lsutley

Watch this video and if it does not lift your spirits, you need to watch it again! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pt3VkoUEkxE&feature=player_detailpage]Boogie-woogie - YouTube[/ame]

I know that this is an old thread but I will ask anyway; are there still parts available for the starter clutch modification. There are currently three starter clutch and rotor assemblies on ebay. Two are from the 1200's and one from a 1300. I have noticed a clunk and bang from my starter when hot. I snagged a 2003 4 pole starter for $29.00 from PinWall and am thinking that the complete package might be in order. Send the spare clutch and rotor for modification and maybe make a one day affair of the replacements.

I found a wide tire conversion kit, available for the Vmax, on ebay. The link is attached. The information from the post indicates that it will fit a 1985 to a 2007. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vmax-V-max-Wide-Rear-Tire-Conversion-1985-2007-210mm-wide-/160854525479?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AV-Max&hash=item2573ad4627&vxp=mtr

You might give this guy a try? http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm

Here are some shots of the repairs that are being made to the left upper fairing and cover. The tab under the mirror was nearly completely broken away, fixed as shown: [ATTACH]69715[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]69716[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]69717[/ATTACH] The embedded wire across the break sure did stiffen the tab. The left cover was broken in one corner and missing a chunk around the outer hole, under the mirror mount. Repaired as shown: [ATTACH]69714[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]69718[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]69719[/ATTACH] I had a heck of a time keeping the fairing in a position that gave good access. Jury rigged (nothing fancy but worked) as shown: [ATTACH]69720[/ATTACH] Once the wires are inserted (at least half way into the plastic) and built up with your zip tie "rod" it can look pretty scruffy. Let it cool and go back over the mound with the iron to make it as smooth as you wish. If the zip tie is melted well into the ABS, I do not believe that it is any less strong than the parent material. An old Unger soldering iron and some black zip ties, not bad and cheap!

I am currently repairing some of the cracks and missing tabs on my 86. I am using an old Unger soldering iron and black zip ties. I was able to reconstruct missing pieces using an imbedded bare #14 solid copper wire as a frame and support. On breaks that were likely to reoccur, I put in the same # 14 wire bent to conform to the shape of the contour of the area to be welded. The wire is laid in place and then heated until it melts down into the base material about half its thickness. The area is then built up using the zip ties as the filler. The zip tie material seems to melt at the nearly the same temperature as the ABS and blends without any problems. Once the wire is imbedded and covered with filler the "weld" can be reheated as required to smooth or contour the surface. If overheated the opposite "good" side can be distorted. Use a series of small tacks in the crack to hold things in place before attempting to imbed the wire. I am going to reconstructed an entire missing speed nut tab today. If this can be completed successfully, it is likely that anything can be restored with enough time and patience. Wish me luck??