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warthogcrewchief

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Everything posted by warthogcrewchief

  1. warthogcrewchief
    I've repainted other motorcycle engine parts before with Dupli-color's engine enamel. They make their engine enamels in a variety of colors including clear. The clear also has a heat temp of around 500 degrees. I've used it on other motorcycles and have had good luck (repainted the parts back in 1995 and they're still looking great!). Everything that has the "aluminum" look was painted with it, then clear coated. The frame was also painted with it in gloss black and no clear coat was used for that. As you can see in the pic, they still looks good except where my father decided to use engine de-greaser on the painted engine. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/1985XJ700.jpg
  2. warthogcrewchief
    If you're looking for a CMS, I have a spare one that the a few of the icons on the LCD do not completely show up (probably just the cold soldiering of the connection). Everything seems to work. If you feel it's a CMS, send me a PM and we can work something out.
  3. warthogcrewchief
    I think this should be added to the Tech library.
  4. warthogcrewchief
    I know the Yamaha valve tools say they are for different bikes. When we worked on a Yamaha in my motorcycle maint. course (usually an XJ), we used the Suzuki tool because the bolt-on valve tool was more effort than needed. We noticed there were slight differences in the side groove, but caused no problems. The only thing the tool does is lower the shim bucket from the cam lobe just enough to either get a feeler gauge in or remove the shim. They should all work decently. The only thing I think that could be a factor was clearance from the handle end (easily fixed by cutting/griding off the handle).
  5. warthogcrewchief
    I would love to get a hold of the Charcoal one for $12 plus shipping. Let me know if you have any charcoal ones!
  6. warthogcrewchief
    I found a while back, while attending a motorcycle maintenance course, that the valve tappet tool (for shim over setup) designed for suzuki also works on Yamaha. Here is an example of the tool we used...and I think it works better than the little thing Yamaha sells. As for actual shims. The shim in the bike usually is stamped with the size (or use a caliper to measure the thickness). Using feeler gauges, one can determine how much thicker/thinner they need to go. Any motorcycle shop should carry the shims for a reasonable price, and if you did your math right, should have a perfect fit with little to none of the "musical shims" game. I'm pretty sure these valve tools will work, as they specify which ones will not fit the XVZ 1200/1300 (usually the bolt-on kind). If the link doesn't work, here's the address: http://www.maxmx.co.uk/productdetail.html?ID=3613 Other examples: http://www.sudco.com/motionpro.html#valve http://prostores2.carrierzone.com/servlet/brockracing/-strse-2165/VALVE-TOOL-2/Detail http://pitposse.com/povashto.html
  7. warthogcrewchief
    They make something like that already...but I don't think it has a built-in heat feature... I've even heard of them being adjustable from a switch the rider controls or from the engine's RPM.
  8. warthogcrewchief
    You should never add oil into the cylinder from the spark plug while doing (or just before) a compression check. As you found out, doing so will show an erroneously high reading. This is a trick that aircraft mechanics will do to get an aircraft to pass inspection (very dangerous too!).
  9. warthogcrewchief
    YES! The electrosport stator is an upgraded stator. I used to own a 1980 GS850L and those bikes were nearly bulletproof, with exception to their stator & regulator/rectifier. I did my research and found the Electrosport stator and R/R. I never had a problem again! I would highly recommend going with the electrosport stator... the only problem I have with elctrosport is that they don't make a R/R for the VR. I noticed you're changing out the r/r along with the stator. Good call! I've found that if one goes bad, you need to change out both. For those who are reading and would like to find more info on stators, read this and the following papers listed on that site: http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm They are written for the Suzuki GS, but those charging systems are nearly identical to the Yamaha systems.
  10. warthogcrewchief
    Something I haven't seen mentioned yet is a brake fluid (for clutch side) change and a bleed. I wonder if it could be slipping because the clutch is not fully engaging due to old fluid or air in the system.
  11. warthogcrewchief
    I see that the only downside to moving the TCI up above the air box is that it prevents one from converting the old fuse box into the new style. I'm thinking about getting the new style fuse box, but it would require the new fuse box to be located on top of the air box. Any suggestions as to an alternate location of either the "new" fuse box or the TCI when I do both mods?
  12. warthogcrewchief
    Yeah, VMax carbs are the same as the Venture. The jets may be a little different though. If you're looking for parts, check out these sites: http://www.partsnmore.com http://www.oldbikebarn.com http://www.carbkitcapital.com http://www.bikebandit.com
  13. warthogcrewchief
    I really doubt the brakes are your causal issue. I do feel that the tire may be a big part of the problem. Cupping (usually due to improper tire pressure) is usually the culprit, and a dangerous one at that! The fork oil isn't hard to change out. I would recommend going to Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30 motor oil for the forks! It really helps to cut down on the wear and tear and does a good job with the heavy loads on the forks. I hear great things about the super brace and plan on getting one for my bike...as soon as I can find a used on at a good price.
  14. warthogcrewchief
    There is no adjustment on the rear wheel as it is a shaft drive bike. The front wheel could be off a little due to the forks twisting (I hear the super-brace works wonders for that). However, it usually isn't the case. I would first look at a new set of tires, then after the bike tracks well without the sidecar, look at addressing the issue of mounting (the sidecar).
  15. warthogcrewchief
    I'm thinking you're thinking of putting the R/R in the ducting so that it gets more forced air when you're riding. However, when you're not riding, it'll be in stagnant air in a tight place. Those R/Rs do get warm and are designed to convert excess electrical energy into heat energy. If you could find a place that has ambient air flow, I think that would better. If you're putting the R/R that close to the radio, I don't think it will have much of an effect...but if you're concerned about it, temporarily install it near the radio to see how it works.
  16. warthogcrewchief
    I'm sure it's safe, but I won't do it as the brass and aluminum are soft metals. IF you do choose to soak them in an ultrasonic cleaner, be sure to remove ALL rubber and gasket material. Keep in mind there are rubber o-rings under adjustment screws, in between the fuel rails, and also a rubber seat on the float needle. Personally, I just used an old tooth brush, a little bit of Carb-Out, some compressed air, and a bristle from a long-bristled nylon brush (to stick into the jets and "floss" them out). IF you do clean out your jets with something, don't use anything metal near them... it will cause the orifice to be reamed.
  17. warthogcrewchief
    You might as well lube your U-joint. Since you're removing your rear tire, brake, and pumpkin, you'll have to remove the mufflers. Since you're removing the mufflers, you might as well remove the saddle bags and tubing. Since you have all that removed already, you might as well remove the rear swing arm (only two more bolts at the pivot point, and then two bolts connecting to the center stand "wishbone") to lube the bearings... Since you should remove the swing arm, you might as well remove the U-joint boot and inspect for cracks or tearing. Since you should remove the boot, you should use some cleaner (like carb cleaner) to get rid of all the old grease on the U-joint and lube it up REALLY well with new grease... After you install a good boot (original or new), fill up the void in the boot with as much grease as you can...it will help protect the U-joint from any possible debris that may come into the boot. Oh, don't forget to put new lube into your rear wheel bearings and lube up your rear axle too. After you re-install the pumpkin, you might as well replace the fluid in it (unless you already have). I know this all sounds like a lot of work, but you could easily knock this out in a weekend!
  18. warthogcrewchief
    The exhaust from the MKI (83-85) are different from the MKII (86-93). The TCI is different on the '83 as well. I would not recommend putting a 1200 into a 1300 engine primarily for two reason: the 1300 engines fixed two problems with the 1200 engines 1) the water pump and 2) the split washers that fail on the 2nd gear.
  19. warthogcrewchief
    I say you should do the swap, keep the metric face on the donated speedometer and then have a friend in a car or bike pace you to see if your speed is accurate to theirs.
  20. warthogcrewchief
    The speed is the same... just switch out the faces (quite easy actually!) Be sure to remove both screws holding the speedo mechanism in place and then pull it out, minding the cutout in the face to guide the temp needle stem through. As for the odometer, I'm sure you could remove the good working one and install it on the new "good" speedometer.
  21. warthogcrewchief
    Skydoc, How much do you charge for your R1 Kit? Do you sell the ss lines too? Thanks, WHCC (w/ '89 VR)
  22. warthogcrewchief
    Ebay is a great resource for used parts. I've also visited m/c junkyards to find good parts too. Any of the foot pegs from '86 to '93 will work.... '83 to '85 may work too (not sure about the MK1's).
  23. warthogcrewchief
    Unfortunately, most strobes (regardless of color) are illegal in almost all states.
  24. warthogcrewchief
    Does he have the cable and the antenna mount? If so, I know that the Honda GL1200 Goldwing antennas will work. I converted my '89 into a two-antenna system. I used two GL1200 antennas I found at a junk yard. I have a used antenna from my '89 VR that works, but I'm not sure how well as it was clipped just above the black plastic piece in the middle of the antenna. I know it receives AM/FM well, but I have no idea if it will allow for transmitting or receiving CB traffic.
  25. warthogcrewchief
    If nobody buys it, you should take it to a MC Salvage yard. There's on in KS about 45 min to an hour away from you. Oz Powersports; Ottawa, KS; 785-242-0600; FAX: 913-856-6703 OR: about an hour into Missouri: 50 Highway Cycles; Holden, MO; 816-405-2003 (I grew up in Olathe, and have heard of OZ powersports for years...but never had a chance to make it out there.)
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