GeorgeS

Any chance the previous owner did some JET, size, modifications on this bike ?? Have you pull the Jets, and inspected the Number on the jets, and compare to the Parts fitch to make sure all 4 carbs have the " Stock Size " jets installed. Note: I believe the front carbs have different size jets, then the rear carbs. ----------------- Also, the Needle, on the diaphrams, I'm sure you checked for the Correct number of those little washers being installed on each Main Needle, on the diaphram assembly. ------------------ Are you absolutley sure all 4 Ignition Coils, are functioning properly ??? ------------------ After a Hard run, Have you pulled all 4 plugs, to determine if " ONE of them " looks any different then the other three ??? IF SO, maby a problem in that particular Carb ! ---------------

Might be the On/ Off contacts in the Ignition Switch. A common problem on these bikes. Did you check the RED Switch on handle bar. ?? Is is On, or is it OFF ??? We have all done this from time to time. Did you check for Loose connections on the battery. Did you Check the " Main Fuse " located left Side cover near the fuel pump !! Check battery voltage with voltmeter, but I don't think thats your problem . List what you find.

You must still look " Young " as they say !!! :cool10:

I have an Oddessy AGM thats been in service 7 years and still going strong. Another Oddessy PC-45 on my Busa, thats 8 years and still going strong. The 89 1st gen I sold to the guy down the street, has 2 DEKA"s in it that are going on 5 years now, talked to him last month, they are still doing fine !! :cool10:

Did you get one of the AGM's made in China ??? I made that mistake for battery for the CX-500. Only lasted about 10 Month. Replaced with a DEKA , AGM.

Ahhh No !! can't remember that one . As long as I can still ride, it don't matter !!

18 years on the 89, now sold, (90K ) 2 rideing seasons on the new 08, ( 19K ) So, an even 20 years of Venturing!!

Ok, I did not know about this mod, what are the details on this ?? what year stratoliner, wheel, ? where do you get them, what do they cost, and how much trouble to do the switch ?? Probably won't do the switch, But--- you can never have to much good information !!

If you decide on an RSTD, shop around a few states, different dealers. You might still find a left over 2 to 4 year old model, for a big discount !! Shoot for 13.5K to 14K, for a new, left over if you can find one. Then add your own accessories, much cheaper then buying a new RSV for 20K plus. Especially if you ride Solo ! You pay a lot extra, for the fairing, radio, sound system and trunk. And a little bit bigger fuel tank. Its the same basic, machine, without all the accessories. For solo, pull the pass seat and add a luggage rack. For a storage luggage bag. Yamaha also sells an bolt on luggage rack for the back side of the Sissy Bar, for more storage space. There are also, wider, and higher aftermarket windshields avialable for the RSTD if you want more wind protection. I have one of these, and love it. Also, aftermarket much more comfortable Solo Seats, and double seats are avialable to replace the stock seats. I ride Solo, and my RSTD is set up for Solo rideing . Also, look for a Low milage, 06 to 2010 RSTD, if you decide on that style. Half the price of a new RSV 10,000 miles on these bikes is " Just Broke In " !!

Up early this morning, News, reports, from Phillapines, death toll from the typhoon is now up to about 10,000 !! And, I thought I had a few problems ??

As I remember, when I removed to old seal, it came off in Several pieces. Be sure you have ALL of the old one removed from the shaft.

Working on my son's, 1982 - CX-500 Honda last month, ran into some spark plug problems. I found this web site with information as to " Removeing " the RESISTOR, mounted inside the Plug cap. I also found that One of the caps also Had and " OPEN Circuit " Inside, TOP of the Cap Assembly, and I had to Replace the cap, ( In addition to removeing the resistor ) To check this, remove the internal parts, stick rod up into assembly, to check the resistance thru the " Top " of the plug cap. One of my Honda caps, had an open circuit in top of the assembly. Anyway, for anybody who might be interested. Go to this link, for information, on " Modifying " your plug caps if you want to remove the resistor, in your spark plug, caps. (( complete with pictures, and Modificaiton information )) Our " Venture " plug caps are basicly Identical to these HONDA Caps. http://globalcxglvtwins.forumlaunch.net/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=84 Note: This information is from Site, referencing Honda, CX-500 bikes, but our plug caps are basicly the same thing.

Don't rub it in :depressed: :depressed: ( its cold in Seattle )

That one is " newer " then my " OLD ONE " I found that on " Bad Bits " you need to run them thru the complete process 2 or 3 times, ie: repeat the " Alignment " more then once. I have also been useing the Maximum ( + ) " Relief " setting. Some folks, can sharpen them on a simple grinding wheel, but I never could get them correct with that simple method. Anyway, I'm a happy camper now !!!

OK, we all have lots of Chewed up, dull Drill bits!! ----And, New, good ones are expensive !! I have an " old model " Drill Doctor drill bit sharpener, bought about 10 years ago on E-Bay. It works, to a degree, but I never had much luck doing a good job of sharpening chewed up, old bits. It makes them " Look Good " but they just don't work like a "New, Expensive drill bit" . I have lots of High Quality, Cobalt Bits, and they were ALL DULL!!! This week I bought a New Model, " Drill Doctor " Much Improved in design from the Older one I have. ( $78.00 plus tax at Lowes ) Long story short --- This thing Works !!!!!!!!! The OLD MODEL, did not !! Over the last two days, I sharpened about 150 of my Old, Chewed Up, drill bits, of all size's, and they NOW WORK !! If you have the old model, Drill Doctor, and were not happy with it, try the New Model!! At this point, I use the old one to get a Bit, looking good, and then run it thru the NEW Unit, and WA LA, !! Cuts thru steel like butter !! If you buy one--- Be sure to read the Instruction's that came with it !! ( Then read them again !! ) :cool10: :) P.S. Practice, makes perfect !! in this case ----

I thought the 83, and 84's had Longer cables, with no junction box ??? For some reason, but can't remember why--- Hmmmm Check the parts Fitch for 83 and 84.

I have had 5 of them. If they said you need it, really no other optionn other then looseing the tooth sooner or later. If it gets infected, later, then lots of trouble. As far as pain, if its done correct, its no big deal, other then its a fairly long proceedure as far as time spent in the chair. Never had much pain after they were done.

YES, on three cylinders, you will not even realize that one cylinder is not fireing, untill you pull out onto an Open road, and try to accellerate past about 50 MPH. Just driveing around town, you will not notice it. I did this once on my 89, was working on it, and left one plug wire disconnected, I was 5 miles down the road, and did not notice it untill I tried to accellerate thru about 50 MPH. Assumeing, No other problems, that is !!

Maby I missed something, but are you sure that your Carb Linkage is " Synced" properly ??? Also, Does your " Pull " throttle cable, have some " Slack " before the mechanical linkage starts to move, ??? ((( IF not, you need to do a RE-Sync !! ))) Have you carefully inspected, the Intake Manifold Rubber section for cracks, and leaks !! ( Intake leaks ) Have you done a " resistance check " of the Plug caps ?? Have you removed the plug wire from that cylinder, and nipped off 1/4 inch, then Re-Installed the 7MM plug wire, At the Coil, and at the Plug cap ?? Possible a " sticking " float valve -- ?? Intake Air Leaks ??? Have you checked the intake manifold mounting bolts, ??? or possible a Leaking O-Ring where the manifolds are bolted to the heads. There have been reports, that even after replacing the O-Rings, still leaking, and adding a sealant to the O-Rings was required to stop the " Intake Leak " !! Have you checked the Intake stacks on top of carbs, to make sure the Alignment , Marks, are in the proper position. ??? Are your sure the Clamps, Above, and Below the carbs, are makeing a tight Intake seal ?? Have you done a " compression Check " ???? If you find nothing else, well, maby you have a badly leaking valve , or stuck ring. Not likley, but a possibility . Even if you are sure the Sync is OK, I would try, RE-Setting the Pull cable to 1/8 inch of free play. Reset, the Master Idle to " Just makeing contact " Reset all three Sync screws, to " Just makeing contact " NOW, Re-Do the SYNC proceedure with your --- Morgan Carb Tune ---- tool ( you do have one don't you ??? ) Do a resistance check of All 4 plug caps, make sure they all are the Same, I think its 5000 ohms, main thing is that they are all Same !! You can screw out the Copper fitting that the plug fits into, and Remove the Resistor, Spacer, and Spring. If you think you have a bad CAP. ( ie: you can dissasemble the plug caps, and inspect all the internal parts ) Also, after removeing the INERDS, Stick a rod up to the top, and do a resistance check thru the top of the plug cap. On a CX - 500 plug Cap, I found that the Wire in Top of the Cap, was OPEN CIRCUIT. !! This is not repairable, and plug cap went into the trash can. -- Note: the 5000 ohm caps, can be modified to make them " Non - Resistor " Caps. Simply remove the Resistor, and replace with a section of 1/8 diam. brass rod. --- (( you still have 5000 ohms inside of the spark plugs. ))

I would try replaceing the plug with a new one, before ripping and tearing anything else. I just put a new one in a CX-500 last week, it failed two days later, replaced again, runs fine !!

NO!!! Don't do this :no-no-no:

IF-- your rideing and RSTD, and want to Use an AM / FM Radio, which you mount in a " Tank Bag " . ( As I have done ) You will need an antenna. Guess what ?? The Windshield Mounting Hardware, IS NOT Grounded. I stumbled on this realization one fine day. SO" I fabricated , a coaxial antenna cable from my tank bag FM radio, and hooked it up to the windshield mounting hardware, Wa La !!! Built in FM Radio Antenna. Of course, I added " quick disconnet " plugs, to remove tank bag when overniteing at a " Motel Six " !!!

I mounted a Relay, close to the fuse ( right side cover ) ( small 1 inch square automotive relay ) I mounted a switch on the cover. Relay, cuts power from the Fuse to the heater units. Buy, one relay, One toggle switch, drill hold in cover to mount switch. Switch ON, heaters On, switch OFF, and the Relay is OPEN Circuit, Heaters are OFF

Well, thats because the roads are so " Narrow " and the place is only about 1/3 the size of Texas !!

You bought the right bike !! Let's see, you got the seat changed, next you will need a new set of Dunlop E-3's !! Remove the air injection system. Be sure to lube the drive shaft. ( dealers don't do that ) If all they did was set the idle, you really should get a Morgan Carb tune tool and do a Carb Sync check. You might want to change the Anti Freez, due to age !! ( low milage bike probably its never been done ) I also have an RSTD, love this bike !!!! Set up for Solo, rider, extra luggage rack in the passenger position . You can also get a factory luggage rack , mounts right onto the sissy bar!! ( money well spent )