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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    I found another superb, ride, Highway 199, from Crescent City, Calif which run's NE to Grants Pass, Or. About 90 miles. Then, from Grants Pass, go 15 Mi. S to Medford Or. From Medford, take the Scinic ride N up to Crater Lake, Volcano, and from there take Oregon 138 back to RoseBurg, Or. ( Do a Google on "Crater Lake" , or check it out at the Wikipedia site ) Or, if you are rideing in Oregon, Any state Highway that cross's E to W or W to E, crossing the Cascade Mt. Range, or, the Coastal Mt. Range is gurenteed to be a good ride. Any of these routes will be from 60 to 100 miles, of Twisties !!! And, you will not see any N.Carolina HWP !!
  2. GeorgeS
    After reading thru all the comments on this subject, all very good and applicable informtion. There is one more item, and that is the Actual "Entire Frame Design" of the motorcycle. We are useing a tubular frame on these type bikes, and they are similiar on most large toureing bikes. ( Welded tubes ) In my opinion, this is like stuffing a Grand Prix Race car engine into a 52 Chevy Bel Air !! If you have ever taken a serious look at the , now, Single one piece frames being used on Sport Bikes, and the Massive amount of metal used in the construction of these bikes. You have to take note of, why did they go to all this trouble? Ok, I know most folks on this web site are not big fans of Sport Bikes !! However, in one respect these modern Sport bikes are Far Superior to the average touring bike. !! And that is Frame Design !! As many of you know I own a Suziki Hyabusa. If you ever get a chance to Examine the Frame on one of these machines, you might think, Why did they go to all that trouble ?? The reason is exactly what is being discussed on the thread. Stability!!!!!!!! This bike will go into a head shake, But it will NOT happen until you Exceed 200 MPH. !!!!! Why?? Because of the Massive, Strength of the "One Piece" , Frame Casting, and added to that the Entire Engine adds strength to the entire Assembly. Also a big factor here is the " Inverted " front Fork assemblies. Also the Tube's are considerable larger in diameter. Also, the Triple Tree mounts, are made of larger castings. In my opinion, after haveing owened a Yam FJ-1200 and the GSX 1300R, is that the Front End design of the 1st Gen Venture, Is Lousey !!!!!!!!! Frankly, I do not feel safe, rideing my 1st Gen at anything over 85 MPH. For the Weight, and size of this motorcycle I consider the Front fork and triple tree to be, simple be Inadequate. The highest speed I have had the 1300 Suziki up to is about 120mph, and frankly the handlying is so good, you would not know your were going over 60 mph. ( I am not bragging about my driveing ability here ) This is simply a fact. Cruzing down a good highway on this thing, with a full face helmet, you hear nothing but wind noise, you do not feel the road, Its like flying 2 feet off the ground. It goes thru corners with Rock Solid Stability !! ( I am also referencing here to the 79 BMW R-100 I used to own and rode about 40K ) Believe me folks, until you have ridden a Modern Liter Class 1000CC Sport Bike, You don't know what good handling is !! I would also add, that the New Yam FJ-1300 and the new KAW 1400 Sport Touring bikes will also fall into this class for Good Handling.
  3. GeorgeS
    But Charge it with a Real Charger, NOT a battery tender. 2 Amps, for 8 to 10 hours
  4. GeorgeS
    First time I ever heard of this. I wonder if maby one cylinder quits fireing, at that RPM, maby a problem developing in the TCI, You might consider opening up the TCI and checking the solder connections. Might be one of the Diodes in there going bad. Might be due to moisture in the TCI. Try a new set of Plugs, make sure the plug wires have good electrical connection at the Coils, and the Plug caps. Screw out the wires, and nip off about 1/4 inch of wire and screw them back in. Clean Air Filter ??? I would Drain the Carb Bowls, might be a probem there. ??????????????????
  5. GeorgeS
    Did you try " Condors " method. Use Myti Vac, or a Syringe, and Pump fluid in from the Slave cylinder, up thru the line into the master resovoir. Pump it in very slowly, and watch bubbles come up thru the top. It helps to have two people work together on this
  6. GeorgeS
    12 V " to " the Venture Cruiz system, comes from the " Ignition Fuse " Apparently something in the Cruiz control system, was causeing a voltage drop ( or excessive load ) on that circuit. Probably dropped the voltage on that circuit, thus not high enough voltage to the TCI to keep fireing the Ignition system. This would have the same effect as the " Engine Stop " switch, being turned to the " Stop " position. See, page 7-135 of the service manual, for the Schematic of the Cruiz system, see the Input " E " power source to the cruiz " Power " switch, Check all the wireing cable Plug connectors going to the cruiz control switch, the cruixe control unit, and the Vacuum pump. Also, check the cable assembly that goes to the Instrument panel with the three light bulbs at the ignition switch. This cable could eaisly have become pinched, or shorted wire in that area, there is also a pull apart plug under that panel. Basicly, what I am saying, is, any dead short, or high resistance short of the 12v circuits in the Cruiz control system, will Remove Power from your TCI, which explains the fact that your engine Quit running.
  7. GeorgeS
    I don't think you have a Tire problem, related to the wobble. You said " Death Grip " I think you need to check the Torque Setting on your Steering Head, Fork Alignment, Fork fluid level, engine mounts, etc etc. You need to get this fixed, Its very dangerous !!!
  8. GeorgeS
    When the Hazard Switch is in the " OFF " position, it sends voltage to the section of the relay that runs the turn signals. This voltage has to go thru that switch, the "off" contacts, then thru a plug from the switch, and then to the turn signal relay. This circuit might be open or dirty high resistance connections. Follow the cable from the Hazard Switch to a an " Eight wire connector " open the up and clean contacts with CRC 2-26 Also, there will be a Black wire from the relay, that goes to ground thru the Plug to the relay. Make sure that wire actually has a good ground. Also, give the turn signal L R switch a good bath with CRC 2-26 electrical contact cleaner, and blow out with compressed air. Also, follow the cable from the turn signal " switch " to a 4 wire pull apart connector, open it, and clean contacts with contact cleaner. SEE, page 8-41 of service manual for the complete schematic.
  9. GeorgeS
    With all that recent rideing, it should not be dead, Unless the battery is " failing internally " Sounds like you just need a new battery. Give battery a good charging, let site overnite, and recheck the voltage without engine running. If it has dropped below 12V, its on its last leg. Get a new Odyessy, PC-680 ! and a Charger that will charge at a constant 2 to 6 Amp rate.
  10. GeorgeS
    Most of the time a few dose's of Sea-Foam, and a New Set of Diaphrams, drain the bowls, and set the float levels, and resetting the idle mix adjust screws, to 2 1/4 turns open, will fix them up. And a Sync job, Usually does it.
  11. GeorgeS
    The Idle adjust needle jets, Correct setting, is bottom them out ( carfully not to damage needles ) and open them 2 1/4 to 2 1/8 turn CCW. ( this is the agreed upon correct setting, info is NOT in the Service Manual ) The Three, Sync screws, when you get a sync tool hooked up, should adjust ( balance out ) on all three of them with no more then 1/4 turn on any one screw, unless sombody really messed them up. Best to do a Sync, and go from there. These engines run bad, if the Mechanical Linkage's are not in Sync. Leave the Air Box, in Stock configuration untill you get it running right. Also a note: $200 for the carb diaphrams is a bargain, they retail for about $120 list price. Remember these rubber diaphrams are almost 20 years old on you bike !! Rubber, don't last forever.
  12. GeorgeS
    Well, based on many stories of common problems: Possible bad connection on one of the plug wires. Remove each plug cap one at a time and check for RPM drop at idle speed. If so, check plug wire on the plug cap for that cylinder, and replace that plug. Possibly one of the Ignition coils is going bad. Run 1/2 can of Sea-Foam per tank for a couple of tanks. You might Drain all 4 carb bowls, might be foriegn matter in one of the bowls. Check the overflow hoses, from each carb, that run down behind the muffler crossover canister. One of them might be plugged with road debrie, I have heard of this happening. This will block air bleed to that carb Possible bad or dirty , corroded, connections on the Two Plugs that plug into the TCI. Possible, high resistance across the 40 Amp Main fuse, or across the ON-OFF contacts in the Ignition Switch, get some contact cleaner at radio shack, spray can, and give the switch a bath, and blow out with compressed air. (( If high resistance at any of these two points, it will lower the voltage to the Ignition Coil Primary windings ))
  13. GeorgeS
    All the parts you need are shown in the maintenance section that " Freebird " posted. I only added the photo's after I did the job, and Freebird added them to the Original article. IPC. For the IPC go to Yamaha official web site, http://www.starmotorcycles.com/ click on " parts and service" upper center. click on ' view parts catalog, proceed to parts catalog, then type in your model and year. Complete parts catalog with parts break down is there. Almost all dealers will have access to this on their web site's so you can order the parts.
  14. GeorgeS
    Do you have a service manual ?? If not download it, and print out page 7-1 and 7-2 Also, 8-40 and 8-42 ( this one shows all the Plugs in the system. ) Any chance , the plug going to the Flasher unit is disconnected ? I would take apart and reinstall a couple times, the plug to flasher unit, AND the Haz Switch, AND the big 13 pin plug under the Pasenger seat Also, follow the 4 wire bundle, from the Turn Sign Switch on left side, and follow it to the 4 wire plug, clean and reinstall this plug a couple times. ( located behind the headlight someplace )
  15. GeorgeS
    This is a long shot, however it is possible for a bulb to be shorted out internally. Extremely rare though. ( one of the flasher bulbs that is.). You might try replaceing all 4 of the flasher bulbs, a long shot, but I would try it. At the plug to the flasher unit, tug lightly on each of the wires going into the plug, one of them might pull out of the crimp on to the internall connecter. ( another rare occurence, bad or corroded wire in the crimp ) also, you can take a single " blade " type connector, ( same as on the flasher unit ) and feel the contact in the female side of the connector, make sure you feel resistance on each of them. Also the black wire going to this plug, is ground, use ohm meter, make sure the wire actually is getting a good ground. I would also, pull the plug for the cable going to the Haz Sw, and do resistance check across the contacts. make sure this switch is actually good. However, its beginning to sound like your flasher unit might be bad. but eleiminate all else first, as these things are expensive. Sombody on the web site may have a used one for sale from a bike being parted out.
  16. GeorgeS
    My bike is an 89, new in 93. My title reads 93, but date of mfg. is 89. Check the Data plate under the clutch, for the year of mfg. OK, on mine, the rear Ambers, are Only Turn sig flasher's. ( 1156 single filament bulbs ) No marker lights on the rear of bike. The front, is two filament 1157 bulbs, marker lights, and flashers. The photo you sent is the flasher unit. When the Hazard SW is On, you get 4 way flashers When the Hazard SW is OFF, it sends power to the part of the flasher that works the turn signals. ( If this wire circuit from haz sw to the flasher unit were bad, or OPEN, the turn signals would not work ) IF---- the Hazard switch, is sitting half way between Off and ON then Nothing will work, 4 way, or the Turn Signals. OK with that in mind, " From" the Hazard switch follow the Cable of 8 wires that go to it. You will come to a Pull Apart Plug, You might have bad connections in this plug. ( should be located behind headlight assembly ) Also, inspect the wire bundle as you go and look for damage to the wires. As to half way between Off and ON of the Hazard sw, I just went down to my 89 to prove this.
  17. GeorgeS
    There are two Brake Fluid level sensors, front and rear system. From the Schematic, it shows black wire from ground goes to rear unit, from there a W/B wire runs to the Front unit, from there a W/B wire runs to the 14 pin plug on the computer monitor unit. ( the larger of the two plugs on the computer monitor unit ) So, it appears that when the fluid level is high enough, the sensor, makes contact in the rear unit, this ground connect is fed to the fwd brake master cyl, and this switch cloes's and sends the ground signal to the W/B wire going into the 14 pin plug at the cmu. So, the easy way to bypass it would be apply a ground wire to one of the two W/B wires comeing out of the front master cylinder, level sensor switch. There is a plastic sheath that the two wires run inside of comeing out of the Fwd Resovoir, Each wire has a pull apart connector located someplace between the resovoir, and the input plug of the CMU. Just where its located, I don't know, so follow the sheath, find the connectors, You could apply a ground here, OR, your problem might be that the Pull Apart connector, Has been disconnected for some unknown reason !! ( I would suspect gremlins !!! ) or something like that.
  18. GeorgeS
    Would be the Large connector, located under the passenger portion of the Seat, on the left side. There are about 13 wires going thru this connector. The " B " black wire is the Ground for all the Rear Lights, Open the Plug, and with ohm meter, read resistance to ground looking into the fwd side of connector, then reconnect it, and stick ohm meter probe into the back side of the rear half of the connector, and make sure you read Zero Ohms, ( Ground ) there. This wire provides ground to All the Rear Light bulbs. If you loost this ground thru this connector, all rear bulbs will be out. A single black wire runs from each bulb holder, and at some point they all " SPLICE " into One black wire, which goes to the back section of the 13 pin plug. Also, on the plug, tug on the black wire front and back of the connector, to make sure the wire does not pull out of the " crimp" to the Pins inside the connector. If it pulls out, you will have to repair the plug, OR, Simply Bypass the ground wire around the Plug. This is what I would do. Its not easy to repair the pins in the plugs. Hope this helps. n7uy@comcast.net
  19. GeorgeS
    Does everything else work OK, ?? If so, the two brake lights are not going to cause a voltage drop like that. Possible a high resistance connection in the brake light circuit. But change the bulbs first, bulbs can go to a high resistance state before the burn out. Check the bulb holders for corrosion, maby some moisture got in there. This is a Strange one
  20. GeorgeS
    Im not sure on the 84's. Anti dive on later models, is different. Check with " Condor " he should know all about your anti dive set up.
  21. GeorgeS
    About all you can do is mount a Seperate AM/FM Antenna for the Radio. Use the CB antenna only for the CB, presently there is a unit called a " Duplexer " that splits the signal ( for lack of a better term ) to feed the CB and receive signal for the AM/FM ( this is a comprimise, at best for AM reception ) Even if you were to install better CB antenna, you would still have marginal AM About all you can do is purchace a high quality Automobile AM antenna and mount it in a seperate location. These antenna's come with cable attached, ( It is not RG-58/u coax as used for the Cb antenna. Its a special cable ) Do, not cut the cable that comes with the antenna, or it will not work right. You must install what comes with the antenna. It will have whats known as an " RCA " plug, this is the type of connecter on your AM/FM. A car antenna should give resonable results. However, Without haveing all the Metal, of a car body, its not going to function as well, as if mounted on a car. There are some small dipole type replacement auto antennas for mounting inside of windshields, sold in most autoparts store's. some have an amplifier built in. ( this has a seperate wire that hooks to 12V) I was thinking of trying this myself, and mounting it in the top of th Trunk lid. ( cost about $20 ) I simply put a Short ( 13 inch ) auto replacement and mounted inside the trunk. It works, but not very good for AM , considerable worse then the Stock set up. Seems OK on FM though
  22. GeorgeS
    Spray Can, It Chemically Cleans, Displace's Moisture, and enhances Electrical conductivity. Great Stuff!! I used it on All electrical connections on Aircraft for 34 years. Also Used in in the Aircraft Instrument Overhaul shop. Get it at Home Depot, or Lowes
  23. GeorgeS
    Have you checked the setting of the Idle mixture needle jets ? Also, if you are going to keep rideing this bike, a carb sync tool is a very good investment. There are 3 sync screws, one on left, two on right side. If anybody has been haveing a field day with these adjustments, and not useing the correct tool, ???? I have never moved mine more then about + or - 10 degrees of rotation. ( use that as a ref: point )
  24. GeorgeS
    Take a close look at the Fork Seals, If the seal is leaking the Fork oil will run down onto the Brake pads. This happened on my 89. Only fix for this is to replace the fork seals. I'm not familiar with the anti dive set up on the 83 and 84 models. If its fork fluid, you should only have to replace the pads. and re bleed the brakes.
  25. GeorgeS
    No reason you could not Install another Relay, Rewire the Brake light filaments to receive power only from the new Relay. Wire the Front , and back brake light switch's to control the Relay. Its a " Y " color wire, according to my Service Manual, that takes the power to the Inst Panel, from the two switch's. And output from the Inst panel going to the Rear bulbs, is Y/B "Yellow/Black " and L/W " Blue/White " . You can use a volt meter at the bulbs to Identify which is the Tail, and Brake light at the bulbs. However, as the other fellow said, you could open up the Inst panel and do some resoldering, use a 10Watt pen iron and rosin core solder. If you don't have schematics, the Service Manual is downloadable from this web site, Check in the maintenance section.
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