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warthogcrewchief

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Everything posted by warthogcrewchief

  1. warthogcrewchief
    Was the kickstand down when you tried to start? I do believe that the bike will not start with the stand down and not in neutral. Also, if you wanted to bypass the neutral switch, I wonder if you could just jump the two wires together? I'm not sure if this would work, maybe someone can either back me up or call it a stupid idea??
  2. warthogcrewchief
    I found a site called http://www.cheapcycleparts.com . I found they are a whole lot cheaper than even bikebandit. It'll be about $30 cheaper than the next lowest price I found, which was what Rick quoted me with the discount.
  3. warthogcrewchief
    Let me get this right, you need the rubber piece that mounts on the inside of the windshield on the bottom? If that's the case, I may have one. If you need the pieces that go to top and bottom of the chrome piece, I've seen them at http://www.bikebandit.com and at http://www.cheapcycleparts.com bike bandit has the two of them for about $18 USD, and cheap cycle parts has them for about $15 USD.
  4. warthogcrewchief
    I've used Bike Bandit in the past, and they have never done me wrong. They want $2.99 for each of the rubber plugs and $28.70 (all in USD) for each of the gaskets. They'll ship for $7. I went to http://www.buckeyeperformance.com . Rick owns/runs Buckeye Performance and specializes in VRs. He quoted me about $10-$15 cheaper than Bike Bandit's price. I think a part of it is that I am also a member at http://www.venturers.org . Members from the Venturers get a small discount from Buckeye Performance. I doubt I'll go through SDI again (the company who sells the diaphragms). Something else I need to do is see if MiCarl has the parts I need. He gives a %15 discount for the members here. MiCarl runs/owns Thunder Valley Powersports at http://www.thundervalleypower.com .
  5. warthogcrewchief
    Yes, I plan on checking the valve clearances while the covers are off. What I didn't remember are the rubber plugs for each bolt. Did anyone have to remove the gas tank in order to access the rear bank cylinder bank?
  6. warthogcrewchief
    As I slowly get to the end of my restoration, I find another thing here or there that causes my project to slow down... I got the carb and ignition issues worked out! Replacing the diaphragms fixed the "lean" condition. Cleaning the plugs fixed the ignition issues as I had to use the enrichener to keep the engine running before fixing the carbs. However, I now noticed some very nice cracking in the rubber "half-moons" plugs on the valve cover gaskets. I also have noticed a little oil on the engine...not much, but enough to know that the valve cover gaskets are going. What parts do I need to replace when doing the gaskets? What components do I need to remove to access the valve covers? I already have ALL the plastic off. I will also be removing the carbs (again) soon to replace the carb mount boots (very tiny leak found). I've heard that 2nd Gen valve cover gaskets will work on 1st Gens. Is this accurate? Thanks in advance! WHCC
  7. warthogcrewchief
    try at www.bikebandit.com, or get in touch with Rick at www.buckeyeperformance.com . He's a Yamaha dealer that specializes in 1st & 2nd Gen Ventures. If you go to Bikebandit, click on the exploded diagram labeled "Side Cover". It is item number 28: Damper. P/N is 19061-001. Price is $11.72 each.
  8. warthogcrewchief
    No, it doesn't seem to make a difference yet. I need to remove the top (outboard sides of the carbs), and ensure the diaphragms are seated in the grove...and then RTV it so that it doesn't pinch when I place the cover back on. I haven't replaced the boots (carb mounts) yet...still waiting for the o-rings.
  9. warthogcrewchief
    I have an '89 that has all the plastic removed while I do some rebuilding/repairs. The tape player and AM/FM tuner are sitting in my house, and the amp is sitting on the gas tank - very accessible. What exactly do you need me to look at on my amplifier or the tape deck?
  10. warthogcrewchief
    To answer some of your questions: the Battery Tender line is a good brand. I have the full sized one for my bike and I love it. It has to be one of the best preventative maint. tools I own! As for the fuel stabilizer/sea-foam, I've used it in my vehicles and it works just fine. Keep in mind that this stuff is designed to sit in tanks,fuel lines, etc for extended periods of time. Just remember not to use this stuff full strength, but to dilute it to either the recommended level on the back (about 1 oz. per gallon of gas) or for a stronger mix, half a can for a full tank. Keep in mind that the sea foam will affect the mixture just a little bit. I learned this when I restored a virago 750. I found that I had to ensure the sea foam was all out, and then fine tune the mixture. If I remember correctly, seafoam doesn't burn as well as gasoline, so it causes it to be just a little "lean".
  11. warthogcrewchief
    It appears the o-rings are not cylindrical, but a little oval. I did find that Bike Bandit has the o-rings, but they run $35 for four (including shipping)! I paid $69.99 for the carb holders and they charged $15 for shipping. I would recommend going to MiCarl for the carb boots as they are less expensive - even at his regular price! I'm not going to get a random o-ring from the parts store. I've seen what happens when an o-ring is too big or two small. Too small and they leak. Too big and they get pinched and then eventually split and/or leak. Due to it being a high heat area, I'm certain the rubber o-rings are brittle. I thought I was going to save a buck...and I didn't! Go with MiCarl, as his price is nearly unbeatable with the 15% discount.
  12. warthogcrewchief
    I already contacted them. They said the reason the boots are discounted because they don't include o-rings (which they never stated before). They offered a full refund, and also suggested using silicone on the old o-rings. I won't reuse old o-rings, as it can cause more problems later. Does anyone know the size of the o-rings for the boots? I'm not ready to quit yet!
  13. warthogcrewchief
    I purchased the carb diaphragms from Sirius (who gave us the discount) and they were great. Really easy to install! However, I also purchased some carb mounts (boots between carb and head). They sell them WITHOUT the o-ring! I was very disappointed to see they don't come with the REQUIRED o-ring. Anyways, I would say get the diaphragms from them, but avoid the boots from them as they are not complete!
  14. warthogcrewchief
    RTV can be purchased at ANY auto parts store or hardware store. RTV stands for "Room Temperature Vulcanization". You should be able to find that a tube will cost around $5 and will have MANY uses! Ace Hardware Lowe's Home Depot Off Topic (just a bit) - Often times, RTV is used to seal gaskets, or even make a new gasket. Be wary though, some gaskets are NOT supposed to have any RTV on them.
  15. warthogcrewchief
    That's a good idea! I haven't thought of changing out the hoses, but now this is making me think twice (because the bike is still completely apart). I bet getting heater hoses from the auto parts store is a cheap and effective way to replace the lines.
  16. warthogcrewchief
    A trick I learned in the maintenance world is to use RTV to keep a screw or bolt from backing out. Since its on a windshield, put a dab of clear RTV on the threads of your hardware and screw it in. Problem solved!
  17. warthogcrewchief
    I found the Markland backrest from a GL1500 and it worked nearly perfectly on my '89 VR. When I was in the junkyard last month, I saw a few MKI's that had the rubber pads on the top of the saddle bag guards. It appeared those pads were used for mounting a driver's backrest.
  18. warthogcrewchief
    Thirdbike has three VR's he's parting out. Give him a shout and see if he has the part you need.
  19. warthogcrewchief
    I just purchased one of Jack's fork braces. Very solid, looks great, and a good price!
  20. warthogcrewchief
    Instead of rebuilding the brake calipers, I would opt to upgrade to R1 calipers. Skydoc_17 sells them on here in the classified ads page. I also agree that going to stainless lines would be good...although they're pricey (waiting to get some for my bike)...I think it would be a good investment. When you remove ALL the plastic, do a thorough inspection of the plastic for cracks. These old ABS plastic parts get cracks all over them. Stop-drill the cracks, and cut a "V" shaped groove above the crack and fill with repair material (devcon makes a good product called "Plastic Weld"; another good product is Plast-Aid). With all the plastic off, you're halfway there to removing the rear swing arm. Go ahead and remove the swing arm to lube the bushings and the bearings. While there, lube drive shaft and U-Joint. With swing arm off, install zerk fittings for easy lube of swing arm bearings/bushings. Reassemble and service rear differential.
  21. warthogcrewchief
    21 answered right
  22. warthogcrewchief
    Found a VR/ Vmax valve tool on Ebay for $30 + $5 shipping. Ends in two days! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-V-Max-Venture-Valve-Shim-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439c74e7bcQQitemZ290387716028QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools
  23. warthogcrewchief
    I've seen on other (other than VRs) bikes where people have cut a chunk out of the drive shaft portion of a swing arm to allow access for a wider tire...then welded a plate where the chunk was cut out... I'm not saying it's a good idea. I wouldn't do it, but it's always an option. Why wouldn't the V-Max drive shaft/swing arm fit into a VR frame?
  24. warthogcrewchief
    Thanks for the clarification! I was wondering if I would need to upgrade my master brake reservoir if I do the R1 brake mod.
  25. warthogcrewchief
    link?
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