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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    When you pull out the Radio Panel, Check the quite small pins in the pull apart plug. Its very easy for one or more of these pins to get Bent, then they do not Insert correctly. I had this happen twice.
  2. GeorgeS
    Ok, what you said in your last post, is pretty much what I figured, after you listed what happened when you took it for the first ride. -- Sounds like they will put in New or at least different Carb diaphrams, complete take apart, and rebuild on the carbs, and also new Floats, and float valve's. --- And I hope the drain and clean the gas tank. and new fuel filter, and obviously a Carb Sync, or it would run like you know what. --- Anyway, If it Runs Reasonable well at all when you get it back, after thinking about, it, and if they don't charge you any Extra, !!! Well, you got about $300 bucks worth of parts, and maby 3 to 4 hundred worth of Retail labor thrown in. --- Any word yet from them, if they are going to charge you any Extra ?? I would hope not. So, you lost a week or so of rideing time, But maby you got the biggest problem on it fixed, for a not to bad price !! Hmmmm
  3. GeorgeS
    I have heard of folks useing them in small Airplanes also. They are Mil Spec, as I understand it they were developed for the Military. I have them on two bikes now, so far very happy with them. the Pc-680 when fully charged reads almost 13 volts. They are Dry, and can even be shipped UPS and Fed Ex because of no liquid acid. Check out their web site, and read up on the spec's. 3 times the cranking amps of a lead acid.
  4. GeorgeS
    Also, drain the gas tank at the petcock. Nobody ever burns the last gallon of gas, who knows whats in the bottom of your tank. Drain all 4 carb bowls, drain the tank, and run the sea foam. Give it a few days to work its magic. Deffinatly a sticking float valve. Also, put some HEET in the, gas to get water out of the fuel system.
  5. GeorgeS
    Hells Canyon, In the N.E. Corner if Oregon. If you happen to be in the Area. It worth a days ride, out of Baker City, Oregon or from La Grande, Oregon. --- check this web site if of interest http://www.hellscanyonbyway.com/Map/map.htm Overnite in one of the above towns, and spend a day rideing the area. Not a lot of folks across the country even know this place Exists !! Canyon deeper then the Grand Canyon, though no where near as wide or long. Great Hunting and fishing area also. Also, a great old train ride
  6. GeorgeS
    you might have to pump fluid in from the cylinder up to the Master. However, you might have to rebuild your Clutch Slave cylinder, and the master. On the slave, its probably better to just get a new one instead of a rebuild kit.
  7. GeorgeS
    Have you pulled out the Clutch Slave Cylinder ?? If your 87 is over 50K and this item has never been changed or rebuilt, this might be the problem.
  8. GeorgeS
    you changed the plates, did you put in New Springs ??
  9. GeorgeS
    OK, what exactly did you change, since the last time it was OK ? Just the helmet headsets ?? Or something else.
  10. GeorgeS
    OK, clean the kick stand switch, with wd-40 blow out with compressed air, and the re lubricate the switch with some light oil. It might stick again, Also, there is a plug the wires from the switch go to , agout 10 inches from the switch, follow the wires, and clean the plug contacts.
  11. GeorgeS
    The sensor unit, Stock, installation can only be used with the old Standard Lead Acid, battery, With the 6 Screw Off Caps. If you are going to stay with Lead Acid Battery, get one with Caps, SO THAT YOU CAN ADD DISTILLED WATER AT LEAST EVERY 30 DAYS. ---- CHECK IT ANYWAY THAT OFTEN --- If you use a " Sealed Lead Acid" , then you have to do the " Battery sensor modification " Whats that ?? ----- Cut off the Sensor, replace it with a 2,200 ohm, 1 watt resistor, cover it with Shrink tubeing, and hook it to the " Br " wire that sends voltage to the left side of the Fuse holder. The resistor drops the voltage to about 4 volts, that goes to the computer monitor unit. ----- DO NOT HOOK THE SENSOR DIRECTLY TO 12 VOLTS WITHOUT INSTALLING THE RESISTOR, ---- YOU WILL FRY THE MONITOR COMPUTER IF YOU DO THIS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hook a Voltmeter to your Battery with Engine running ( a real volt/ohm meter digital type ) ( SPEND $40 AND buy a meter ) and measure your charging voltage. I strongly suspect that you have a BAD Stator!! If the charging voltage is Below 12.75 volts, then your Stator is Failing. It should read at least above 13 volts DC on the Battery + terminal. The way to check the Stator, is at the large white plug, left side, under side cover, with 3 #14 " white " wires going thru it. With plug connected, stick meter probes into plug, read wire to wire ON the AC Scale ( yes AC NOT DC ) you should read 12 to 16 volts AC on any combination of the three wires. Also, read Each wire to Ground, you should read 12 to 16 volts, AC on each of the three wires to ground. The Service Manual Stator Check proceedure says to take Resistance reading thru the 3 legs of the Stator. THIS CHECK WILL NOT TELL YOU IF YOUR STATOR IS GOOD OR BAD !!!!!!!!!!!!!! I know, I have been there. ----------- IF ONE OF THE THREE IS SUBSTANTIALLY ( 6 to 8 volts ) LOWER THEN THE OTHER TWO, THEN YOUR STATOR HAS FAILED, AND THAT IS WHY YOUR BATTERY IS NOT BEING CHARGED !!!!!!!!!!!!!! THIS IS NOT DEBATABLE !!! It simply a fact. One more item ! These new batteries you have been buying, Have you Charged them with a Real Battery Charger, NOT A TRICKLE CHARGER !!!!!!!!!!!!! A trickle charger, DOES NOT CHARGE A BATTERY THAT IS BELOW 50 PERCENT CHARGED, It will only keep a fully charged battery At full Charge!! A battery charger, and a Trickle charger, are TWO different things. When you buy a NEW Lead Acid Motorcycle battery you should charge it at about a 2 AMP rate, for about 6 to 10 hours, to get to 100 percent charged, I DON'T CARE WHAT THE GUY AT THE STORE WHO SOLD THE BATTERY TOLD YOU , JUST ADDING THE ELECTROLITE TO A NEW DRY BATTERY, DOES NOT CHARGE A BATTERY TO 100 PERCENT. So if your stator is weak, like a suspect, you have never gotten any one of your new batteries to full charge state , UNLESS you Charged them with a Real Charger !!! How many miles on your bike?? And do you know if the Stator has ever been replaced???? If the Stator is bad, then buying another battery is just Money down the Drain !!! I strongly suspect that your Stator IS BAD !!! based on the history of your battery problems.
  12. GeorgeS
    Next item to address: Is why did the 40 amp fuse blow ?? Do you know?? If it blows again, you should start looking for an Intermittant Short to ground. That could get nasty.
  13. GeorgeS
    look at photo's on 1st gen tech library, fork seal replacement Scroll down
  14. GeorgeS
    Couple of other items you might check. With + Battery cable disconnected check for excessive resistance accross the main 40 amp fuse. ( two small screws hold the fuse element in place, they are know to come loose ) Also check for resistance thru the Ignition Sw, On-Off contacts that send voltage to the Br wire to the left side of the " Ing fuse. " check your fuse Holder for makeing good contact to the fuse. High resistance at any of these points will drop the voltage to the Ing coil Primary windings. One more item, Check for high Resistance Across the Red, " Run - Stop " switch on the right handle bar. They have been know to become high resistance, and OR Intermittant .
  15. GeorgeS
    Go to auto parts store, get a 12 V Accessory Relay. Use the original wireing to Pull the Relay, Rewire the Horn with #16 wire from 12V source, with an In-Line fuse, to the new relay, and from relay to Horn, and add a Ground wire from Horm barcket to a good ground. !!! You might want to switch to Volvo Horns !! Anything is better then the Beep Beep Stock horns !!! the Original wireing to the Horns is too small a diameter wire, And all the current for sound the Horns runs thru the Switch, Not good. The New relay should have a schematic showing how to hook it up.
  16. GeorgeS
    A few more item's, Use Electrical contact cleaner on the TCI Plug Pins. Drain the fuel tank, might be some water bottom of tank. Run some HEET in the gas. Drain, all four Carb Bowls, each one has a drain hose, and Phillips head screw to open the drain. Also, run Sea-Foam in the fuel a couple of tanks. Have you ever worked on your plug wires?? Screw them out from each Ing coil, and Trim off about 1/4 inch, also do this on each plug cap. Maby bad connect here.
  17. GeorgeS
    Just duplicate whats in the Kit with high quality tools. Be sure to get 6 pt sockets, not 12 point. And Metric Allen wrench's Also at some point you will need a large torque Wrench ( 100 ft. lb. ) keep an eye out for one at a garage sale.
  18. GeorgeS
    The black rubber intake manifolds have an O-Ring where they bolt onto the Heads. Also, the Clamps that hold the Carbs to the intake ports are very light metal, and Stretch with time. Also I have had the Rt. Forward intake manifold " Crack " and you could hear it " sucking " I noticed this sound a 70 MPH on I-5 half way between Eugene Ore, and Portland on return trip from Los Angeles. ( Just threw that in for Effect !! ) Anyway after you get the fuel tank cleaned, out, and the carbs cleaned, be sure you don't have any Intake leaks between carbs and Intake valves. Also, the Rubber Caps, that cover, and seal the Vaccume test port on each Intake manifold, may look good, but pull them off and check for cracks and rotten rubber. You might be driveing with a Hole in the Intake manifold !! Just recently, sombody said he found a couple of these rubber caps that was leaking . This would lower the Intake Vaccume pressure. Just something to check
  19. GeorgeS
    I just installed a relay to the stock horns, and used #16 wire for the main power to the horns, Difference was amazing, even with the Stock horns. ( Beep Beep ) much more Beep !!!
  20. GeorgeS
    There are Two problems with the Stock Horn Installation: 1. There is No Horn Relay Installed ! 2. The wireing thru the switch and to the two horn units is done with wire size that is to small. Just not enough current flow to the stock horn, which are pittyfull, even if they did get enough current. Fix. Buy a Relay at most any auto parts store, Use switch to control the relay which sends current to horn Bottom line. Install a Relay, when you install the new horns !!!
  21. GeorgeS
    Turn volume UP on Handle bar control, Set Volume to Max on main panel, Push Earphone/Speaker switch, for Speaker, Radio should work.
  22. GeorgeS
    Douse the switch with Contact Cleaner!!
  23. GeorgeS
    Have you been useing Sea Foam. ?? Did you drain the bowls ?? Also, you might Drain the Gas tank, and run some HEET, just in case water in gas tank. Give it some run time with sea foam, then Re Try the Sync proceedure. I have read where some folks have had problems with the Intake manifold gaskets, makeing a good seal. One guy said he puts Sealant on them. I don't know if I would do that, but check the Clamps holding the Carbs to the Manifolds for leaks, and the bolts holding the manifolds to the Engine intake ports.
  24. GeorgeS
    you said they hauled it back to the dealer. Any word yet ?? Sea-Foam is a fuel Additive, available most auto parts places. We all use it, very good fuel system cleaner, also Valvoline Synthetic fuel Injector cleaner is very good. Dealer is probably useing something like this on it.
  25. GeorgeS
    I'm not sure on this. But I think you have to order the parts Seperatly.
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