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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. GeorgeS
    If no obvious leakage, around the master, follow the Hose down to the " Clutch Slave Cylinder " Check for any Damage to the hose, or the solid line section on its way to the Slave Cylinder. Check the " Bleed Screw " for the Slave Cylinder, It might be loose. If you find nothing to this point, then The slave Cylinder itself might be leaking. Its located, under the Aft Cover left side. Two bolts hold it on, and it has a gasket which might be leaking, if the Scews are loose. Or, the hose, where it connects to the Slave Cylinder, might be leaking, if the bolt holding it in place is leaking.
  2. GeorgeS
    Poor Handling ??? Have your Fork Springs, ever been replaced ?? " Bad Handling " you may need to greese steering bearings, and replace the fork springs, and oil if you have not done so as yet.
  3. GeorgeS
    I agree with TX sturgis. Sounds like the fold over mount, is Increasing the length of your antenna, thus lowering the Resonant Frequency to below ch 1. Also, double check that the mounting of the base to the actual frame of the bike, there might be some High Resistance, not likley, but possible. Can you install your SWR meter between the output of the transmitter, and the Splitter, see what the SWR looks like hooked in that way. Another question, are you useing the Old cable, or a New Cable with the New Antenna ?? Might be a problem with the old cable.
  4. GeorgeS
    Whats the latest on the " Knocking " ??
  5. GeorgeS
    What did you find??? When you get it fixed, you are required to Post Your Findings !!!
  6. GeorgeS
    See, allready got a heated discussion going. Thats why we need a Complete listing of All, OEM, clutch parts for each year, And then, Every! possible Aftermarket configuration, for that year, with P/N's and Suppliers. Then post it, as Open for Corrections, or additions. When its complete, then list it in the Maintenance Library !!! And with that, the SUN is Shinning in SEATTLE, its 85 DEG F. and I'm going to get the " Black Beast " out, and go for a ride. ( A FAST RIDE ) Its just that kind of a day ------------ C ya down the road
  7. GeorgeS
    This all sounds like we need a posting in the Maint Library, Concerning Clutch Replacement Parts, for all the different years and models, of the Venture Bikes. This should include all possible levels of " Fix's " for each year, includeing Manufactures, and different methods that could be used for each year of bike, from 83 up. This should include OEM P/N's and any Aftermarket suppliers of clutch components that will work for that particular year of bike. Is anybody Up to that task ???? There just seems to be to much confusion, with decideing which parts will work for the different year bikes.
  8. GeorgeS
    I had mine apart twice, but don't remember putting Two turns on it. As I recall, I just put it in place. I just looked thru the Cruz control section of the Service Manual, does not seem to give any information. Good question !!
  9. GeorgeS
    I would simply start by Rebleeding, and replaceing All the Fluid, in left and right systems. Also, carefully examine Pads for wear, see what you've got left. Rebleed, and new set of pads, may be all that you need.
  10. GeorgeS
    Use the Block Diagram on page 7-41 of the Service Manual. ( Its on this web site ) Follow the " Br " wire from the " Signal " fuse, to find all components that are fed voltage from this fuse. This fuse Feeds. ----- Horn , Inst panel, Hazard Switch, Turn signal system, And, the " EAND System " I would start looking at the Horn Wireing. Do the Horns work ???? Both of them? Also, the " Trunk Light " I would check the Trunk Light first, As the its very Easy for the Wireing at the Trunk Lid, to become damaged, near the hinge. Another, possible cause would be an " internal Short " in a Light bulb, however this would be extremely rare, however, I have seen this happen to light bulbs.
  11. GeorgeS
    Also, check the cable close to the Control Head, Follow wires to the Plug. Might be loose connection at Crimp of Wires to pins inside the plug, male or female side.
  12. GeorgeS
    The wire is simply 7mm Solid Core Plug Wire. Whatever NAPA stocks will work just fine. And the NGK Caps and Plugs, of course, as Condor listed.
  13. GeorgeS
    Sounds like its time to take it out and put a few Serious Miles on it. Give it a couple hundred miles, of Highway speed running. Then see what you have after that.
  14. GeorgeS
    I agree, the Run Stop Sw, and the Ignition Switch. Use, Electrical Contact Cleaner, ( radio shack ) or, CRC 2-26. Also, sounds like you need to pull out the TCI, and open it up, and bake it in the Oven, at about 110 deg. F. for couple hours to dry it out. Also, resolder the Plugs to the Circuit board, inside the TCI. Also, check your 3 wire Cable, plug, from the Stator, that goes to the Reg/Rectifier Unit. open it and check for Overheating damage, clean contacts, use dialectric greese on the Plugs.
  15. GeorgeS
    Follow the 5 wire cable, from the Pick up coils ( mounted Under left side eng cover) as it goes to the 6 pin plug of the TCI. About half way, just about under you left knee as you sit on the bike. There is a Pull apart plug. Find this plug, open it, and clean the contacts. Also, make sure the wires don't pull out of the Pins inside the plug. Also, Remove the Two Large Plugs from the TCI , unit, and clean all the pins. Either of these two plugs could be causing your problem. Good place to start, Let us know if this helps.
  16. GeorgeS
    Simply let the bike " Idle " and see if the Fan Actually Runs. With engine at operating temp, park it, and wait for the fan to come on. If it does not, then there is a problem, with the temp sensor, or the wiring to the temp sensor, or the wireing to the fan motor. I never heard of a Fan actually failing, possible, but not likley.
  17. GeorgeS
    With bike parked, on center stand, in Neutral, lightly Rev the engine. Do you hear the Knock ?? If so, then we can eliminate everything, but the engine. Also, compare, cold engine, with hot engine, parked, in neutreal.
  18. GeorgeS
    Metzeler ME880, 140/90/16 white wall Pull up www.google.com and type in " white wall motorcycle tires " Several choice's
  19. GeorgeS
    The lower bushing, was what you were working against. Be sure it was not damaged , when removeing the lower forks. It is highly reccomended that the lower and upper bushings be replaced, as well as the New Seals. Some folks get away with not replaceing the bushings, some don't and the new set up does not work correct. Oil should be replaced about every 3 or 4 years. I will do mine next winter, that will be three years on my rebuild 2 rideing seasons ago. Wow, 25 year old oil ??? I drained a rear end on a car, that was about 18 years old, the stuff actually smelled Rotten !! It Stunk, kind of like a cow barn. Are you putting in Progressive Suspension Springs, also ?
  20. GeorgeS
    Yes, I had to use Heat, I applied the Heat, then gave three sharp raps. I had to repeat this three times, Each time I increased the force of the 3 hammer raps, it came off on the Third try. My thinking was to not use more then necessary. Also, a comment as to the Length of the Metric Bolts to use. Be sure that the bolts are long enough to AT least go completly thru the Hole depth. Due to the amount of Force Required, make sure you take advantage of the Full Depth of the Threats that Momma Yamma has supplied.
  21. GeorgeS
    In all the bikes I have owned over the years, I simply Drained, and Refilled each side, with the " Measured " amount called out in the Service Manual. Never had a problem with this method. When Installing the New Progressive Springs in my 89, I put in 1 Oz Less then the Yamaha called out required amount. Obviously due to the Increased Diameter of the Spring Material. I decided to try 15Wgt Fork Oil, and No Air pressure. Ride was a little stiff at first , however seems to be just right after 8K miles on the new springs. Or, I just measure out accruatly the Number of OZ of Oil in a seperate container, and dump in that much. I have never bothered to Measure the air space with forks compressed. Both sides should come out the same with this method.
  22. GeorgeS
    If its wider then Stock, won't clear the drive shaft.
  23. GeorgeS
    I would Drain the gas tank completly. Also, Drain the Carb Bowls. Use Sea-Foam, and also some HEET just in case there is moisture in the fuel tank. Give it some running time, a tank or two, then replace the Spark Plugs, just to be sure they are good. NGK, OEM plugs are just fine.
  24. GeorgeS
    Remember, Don't !!! use the Air Hose !!!! Might blow the seals. Get a Hand pump, more then a couple folks have blown the seals useing the hose at the gas station !!
  25. GeorgeS
    Most folks agree that NGK, are just fine. I installed a set of the NGK, ( Iridium ) type. Just as a test. The 89 does seem to Start Better when engine is cold. However, I admit this is a very subjective observation. And they do have a considerable higher price tag.
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