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Craigs87

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Everything posted by Craigs87

  1. Craigs87
    Before I did the mods I had no indication of oil in the air box. But a compression check is most likely in order now. It will at least give me a baseline for future issues. Craig
  2. Craigs87
    I mistakenly listed the change of TCI as number 8 when in fact it was the first change and the MPG did not change. The MPG reduction was after the 1-7 items where done over a weekend. I also neglected to point out that I am using the Igitech TCI without a MAP sensor or TPS. Looking over the attachment Gary posted I realized that I was enriching the mix and not leaning it, so I will adjust the mixture back to 2.25 turns first as Dave has his set and deal with the exhaust popping to see if that makes a positive change in MPG. After that I will take Brian's TCI settings and start playing more with those to see if I get any positive change. I am not noticing any bogging down. Addition of the MAP sensor will be the follow on change after these adjustments. Thanks for the ideas, I had a feeling I did something wrong. Craig
  3. Craigs87
    I did the mods on my 87'VR and the gas milage has dropped. 1) All 4 Carb. Diaphragms replaced 2) Needle Shim Mod (Removed Nylon spacer and replaced with S.S. washers, .050 thinner than Nylon spacer) 3) Crankcase Vent Mod 4) Carb. Sync (purchased sync gage manifold) 5) Adjusted Mixture to 3 turns from bottom. 6) New Plugs 7) New Wires 8) Aftermarket TCI The bike starts great, runs good, Idle is set at 1k, no more exhaust popping after I adjusted mixture from 2.5 to 3 turns from bottom. Before the mods I was getting 38 MPG now after the last 4 tankfuls of gas, I have been getting 33 MPG. No change in riding style and over the same daily route to and from work. I checked the carb sync after 300 miles and all was still good. I have put 500 miles on the bike since the mods. Any ideas where I went wrong? My TCI Settings: RPM_ADV 1300 1700 2100 2600 3100 3600 4200 4800 5500 6000 5 10 16 19 25 30 35 36 37 37 When I changed plugs I went from (NIPPONDENSO) X24EPR-U9 to (NGK) DPR8EA-9 with the gap set at .035" Craig
  4. Craigs87
    My upper reflector has three screw post on it with acorn nuts on the inside of the trunk. Here are some pics of my LED adds to the rear end.
  5. Craigs87
    Took the bike to work this morning and still getting popping noise when I let off the throttle. Don't think I have a vacuum leak but will have to check. I am running the V80 TCI with TVKING63's non-MAP sensor file which is for the V75 I believe. Bike runs good except for the popping and on the way home noticed the temp gauge was above center and running a little warm for an 85 degree day. Only about 5 miles of non Interstate on my 22 mile commute from work 2 miles at the beginning and 2.5 at the end. I only hit the first red light at the beginning while the bike was still warming up. Up to now the bike has run at mid range all along. Could be my imagination so will keep an eye on it in the morning and again on the way home tomorrow. Sure felt good to be back on two wheels!!! Craig
  6. Craigs87
    New Starter Clutch in and everything reassembled. The wining noise stopped and the engine turned over but would not start. Loaded Dingy's No Map program and it fired right up. So much for plug n play with the factory settings on the Ignitech module. Went for a short spin and the throttle response is incredible! Felt like I was back on a crouch rocket instead of a cruiser. Still have some slight popping but could be the gas. I will take it to work tomorrow and get a good 45 mile round trip test. Thanks for all the help and tips, we are back in the saddle again!!! Craig
  7. Craigs87
    I got the flywheel off today, not much of an issue just popped right off. Took the starter clutch off and found one plunger was stuck fully into the body and not apply pressure that the roller. Then found a crack. New clutch assembly on order. Craig
  8. Craigs87
    Will call you in a few minutes. Craig
  9. Craigs87
    Crank is/was not turning. I tried Cap'n's push start suggestion and the engine turned over. Hit the starter button after trying to push start it and it caught and tried to start. Looks like the starter clutch is the real culprit. I swapped the blue wires on the Ignitech to match Gary's drawing and it wants to start. Just wondering if the other two sets of wires are not also reversed. Right now I have the battery charging. Craig
  10. Craigs87
    Have found some other discrepancies with my plugs and your drawing. On Ignitech end plug: Pin 2 is Yellow/black going to correct pin on 8 pin bike harness end instead of pin 11. Pin 11 is red/black going to correct 8 pin bike harness end instead of pin 2. In other words it looks like on the Ignitech end plug these wire are reversed. same with pins 9 and 20. Yellow on pin 9 and brown on pin 20 but correct on 6 pin bike harness end. My unit is marked 4CH v80 Craig
  11. Craigs87
    My blue wires are reversed from what is shown in the drawing you posted. Craig
  12. Craigs87
    I did have the left crank case cover off and had the foresight, for once, to order a new gasket in advance. Installed it and sealant. Good thing to know and will go right in down in the maintenance manual. Craig
  13. Craigs87
    I think I have the problem figured out. Gary hit it on his first response. And I did not recognize the clues in Jeff's response. Tach did not move and no gas in cylinders. Last night I put the new Ignitech TCI on and went thru the entire starting system checking resistance and voltages, every thing was good until I got to the coils. Resistance was good on primary and secondary. Was getting 12.5VDC with ignition on. Hit the starter button and the voltage dropped to 11.3VDC. Not good. Pulled a plug and grounded to case, still no spark. That is when it hit me. The plug was bone dry not damp like it should be if gas was getting to the cylinder. I also did not hear a puff of air like I should have. Put my finger over the hole and hit the button, no compression release. Crank not turning means to voltage generated to fire the plugs. This means the starter does not have enough umph to crank the motor. Even tho the starter checks good resistance and turns under power on the bench does not mean it is good enough to do the job. The noise I hear is the starter straining not the engine turning over. I guess the gas I had smelled must have be residual from the last time it did actually try and turn over. Once I get the NEW starter in and the Ignitech TCI programmed I should be good again. I guess I was hung up on what I had already done and not what was actually happening. Thanks for the help. Craig
  14. Craigs87
    PM sent. I appreciate the help this thing has been down for a couple weeks now. Craig
  15. Craigs87
    No spark at the plugs. Have tested the coils good. Readings were in the 99-101 Omns range for all four. Gas is getting to engine. You can smell it. So far all resistance readings are good thru out the starting system (except the TCI checks Gary pointed out.) Will try those checks tonight. The second TCI I borrowed from an '86 VR that is being parted out. I ordered the Czech TCI last week and DHL delivered it this morning so will try it this evening after work. Craig
  16. Craigs87
    Also have used two regulator/rectifiers with no change. Craig
  17. Craigs87
    No spark at the plugs. It sounds like the engine is turning but no fire to the plugs. Should have said the kill switch in "Run". This has been going on for a while and progressively getting worse. Longer periods before the engine fires. Gas is getting to the engine. When you turn on the ignition you can hear the fuel pump. New fuel filter about 1K miles ago. I don't think it is the starter. One is the OEM 2 contact which I have had open, cleaned and tested the coils. The other is an after market 4 contact and it has been opened, cleaned and coils tested. Both good torque on bench test too. Really perplex at this point. Really though the new TCI would correct it. Craig
  18. Craigs87
    I have a 1987 VR that when you hit the starter button there is a whining noise of the starter turning but not fire. Right now it is on the center stand, in neutral, kick stand up, kill switch on position. No change with the clutch held in either. New plugs New wires New TCI New Starter relay New Battery Starter checks good (have used two with no change) Following the troubleshooting guide in the maintenance manual good ohm readings on: Pickup coils Stator Coils Connectors all clean. Craig
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