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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    There is a pull apart plug about 6 inches from the Pump. L/B ( blue-black wire ) and a black wire going to ground. Check here for voltage on the L/B wire with Ignition Switch OFF. There should not be any. ( If there is 12V here with the SW Off, then there has to be some crossed wires someplace. Also the Engine Stop Switch should remove voltage from the Pump. The Pump Runs until the carbs are full, and the float valves close. the pump sences the pressure increase, then An INternal Switch INSIDE Of the Fuel Pump Opens, and the Pump stops running. When the fuel level drops in the carbs the switch in the pump closes, and pump Runs. I am thinking that your problem Is the FUEL PUMP ITSELF!!. The Internal Switch, might be bad. HOWEVER, this could Only happen if the Ignition Switch was left in the ON POsition!!! OR, the L/B wire to the pump, is Cross shorted to another wire that is Hot with 12 volts, with the SW OFF. Are you sure you did not leave the Switch ON ????????
  2. GeorgeS
    Rhncue has a good point. The Line from the Pump that goes to the 4 carbs, might have a Split in it. The pump runs till the pressure builds up ( I think 3 lb ) then shuts off. If there is a leak up line from the pump, it will just keep running as the pressure will never build up. Pull out the Air Box, and Check all the lines from the pump, goiing to top of the 4 carbs. You might find a split rubber hose somplace, Also, turn Off the Petcock, and Remove the line from the Petcock to the fuel filter, it might be leaking. Also, pull out the Fuel Filter, if is plastic, it could very easily have a crack in it. Also check the Hose from filter to the Pump. It could be Split. To sum this up. Pull out All the Hoses!! and examin them for leaks, before you tear into the Carbs. There are several rubber hose sections on top of the Carbs that could be leaking. One more thought: Remove the Right Side Passenger foot rest assembly, now useing a bright light, examine the Fuel Line going from the Petcock across, and under the bottom of the tank to the fuel filter on the left side of bike. The Hose has to Fit in a Clip which is welded to the bottom of the tank. Why?? If the Hose falls out of this clip, which holds it forward of the rear tire, it can move back and rub against the rotating tire, and that will wear a hole in it. However if this was the case you should see gas running out. But Just a thought.
  3. GeorgeS
    You can't see the bottom of the tank thru the filler cap! There is no way 5 gallons of gas can escape without seeing it!! Put bike on center stand, pour in a gallon, if the tank is leaking you will see it somplace. I have heard of one guy that the bottom of his tank rusted out. But only one. Also, turn key to " ON" position so the fuel pump runs, if any hose is leaking, then the pump will force it thru the Leak, and you should see it.
  4. GeorgeS
    Go to Yamaha IPC on line, and cross refference the part numbers.
  5. GeorgeS
    I guess A V-Max Intake setup would be the answer. Or, I think a V-Max Rear Drive unit is geared a little lower.
  6. GeorgeS
    There is a direct replacement at auto parts stores, I forgot exactly the number, but sombody will chime in with the number. Fits some forign car. but it works.
  7. GeorgeS
    Order a new Rebuild seal kit, and maby a new piston for the Caliper, and a new set of brake pads. ( don't resuse the old ones ) Remove the caliper, and pump the brake lever till the piston pops out. Split the caliper, clean, and re assemble. Install the OLD Pads, while Bleeding with new fluid, ( use DOT - 4 of Valvoline Synthetic fluid ) After you get the assembly rebleed out and working , then Install your new set of Pads. ( Why?? you don't want to risk getting fluid on the New pads )) Also, Due to the Age of this bike, you might want to also consider rebuilding the master Cylinder. If its never been done, It needs to be rebuilt . --- If you have never done this job before, I would suggest finding sombody to help you do it.
  8. GeorgeS
    The Sensor itself, is shown on the Wireing Diagram as simply a " Variable Resistor " Others have said they found a Worn spot on it. If you find this on yours you would probably have to replace it. Or possible the Mechanical Linkage on the sendor unit is simple sticking at one point.
  9. GeorgeS
    Anything but a D404 !!!! I installed Avon's front and rear 2 months ago. I just went to garage and measured tread depth. Exactly 5000 miles on both tires. ( with in 50 miles ) Rear, 1/4 in, max tread depth, at deepest point Off Center. ------- and 3/16 tread depth at dead center of tire. I will estimate this tire should run at least 14K based on the wear I see on it now at 5K Front, I could not measure any the wear at dead center, now at 5000 miles. I am sure there is some, but I'm going to estimate the tire would go at least 18K on the front. ---- I did install a D-404 on CX-500, a 475 lb bike with a 35 HP motor. Ok for that bike, Try Southwest Moto, 140/90 HB 16--- 118.95 plus shipping for the Avon,
  10. GeorgeS
    Its not a big job to remove the fuel level sensor from the top of the tank. Pull it out, clean it etc etc, I have never done this but should not be hard to do. -- Also, you might have dirty or corroded electrical connections to the sensor, ( check the wireing at sensor under the rider seat ) There is a 4 wire Plug between the sensor, and the Monitor computer. Find this plug, and clean the pins. Might help. As a rull of thumb, I always Refill at 150 miles, --
  11. GeorgeS
    The 1st Gens have a Vent or call it breather line, just to right of filler cap. It has a restrictor installed where the hose connects to the tank. --- I don't know exactly what the 2nd gens have, but I assume something similiar. Take a look at the IPC, might show it. I have heard of these restrictors getting plugged, on the 1st gens. ------------------------------ I just looked at the IPC, the breather pipe comeing from just forward and a little right of filler cap runs down to a gizmo called, a " roll over valve " then to another hose, which I assume goes down to a drain position. Could be the roll over valve is pluged, just guessing here. Check, where the pipe connects to top of tank, remove it, and check for a restrictor, with a very small hole thru it. This might be pluged.
  12. GeorgeS
    The main thing is that the voltage on One of the three wires is not Substantialy lower then the other two. The actual voltage is not that important. They should all be within about 1/2 volt of each other. Some read around 6 volts each, others go to 10 or above.
  13. GeorgeS
    Ok, but take it easy, these bikes take some getting used too. As to driveing charecteristics. Ease into it !! Also, the linked brakeing system might take a little getting used to . Good luck !!
  14. GeorgeS
    Fuse, and connect to a Switched source, NOT DIRECT TO BATTERY !!!
  15. GeorgeS
    One more item: Check the choke linkage's, make sure all 4 carbs are going to full choke Off position.
  16. GeorgeS
    If you are going to keep a 2nd Gen for the Long Haul, then Invest in the " Morgan Carb Tune " Tool, It will save you money in the long run. Agee with the above posts, At 48 K You Need to do a Sync First, and then go from there. Do Not assume there are other problems Untill you do the Sync Proceedure. If you cannot get them to Sync Up, then you would assume there actually Is some Other Problem !! ( what you are doing here is matching up the Mechanical Linkage's) You will only have to adjust the Sync Screws about + or - 10 degrees of rotation !!!! NO MORE THEN A QUARTER TURN!!!!!!! Also, be Sure to find the Carb Bowl Drain Screws, and Drain the Bowls!!! You might have some bad stuff in the bowls. Open the drain screws, and turn key to " ON " and let the fuel pump run some gas threw them all. ( With the bike in a Fire Safe Area, and water hose Handy !!! )
  17. GeorgeS
    Also, when you have battery box out. find the Yellow 2 wire plugs ( 4 of them ) going to each Ing. coil, ( under battery box ) and pull apart, and clean these contacts also, as long as its opened up. Also, because of easy Access, Pull the plug wires out of each coil, and nip off about 1/4 inch of cable, and re screw them back into position, and replace the hold down collor. I also put some Silastic sealant on these to keep out moisture. Also, if you pull out the TCI to Dry it, when cover is off, resolder the pigtails from the Two plugs, where they connect to the circuit board, there might be some crystalized solder joints here. This is a fairly common problem.
  18. GeorgeS
    Run Several tanks of gas with 1/2 can Sea-Foam At 48,000 deffinatly time to replace the Plug Wires and Caps. And a new set of plugs if never replaced. ?? Maby a new Air Filter ?? And Deffinatly " Sync the Carbs " !!!!!!! Drain the Carb Bowls !! Drain the Gas Tank, just in case some water in the bottom of tank.
  19. GeorgeS
    Can sombody explaine to me why the 2nd gen clutch is makeing this noise, but the 1st Gens. do Not ??? Its basicly the same, engine, so what exactly is the difference in the Clutch Baskets. ?? Different, type of Metal ? Different, size,? Different Clutch plate material ?? I'm just fishing here, any thoughts ?? Anybody
  20. GeorgeS
    And you can add the SuperBrace cross member, this also give a little more improvement to the handling.
  21. GeorgeS
    Is it leaking from the Weep hole under the water pump? If so, you will probably have to rebuild the pump. Also, check the Overflow Lines at the top of the Small Overflow plastic tank, located in the Right hand Fairing. If leak is from up front of the engine , could be one of many hoses, or the radiator, or the Cover Cap on thermostate. ( cover is PVC plastic, if sombody overtorqued the two bolts, it might have been deformed ) I had this problem, I overtorqued it, had to get a new one. Also, there is a small line from bottom center of radiator, which is Only Press Fit into place. This is a fairly common leak point on 1st Gens. ( you can do a temp repair on this point with J/B Weld )
  22. GeorgeS
    My 89 does the same thing when I'm down in California. Its the 10 percent Ethenol they put in the Gas down there. At least I think it is. After the 2nd fill up in Calif, I always get the hesittion, a little off throttle, from about 70 mph. Never notice it in Oregon, and Washington. No ethenol in the gas up here.
  23. GeorgeS
    Deffinatly run the Sea foam for Several Tanks of fuel. Give it severall tanks and time to work. At least do this before you tear anything else apart. Have you pulled out the Carb Diaphrame and checked it for condx, and small holes. Pull that plug wire out, and Trim about 1/4 inch of copper wire off each end, and rescrew them back in. Both ends, at the Coil, and the plug cap. Possible high resistance contact here.
  24. GeorgeS
    Was going down gravel road in Minn. near my farm. Lots of loose gravel. I'm tooling along about 25, basicly just sight seeing. Passing a house in woods, close to road. I see a Big Guy getting out of his pick up truck and German Shepard following him out of the Truck. Anyway the Guy see's me comeing down the road, and I actually saw him Command the Dog to chase Me. !!! He used Hand Signals. Frankly at seeing this I was Amazed !! The guy must have been a motorcycle hater . The Dog takes off down the short drive after me as I pass the end of the drive way, me about 25 mph and the Dog Flat Out. So I slow down more, and let the Dog Catch up to about 25 feet behind me. Dog Owner now running down the drive way. Still commanding the Dog to Attack. I down shift to 2nd and floor board it. Gravel and stones Flying backwards hit the Dog Square in the Snout !! Dog, crashe's, head over heals, Owner witness's the entire episode, while Still commanding the dog to chase the motorcycle. Dog finally Stops, I come to a near stop, looking back at the guy, who is now Screaming at top of his lungs and curseing me !!! Anyway I get going, again, and to this day, I will never understand what that guy was thinking. I hated to do that to the dog, however, the guy asked for it. Needless to say, I never went down that road again. Anyway, thats, my dog/motorcycle story.
  25. GeorgeS
    You probably need a rebuild kit in the Master, and Replace the Slave cylinder. I opened my Master, at 50K on my 89, and the parts looked pretty Sad. even though it was still working. The Slave cyl. had corrosion on the inner surface. I insatlled a rebuild kit, but if I had to do it over, I would just Replace the Slave cylinder, ( about $30 ) ( rebuild kit about $15 )
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