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Harmonicashawn

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Everything posted by Harmonicashawn

  1. Harmonicashawn
    I don't know the history of my bike--I've had it for less than 2 years, BUT...it has 50,000 miles on it. It has V-Max Cams / carbs / and Rear (I swapped that out since). I suspect this is the original clutch that has had just enough abuse to where it is just worn out. My experience tells me that all the components tend to have just enough wear that the effect is cumulative. Not one faulty part, but several slightly worn ones. If I replace everything now--I will get another 50,000 (at least). To Prairiehammer--My first road bike was a '74 CB750 / FOUR (two tone brown)!
  2. Harmonicashawn
    A few thoughts on this subject since my bike has several of these "upgrades" done by a Previous owner. I say "upgrades" because I'm not convinced the payoff is worth the price. The aircleaner will now be unsilenced and it is actually quite annoying. You WILL need to re-jet the carbs and that means less fuel milage! My bike has VMAX cams / carbs / and rearend. To drive it--I would say it has 15-20 horses over stock and it lost 20 MPG from stock! I put the stock rear in and now I'm up to 34MPG. I've had Really fast bikes (the VR will never be one of those). It is a touring bike (a really fast touring bike).
  3. Harmonicashawn
    I hear what you're saying, but I like to plan for worst case scenario. Plus--as a mechanic you never want the dreaded "comeback" (it's bad for business). That being said---I will survey the damage once I'm in there, but I do like to have ALL the parts before "surgery"! I don't mean to seem crass, but isn't the purpose of this site to act as a sounding board for sharing information? Please keep in mind--I'm not a complete idiot. Thanks!
  4. Harmonicashawn
    Thanks for all the advise! Bongobob---Arcade is only 30 minutes away (we will definitely do some riding). I saw an old VR last year when I was out (I figured it must be you!). I think I'll go with the Skydoc setup--sounds like all I need. The Barnett pressure plate is a replacement for the MkII also 1200 / 1300, but the stock setup with a heavier pressure spring should be perfect (I'm not drag racing!). I did drag race my Fazer and guess what?- (the stock clutch worked great)!
  5. Harmonicashawn

    '89 VR

    Harmonicashawn posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    '89 VR

    From the album: My VR

  6. Harmonicashawn
    I'm sure this has been questioned to death, but I would like some advise. I tend to feel that nobody beats the quality of factory parts, but..... I need a clutch for my '89 VR. suggestions---all stock / Barnett Pressure plate / stock or aftermarket frictions? Any thoughts would be appreciated. I intend to do normal driving--no serious abuse. Only slight mods (from what I can tell)--cams / jets. Pretty stock setup. What should I expect to pay? I priced a whole new stock setup -$270.
  7. Harmonicashawn
    If Vacuum is not steady, that indicates problems with valves not seating properly. Worst case scenario is a complete valve job, but an adjustment may be all that is needed.
  8. Harmonicashawn
    Can the stock wiring handle the extra output? At what RPM do they start to charge / reach their full charge? I'm thinking mine is weak because the system doesn't go above battery voltage until almost 3,000 rpm and peaks at about 13.50v. Any advise would be helpful, thanks--Shawn
  9. Harmonicashawn
    Can anyone tell me the stock temp for a first gen VR? I'm thinking that the P.O. put in a colder one. There should be an optimal temp for this motor and I'm thinking that the factory knows best! In my experience with muscle cars- a colder thermostat= less power and higher fuel consumption. Many people (including myself have made this mistake). Thanks--Shawn
  10. Harmonicashawn
    RTV--Yes--also works well on slip joints for exhaust (make later dissasembly much easier)
  11. Harmonicashawn
    Hey Guys, Just wanted to give an update for anyone who is interested. Today I put the original gears back into my bike. I couldn't be happier! I don't feel that I have lost anything on the low-end (torque to spare), but I gained almost 10mph on the top. One of my biggest concerns was the fact that the motor wasn't under sufficient load at cruising speeds (I felt it was ready to grenade at any time). I've had Sport Bikes and Muscle Bikes and this is neither, so I'm happy to have it be more "Cruiser Friendly" (sorry-couldn't resist). On a technical note--since I didn't actually need to remove the rear wheel---I didn't! I only removed the left saddle bag/ both mufflers/ axle bolt and I was able to pull the wheel back enough to dissengage the drive shaft and studs from the torque-tube. 90min.-- start to finish (this is my first time working on one of these). P.S. Thanks Earl for some nice original parts!
  12. Harmonicashawn
    This may be worst case scenario, but if it has been sitting for a long time the carbs may be "Varnished". Meaning the internal passages and air bleeds are plugged up. The best solution in this case is to strip the carbs and dip all the cast pieces in a caustic (available at auto parts stores), then blow out the passages with compressed air. You can also run lots of "carb / fuel injector" cleaner through (the kind you mix in the tank). You can check for manifold boot leaks by spraying some ether around the base of the carbs when it is running (if the RPM rises there is a leak). Hope this is helpful---Shawn
  13. Harmonicashawn
    Any recommendations on a Heel/Toe shifter for a First Gen (Brands / set-up etc.) Where can I buy one?
  14. Harmonicashawn
    Thanks for the quick response---I'm a true gearhead so I would probably keep both sets onhand. I would like to get some long trips under my belt before committing to a swap, but I want to keep my options open. Any other thoughts would be appreciated!
  15. Harmonicashawn
    I just bought an '89 with a Vmax rearend. 60mph=3800rpm (+/-). What would the RPM be for a stock rear? What do I need to change to put it back to stock (this is a touring bike afterall)? What year parts are interchangeable? Thanks Guys!
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