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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    This all backs up my theory that we should buy and install rear tires that last longer then 8k. Half as many hours of dealer labor charges, if you hire the job done. Half as much sales tax Or half as much time if you do the job yourself.
  2. GeorgeS
    Well I would start with Draining the Tank, and all 4 carb bowls. Let the pump run gas thru the bowls with the bown drain screws open, ( outside, with water hose handy ) Maby fuel filter ?? Run 3 or 4 tanks with Sea-Foam, then Re assess the situation:
  3. GeorgeS
    Well, might be a Start Solinoid going bad. Check the Two large Nuts on top of the Start Solinoid, for being tight. Starters themselv's never seem to fail. Clean both ends of the Red and Black Battery cables, you might have corroded Studs on one of the cables. ( If you find corrosion, especially right at the Starter connection ) us a propane torch and resolder the Studs. Be sure to remove the Bolt where the Neg cable connect to Rt. Fwd corner of the engine block, and clean it up. Use some CRC 2-26 on the Starter switch, it might be going intermittant. Also, your Side Stand Switch might be going bad, or intermittant. Could also be the Shift position Indicator switch. Also, your Stop-Run Switch might be going Intermittant, give it a bath with CRC 2-26. See, Block Diagram on page 7-11 of Service manual. Read thru the " Start Circuit Operation " section on page 7-11
  4. GeorgeS
    I think I would insist they remove the Swing Arm, and Rear Shock and check over everything. Maby missalignment there. Bad swing arm bearings, missing bushing , washer, or something like that? Seems like sombody said something about some part in the rear end not being installed properly. ?? Not sure what it was, maby a bushing. How about your wheel ?? Any chance the problem is in the wheel hub and thats messing up the drive unit ?
  5. GeorgeS
    ?????
  6. GeorgeS
    Cut a cross section out of the old tire, and post a close up. I would like to see how much rubber is left after the tread worn off !! Thanks !!
  7. GeorgeS
    Close ups of the Speedo Red pen shows where you need to apply some light lubricant
  8. GeorgeS
    I shoot greese into them with a Needle Tip, fitting added to my greese gun. Even though they are Sealed bearings, you can shoot greese into them with the needle attachment. Avialable at most auto parts stores. I changed my bearings last winter, at 57K. Carefull check of originals I only found a Slight bit of resistance on one bearings. I would say, check them carefully, if you cant feel any resistance, then just greese them.
  9. GeorgeS
    As long as you got the Dash out, good time to Replace all the little dash light bulbs, I think there 6 of them. Also, on one of the Boards there are some diodes, do a resolder job on these, They are notorious for causing False Warning lights to come on. My head light warning has started blinking, I will have to do this myself.
  10. GeorgeS
    Sounds like you need to Replace the Fluid, bleed the system. Simply Bleed it like a brake caliper. This might fix your problem, but on an 86, due to age, you might have to Rebuild the Master Cylinder at the Handlebar, and Replace the Slave cylinder. There are articles in the maintenance section on this. Try bleeding, and replaceing all the fluid, ( Use Dot 3 or 4 fluid, or Valvoline Synthetic fluid ) This might get you another season and quick fix. However I would be ordering parts. Rebuild kit for Master, and a New Slave Cylinder. ( Slave cylinder is about $35 and rebuild kit for Slave is about $15 ) However, its best to get a new one. Also, consider changing the Rubber hose sections of the clutch hydralic system, due to Age of the Rubber Hose.
  11. GeorgeS
    Just pull the cable out the bottom of sheath, and apply greese the entire length. If you follow the sheath up behind the light assembly, you can remove it with a long nose pliers. If you do not remove the Inst panel, you can squirt some light lube oil where the inner cable slides into the speedo assembly.
  12. GeorgeS
    Electronic unit, hooked to #2 Carb Vaccume port. Sends advance signal to the TCI. Follow the vaccume line, its aboven and fwd of the lft fwd Carb. As to the Sync screws, (( see page 2-12 of servce manual on this web site , maint section )) The left side matches the #1 to the #2 which is the master. ( #1 aft lft cyl, #2 rwd lft cyl, ) Cross over rod matches the rt side to the left. side. ( fwd screw on right side ) The aft screw on rt side matches the aft rt carb . to the fwd right. If you moved any of the screws, more then about 20 degrees of rotation, then they are screwed up. If you use the main idle adjust ( nurled knob left side, under the fwd carb ) to set idle to about 800 rpm. Then. Start the sync by adjusting rt, rear screw, for Increase in rpm. then Adjust rt, fwd screw, for increse in rpm. Then adjust the left side sync screw for increase in rpm. You will find the Most Error, in setting of rt rear, then rt fwd, then go to the left side. These are all mechanical adjustments of the mechanical linkage's between the 4 carbs. You can also use an accurate vaccume gauge if you have one. simple hook to each vaccume port one at a time as you adjust. Adjust for the same amount of vaccume pressure. ( go to the On line service manual on this wib site, see page 2-12 for a very detailed diagram of the throttle Linkage assembly , print this out if you do not have a service manual. Its a big help ) PLUG WIRES, Just get solid core copper stock plug wire at most any auto parts store. Most carry the stuff in bulk. Call around. The wire screws out of the Ing coils, and plug caps, very easy to replace. One other comment, you can just screw out the old wires, and Trim Off about 1/4 inch on both ends, and reinstall, just to make sure you have good contact at both ends of each wire. This is easy to do.
  13. GeorgeS
    Also, squirt the cleaner into the Hazard SW. It must make good contact in the " OFF " position. This sends power to the Turn Signal circuits.
  14. GeorgeS
    Don't Ever do that again !!!!!!! Bye the way, could you cut a section out of the Old tire, and post a good close up of the tread thickness ?? Is that a D-404 ???
  15. GeorgeS
    Yes, forget the Cassett player, go with an I-pod. I'm about ready to tear out my Cassett player, I fix it, over an over and only seems to last about one day on the road and its toast again. I'm going to start looking for the Highest quality AM FM Tuner, with fairly high powered amp I can find. ( the stock amplifier, is onl 15 W per channell. ) I rigged up an I-pod device few months ago, works great, I wired it direct into the pull apart plug located just under the radio tuner. also, as to DIN Plugs, you can buy the plugs themselv's at radio shack, and fabricate your own cables. Not a big deal, all you need is a 10W soldering iron, and radio shack has lots of shielded cable to build whatever cableing you need.
  16. GeorgeS
    Best to Order from yamaha, on line, IPC. Most any dealer will supply mail order. There are some aftermarket kits, avialable on E-Bay
  17. GeorgeS
    Seal, Bearing, Impeller ( if you need it ) and everything that looks or smells like a " Seal " or " O-Ring " shown on the IPC page. Good time to replace the Thermostate, also, if its never been replaced.
  18. GeorgeS
    Mine started slipping at about 25K, I put in the Barnett, complete unit, and at 63K now. NO SLIP !!!! Very Satisfied.
  19. GeorgeS
    OK, as I understand it, you want to take the Intercom Audio, from the aftermarket Intercom system, and the Mic Key signal, and tap them into the other commercial CB radio. If this is correct: I would start by looking at getting the Key signal, and the audio output from the Intercom system, ( find these connections ) then you are going to have to tie them into the CB somhow. The Key signal ground signal to the CB should be easy. The Audio, After you tie into it from the intercom system, you will probably have to run it thru a Small Audio Isolation Transformer. ( you can get these at Radio Shack ) You will probably have to open the Cable from the CB to get access to the connection points. I would reccomend opening up the CB case, and find a point where you can solder New Wires, for a New cable you must fabricate, to get the Key signal, and audio input from Intercom onto the Mic, audio input point. ( with the inline audio transformer, {{ you might be able to find space in the cb unit to mount it. }} ) Also, do a Google search for CB Schematics, you might be able to find a schematic for your CB Radio. This would be a big help. You don't give much info, so I am shooting in the Dark Here .
  20. GeorgeS
    A 3/8 in, 3 ft. wooden dowel works good for pushing parts up thru tubes from bottom if the uppers are not removed. I used Federal Mogul main bearing assembly greese on all parts when re installing the new Seals. The Bushing , spread apart to slide them off. If installing seals from the bottom, check where the lower bushing fits in place, and make sure no sharp edges there to damage new Seals. I did some burnishing here with Dremel tool. It is advisable to Replace Both the upper, and lower bushings. Some guy had a dealer, do the job, they did not replace them, and the forks did not work correctly. At least thats what he said, on a posting. I installed the Progressive, springs, I did not Install the PVC spacers. Seemed like I had about 1 inch of compression without them. Remember, when you reinstall your Fluid, use about 1 oz less then the stock amount, due to the increased Diameter of the Progressive Springs. Those, Three Small Thin Stainless washers inside, at the bottom, Be sure they are reinstalled Correctly, The center one is different then the upper and lower one.
  21. GeorgeS
    Amazing Jack, I going to pull mine, as my head lite warning is come on, started doeing that on way back from Garberville last Fri. By the way, Hyway 199 from Crescent City to Grants Pass, is a great ride !!!
  22. GeorgeS
    Hmmm, I did not have a problem with that. With the new ones, I mean. Don't forget the little O-rings on the port under the diaphram cover.
  23. GeorgeS
    I have owned bikes that were no problem on gravel, my old 79 BMW, R-100 was case in point. Absolutly no problem rideing it on gravel, and dirt roads. With the 89 Venture, I simple avoid gravel roads, Its bad on gravel. Frankly, very scarey, in my opinion. However, I suppose one could learn to ride the thing on gravel, given lots of practice. ??
  24. GeorgeS
    Yes, #7 the clutch assy, and the 3 sets of wgts, spacers and springs. Also, I replaced the 3 bolts. #11. You may not need them, however might be best to replace them also. They are " Staked " into position from factory, so you may not be able to reuse them When you replace them, ( the bolts, #11 ) be sure to use Lock tite, and Re Stake them into position, after you re-torque them. I have also seen information that some folks have had to replace the 72 Tooth sproket, due to it being damaged, However mine was not damaged, and I reused the original.
  25. GeorgeS
    Well, Is not just One reason. Its the Entire design of the bike. Frame design, Front suspensioin design, and also Rear Suspension, wheel diameter, height, and length of wheel base. It all, figures into the handlying factor. The Front Fork design on the new Sports is way beyond touring bikes. Even the Rear Swing Arm of the busa is Very Impressive, Rear suspension also figures into the Stability Problem. I have always thought that if my Busa Only had a 60 HP Engine, it would Still be an Fantastic machine. Haveing said all this, The Venture is still a great Freeway cruizer, and does a good job on Twisties, considering its size and weight. But, Don't, think you are going to keep up with a sport bike on twistie roads, thats a recipie for Death. That front end will Kill you !!!
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