Jump to content

GeorgeS

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,137

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    Is there Voltage, to the Input side of Any of the Fuse's ?? If so, Which fuse's have voltage,?? and which do not have voltage to the Input side. Now check them all on the Output side. Disconnect the Battery + Wire, Check voltage Across the Battery with nothing connected to it !! ( Its possible the Battery Went Dead Short Internally !!! Rare, but it does happen !!! ) If voltage is low, put it on a Charger for about 6 hours, ( A real charger, not a trickle charger !!!!) Go to the Main " 40 amp " Fuse Holder . Is the fuse Blown ?? If its blown Open the unit and check for loose screws on the fuse element. ( I know that sounds crazy , its a weird fuse design ) Also if this fuse is blown, you have to assume there is short down line from the fuse. If you have voltage on output side of fuse, then go the the Ign Switch as the next culprit. High resistance across the Ignition Switch is a known problem on these bikes. Compare Input voltage to the switch to the Output voltage of the Switch, going to the Fuse holder. If Ign Switch is bad, you will not have full voltage to input of Fuse holder. Or it might be low voltage there, if there is high resistance across the Ing Switch If you find LOW voltage output from the Ignition Switch, Get some spray on Electrical Contact Cleaner, Give the Ign Switch a Bath with this stuff, and Blow out with compressed Air.
  2. GeorgeS
    Question: If you know, or can find out. How long has it been sitting, not in use ?? Could be, just carb clean up, new set of plugs, maby water in the gas tank. Stuff like that. when you go back to pick it up, if you do, listion carefully to what they tell you. ( make a list , and check it twice , then post it here !! )
  3. GeorgeS
    I would say about 5 mpg better. But that subjective My diaphrams, had about 3 holes each in three of them, and none in the 4th one. Milage was about 48K. I bought the bike new in 93. As I said , it was DEC. so was not going to put the old ones back in. so ordered a new set.
  4. GeorgeS
    Ground is the same ground for Brake, and Tail. So if brake lights work the ground for the two bulbs should be OK. Check for Voltage, on Input side of the " tail " fuse. Do the marker lights work on Front ?? If so, you have 4 bulbs not powered. There is a 3 wire Plug, between the Ing Switch, and the Tail light Fuse. If no power to fuse, the plug could be the problem, Or the Ing switch. ( if 4 bulbs out, might be ing sw. ) Power from the fuse goes direct to the Two front marker bulbs. ( bypass's the computer monitor unit ) But for the Tail lights it goes to the computer monitor unit, then Out and to rear of bike for the two tail light bulbs. there is a plug, about a 12 wire plug, located under the passenger seat, left side, pull this apart and clean the contacts. Problem might be there.
  5. GeorgeS
    A true biker, becomes very depressed when his bike is completly overhauled, repaired, modified, and is running Prefectly!! Time to buy another Junker to Fix !!!
  6. GeorgeS
    Do the progressive, you won't be sorry !!! While your at it, you might want to change the cross brace to the SuperBrace.
  7. GeorgeS
    Its used in all Large Aircraft tires, so it must be better. I read a report several years ago. At the big Gold Wing meet in colorado that year, Metzler company was there with their big truck. As Wingers Arrived from all over the country, they were given a free Tire pressure check. About half of them arrived with about 20 psi in their rear tires !! This was published in the BMW Owners club, magazine. Go Figure, Stupid !!! folks how many are out there.
  8. GeorgeS
    All motorcycles do this " at some speed " I read an extensive Testing report done in Germany on this. Many factors are involved. To put in perspective, a Grand Prix Race bike does it at some point over 200 MPH.
  9. GeorgeS
    I never had them out, and no problem with them, so can't say. I was not haveing problems with the main ones either. I just opened one up and found some holes, so I decided to change them, as it was December, and had nothing else to do , except put up Xmas lights. On the mixture screws, as you screw them into full closed, Keep count of 1/4 turns so you know where they were set, before you Open them to 2 1/8 turns. Thats the aggreed upon correct setting. No info on that in Service manual.
  10. GeorgeS
    When you pulled the one out, did you note if the " tamper proof " screw, (one on each diaphram cover ) was still untempered with ?? If so, then your's have probably never been removed. I think the best price, is about $85 apiece, but forgot which supplier that was. I would say when you replace the main diaphrams, do the enricher ones also. Also, are your " lead" seals, ( below, + center of Dia covers ) still Installed, over the Idle mixture adjust needle valve's ?? If so, pull out the lead seal, and adjust the " Idle mixture needle valves " to 2 1/4 turn CCW from full closed. ( carefull not to damage needles, when turning CW to the full closed position )
  11. GeorgeS
    The two sensors are in Series, Inst panel, to the front resovoiur, then to the Rear sensor, then "B" wire to ground. It looks like if you Lift the Rear black wire from its ground connection the light should go Off. However, that would disable the warning circuit. If you Replace all the Brake Fluid, it might stop comeing on. Its possible there is crud in the fluid, causing the Switch in the Fluid Resoviour to Stick. How long since you bleed out and replaced all the brake fluid ??
  12. GeorgeS
    You know, I been thinking about doing the J & M System, myself. And pulling out All of the Original Stuff. And pull out all the Air Pump System Also. Don't need it on the front anymore. Set up the Rear like the 2nd gens.
  13. GeorgeS
    I was just looking at diagram. For Power and Ground to the Flasher Relay. The " B " black wire obviosly has to be Ground. Im sure you checked this At the disconnect plug going to the flasher. Next, the " Br " wire At the Plug to the flasher is 12 Volts, Switched, from the " Signal " fuse. NOW ---- Power from sig. fuse goes to the " Hazard " switch, thru a set of contacts, (( Or the plug going " to " the Hazard Switch )) and then from there back thru its Pull apart plug, and --- Goes to the Flasher Relay --- thats its working power. So, make sure you have 12 volts at the Br wire on the Plug to the flasher, relay. IF Not, the trouble Could be in the " Hazard Switch" that nobody ever use's. ( clean it with contact cleaner ) I hope I explained this clearly, not easy explaineing electrical stuff like this.
  14. GeorgeS
    To check the bulb sockets, reomve the bulbs. Plug to each Socket, has 3 wires. disconnect plug, remove bulb, then check each wire to ground, and to each other. then check, each pin in the plug, to each contact, in the bulb holder. 1157, bulbs have 2 fillaments. both internally connected to the outer case, which is ground. OK, This is Very, Very Rare!! However, I have found bad bulbs that look OK, but one fillament can be dead shorted to the case ground. Or drop from about 4 ohms to grd, ( Normal ) to about 1 ohm. Bulb don't work, and fuse may or may not blow. But This is Rare. This is one of the most confusing electrical problems to find. This is why I say, when lighting problem, always replace the bulbs just to be sure. But I'm sure you have done that allready. If you don't find anything Obvious, or bad bulbs, or bad switch , or shorted wireing, or, open wires, then the flasher unit is probably bad.
  15. GeorgeS
    I was wondering if the mech who worked on it, Put Any Oil at all in it. If its bottoming out, with air, sounds like some parts were reinstalled wrong, or maby, the guy forgot to put in Any Oil at all. ??
  16. GeorgeS
    My thinking was, how much "oil " if any, did the guy who worked on it put In, And what wgt. If the thing is bottoming out and unridable, I'm wondering if the guy put in any oil at all. ??? Sounds pretty strange. Even with No Air pressure in the front forks, It should be ridable.
  17. GeorgeS
    I think I would drain the Oil out of the tubes into a Container, and see just how much Oil the guy put in after the work. Should be about 13 oz of oil in each side.
  18. GeorgeS
    First find the Relay, pull it out, and Clean the Contacts, that might fix it. ( maby, well, its worth a try ) I would check the bulb holders for corrosion: Maby replace all 4 bulbs. Also, Under the Seat, left side, ( under the Passenger part of seat) there is a Large Pull apart, Connector, has about 12 wires going thru it. Pull this apart and Clean with contact cleaner. I have heard of problems with this plug. Wires to the Rear bulbs go thru this plug.
  19. GeorgeS
    Don't mess with the Sync Screws ( one on left, two on right ) Unless you have mercury stiks, or the morgan carb tune. Just the Idle Adjust. You might also have to adjust the Throttle cables after you do the Main Idle Adjust Screw.
  20. GeorgeS
    Did you Charge the New Battery ??
  21. GeorgeS
    at the 8 pin plug, check the R/w wire, make sure you have full 12 V battery voltage. Also, the B wire Pin, be sure it is zero ohms to ground. On Left Side of bike, find the White plug with 5 wires , this is In line from the 6 pin TCI plug going down to the Pick Up Coil assembly, under the Alternator cover, Open this Plug, Clean contacts, and Make sure they are All makeing good contact. This is a Common Problem point. Plug is just left and Below the Tank fill, cover. From the R/W wire, read Resistance back thru the " Stop-Run" Switch, Too the OutPut side of the 15 AMP " Ing " fuse. ( the red switch on handlebar ) They are know to go High Resistance, or Intermittant. ( Apply spray on Contact cleaner to the Red Switch ) Read Resistance " Across " the 15 Amp " Ing Fuse" Read on the Soldered wires at the fuse holder. Next Check: 1. disconnect + battery cable. 2. disconnect 8 pin plug from TCI 3. Read Resistance from Loose end of + bat cable to " EACH " of 4 pins on the 8 pin Plug, the , " O ", " Gy " , " Y " and " W " wires. 4. You will be reading resistance " Thru " the 40 amp main fuse, the Ing. Sw. " On Off " contacts, the 15 amp Ing fuse, and thru each of the Pull apart plugs going to Each of the 4 " Ing Coil " Primary windings. YOU SHOULD SEE 3.2 TO 4 OHMS AT EACH OF THE 4 WIRES ON THE 8 PIN PLUG. Also, note the the " Feed " signal to the Tachometer comes from the " G/y " wire on the 8 pin plug. ( dissasemble, the 40 Amp main fuse, check for loose connection on two small Screws holding the fuse element in place ) ( Use a spray Electrical contact cleaner, in the Ignition Switch and the Stop- Run Switch ) Find the Large White Plug with 3 #14 White wires comeing from Alternater, going to the Regulator, check it for damage, and High Resistance. with Engine running, at the Alternator Plug, Read the AC ( yes AC ) voltage to ground on each wire. ((( with plug connected, about 2000 RPM )) You should read 12 to 16 volts AC on Each Wire. If one of the three is substantually lower then the other two , you Alternater may need replacement (( For a good contact Cleaner, I reccomend CRC Brand, 2-26 spray on , you can get it a Home Depot, or Most large Home Electrical Supply Outlets, Use it on Every Electrical Disconnect plug you can get your hands on !!!! )
  22. GeorgeS
    It won't after the Anti Freez and broken parts get into the Oil !!
  23. GeorgeS
    Service Manual is on this Web site: Or go to Yamaha main web site, Order parts section, look at the IPC it should show the parts, and the proper Order. You best do this, to make sure you have everything thats supposed to be there. The way you describe the last guy work on this, I would be wondering if Everything is even there.
  24. GeorgeS
    The Early models had Plastic Impellers, they were changed to Metal. If you hear noise, its probably shattered, this was a common problem on the 83,85, not sure what year they changed to metal impeller. Parts to do a complete rebuild will run you About $85.00. Takes about 3 or 4 hours of work to rebuild the water pump. simply pull off the parts one at a time, and replace. You need about 7 or 8 Seals, and a new impeller, a new Pump seal, and a New Bearing. Look at the IPC, order every "Seal " shown on that page, plus the other parts.
  25. GeorgeS
    I always Said I love the Guy who Invented those things !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
×
×
  • Create New...