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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    Very Interesting, as they say !! Ok, I'm just guessing, trying to come up with a possible cause. So far, nothing. Other then a couple of tires, that are or were flawed off the assembly line in some way. OR, Maby they were Damaged in shipping, to the Retail outlet, from the Mfgr. If it were me, at this Point I would pull that Tire, and put on an Elite III or Elite II. (( sorry Avon Fans )) Ok, one other thought. I have heard of several 83, 84, maby 85 models that had problems with Cracked Frames. As I recall, cracks were located Near the Swing Arm bearings. There are postings about this someplace on this web site. Squeez, do you remember this ?? Is it possible that this might be involved in this particular problem ?? Just a thought. I'm just guessing, don't anybody throw anything at me -----
  2. GeorgeS
    Just a few comments. Have you checked the 3 lower cross bolts, of the rear suspensioin, Maby remove and lubricate them. You might check the Torque of the Swing Arm Bearings Nuts. Maby regreese the Bearings there. Have you Ever checked the Torque Of ALL the Frame Bolts. Maby a loose nut or bolt someplace. ??? I put on a set of Avons last summer, I had problem with the front, Stone Punctured it. I have replaced that with an Dunlop. Frankly, I'm seriously considering Ordering a New Elite III for the Rear.
  3. GeorgeS
    Give the Ingnition Switch, and the Run - Stop Switch a " BATH " with CRC 2-26. Read Resistance from the 4 Center Pins of the 8 Pin plug of the TCI, to the + Bat. cable after removeing it from the battery. You should see 3.8 to 4.5 ohms. Thats the resistance of th Primary Coil Windings. You might have a Coil going bad Remove the TCI, and Dry it out. Clean the contacts at the TCI. Check the plug between the Alternator, and the Regulator. Check the 5 wire plug in cable from Pick up coils, going to the 6 pin plug of the TCI. Maby bad plug wires. Maby bad plugs.
  4. GeorgeS
    OK, a comment as to main fuse: Being this is a 40 Amp fuse, It would be logical to assume that if you diid not find any other fuse blown, that there may have been an Intermittant dead short somplace on the bike. However some other fuse should have also blown, if this was the case. I think I would do a carefull eximanation of the entire bike looking for some damaged wireing, which might be anyplace on the bike. I would start looking under the Seat, and possibly the gas tank. Also, take a carefull look around the Steering head. Consider that when handlebars are move full left or right, there might be some wireing bundle, or cable that is being stretched, and some wire might be shorting to ground at some point. Also, check carefully behind the headlight assembly. Ask the owner, if anybody has been doing any work recently on the bike, and I would carefully check in that area.
  5. GeorgeS
    I am going to guess that the guy might be damaging the new seals, upon installation. He is doing something Wrong. Also, this time Also replace the two bushings on each tube: Carefully check the tubes for sharp edges that might Damage the New Seals when they are Installed. See the 1st Gen Maint Library, if you decide to do the job yourself this time. If you can't do the job yourself, I strongly suggest finding sombody else to do the job.
  6. GeorgeS
    Usually the problem at this plug, is simply its dirty or corroded, and thus some of the wires might have a High Resistance Connection, Thru the plug. Just open it, and clean with Alcohol, or Electrical Connector cleaner ( Radio Shack has some ) Blow out with compressed air. All five of these wires run, From, the pick Up Coils, and go to the 6 Pin Plug of the TCI. Also, With Bike on center stand, side stand UP, Shift in Neutral, Run Stop in Run, and Ignition ON. Pull the 8 Pin plug from the TCI, and make sure there is 12 Volts, DC on ALL 4 of the Center Pins ( two center of the top row, and two of the lower row ) IF not, check the " 15 Amp " Ing fuse for 12 volts on both sides. Read resistance across the fuse, make contact where the wires are soldered onto the fuse holders. You might have a bad fuse holder, this is a common problem. See page 7-25 for wireing circuit, for 12 volts to each of the 4 Ing coils. Also, see where 12v on the R/Y wire comes from the Run-Stop SW to the TCI. Also, see page 7-11 for a Block Diagram of all the Circuits that make up the Starting Circuit. Read all the Text on page 7-11 . There is a lot involved. Another check to do: SEE: page 7-25 wireing diagram. --- Pull the 8 pin plug from TCI ---- Remove the Pos Cable from the Battery --- Now take 4 resistance readings --- From -- the loose end of Bat Cable, ----too, ---- each of the following on the 8 pin plug. the " O ", " Gy " , "Y " and " W " wires The correct amount of resistance you should read on each of these 4 wires to the loose end of Bat cable ( With Ignition SW in the ON Pos ) Should be 3.8 to about 4.5 ohms. This amount of resistance is the DC resistance of the Primary Winding of each of the Ing Coils. Any extra ( higher ) is bad, this higher resistance will lower the 12 volts avialable to the Ing Coil. Causing Low Spark voltage to the plugs. If you find extra resistance, use CRC Brand 2-26 electrical contact cleaner on the following parts, and blow out with compressed air. The Ing Switch, the " Run Stop" Switch, Also, see page 8-41 and see that there are Plugs enroute to the Ignition SW, and the Run Stop Sw. Be sure to find these, and clean with 2-26 also.
  7. GeorgeS
    If its over 50K, and in that condx, I would forget it. Unless, you really want a Project Bike !! If its say under 20k, ( actually ) then it might make a good project bike.
  8. GeorgeS
    Is this stuff avialable at Retail Outlets ?
  9. GeorgeS
    If all the above does not do the trick: Also, follow the Two wires from the Sender unit, it will come to a " TWO Wire " pull apart plug, ( not sure where its located ) ( probabley behind the Head light ) there might be a problem at this plug. Its not to hard to pull the sender unit out of the tank. Sombody recently posted an article on removeing it, and makeing a repair to the unit itself. ( If thats your problem) Check the Maint. section, to find the posting.
  10. GeorgeS
    At the large plug under rear seat, on each side of the plug, tug gently on each of the wires, One of the wires Might have a bad " Crimp" on the Pin that goes into the plug. It might pull right out. If so, the pin will have to be removed, and resoldered to the end of that wire. Also, follow the cable from front of bike all the way. You might find that the cable has been damaged at some point. Inspect it inch by inch. Also, if you remove the REAR, Control Unit, inside, the wires are " soldered " to the connector plug. Possible one of these solder joints has come loose.
  11. GeorgeS

    PTT Button

    GeorgeS replied to sdive's topic in Watering Hole

    Did you follow the wireing cable " from " the handle bar Switches, to a Pull Apart Plug. Wires for the " PTT ", " Dimmer Switch " , and " Horn Switch " go thru this plug. It should be located, behind the Head light. After the PTT signal goes thru this plug, it then goes to another Plug located withing a few Inches of the Main CB UNIT. Either of these two plugs, might have a bad connection. I would think the one located by the CB unit itself is the culprit. I have found a couple of loose wires at crimps of the pins on this plug. See, Page 8-41 and 8-42 of the Service Manual, for the Wireing diagrams, and Wireing Color Codes.
  12. GeorgeS
    http://www.cartoys.com/default.cfm/t/Car_Audio/c/Amplifiers.o/2_Channel_Amplifiers Here are some possible Amps you could use. OR, a new Auto radio, would have the Amps built in.
  13. GeorgeS
    Pull the top off, find the Pull apart plug , ( very near the duplexer unit ) Clean the contacts of this plug. Also, tug lightly on all the wires going into both sides of this plug. I had some problem, and found 2 wires in this plug pulled out of their crimps. I had to resolder them to the male and female pins. Just a thought.
  14. GeorgeS
    I would assume you will need to get some type of Amplifier. It would have to be at least 15 Watt per channel. Do you still have the Original Amplifier Unit?? You should be able to send the low wattage Audio into the original amp, and speakers. Or, install a Car Radio, with about 25 Watt per channel, that has an Aux. Input. Feed the audio from the Chatterbox into the Aux input. This is just one idea. I think " Car Toys " sells a couple of Amplifier units for Car Speakers.
  15. GeorgeS
    You might Have to add a small amount of Torque to the Steering Head Nut. On my 89, I added about 5 degrees of CW rotatation. That seemed to cure the head shake. Mine started at about 50 MPH. Also, have you Greesed the Steering Head Bearings ??? Also, check the bolts that hold the Tubes into the Steering Head. Loosen them, and Check for alignment, Retorqe to proper amount. Is there Any chance that your Axel is bent or deformed in any way ?? Also, when Installing, rotate the Axel, see if you can find a point of " least resistance to rotation" Leave it in this position.
  16. GeorgeS
    Has anybody done any Serious Experiementing with the " Carb Float Level " Settings ?? As to how this would effect Fuel consumption ?? I was doing some reading concerning this, as to how Barometric Pressure affects the flow of the fuel to the Jets. Apparently the Height of the fuel in the Bowl Chamber, changes how much fuel a given Barometric Pressure can force thru the jets. I been looking for more info on this, but as yet have not found a complete explanation of how this works. From what I have found, this is apparently basic to any Carburator. Still looking for more info on this.
  17. GeorgeS
    Check the Rubber Caps, on the Manifold vaccume ports. They might be cracked and rotted. Also, the Vaccum Hose, from the Lft Fwd, carb that goes up to the " Barro Sensor "
  18. GeorgeS
    Pull radio out again, carefully check the pull apart plug, maby one of the pins of the two plugs is bent, and not slideing into the proper position. Take the Rubber Cover Off the Amp unit, Check the 4 cables that plug into the top of that unit. Maby bad connection on one of them. Follow the cables from the left handlebar, control unit, check for damaged cables. This cable will have a pull apart plug, enrout to the Amp. Clean all the pins, with contact cleaner. There is also a plug enroute to the Passenger Control, might be a problem in that plug.
  19. GeorgeS
    Agree, worth the money !!!
  20. GeorgeS
    Completly Drain your gas tank. Completly Drain all the carb bowls. Get a can of " Sea-Foam" fuel system cleaner. Use one can for 1/2 tank of fuel, run engine every day for about 1/2 hour. Drain carb bowls, after each run. Give the stuff a few days to clean out the system. Might cure the problem. You could also use Valvoline Synthetic Fuel Injector Cleaner, Good stuff. Your problem is usually caused by Sticking Float Valves.
  21. GeorgeS
    Did you check the if the " B " wire to the Flasher Unit, actually has a ground. Also, check for voltage to the Flasher Unit, AND to the Hazard Switch. Voltage for the Flasher Unit, Comes from the Hazard Switch !! If the Haz switch happens to be set In Between Off, and ON, there will be No voltage supply to the flasher unit. If Haz, sw is NOT in OFF position, turn sigs will not work. OR, the Hazard Sw, might be bad. Check wireing from Haz SW to the Fuse that supplies power. Then check that the 12 V from Haz, Sw. is actually getting to the turn sig sw, then to the flasher unit.
  22. GeorgeS
    Order some new Case Cover Gaskets, you will need them !! Two for left side, and the clutch cover on right side. Also, " IF " you pull the Clutch Cover, then I would also replace the Clutch Springs, if that has never been done, They are Cheap, and prevent future clutch slippage problems. Also, IF you pull the left side covers, would be a good time to replace, or rebuild the " Clutch Hydralic Slave Cylinder " An " age " related item.
  23. GeorgeS
    Deffinatly: Drain the Forks: At the Drain Screws, Check the O-Ring Rubber Seals, on the Drain Screws, They may be Damaged, or Missing. this might be the cause of your Oil being low. O-Rings should be avialable at any Auto Parts store. I would " Assume " that the Oil has Never been changed. If what comes out of drain holes, is Black ( most likly it will be ) I would also rinse out the Tubes, with maby some SAE -5 wgt Oil, a few times, let it all drain out well. In other words try to clean out the old stuff. Refill: with the " Specified " number of " Ounces " of the correct weight of " Fork Oil " NOT, Engine Oil, or any other type of oil. !!!!! See, Service Manuel for the Correct Number of Ounces of Oil to use. Most any Motorcycle dealer carries the stuff. You will need at least 2 Qts. One is not enough. You must remove handle bars, and the large Allen Head Plugs on top of each Tube. You will need the Correct Size Allen Head Wrench " Metric " Wrench. The Threads on the Plugs are Very Fine!!! Carefull not to damage them. Clean threads carefully before replaceing the plugs. Hardest part of job, is to get the Plugs ReStarted Aginast the Spring Pressure Without Damaging the Threads !!! DON'T DAMAGE THE THREADS !!! Work Slow !!!!! If you hit a Snag, make a Posting !!!!! Help is here
  24. GeorgeS
    See the 1st Gen Maint Library Section: Complete Info with photo's about the Starter Engage Clutch. Most likley, If its never been replaced, then , it needs replacement. Cost for parts, is about $110.00 . and some tools.
  25. GeorgeS
    Home Depot, and Lowes should have it in Home Electrical Supply Section. Some auto parts stores carry the stuff also.
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