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atlm

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Everything posted by atlm

  1. atlm
    I believe that things happen for a reason, and many blessings are disguised initially as disasters or hardships. My life has been full of them. 25 years ago, I was in a really bad motorcycle accident that put me in a wheelchair for 3 1/2 months, followed by another month on crutches. At the time, I thought it was the worst thing ever. Well, that accident had saved my life (very long story). Bless you both. I hope you heal quickly.
  2. atlm
    I also have the Stop and Go tire plugger kit: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/STOP-POCKET-TIRE-PLUGGER-1000/dp/B0006NE3KE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1265312778&sr=1-1]Amazon.com: STOP & GO POCKET TIRE PLUGGER 1000: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41p%2BiOLaSIL.@@AMEPARAM@@41p%2BiOLaSIL[/ame] and this pump, which is small, comes with a nice case with all accessories necessary for a bike, and got great reviews: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Power-Sport-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1265312594&sr=1-1]Amazon.com: Slime 40001 Power Sport Tire Inflator: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31beNLttjML.@@AMEPARAM@@31beNLttjML[/ame] I'd avoid any kits that come with CO2 cartridges, as they're expensive, take a bunch to fill a tire, and if for some reason you don't get the repair 100% sealed the first time and have to refill the tire with air, you're out of luck. The Dynaplug recently got a positive review in MCN: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Dynaplug-1007-Tubeless-Tire-Repair/dp/B000EXSER4/ref=pd_sim_auto_2]Amazon.com: Dynaplug 1007 Tubeless Tire Repair Kit: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51kkU6aoltL.@@AMEPARAM@@51kkU6aoltL[/ame] so I might be buying one of those to carry one along, also. These bikes weight too much to try to ride without air.
  3. atlm
    Any tips on how to remove a stuck vacuum hose without damaging it? The rear vacuum hose (on the nipple to sync the carbs) is being really stubborn and doesn't want to come off. I tried rotating the hose on the nipple with a pair of pliers, which usually works to break hoses free, but the pliers started digging into the outside of the hose, and I don't want to damage the hose or put too much force and break off the nipple. I tried pushing it back (hard, which has also worked for me in the past on other vehicles) with a flat screwdriver levered on the fake cooling fins, but it just doesn't want to move. On larger hoses, like radiators, I can slide a thin object in and around the mating surfaces, but there's no room to do that here. I was thinking of trying to let wd40 penetrate for a while, but thought I'd throw it out here to see if there's a simple trick I'm missing. The vacuum cap came right off. Just the hose is being stubborn.
  4. atlm
    I would recommend a volt meter if you're going to mount one to monitor things on the bike while riding. Almost all issues will show themselves as a voltage drop (or sharp rise in voltage), including too many accessories turned on, a dead or dying battery, or an alternator problem. Depending on the voltage regulator, running voltage should be around 14.4 volts. Voltage with a healthy battery, with the engine off, is usually around 12.8 volts. An ammeter is a useful tool when troubleshooting an electrical problem, but less useful, imo, when looking at amps from a single location on a bike. It might not show things like a dead cell in a battery or a faulty voltage regulator (overly high voltage). It will only show total amps coming or going from 1 location. If put on the battery lead, it would show you if you're drawing more amps than the alternator can feed, via a negative number, and show you that the battery is charging while you're riding, a positive number, but that's about it. just my 2 cents
  5. atlm
    I don't know if the RSTD has the same mounts as an RSV. If so, the Utopia is adjustable, both height and front to back. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37060&highlight=drivers+backrest
  6. atlm
    OMG, ROFL! I can't decide which of those 3 is the funniest! :rotf:
  7. atlm
    I got one a few weeks ago from Advance Auto Parts in their electrical section for about $7. 15 amp relay, looks just like the one that came with my Stebel horn. I can post the part number if you have an Advance store near you and are need it.
  8. atlm
    Never mind. I just bought some from eBay.
  9. atlm
    FYI, I just found out from Harbor Freight that the Wolo Bad Boy Chrome horn is only available online, not in stores. That means shipping added and no discount coupon, which brings the price to $49 instead of $32. Still cheaper than what I paid for my chrome Stebel, and still has nicer looking chrome than the Stebel version (imo). Just not the crazy cheap deal I thought.
  10. atlm
    I hope this thread gets deleted, as this is far too political, and too much of an emotional issue for many of us. Anyone who doesn't think global warming is real should talk to the polar bears who are starving to death because the ice is melting so early every year that they can't get food. With all due respect, please please spend the time to educate yourself.
  11. atlm
    That's great news! We're looking forward to riding again with the 2 of you this summer.
  12. atlm
    Yes, that. Home-duty color laser printers can be had for $100 during sales. There are black and white lasers that regularly go for $50 on sale. Their per-page printing costs are super low compared to inkjet printers. They can be used as infrequently as you like without any clogging issues. The only shortcoming of these low cost lasers is their inability to produce quality prints of pictures. They'll print decent pictures, just not the same quality as some of the better inkjets. If you print a lot, you'll save money in the long run on an office-duty laser printer, as their toner cartridges will typically last around 10,000 pages or more, as opposed to the ~2000 pages from the home models. Although that depends, also. I've printed about 800 pages on my newest home color laser, mostly just text (not pictures) and the original cartridges still show about 3/4 full. If you're looking to print pictures (to frame and share), I'd recommend an inkjet for that purpose, as a color laser capable of printing pictures at the same quality is pricey. And then get a laser for everything else. Printer manufacturers figured out that most buyers of home printers look mostly at the price of the unit, not at the price of toner/ink. So, most manufacturers price their home printers at close to break-even prices, and then make all of their profits through the toner/ink. A lot of aftermarket companies figured that out and started selling toner/ink at prices significantly lower than the factory brands, while still making a healthy profit. Then the manufacturers started putting chips into their toner/ink to try to prevent the other companies from taking their large profits. Then the other manufacturers came up with chips of their own. And it goes on. The moral of that story is to carefully look at the per-page prices of replacement toner/ink for any unit you buy. Most inkjet cartridges I've purchased cost between $20-$30 and last about 200 pages. Most toner cartridges I've purchased cost between $40 and $80 and last between 2500 and 10,000 pages, which is much more cost effective.
  13. atlm

    website problem

    atlm replied to Condor's topic in Watering Hole

    That happened to me yesterday, also. Just yesterday, and just on this website. Was fine the day before, and seems fine today. Wasn't a big deal, and I thought it was my computer, but I was curious, also.
  14. atlm
    I'd like one please. Thanks for doing this! That's a great drawing with the specs. Is that from a CAD program?
  15. atlm
    With all due respect, I don't understand some of the responses. How is this concept different than heated gear for the winter, which no one seems to have an issue with? I've said many times that I'd love to have A/C on the bike in the hot summer months. 1 red light is all it takes to be soaked in sweat, and Atlanta gives you a lot more than 1. I sent them an email asking if they plan to have a 2-person model. I could make a hose adapter easy enough, but it comes with a vest that disperses the cool (or hot) air, and I'd need 2 of those. I agree about the discount offer probably really being a way to determine market demand, but the way I figure, it can't hurt to get one. If the price is too high, just throw the coupon away.
  16. atlm
    I received my gauges from Saber yesterday in the mail. That's crazy fast shipping! And they were packed very, very well for shipping by Saber. They gauges are much nicer in real life than they look in the pictures. They're a lot bigger than I expected (a good thing). I thought they'd be small, the size of dash gauges, but they're nice and big, and will be very easy to read at a glance. They're the same as those described by Tom, with a calibration screw behind the glass and a tiny little sticker on the back that says "made in Taiwan". I will replace the hoses, as they're almost as hard as plastic, but that should only cost a couple of dollars. The restriction valves look fine, though, for the once or twice a year I'll probably use them. Thanks again everyone for all of the information!! As a side note, a few years ago some people were bashing Saber because of their own personal bad experiences. Since then, Saber seems to have changed their practices, as they have incredibly high customer feedback on eBay. Also, the only recent negative postings I saw about them have been from people who read the old posts, and were repeating what they read, not anyone having any bad experiences. From their eBay feedback, Saber seems to be going out of their way to try to make sure people are happy. From my purchase experience, I'd highly recommend them. Fast shipping, great packing job, and the best price. I'm not sure what more you could ask for.
  17. atlm
    I think it's a fantastic idea. Cooling your core should result in your head being cooler. If they're priced right, I'll probably have 2 on my RSV this summer.
  18. atlm
    It's good to see her smiling, and great that she's starting to be up and about. My prayers for a speedy recovery.
  19. atlm
    Ventures seem to be bulletproof. There are plenty around with over 150,000 miles. That said, the lower the miles, the better in general (as long as maintenance was completed properly, of couse), since resale (if for some reason you don't like it) is much easier for a low miles bike. 1999 had a few small things that were fixed in later models (antenna mounts and wotnot). The seat changed in 2001 to the pillow top on non-midnight models. Nothing else has changed since then, except the paint and engine colors. There are plenty of bikes for sale in that price range if you look hard enough, some with even less miles than 20k. Pay close attention to condition, of course. A bike that's spent its life outside in the elements is going to have a lot more wear than one that has lived in a garage. Search this forum and you can see what a lot of folks have bought their (used) Ventures for recently.
  20. atlm
    That's what I thought and hoped. That being the case, with one of Harbor Freight's constant 20% off coupons, it's $32 for that horn in chrome, which is super super low. I'm definitely going to get one just for the nicer chrome over my Stebel (chrome) horn, and relocate the Stebel somewhere less visible for a second horn.
  21. atlm
    I'd never seen the Wolo Bad Boy before. The chrome on it looks much nicer than the chrome on the Stebel. Is it the same horn with different chrome plastic on it (same volume)?? The dB is rated lower, but it doesn't give distance, so I'm wondering if it's the same thing, just measured a bit farther away from the horn than the 4" Stebel uses.
  22. atlm
    The only possible issue I can think of since reading MCN's tests of the beads is that they used a spin balancer to run the tests. Spin balancers run the wheel/tire quickly up to speed and after a very brief moment, slow back down again. The beads seem to need a bit of off-balance time to find their place, according to the ads and that video, and that would never happen on a normal spin balancer. If that is the case, it also means they wouldn't work at the dragstrip or anywhere else you have a lot of acceleration and deceleration.
  23. atlm
    I'm not sure if you've done this yet, but I'd recommend checking the ground connection to the Stebel. From what I've read, corroded ground connections are the most common culprit for faulty Stebels. I use dialectric grease on most bike connections as a preventative measure. just a thought
  24. atlm
    I did a lot of comparing of the pictures of the "non-Emgo" gauges at SportingForLess and the gauges being sold by every other reseller, which are all listed as Emgos, and they look identical to me, also. Every detail is the same, down to the colors and writing on the gauge faces. Also, on 3 of the other websites (including JCW), the only complaint about the Emgo gauges in the user reviews are about the cheap hoses, which mirrors Tom's experience with those from SFL. So, I totally agree that SportingForLess appears to be trying to trick people into buying theirs, which makes me not want to buy anything from them. The price differences from store to store are nuts, ranging from $52 to over $120 shipped. Saber's price on eBay is the lowest I've found, so I just ordered a set from them. Thanks for all the information!!
  25. atlm
    As we all know, there are a lot of "statistics" and "measurements" claimed in manufacturer advertisements that count on the lack of consumer education to generate sales. This has been called "lies through statistics". If you're interested in sound level measurements, this should give you enough of a taste to let you know there's a lot more to it than some number of dB: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decibel I have a few books on the subject, but they're more useful for designing sound systems than for purchasing a horn. So, since most folks looking for a loud horn have zero interest in getting a thorough education in sound level measurements, an easier way to find the loudest horn is to hear them side by side, or to ask others who have heard them side by side. I can share my experience. I've accidentally beeped my truck horn in my garage, and it was unpleasant. I accidentally beeped the Stebel horn on my previous bike while in my garage, and it was painful, with my ears ringing for quite a while afterwards. Now I wear earplugs whenever working on the Stebel, just in case. Part of that is the frequency. The Stebel is a mix of medium and high frequencies, like a group of people shrieking at the same time, only louder, where car horns are usually more of a low/medium frequency, which carries farther outside due to the longer sound waves, but isn't quite as obnoxious, and a train's horn is at an even lower mix of frequencies, and can travel for miles. Since the Stebel's primary use on a motorcycle is for things happening relatively close to the motorcycle (within 100 ft), rather than a block or a mile away, the medium/high frequencies are extremely effective, based on personal experience. If someone made a horn as loud as those on trains for use on motorcycles, I'd guess most of us would have one just for the added fun factor to let cagers know they've done something stupid. Unfortunately, with today's technologies, that would be too heavy and not cost effective, where the Stebel is light, inexpensive, and very effective.
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