Jump to content

GeorgeS

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    3,137
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. Yes, add fluid, and bleed it thru enough that you have replaced All of the Old fluid. Use Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid.
  2. The Stator, and Rotor, are located under the Left Engine Case. Three #14 (white) wires carry the 3 phase AC to the Regulator/Rectifyer unit. ( thru the large white plug, left side of bike) That unit is located just aft of the Swing Arm bearing, left side. From there Two, Red wires, and Two black wires carry the DC voltage to the battery. Note: most Automobile Alternators now have the Rectifiers, and regulator built into a Single Unit. Not so, on most motorcycles. Nomenclature: Any Generator, wether its an AC or DC generator has a " Rotor, and Stator". As a general rule of thumb, a DC Generator is called a Generator. An AC Generator is usually called an " Alternator " ( due to its generating AC ) An Alternator can be single phase, or multi phase. ( multi phase has much better regulation ) A Magneto, is a the term used for DC generators back in the old days. These units, mechanically driven were mostly used to supply DC for Ignition system's, and limited amount of lighting. They are poorly regulated, if at all. ( Generally not used after the late 1940's) From the Battery you have a 40 AMP, Main Fuse, which supplies 12 Volts DC to all other circuits.
  3. All that an " Amp meter " does is tell you the current flow , measured, in Amps, that is flowing to or from the Battery. + Amperage reading means the Charging system is putting "more" current into the Battery then is being used, by the vehical's total electrical systems. ( ie. battery is being charged ) - Amperage reading means that more current is flowing out of the battery ( ie. is being used by accessories, the total load ) then the "Charging system" can Provide. ( this means the battery is slowly going downhill ) ( ie. battery is being slowly Discharged ) Looking at it another way, the ampmeter is just a " tool" to show you if the Charging system is keeping up with the current draw. It does not "do" anything, its just an indicator. Your Stock Venture Charging system is capable of supplying 30 Amps, at 14 Volts. If you Exceed that Current draw, then your battery is supplying the "Excess" current draw, and over time it will go dead. If your total current draw, is Over 30 Amps, its best to Remove some of the Accessories that you have added. Unless you can find a Replacement " Stator" that is capable of higher output. IF, you are seeing a " Voltage Drop " you are most likley Exceeding the 30 Amp rateing of your charging System. There is NO other answer. Except, maby , Adding More battery Capacity. That would get you by for shorter trips, and Use a Charger at night to make up the difference. But thats just a stop gap, patch. Changing to a Dry Cell, or Gell Cell Battery would help, but only because they have higher capacity. You need more Amps, not more voltage. To accomplish this the only answer is to replace the " Stator" with one that is capable of supplying Higher current flow. ie. More then 30 amps. The average Automobile has a 75 to 100 Amp Alternator, our Ventures have 30 Amp alternators, and if you try to exceed that power rateing, you are going to have trouble. The first thing to go out is usually the large White plug between the alternator, and Regulator Burns up. Or the windings on the Stator start to OverHeat, the Insulation melts, and the charging voltage to your battery starts dropping over time. Your battery starts going down over time cause you are takeing out more power then the chargine system is putting into it.
  4. All Ventures, 1st Gen, and 2nd Gen have " ALTERNATORS " The alternator makes 3 Phase AC !! The 3 phases of AC are Fed to the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit. ( one item) Where the AC is converted ( ie. Rectified to DC, and the Regulated to 13 to 14 volds DC ) I'm sorry but whoever told you this bike has a DC Generator, Is mis informed. ( or the dealer did not send him to school ) Your local Friendly Retired Aircraft, Electrician, Electronic/technition. GeorgeS.
  5. All the hose fittings from the pump at rear, have small O-rings seals. follow the hoses from under the Trunk, to the front. Find the T-fitting at front forks, might be leak in fitting there. Also, remove handle bars, take Caps off top of Each Fork, there are large rubber O-rings there, could be leaking. If you replace the Fork Springs, with progressive Suspension Springs, and 10Wt fork oil, you don't have to worry about Air Pressure in the front. I am running 15 Wt. oil now in forks, and they are to Stiff, With NO Air pressure.
  6. Its the V4 Engine thats the magic !!! Lots of leg room. Lots of storage Space No excessive exhaust heat. No excessive vibration. Decent fuel economy. More then enough HP, without any major mods. Engines never have a major break down. The few items that do need fixing, can be done by the average back yard mechanic, with an average tool box. You can ride them for 10 hours a day for a week, they don't beat you to death. Comfortable, ( within reason ) Thats a few reasons, just of the top of my head.
  7. And 80 percent of the Harleys are imported parts also. They just won't admit it. You think those items are bad. Now we can add Food to the list. All the good farm land is being switched over to Corn to make Fake Gasoline. Now you food is comeing from " over there, or down there" also.
  8. Not much fluid, each re bleed. Also, I got the impression that the New Rubber Seals, might have needed some time to Seal, or Seat in. However thats a subjective observation. Just so you know, many folks have had about the same problem, getting the system bleed out. Check thru the maintenance section, you will find many postings on the subject. One other thing, did you replace the Slave Cylinder??? Everybody that takes them out seems to find a lot of Crud in them. I know I did. Did mine about 2 years ago. same time I did the master.
  9. Maby its " Bad Air " Caused by Global Warming, and all that stuff However, I went thru just about the same process, but just did not take quite as long. I ended up with it working, but not really perfect. As time went on, it seemed to get better. A rebleed it every couple weeks, and eventually was OK.
  10. 2 1/4 turns on the 1st gens. not sure on 2nd gens
  11. check for a connector under the pass seat area. About 15 wires going thru it. Clean that, good place to start.
  12. I thought Wisconson was buried under Snow !!! Were you out rideing that big bike in Winter Condx ?????
  13. Don't ever do that again !!!!!
  14. You might consider U.S. 101 from Somplace on the Washington Coast, all the way to San Franscisco. However this is a slow route, but the most Senic. If you take this route, plan at least 3 full days from N.E. Wa. Coast to San Fran. , maby 4 depending on how fast you want to travel. On Return trip either take I-5, from San Fran, to Weed Calif, than cut over on U.S. 97, which will take you all the way back into Canada. Scenery thru Central Oregon is completly different then the Coast Route. This way you have two totally different route's. If you have lots of time, consider some of the roads that run east and west between the Coastal Route ( ie. 101 ) and I-5. I especially Reccomend the Highway from Grants Pass, Oregon to Cresent City, Calif. on the coast, U.S. 199. a great Scienic ride. Also from Red Bluff, Ca. east or west on Calif. Hyw 36 to Eureka, Ca. is a great ride. Have you ever ridden I-5 from about, Roseburg, Or. all the way to Redding, Calif. Even though this is a 4 lane freeway, and lots of trucks, this stretch of road has great Scenery, and if a very fun ride. Lots of curves, Mt. pass's. The Coast ride all the way from N.W. Corner of Washington to San Fran, is a must, once in a life time run if you have not done it. If you are traveling double, I would plan 4 days for this run to do it justice. ( If you are an Aviation Buff, let me know, I have a few special attractions you would Enjoy, greatly , along this route ) Just for Ref: I-5 from San Fran to Seattle, if you just run it, allow two days to get back to the Border. I would suggest that on return trip, from Portland you take 84 east, ( thru columbia river valley) then cut up thru Central, Wa. on U.S. 97. Again, totaly different Scenery then the I-5 route, or the Coast route. Also , a side run to consider, is Grand Coulee Dam, in Central Wa. as a quick stop, if you have never been there. IF so, then Wa. Hyw, 155, going S. from the Dam, to Coulee City, is a very uniq rkde. ( Note: Google " Dry Falls " and dry river valley ) Another good Return Route, would be go thru La Grand, Ore, and take the Sceinic " Hells Canyon " back roads around there. You could spend an extra two days on some of the back roads. just N.E. of La Grand, Ore. Also, if you run 97 thru central Oregon, be sure to stop at " Crater Lake ".
  15. Thanks for that info, and please post some better photo's if you can. If possible could you cut out a Cross Section, I would like to see how much caseing is left after tread worn off. I'm in the process of ordering a new set of tires, I think I might go back to the Dunlop Elite III for rear, and Elite II if I can get one. Couple dealers had info that the Elite II might be available In March. Can anybody, confirm that on the Elite II Front tire. ?? Thanks.
  16. I'm with you on drunks. Identifying licence plates is kind of a neat idea. Maby a plate to identify Illegal Aliens would also be a good idea. About 8 years ago, Licence plates were $800 to $3000 depending on value of new vehical. We got it down to about $80.00 with a " ballot measure " that passed, The Folks in the State Capitol are still fumeing over that. They have been trying lots of Sneaky things to get around it. But so far have failed.
  17. I'm hearing that a bill is in the hopper, Wa. state gov't, to put a $600 to $900 tax on new vehicals with engines larger then 2 liter. Called an " Engine Displacement Fee " Also, a bill that would create Special licence plates, that Identify, past convicted Drunk Drivers. Oh well, life goes on, gov't gets bigger, and bigger ------
  18. Its kind of like comparing a big block Chevy to a small block chevy. "Torque, plus Rev's "
  19. How much time do you have to work on it ?? I would make an estimate, about $1000 worth of parts, also figure on a complete carb rebuild, and lots of work. New tires, new front springs, fork seal replacement, possible new wheel bearings, clutch as you said, and possibly 2nd gear replacement, battery, solinoid, possibly lots of electrical problems. If you really want something to work on my take would be look for an 89 to 93. And more importantly something that has been on the road, not sitting for " several years " Thats always bad. As far as parting it out, E-bay is always loaded with 83 and 84 parts. Cosider that. My take, is don't do it, but thats just my 2 cents worth.
  20. See: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19271 Its the right thing to do. Forget the patch up fix !!!!
  21. Possible some blockage has migrated down into the line, or Slave dureing the rebuild and rebleed process ??
  22. I know of a BMW rider back in the 80 and early 90's, had a small box on the back, and he had a Wire Haired Terrior, that rode in the Box. The dog wore a leather vest, a lether helmet and Goggels. I learned about this in the BMW owners group magazine that I subscribed to at the time. Pictures of the dog. The fellow was from Texas. Well One day I was on I-5 heading south, on the LA side of the GrapeVine, on my 79 Beemer, about 5 miles from Santa Clarita. I looked in the mirror and see a Bemmer gaining on me, and as he passed, !! Low and behold It was him. And the Dog wagged his tail as they went bye. I guess he liked Beemers. ( anyway I wished I'd never have sold that 79 Beemer )
  23. If we assume, the Master is All OK. And the Line is clear, then there might be a blockage Inside of the " Slave Cylinder itself " Have you ever worked on the Slave cylinder? OK, two approach's to this. You can get a rebuild kit, for about $15 bucks, OR a complete new Slave Cylinder for About $30 bucks. I reccomend buying a new one, as its worth the $15 to not rebuild the old one. And it will probably work better. On an 86, if its never been redone, it needs a new one !!!!! I did mine two years ago, it was full of #$%*@
  24. well I meant removeing the hose at master, and Slave, and just blowing out the hose. As the other fellow said, he found his line plugged. I would not blow high pressure into the " Slave Cylinder " I watched " Condor " bleed a clutch at Ft.Collins last year. He used a Syringe with a piece of Hose, to " Slowly pump fluid " into the system from the Bottom at the slave up into the master, Do this Very slowly. Watch the Resovoiur fill up, keep slowly pumping fluid in from the bottom untill no more air bubble come out. Then, revert back to pumping the handle. and rebleed at the Slave position. I always use Valvoline synthetic brake fluid.
  25. I believe Wingers have a Channel they monitor, if you want to talk to them. Not sure what it is though. Listioning to truckers is a big help near big cities for traffic slow downs. If I see problems ahead, I switch off the music, and listion to the truckers to find out what is going on. Few times I have gotten routing help from the truckers also.
×
×
  • Create New...