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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. Try spraying the plug on the Flasher Unit with contact cleaner.
  2. You might have a Bad " Starter Engage Clutch Unit " Have you examined, Both Ends ( the crimped on studs ) of Both Battery Cables for corrosion ? Also at the Solinoid. ?? I would consider resoldering the Studs on all the heavy cables, and at the Solinoid. Also, pull the cover off the left side of the Crank Shaft, and try turning the engine over by hand with a wrench, to get a feel for how much force is needed to crank over the engine. Do this with the plugs Removed, ( see IPC for checking engine timeing )
  3. Use a Plug, to get too the Next Motorcycle dealer down the road. Drive Slow. !!! Buy a new tire !!! For the Average Nail, or puncture this works great. Save the cost of a Tow Truck
  4. Did you leave 1/2 Inch of space in the Master, for fluid Expansion ?? Heat from the Rear Exhaust pipe, heats the master, and Expands the fluid. Also, use Valvoline Synthethic brake fluid.
  5. Deffinatly use NEW Parts. Seal Kits, and Replace Both Bushings on each Tube. They may not appear to need replaceing, But replace them. Also, if over 50K, replace the springs also. You won't regret the expense.
  6. I recently had a Very Slow leak in a Front Avon. Small Stone had punctured. After realizing the leak was there, I put a plug in it. About a week later I checked the pressure, it had gone down about 8 lb. If on a trip, I would use a plug to get to then next avialable town to get a new tire installed. However, I would drive slow. I also noted that the tire had a Very Slight Buldge around the plug. Its a good tool, to save Tow truck charges, but I agree, do not keep rideing on a plugged tire. In other words, use plugs with caution.
  7. I am assumming that the offending noise in your audio system is at the higher end of the Audio Spectrum ( or human hearing frequency range ) Possibley a different Set of Ear phones might help. It might also be possible to design an " Audio Filter " to cancel out the offending frequencies.
  8. Deffinatly " Replace " the Bolts !!!! I simply ordered them, with the other New Parts. Did you take Note of the Factory "Stakeing " I am of the opinion that they simply did a lousy job of Staking. I double Staked, mine, and I used the Strongest Lock Tite. A few folks said this was not a good idea, But I decided to use the Strongest Loc tite. Call around to a few dealers, they might have the Bolts In Stock. As I assume they are probaly a Stock Part on many different Yamaha Bikes. Assumeing you can't find them anyplace else
  9. Replace the Bolts !! Replace All the Small parts. Do a good job of " Stakeing" them, and use " Lock tite " Replace All the Parts !!!! Is that a Crack I see on the Clutch Unit ??
  10. Check the yellow pages for Independant dealers. I you pull the wheel take it down, a lot of them will mount and balance for about $25, if you buy the tire from them. If you've never done it and don't have tools, this might be the best way to go. Call around for estimates.
  11. Concerning Dunlop E - III Bias Ply tires. http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/tirecatalog_tire.asp?id=86 This page shows all the size's that the new Elite III, ( replacement for E-II K 491 ) is supposed to be avialble in. The Rears are available ( MU90B16-78H ) Question is: Has anybody been able to obtain as yet, the Front?? Size: ------- MR90-18-71H in the new E 3, tread style, Bias ply. ????? As soon as I find a supplier that has both front and rear, I'm going to order a set. Thanks for any info:
  12. GeorgeS

    Seafoam

    You don't have to, just do it !!! Its the right thing to do !!!
  13. When you get the Metric Bolts, for the " Puller " be sure to get the High Strength material bolts. Take very good care of all the Bolt threads involved in the job. Easy to strip some threads.
  14. Hmmm, read all this yesterday, and your success story this morning. Thinking, maby applying some Heat with a torch, might have made it quicker.
  15. Sounds like that set of carbs, needs a complete rebuild. Good project for next winter !!
  16. I would just Fill it, till it runs out.
  17. The trick with the Odyessy, is to use the Instruction sheet. Charge it at a Steady rate, for a specific amount of time. I have been useing 4 to 6 amps for about 5 hours. That seems to do it just fine. Do not leave the constant rate charger hooked up over night.
  18. Ok, here is link to Dunlop Elite III Bias Ply tire Sizes, Front and Rear: Only problem, seems to be to get the MR90-18 front for 1st Gens. http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/tirecatalog_tire.asp?id=86 Anyway, this page, shows what size's are supposed to be avialable in the Elite III Bias tire I had an old ( New 491 Elite II ) I mounted it to replace the Avon, that the stone punched thru. Been out rideing with it last two days, seems ok with the Avon Venom, on the back. I will be ordering a complete set of the Elite III, front and rear, when the front becomes avialable. ( when ever that is !!!! )
  19. Thanks for the Oil Different Wgt. Info. My 1st gen has always had some whine, especially when Decellerating. However I never considered it a problem. Just the way this beast runs. Another item, would be on long trips, use ear plugs. I have expeirimented with these on the Busa, with Full face helmet. Lots of Wind noise on that bike. ( ie. no windshield ) I was trying to cut down on the wind noise. The ear plugs really work for that. And do not seem to effect the music thru the helmet mounted ear phones. But makes a big different on the high frequency wind noise. As to clutch slippage. Since I put the Barnett Unit in, at around 30K, I have not been able to get it to slip, no matter what I do, or what oil I use.
  20. A couple comments have been posted that changing to Synthetic Oil helped. If so, has anybody expeirmented with different Wgts of oil. Say, Mobil I 5w 30w, verse, Mobil I 15W 40W, Or the heaver wght they have for trucks, I think its 15W 50W. Just a thought. ???
  21. I assume you are refferecing the " Two " Chrome head 13mm bolts that hold the Caliper unit to the piece that the axel goes thru. If so, I would consider grinding it to fit the next size smaller "Open End " Wrench size smaller. It should only have about 10 to 15 lb of torque on it. If that fails, you might have to Grind Off the Head, drill a hole in the center of it, and get an " Easy Out " too to remove the remainder of it. Just hope the threads in the Caliper unit are not ruined. If so, then after removal of the old bolt, you might have to drill out the old threads of the caliper, and use a new Bolt, with a LOCK Nut. ( a larger diameter bolt ) If you run up against a wall, post some Pictures of what you have. Sombody will have some ideas as how to proceed.
  22. Check, under the Water pump, on the under side, there is a " Weep Hole". If any fluid sneaks past the Water pump shaft Seal, it will drain out here. I would not worry to much untill you take it out for a run, after weather gets better. It will most likley stop leaking. This is fairly common on 1st gens.
  23. Simple due to AGE, 19 pushing 20 years !! rebuild the Calipers. I know its a messy job, but I did them on my 89 3 years ago. Believe me, they needed the rebuild. And, they were working OK when I pulled them apart. Get new kits, do the job, your life depends on it.
  24. Also, the Shape of the bags, and trunk, might have some effect on Air Drag. Expecially the saddle bags, larger size might increase the aerodynamic drag of the newer models. Just a thought.
  25. I'm short a left side brake disc, for my spare front wheel. 1989, 1st gen. I bought a set, on E-bay last year, but the left one was Bent. Anyway, if anybody has one laying around, if interested in selling ???
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