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lsutley
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Everything posted by lsutley
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Beautiful job. I am continually amazed by the talents displayed by the VR the members. You should be proud of your accomplishment. :happy34:
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spin on oil filter adapter
lsutley replied to wkoepke's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
If you look closely you may notice that the one on ebay used a smaller filter. The one from Buckeye uses a larger filter but the selection of elements is critical as some are too large in diameter to clear the front frame rail. The Fram filter pictured on the Buckeye site fits nicely. -
Those of you that suggested that the tire may not have been seated properly are probably on target. I just returned from a test ride and the performance of the tire was remarkably different. There was no "hopping", at any speed, and there is no noticeable vibration, either. When I checked the tire beads there did not seem to be any Dyna Beads imbedded in the rubber and there was was no damage from the tire irons. The Dyna Beads were inserted during the last portion of the tire bead being slid over the rim and were contained in the "pocket" formed by the sidewall. The tire is as supplied from the manufacturer and the various patterns of the interior ribbing seem to catch the beads and very few were loose. I have not heard of anyone breaking down a tire, this soon after installing the Dyna Beads, to make a determination as to what the initial characteristics might be. Those of you that have seen the results from a lengthy installation might see a very different scenario. An assumption and lack of attention to details, on my part, could have proved very costly. As luck would have it, a lesson was learned, without the hard knocks. The jury is still out on the Dyna Beads. Again, thanks for the advice,
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Thanks for all the tips and information. I removed the tire this morning and broke it down to inspect for damage and to move the "spot" to the valve stem position. The beads were found to be fairly evenly distributed on the interior of the tire. They seemed to be stuck to the tire and were not rolling around. The beads would not come loose from the tire using a shop vac and I eventually used compressed air to blow them off. When I install a tire I use soap on a rag to lube the tire and rim to prevent excess water from entering the tire. The beads were just stuck to the rubber. How they relocate to find the light spot on the tire is a mystery to me? I made sure that the beads both popped and were evenly seated (something that was not done previously). When I do race tires and they do not seat I dribble them off the garage floor to force a seat. Motorcycle tires are easier to dribble. I did put in another 2 oz. of beads and will give this another try. I am out the door.
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I have a conundrum concerning the installation of a new front tire on my 86. Part of the problem is probably of my own making and the remainder remains a mystery to me. I installed a new Dunlap E3 and put in 2 oz. of the Dyna Beads. Since this was my first motorcycle tire self-replacement I took my time and read the posts and even watched a video on tire changing. Removed the old tire, polished the rim, removed all the old weights etc. Installed the new tire (MR90-18 71H) and put in the beads, aired it up and everything looked fine. Took the bike out for a ride and did maybe 100 miles. The front tire exhibited a noticeable hopping at low speeds and more so on starts from a standing stop. The the "hopping" disappeared when the speed was increased to above 10 mph or so. The problem: took the bike out for another run and pushed it up into the 80+ mph range (fast for the curvy roads around here). No problems noted until some more vibrations of a much higher frequency developed at higher speeds. When I returned home and was about to turn into my drive the front started a violent head shake. I was rolling right along at the time and was on the front and rear brakes to slow down and turn. The "hopping" was very noticeable and then the head shaking began. Could not turn into the drive and coasted to the neighbors drive and found that the front tire was completely flat and had come off the safety bead on one side. Naturally the Dyna Beads were all over the neighbors drive. Walked home, picked up the air tank and returned to the bike and pumped up the tire, as if nothing had happened. It is still holding 40 psi this morning. My part of the problem is that I put the 'light spot" opposite the valve stem, in reverse of the accepted method. Now what the heck is the remainder of the cause of the tire loosing all the air in a few seconds with no apparent reasons? This experience is certainly not a confidence builder. Any help would be greatly appreciated. PS: As this bike is normally ridden with a side car attached the rake of the triple tree has been increased by about 7 degrees. I was not riding with the car attached when this occurred.
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Thanks guys. I did not pull the entire rack, only the intake boots, where the leaks were detected. After the reassembly the RPM's, with the previous idle setting, increased by 500. Reset the idle to 1000 and tried the spritz, with Zep I.D. Red, again and the RPM's increased when the boot to carb area was targeted. The rack could be misaligned from previous repair processes and could certainly be a possibility. Other "adjustments" that have been found have lead me to believe that all were not approached with the fix it once mentality. After reading all the comments, regarding the problems created by the vacuum leaks, I wanted to eliminate any chance that that might be the source of a problem before re-syncing the carbs. They were synced last year and the RPM's would continuously rise as high as 3000 (without changing the idle setting). Each time the idle was returned to the correct range, for a sync operation, and adjustments resumed, the idle RPM's would rise until all settings were finally dialed in with all the vacuum readings equal and in range the idle stop screw was set to the 1000 point. Bike ran better but not really well. Decided that the vacuum leaks should be eliminated before trying to re-sync the carbs and now another problem has been detected. One of the boots was found to have previously slipped when I did the first leak test and I cannot seem to eliminate the cause. If the consensus is that the entire rack is misaligned, then out they come for a trip to the granite surface plate.
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I have been diligently reading all the carburetor posts and articles hoping that I would discover the secrets to remedy the problems with mine. I have only been partially successful thus far. I did find vacuum leaks between the boots from the air-box to the top of the carbs. Took it all apart, cleaned and reassembled. Started up and there was still a leak, a boot had slipped off of the carb. I have redone this process several times and the boots will not stay on top of the carbs when enough force is applied to stop the leaks. Is this a problem that is familiar to anyone?
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I can see that you have taken your solemn duty, as a grandparent, very seriously! The responsibilities of being a proper grandparent are not to be taken lightly. I think that we can all see that you are completely committed to live up to those very stringent guidelines. Our daughter fully understands, when her daughters visit, that it is PAYBACK TIME! Enjoy them while they still think that you are not too old to know anything.
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My wife and the pup can both ride in the sidecar. I also haul groceries, lumber, truck parts and the grand-kids, to mention only a few possibilities!
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I have been reading, with considerable interest, the posts concerning the various riding styles of different members. My 86 has an attached sidecar because that is the only way I can persuade my wife to accompany me on the bike. She is frightened of having "another accident". We were attending a meeting of the Cavilcade Owners Group in Fulton, NY, one Saturday morning, in the late fall. The weather was cold and there was a chance of a rain/snow mix that day. We drove the car to our designated restaurant and had a great time until the remainder of the group talked us into going for a bike ride. Went home, got the bike, came back and away we went. As you can imagine the weather did turn bad with a snow and rain mix that made the ride less than enjoyable. Curvy roads are always better, for an afternoon ride, and our leader took us on some of Oswego County's best. All was well until cresting a hill, in a reversed banked right hand curve, only look down and see most of the group stopped at an intersection, about 100 yards below. Not a panic situation but one that called for some firm braking and alert operation due to the weather. No sooner had I started to apply the brakes when the bike went down on the right side like flipping a pancake. Neither one of us was injured but the bike sustained $3,800.00 worth of damage and was out of commission for the entire winter. Rode it home in the spring, polished the chrome and sold it, as Carol refused to ride under any circumstances. The accident scared some of the other wives and the group gradually shut us out, I suppose to eliminate the reminder? Staying within your comfort zone can not only make a ride more enjoyable but can potentially save your life!! If you take the responsibility for leading a group of riders, be prepared to accommodate the the slowest participants. Group riders, if you know that the leader is prone to dragging the pegs, opt out if that is not your style!! Do not try to persuade anyone to go along by shaming them because of their riding style. Our style is our style, our comfort zone is our safest operating format, stay in there and enjoy without any regrets that your pegs still have the end caps.
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I have, both a stock and a custom Travelcade seat for a MKII. If you, or anyone, else are interested, please PM me and we can negotiate the price and delivery. More pictures are available.
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I have a complete assembly from my 86. It was replaced with a Progressive unit and was working fine when removed.
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I worked in the Miller Brewery in Fulton, NY for 19 years. The winter snow is brutal but the riding opportunities are endless.
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If you are referring to the rear "punkin", I have one from my 86, that was replaced with a VMax unit. I also have the rear shock assembly, that was replaced with a Progressive unit.
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Rick, You just made my day!!! The hinge style and the gas strut locations are more in the placement and style that I would prefer. Thanks for taking the time to help. All the best,
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Thanks, to all, for your information, encouragement and good wishes. Fuzzy, I am planning on proceeding as if this were a boat project. Glass over a wood framework of "spars" and braces, to form the shapes of the mating surfaces, and any interior modifications that are needed. What is your experience with imbedding metal reinforcement plates in the glass? I am considering a different method of mounting the hinge to the car other than a weld to steel side braces, which in my case would be glassed over wood. The lower hinge mount could be bolted through to the frame but the upper attachment would be secured to a plate, imbedded in the glass, under the nose. Rick, Your links worked just fine. Great batch of pictures, my daughter and son-in-law are stationed in Norfolk. I am planning on using the gas struts for maintaining the lid in the open position. I do not like where Motorvation placed the factory units as they significantly restrict the entry/exit area. A more powerful unit that is shorter, and can be mounted closer to the hinge, is what I am considering at this point. A preloaded torsion spring, installed in the hinge, could offset a considerable amount of weight for the shocks to support? Could you supply a picture of where, and how, your struts are installed?
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The deed, she is done! After a couple of days of coiling up inside the sidecar with a grinder the split is complete. I guess that there is no turning back at this point and I may as well finish what I started. Many thanks to mini-muffin and muffinman for their generous contribution of detailed photos of the Motorvation hardware.
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Watched my nephew go over the handlebars yesterday.
lsutley replied to spitfire9's topic in Watering Hole
Truer words were never spoken! -
Did you have yours tinted? If you did, what color and do you like it?
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I bought my 86 with the sidecar attached. Two reasons that are kind of on the piratical side; it is easier for the passenger to use the car than climbing on the bike, and two the space between the seats is getting smaller. There are very few sidecar rigs on the road, estimated at only 2% of registered motorcycles. They are just a blast to drive (notice I did not say ride) and they seem to draw a lot of attention. The techniques to drive the rig are different than the trike and a lot different from two wheels. Your first sharp right hand turn, at a speed, a little higher than expected, can be a "Come to Jesus" moment, if you are not a trained or experienced sidecar driver. My wife refuses to ride anywhere, other than in the sidecar. The seat is like a sofa. There are several groups that cater to sidecars only. The one that I like the best is SCT (Sidecar Talk) on Yahoo Groups. The link is SCT@yahoogroups.com. There are a lot of different types of sidecars. They handle differently and the passanger comfort levels are all over the map. Do your research, attend a sidecar rally, ask a lot of questions and make your decision based on your own information and experiences. You will get many opinions (some a bit overbearing). I love the sidecar, my opinion!! Try it, you may be as hooked as I am!
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Side Effects modified the tree for my 86 two years ago. When I installed the new units the tubes slid into the the mounts just like butter. They did a beautiful job and the results are great. Rides straight and true, no ditch diving! Would recommend them for anyone with a sidecar or trike conversion.
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Here are some "specs" for the Goliath Frog!!
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I can't fully express my gratitude for taking the time to take and send the pictures. The ruler for reference pictures are especially helpful. I now have a much clearer picture of what Mary at Motorvation was trying to explain concerning the difficulty with splitting a previously assembled car. With your help with the construction information and Clive's help with the fiberglass work, I may be on a roll. Again thanks so very much,
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Clive, Thanks for your input. I am headed out to our local marina to get some more information regarding the proper resins and cloth, mat, or roving materials. I do not have a great deal of experience with this size of a glass project and it has to be right the first time. With the current supporting frame design and the lack of rigidity of the "floor" the short sides that remain on the bottom half are likely to loose their desired shape. If I add a frame extension to provide complete perimeter support for the floor and install an 1 inch square tube loop on the inside edge that should keep everything ship shape. Your explanation of the method, that you suggest would lead me to believe that you have some experience with this type procedure. My density barrier is on high today and I cannot visualize the process that your suggesting. My plan is now to coat the plywood on all sides and edges with epoxy resin and let cure to the "green stage". Apply a layer of 10 oz, cloth and epoxy resin to the underside of the car and lay on the wood. Attach with a couple of SS screws to keep in place and turn the car over and put 20 or so SS screws through the floor into the wood. This should flatten the bottom to the wood and yield a proper bond. Once fully cured the protruding screw tips would be ground smooth and the wood would be glassed over with 3 layers of cloth and resin. During the final overlay steps the rounded perimeter would be extended and integrated smoothly into the original contour of the body. The left curved lower edge will need to be extended/reformed into a more square shape to properly sit out onto the surface of the frame. The upper body portion "lid" will also require the installation of a tubing hoop for shape retention along with a substrate for the weather seal. The hoop will serve as the upper hinge attachment and for the attachment of a hoop up around, under and behind the dash and down the inside to the hoop for stiffening. I believe the interior steel bracing will be welded before installing inside using an epoxy glue and countersunk pop rivets spaced every 2 inches through the body in to the tube. The reason for the relocation of the separation location, from factory specs, is to allow an extended opening to make entry and exiting the car easier. Motorvation makes the cut to coincide with the location of the wheel well box which is square and will need to be reformed to a rounded shape to allow the cut to be further to the rear for more room. The reshaping of the wheel well box is necessary to provide adequate spindle stub clearance when the body is shifted to the right to clear the electric lean framework. Clive, I will be waiting on your foam/FRP laminate idea, before gluing on the food. Thanks to all. With your help this may go fairly well.
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I am now at the point of no return. Pictures are attached. Alternative ideas and criticisms are welcomed. I will post more as the surgery continues.