get some new Allen Head bolts, this will make it eaiser to remove next time ) Once you have the TCI out, the Plug Wires are Easy to Replace. You just screw the cap off of each Coil !! ( Be sure to dissassemble the plastic two wire plug to each coil and clean the contacts, spray with CRC 2-26 contact cleaner ) Replace wires with NGK, Wires, Caps and new plugs. Open the TCI, and put in warm oven at about 110 deg F for 4 or 5 hours. Be carefull on the heat. then use a Pen soldering iron, and rosin core solder, resolder the Connector plugs to the Circuit board. If you don't feel comfortable with this job, take it to a TV Repair Guy. Or, maby a Ham Radio Guy that might be in your Neighborhood. Also, while you have all this open and ACCESS ACCESS !!! I suggest, you Replace the Starter Solinoid, Resolder both ends of both Battery Cables. ( pull the grounding bolt and CLEAN CLEAN IT !!! BEFORE REINSTALLING THE GROUND CABLE) ( Be sure to clean the Starter Wire Stud, and after re installing your Resolderd Red Cable, I suggest covering the Stud with some rubber Silastic material. to keep it from Corroding again !!! Replace ALL ALL of your Fuses's, ( Why?? , why not ? ) Clean and check tension where the fuses mount in the fuse holder. ( its a piece of junk ) Also: Every time you " SEE " An Electrical Connector( No mater what color it is ) while you are doing all this Fun Work, pull it apart, and Spray down with CRC Brand 2-26, electrical connection cleaner !! ( Avialable at Home Depot ) ( This is GOOD STUFF, I used it on Aircraft Electronics for about 30 years!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ) I expect you will have this all completed by the End of January !! Right???
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I highly reccomend CRC Brand, Item # CRC 2-26, spray can Electrical connection cleaner. Home Depot carries it in the Home Electrical Section ( dept. ) There are a couple large plugs under the Instrument panel. Pull the head light assy to get in there. I reccomend you Dissassemble every plug you can get your hands on and clean and spray down with CRC 2-26. Also, thats VERY GOOD advice to check the large 3 wire plug from Alternator to the Regulator unit. These have always been a Trouble spot. If the plug is damaged beyond repair, most folks just splice the wires together, ( If you do this, Solder them and install a couple layers of Shrink Tubing )
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RSV Electrical Capacity Info
GeorgeS replied to V7Goose's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Is it really necessary to have the Carb Heaters working after the Engine has warmed up to running temp ??? If not, then why not Install a switch to simply Turn them Off after you have reached running temp, no matter what the outside air temp is. ??? -
If you are comeing up the Ore Coast on 101, be sure to ride across the Columbia River Bridge, at Astoria Ore. into Washington. The Mouth of the Columbia River is Quite a Sight if you have never seen it. If you are heading North on I-5 from Portland heading to Seattle, take an extra hour, and make a side trip on Wa. #4 from Longview out west along the Columbia River to Cathalemet, Wa. and then back to I-5 Its worth the drive. Watch for Very Large Ships right next to the Highway. ( yes, I did mean " Ships " ) Or take #4 all the way to the Coast, then 101 up to Aberdeen, and back to I-5.
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Read thru this entire thread. Looks like you have solved about 90 percent of the problem. You mentioned plug wires might not be correct, early on. Maby sombody put in auto wires ?? maby I missed, it but did you replace the plug wires yet with NGK, and the wires should be solid core copper wire, not carbon auto plug wire. Also, I might suggest pulling out the TCI Unit, Drying it out, and checking for cold solder joints in side the box where the plugs connect to the circuit board. This is not a real commom problem but it does pop up. These box's do get moisture in them, and bad solder joints. One more comment, you might have some holes in the Carb Diaphrams. ????
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You might need to adjust the " Idle adjust needle jets " 2 1/8 turns open CCW from full closed I believe is the agreed upon correct starting point. You have to pull the lead seal, over each one. Screw them In CW and count the number of 1/4 turns, and make a record of each of the 4 carbs. So you know where they were set. Then reset too 2 1/8 turn open ( CCW ) This might take care of your problem. You should then do a full Carb ReSync.
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http://www.pashnit.com/forum/printthread.php?t=8015 Maps and photo's posted at this link.
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Better yet, on your next replacement, get a Gell Cell, or, the Odyssey Dry Cell ( PC-680 ) The PC-680 puts out 3 times the cranking amps as any Lead Acid battery. They run 12.7 volts.
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Also, if stopping at Tillamook Oregon, when finished touring the Cheese factory and eating Ice Cream, be sure to allow a couple hours to see the Old Naval Air Station there. check this link http://www.tillamookair.com/html/air_craft_list.html Especially if you are an Aviation Buff !!!!!!!! There is still one of the old. huge Derigable ( Blimb ) Hangers there. ( Built of Wood ) Complete with lots of old WW II Aircraft. Many still in flying condx. Originally there were two of the big hangers, but one burned down sometime back in the 70's. Its only about 4 miles SE of Tillamook. The Spruce Goose, ( Howard Huges' Seaplane ) is also located about 60 miles from Tillamook. Aviation Buff's might want to take a side trip to see it. I saw it in Long Beach before they moved it to Oregon. http://www.sprucegoose.org/
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Another thing to check for starting problems. On the original yamaha cables, check the studs for being Crimped , AND Soldered. I found that 3 of the studs were crimped and soldered. However the stud at the Starter, was Only Crimped, it had not been soldered. And it was beginning to Corrode. Adding a ground wire to the Starter frame is also a good idea. Also, remove the Ground cable from right frt corner of engine, check the bold threads for corrosion. ( Mine was corroded !! ) Also check the connections on the Starter solinoid, and consider replaceing it on high millage first Gens.
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Well if anybody really wants to tour Wa and Or. Basicly just get out the map, almost Any Road is a Good road up here !! You could spend two weeks touring in just these two states and never run into a boreing road. But the US 101 run from Calif. up the Oregon Coast, and Wa. coast, around the Olympic Peninsula to Port Angeles, I reccomend for everybody. Then Hyw 2 across northern Wa. to Idaho, then down thru Id. to the Devils Canyon, in NE corner of Oregon. Get a Geoalogy book and do a little reading on that before you come up to this area. Lots of interesting things to know about and ride thru when you get here.
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Add a can of SEA-FOAM to the Gas Tank. this will keep the carbs and fuel system clean. Its also not a bad idea, to change the oil and filter. Have clean oil in the engine during storage, but this is not critical. Be sure the Battery water is topped off, unless you hava a sealed battery. Also, I would charge the battery about once a month during storage. By starting it, and not letting it run very long, you will be useing up the battery charge.