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CrazyHorse

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  1. CrazyHorse
    I have put the Radiantz 1.85 " 1157 direct base leds for the brake lights from Custom Dynamics http://customdynamics.com/motorcycle_led_bulbs.htm they are very bright and look like the brakes are on and they get really bright when the brake lights are acitivated. They are so bright you can see thier outlines through the lens. Gives a different look instead of the whole lenses lighting up now you see the circular bulbs. I can post pictures if you want. Now the computer moniter says my brake light is out but I dont know if it's from the LED bulbs or Back off brake modulator causing this. I'm pretty happy with them except the computer monitor thing which I wonder if a resistor in line would help get rid of the computer monitor light. GeorgeS might know hes good with the electrical stuff.
  2. CrazyHorse
    Well using a gps my speed is off bout 7mph in low speed at high speed its off by 11 mph. I'm gonna try you idea Randy. Yes safety guy Im down to 2 bars and all I put in the tank is 2.5 gallons I like accuracy so I going do something about this too.
  3. CrazyHorse
    Thanks Randya Ill try it. I'm gonna work on my fuel sender also dont like inaccuracy in that either.
  4. CrazyHorse
    Interesting, so basically the needle is almost forced naturally to the pin so much so if the pin werent there it would go beyond it, so your resetting the 0 point then I guess is how I'm reading it right? I'm gonna try this hope I dont break it. Thanks Jim.
  5. CrazyHorse
    Is there a fix for 1st Gen Speedometer error. Mine is off 6-7 mph at 35 mph and at higher speeds it is off by 10 or more mph. Now I calculated this with those radar speed signs and by doing mile markers on the highway. (Its reading a higher speed than I'm travelling.)
  6. CrazyHorse
    I have a 1990 I assume the procedure is the same. You take the 2 phillips head screws from the bottom of the switch out. The switch then breaks in 2 and separates from the handlebars. You can now disassemble it further with various screws the trun signals and horn are towards the bottom half of the switch. . I ended up taking it all apart for both the horn and the turn signals and physically sanding the contacts a little to clean the corosion off and spray in some CRC and then reassembled them.
  7. CrazyHorse
    I understand how you feel. My signals would light up but not work on turn signal. Hazards worked fine. Heard a buzzing noise come from the hazard flasher uint. Used the shop manual troubleshooting it said my switch was bad. Totally took the switch apart and hand cleaned all contacts and then sprayed them with CRC. Still didnt work. I used the turn signal switch anyway as if it would work. Then a couple days later the signals worked fine. I had the same thing happen with the horn switch. Horns wouldnt work disassembled the switch hand cleaned all the contacts then CRC, still didnt work. Then a few days later the horns work and still work. I'm not really sure why they work now to be honest.
  8. CrazyHorse
    You have to order the specific Nolan N102 NCom there is a Nolan N102 that is not Bluetooth ready.
  9. CrazyHorse
    I was thinking the same thing about 86+ more weight in the back lightning the front wheel more of a chance to wobble . Upright seating position with weight more towards the back. Im wondering if tank slap and wobble are somewhat related big brother, little sister kinda thing. If your interesed this article from sportrider is interesting I kinda thinking that some of this applies to our bikes when we try to ride them beyond what they were designed for. http://www.sportrider.com/ride/RSS/113_0206_motorcycle_tankslappers/ When your doing tight U turns are you applying the back brake? To do a really tight U turn I apply some rear brake enough where I can turn my motorcycle in circles in a parking space and a half to two spaces (my brakes are de-linked I know alot of you frown on this and I'm the devil for saying it.) Since these bikes have linked brakes I wonder if your applying the rear brake activating the left front brake causing some of the flex you describe (one sided pressure on left side). Just a thought. Jim
  10. CrazyHorse
    I wonder if your starter clutch is cracked I remeber reading something bout that somewhere.
  11. CrazyHorse
    Yes I read about trying 0-30 here but I have to tell you very disturbing feel especially cornering and if there is any even slight bumpiness in the turn very uneasy feeling the fork damping is almost non exsistant I will be changing it soon.
  12. CrazyHorse
    I bought the torx tamper resistant torx drivers at auto zone for 10 bucks I think.
  13. CrazyHorse
    I'm wondering if there is a difference between the early models like you have or the later ones like mine in terms of weight distribution somehow affecting things. Yes I'm a bigger man 6'02 260lbs. Im just talking head shakes with no hands like Gearhead has. Mine is fine up to 110 with hands on bars.
  14. CrazyHorse
    Yes I was thinking the same thing damping is less I tried a 0-30 oil as an experiment and I think that has given me the bounce effect I described. Im going the other extreme now going with a 15wt and see what happens. I did replace my fork seals and the plate seats since they were both worn out.
  15. CrazyHorse
    I think it would since if your diaphram leaked from holes or tears it would not be able to fully pull the needle out thus not delivering more fuel. They are easy to change four screws on the side silver covers of each carb. Try looking at the sliders (part of the diaphram setup) through the top of the airbox with the motor running and see if each one is moving in a pattern with the others. Rev it a little a see what they do. Take them out and use a flashlight and see if you see light through the rubber of the diaphram (ie meaning holes etc.) flatoutmotrcycles.com usually has the best prices for diaphrams about 55 bucks each.
  16. CrazyHorse
    Too bad they dont make a new 1st Gen style based on the FJR1300 that has a nice beefy frame and is nice performing machine just would like to see a bigger version with radio/cb,better seats etc.
  17. CrazyHorse
    Yea your right George their frames are much beefier. Do you think the ventures reach a harmonic stage quicker because of the flimsy frame. I'd be interested to know if all 1st Gen's shake in the 40 mph range w/o hands. From my experience I dont have any in the 25 mph range I do in the 35-40 range, and dont seem to have it above that anyone else? I have superbrace, all solid mounts in, avons filled to 40 psi, progressive springs, using mid range rear shock psi, no air in front, rear damper at 3.
  18. CrazyHorse
    I installed the Diamond star headlight modulator. My question is both my headlight warning lights are now on the computer how do I go about turning them off? Thanks Jim.
  19. CrazyHorse
    Supposedly all bikes will do it at some speed.
  20. CrazyHorse
    I have the same issue 35-40 mph,not below that and not above that. I have progressives, all of the solid motor mounts mounted, superbrace, brand new avons I was running at around 40 psi. Like I said before Im running 0w-030 in the forks. My bearings in the wheels appeared to be good and I greased them. I'ts my feeling that is has to do with front end either the bearings or fork setup (the type of springs, preload, oil, and oil level) , and since everyone has different weights and heights (front to rear weight balance) maybe this is why not everyone experiance it. Im gonna play around with different combos and see what I come up with.
  21. CrazyHorse
    My local motorcycle mechanic friend related to me bearings too tight in his experiance produced a back and forth weave. Gearhead Im using 0-30 Oil currently and am getting an annoying bounce it feels like out of the front suspension. Im trying new things to get a feel how they affect the bike. So Im gonna try 15 wt see what it does I think the answer will lie somewhere in between.
  22. CrazyHorse
    Well I have a problem with my turn signals they work on emergency flash and they burn fine when the bike is running but when I try to use the turn signal all I get is a buzzing noise from the flasher/hazard relay. Bought a used one from Pinwall cycle parts same thing buzzing noise. I attempted to clean the contacts in the switch. Is there a voltage I should look for at the main connector to the flasher/hazard relay? Thanks Jim
  23. CrazyHorse
    When I put stainless lines on my bike it was a bear to bleed. I also used speed bleeders. Well with the speed bleeders on lines that had no fluid in them since they were new. I could not get the lines to bleed so I put the old bleeders back on and used a mity vac to create suction on the lines with bleeder open of course. This worked just had to make sure you kept fluid in the master while the lines filled up. Then I put the speed bleeders back on which work great when the line is mostly filled with fluid. So create suction from a brake bleeder or some sort of vacuum pump and make sure your bleeder is open and make sure you keep master full of fluid until the lines are full.
  24. CrazyHorse
    Rode Harleys regularly I found myself only using the very back edge of the floorboard like a peg. I guess I never felt comfortable with the floor board. I just like the pegs better I guess.
  25. CrazyHorse
    I have tried let go of the bars at 25 40 and 70 at 25 no amplifying tank slap, at 40 though it starts to really amplify, at 70 no slap. Im running new Avons, have all 6 solid mounts in and have greased the rear linkage,superbrace, and have progressive springs but I used a couple parts from the original unit as the spacer instead of the plastic they gave me, I cant remember what they are called off the top of my head they total about 3/4-1" Now I tried 0-30 weight oil like Denden was saying he uses. I also replaced the plate seats in the bottom of the fork when I changed the oil seals. I noticed while riding in this configuration it feels like I dont have enough damping effect almost like the front is too bouncy (making the front feel a little squirelly) I m going to go in the opposite direction and try 15 wt oil and use the spacer provided by progressive and see if that improves the situation. Test it and see how the suspension reacts I suspect the answer will somewhere inbetween. I also have read somewhere that the Venture's front wheel is offset from the rear wheel by 1 Cm I wonder if this contributes to a wobble in a sweeping turn especially if it a little bumpy. I'm totally theorizing here and dont know for sure. Like a tank slap (similar type motion) to the head shake where our more upright riding position (many of us try to ride these like a sport bike where more weight is naturally foward due to riding position) putting more weight toward the rear lightining the front tire causing the front tire to lift off the pavement (from a slight bump) and come down outside the alignment of the rear (which I guess is already not really in alignment) when the tire comes back on the pavement causing the tire to deflect to the other side creating a viscious cycle of head shake. I also notice in my own experiance in sweeping turns if I am smooth on the controls not disrupting the suspension through my actions (throttle control, brake control etc) I dont seem to have as much shake. Rick any comments or ideas on this? I also read your article on calculating what springs you use which I thought was great.
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