Kirby

I guess if you gotta haul one, It looks better behind a camper. :clap2::clap2:

Just don't try to power anything like a air pump with it. It'll blow the fuse. I think all it will allow is 5 amps max. Maybe someone else will correct me if I'm wrong.

I'll bet he was hurt. He just didn't know it at the time.

I think there might be an option that includes a cassette player with a tape that you play while riding. It goes potato, potato, potato. :rotf::rotf:

Eck, this is what you have to install on a metric bike to make it feel like a HD. Side effects are blurred vision, numb butt, and parts start falling off. :301::rotf::rotf:

Install risers or bars with more pull back to get you off the tank. You'll fall in love with the bike then.

:think: :confused24::confused24:

You also need to remove the large snap ring and pull out the drive pins (fingers) and clean, inspect, and lube as well as their mating holes.

Before you go trying to adjust carbs, check your fuel filter or a partially kinked fuel line. Seems to me you're saying it runs fairly well until it gets the rpms up to the point the carbs are running out of fuel.

On my 09 every time I change the rear tire I make sure to tighten the front caliper bracket bolt( the one that bolts the caliper to the swingarm, which the hole is also slotted) last thing after installing the caliper. This lets the caliper center up the pads to the rotor. This helps the pads wear a little more evenly.

Try Sierra electronics. Or maybe Edsets, J&M, or IMC.

Did you check oil level with the bike off the side stand and in upright position? Oil level should not be over half way sight glass or it will blow it out the crankcase breather tube after a spirited run.

How about " Ole Three-Legged Dog"? :big-grin-emoticon:

Yep, 4 screws inside bag, one bolt near rear axle, and clamp on front of muffler. Be careul not to lose the spacer between the bag and frame inthe top rear position.

And if you ever have a case of gout in your left big toe, you'll appreciate that clown shifter.

I used a gps for speedometer but got tired of having to take the thing off and remounting it when I was out of sight of the bike so I bought the Speedohealer and corrected my speedometer with the gps using a correction factor of 7.9%. Now the odometer is off a little but if I want to check my mpg, I just add back 7.9%. The odometer was fairly accurate to begin with.

Mostly ride solo with 0-3 in front and 30 in rear. Two up I use 5-6 in front and 45 in rear.

You can't put 1 Gen mufflers on a 2nd Gen. If you do, other things will start falling off and it'll be in the garage more than on the road.

Skid, I ain't forgot about you! Still praying.

Fuel filters don't have to be hard to get to. You can put it anywhere you have room, from the petcock to the pump. Make it easy on yourself.

I have to agree. My 09 came with 404's. I got 14,450 miles out of the front and 12,800 out of the rear. Just been using something different ever since. BTW, Conti Tour was gone in less than 6,000 miles. Same with Shinko on my Vmax. I keep records of all my tires and maintenance just for comparison.

Whats wrong with the stock serup?

"King George" Strait

Beautiful, thanks for posting Puc.

Ok guys the date on the tire is 2511. It was installed on 10/13/12 by myself as I do all my own tire mounting. The tire currently has approx. 11,500 miles on it and is around 3 years old. This is the second E3 I've had on the front of this bike and the first got 25,225 miles on it. I run 38-40psi in the front as with the previous E3. I ride the bike daily as weather(rain) permits. Keep it under a carport year round. I'm like the rest here and am baffled by the cracking because of the good rep these tires have in the past. I'm just wanting to try the MCII on the front because of the good performance of the rear tire so far. If the MCII doesn't give as good service as the E3 has in the past , then the next tire will be another E3. My thanks to all but especially Dion for the feedback after actually having tried the MCII front narrower tire.