GeorgeS

And, be sure to pull the drive shaft and Greese the Forward Spline, as well as the Wheel hub assembly. For some reason Yamaha does not seem to use very much Greese. Greese Is Good Stuff !!!!!!!!!!!!

Over time I have heard many folks talk of Instrument panel lights going out or going Dim . And Tachometer not working at same time. Some say the Side Stand switch has something to do with it. I'm trying to track this down on the schematic, but have not figured that out as yet. The Schematic, only shows, Ground Symbols for the light sockets, and does not show where the ground connections are actually made to the frame of the bike or in the wireing harness. I decided to dig into this, and find the Actual ground connections. I have a junk Inst Panel, and Wireing Harness I use for parts. Here is what I found . 1. On the Instrument Panel, there are ( 8 ) black ground wires, comeing from the various light bulb sockets . They are all connected together thru a series of three splices, and then one wire goes to Pin 5 of the Nine Pin White connector ( the female plug ) located 8 inches to the left of top center of the instrument panel ( your right looking thru head light area ) 2. The black wire comeing from pin 5 then runs into the wireing harness. I opened up the Old harness, and followed this wire, it goes thru "" Three""" more Crimped, and taped splices, and eventually gets to a ground stud, near the left side of the battery. 3. If you are missing a ground to the light bulbs, ( On the Inst Panel ) or have a High Resitance ground to them, what would be AN EASY AND FAST FIX ????? See, my photo, showing the Black wire from pin 5 of the "Male" side of the plug. The wire in question laying across palm of my hand. Seems to me, you could Cut, the wire here, and splice in a chunk of about # 16 or #18 stranded wire, and run this wire to a Convient Ground point somplace in the forward fairing area. This would insure that all the bulbs in the Panel Now have a good ground. Also, just pulling this connector apart, and useing some contact cleaner on it would be a good place to start. I am open to any and all comments, or corrections. GeorgeS

This is why I keep telling everybody, to pull apart Every Electrical Connector on these Old Bikes and Apply a good " Electrical Contact Cleaner " --- Such As, CRC Brand, 2-26 or a similiar product ----

I use 80W -90W, petrolium base. I feel that Its much more important to change it OFTEN, then exactly what weight or brand etc etc. Its easy to do, and cheap, Also, I like to drain it often to look at the oil and see that there's no excess metal shaveings. The minumum interval I use is when changing rear tire, 12 to 15 K I always change it in spring before rideing season starts, no matter how many miles on the oil.

If anybody Successfully gets these things installed on a 1St Gen. Could you pleas post some pictures ?? I would be interested in buying a pair of them if they work.

Remember these bikes are Heavy, If you Ride Double, and carry full bags and all the extras on long trips. You could eaisly wear them out in under 10K, or just short trips rideing single, with no extra load they might last twice as long. -- On trips to Calif on I-5 Going thru the Mountains, on curvy Freeway, there are times I have had my brakes literaly Smokeing, I could Smell them. Lot cheaper to buy Pads, then to Damage a Rotor. Its money well spent. Live to ride another day

Is the Antenna on 2nd Gen same as first Gen ?? If so, you might have a marketable product here.

What ????

Condor is right !!!!! Drive dureing the day, and sleep at night Cell phones are the way to go.

Basicly what you Could Do, if this is Really Important to you, would be. --------Install, whats called, A " Linear Amplifier " If one could find a CB Band linear Amp, of about 25 to 50 Watts power rateing. --------Do to the size of our Batteries, I would not reccomend any higher power rateing, then 25 Watts, ( 50 at the maximum ) due to Current Draw on the Battery. ------- Also, I would suggest installing a Gell Cell Battery, or the Odyessy Dry Cell ( PC-680 ) IF, you do install a CB Power Amp. --------This Amplifier could simply be mounted, near the Trunk, and feed with a 1/4 wave length of RG-58/U Coax, and the out put of the Amp would feed the Antenna, with a second length of 1/4 wave length coax. I would suggest a Dual Antenna system to get maximum performance from the Added power Amp, if you are going to go to all the trouble. ------The commercial ( Linear ) Amplifier does not have to be tuned during usage, It simply does its thing, ( amplifies the 5 watt RF Signal from the Transmitter ) They are designed to operate across the entire CB Band, range of frequencies. However haveing Said all this: -------Remember, that with a ( lets say 50 watt amplifier ) you will be drawing high current from your battery. This would not be a big problem for short duration transmissions. ----- Also, remember that installing a Power Amp of over 5 watts on a CB Band Transmitter, Is Illegal. I know everybody does it, however, it is illegal. -----Also, in the "Real World of Radio Propagation" of Signals in the 20 to 35 Megahertz range dureing daylight hours, your Signal is only going to travel 5 to 30 miles for the Ground Wave, ( depending on radio propagation conditions ) on an Average day , with a very good antenna System on a larger vehical, that comprise's a good Ground Plane for your antenna system. -- ( your vehical Is the Ground Plane ) -- ( I am not talking about Sky Wave or Skip as commonly referred to in the CB culture world , just the local ground wave ) -----A MOTORCYCLE, IS A LOUSEY GROUND PLANE, AT BEST !!!.--- So, wether, you transmit 5 watts, or 50 watts, its not going to make much difference, for communicating with other vehicals within a 10 mile range. Your money would be better spent, on setting up a Very High Quality Dual Antenna system ( See FireStik Web Site ) With a properly set up Coaxial feed line system. ( Note: this does not mean simply running a random length of coax to the antenna, its more complicated then that ) I would suggest you go to the FireStik Web site, http://www.firestik.com/Tech_Docs.htm Scroll down the left side, you will find a section on " Motorcycle Installations " Read thru all of this Information, and you will have a much better understanding of what is involved. There is a lot of info here concerning Ground Plane, if you are not sure what that is. OK, where do you find a low power CB RF Amp ?? I'm not sure, go to a CB dealer and ask whats avialable in the 25 Watt Power Range. If you buy one, buy the best, due to Vibration, moisture, etc etc. Remember, junk is junk, and this includes electronic components. Forget, the 100 Watt Units, the small motorcycle battery system cannot handle this much current draw. --- ( however you could install a Double Dry Cell Battery System, lots of work, and Couple hundred bucks. Or more for this. And lots of fabrication work ) --- ( I did this on my 89 Venture, for my Ham Radio VHF/UHF Transciever, which runs 40 Watts of RF output power. This cost me about $250 bucks and lots of work just for the double battery system ) -----What can you expect for results ?? Easy way to answer that would be simply park your Bike in the driveway, and listion to the truckers in your area. Hook up a battery charger while doing this . Or have your wife or a friend, drive down the road with a CB in the car, and see how far you can talk to them . If you can hear a 100 Watt Truck unit, 15 miles down the road, the best range on another motorcycle would be about 10 miles. And I think thats stretching it. Even if that motorcycle did have a double antenna system, with a 100 W amplifier. I recently Installed a new 3 Foot Fire Stik on my 89, Single antenna system. With new coax. I have been monitoring trucks in the area. About the best range I hear is about 10 miles, and trucks beyond that the signal gets scratchy. I assume most of the turckers are running power amps. I am a Ham Radio operator, been in it since 1959, and have set up several Mobile Installations, of the ham radio bands, and several CB installations in cars. I'm sure that most of what I have said here is " In the Ball Park" , as they say. However I am open to any and all corrections, and I'm sure there will be a few. Anyway thats my 2 cents worth. George S ( N7UY Ham call sign )

----------- OK, did you get it running ??? we all want to know !!!

Drain the carb bowl several times, Put in about half a tank and see what happens. If it has a fuel filter replace that also. After you get it going, as a little HEET, to get out any moisture that might be in tank.

I have always used Regular, gas, wherever I was. Never a problem. Except, in Calif. the gas there causes a small hesitation when accelerating at high speed. ( I think its the ethenol they ad to the fuel in calif. ) Not a big problem, but I always notice it when I run down to calif. I have never noticed any Pinging from this engine.

More people are killed every year on bicyles then motorcycles !!

If I have gone 175 miles, or the gauge reads 1/4 tank left, I never passs a Gas Station without filling up. Besides, by then its time to stop for some other good reason anyway !!! Why live on fumes ??

So, does this mean, your original battery in the new bike was No Good ?? And, thats what caused all the trouble. Hmmm Interesting. Question: to anybody, is there an ElectriX, Replacement Stator for the 2nd Gens ?? If so, would this help with the current Draw problem. ??

Well, if you can find a throat mike, then find sombody to wire up a plug that fits the passenger intercom plug. You can get the plugs at radio shack.

This would be great for Sturgin Fishing on the Columbia River near the coast line. As far as 175 HP in touring bike, check out the new Kawaski, touring. make over of the ZX - 14. You are right in the ball park on HP. Or , bolt a Turbo on a Hyabusa, for about 2k, and you will get about 350 HP for your trouble. ( No S ---- I have seen it done )

Then there is a difference in the gears, from the 1 ST Gen's and the V-Max engines, I guess. Sounds like the Gear supplier screwed up. ? Or the Yama Designer.

Could anybody explain to me what the actual cause of this noise is? Does anybody know. Just Curious, Thanks

What is the Charge , DC, Voltage, at the + Battery Terminal, with the engine running ?? ---- Is it Above 13 Volts ?? It should be at least 13.5 volts, ---- Did you measure it with a Good Digital Voltmeter? If its not Above 13 volts, either the charging system is bad ( bad Alternator, or bad Rectifier/Regulator Unit ) or the Battery is shorting out Internally. That means the battery is NO Good and should be replaced no matter what anybody tells you. But from everything thats been said, sounds like the charging system is Bad, thats why I say measure the voltage at + terminal with motor running. With a Real voltmeter!!! If its not above 13 volts, there is a problem in the charging system, And don't let the dealer tell you otherwise!!!!!

The Instructions that come with the Odyessy batteries say to charge them at full rate, 4 to 6 Amps. At a steady charge rate until charged. They state to not use trickle charge. Wether this will hurt them or not, I don't know. ??? I have only been useing the high charge rate. I did let one of them run down on the Suziki once, and it took about 4 hours at 4 amps to recharg it.

The Odyessy Batteries are Advertised as " Dry Cell " --- They can be shipped UPS and USPS because of this. ( They are Dry ) --- They can be mounted in any position except Upside down. --- They are advertised, as Mil Spec. ------------Link to Odyessy Specifications PC-680 Size http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc680.htm Note Cranking amps, compare this figure to the Deka you are considering buying, whatever that happens to be. ???? As to the Dekka, you mention, I don't know anything about them. I have the Odyessy in Both of my Bikes now, so far no problem. I have read that people are useing them in small Airplanes also. --- I suggest you compare the Specification's of Both Brands, and Compare the spec sheets before you make you decission. ---- According to the spec sheets of the Odyessy, it puts out about 3 times the Cold Cranking Amps as a lead Acid battery. The Voltage runs from 12.4V at 40 percent charge, to 12.7 to 12.8 volts at full charge state. ---- The Odyessy, needs to be charged at full 4 to 6 Amp Charge rate, for 4 to 6 hours, No Trickle charge should be Used. This is according to their Spec sheet. ---- I have had them in one bike for about 18 months, and the other for 12 months. So Far, No problems !!! Anyway thats my take on them.

I received my New Set of Throttle cables for my 89 the other day, and they are Installed, Working Great. ---- Of Note: At the Carb, end, the New ones Have Vinal Inserts, I guess Yamaha took note of the Fraying at the #1 Carb hook up point. ---- Wether this will stop the Fraying problem, I don't know, but its worth takeing note of if you need to replace your throttle cables.

I've been scrounging around the Internet last 2 days looking for some Information on Repairing Control cables. --- Did not find much except, " Buy a new one " --- This morning I found this site, has some pretty good information, complete with photo's --- http://www.dansmc.com/cables.htm ----- --- http://www.flandersco.com/FlanCableSearch.html Might be of interest to sombody, also good info for snowmobile controls cable, and maby ever bycyle's. --- My new set of cables should be here today.