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warthogcrewchief

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Everything posted by warthogcrewchief

  1. warthogcrewchief
    Paypal sent today. Thanks for making the tool! For those who are using this wrench, ensure the wrench is situated 90 degrees from the torque wrench handle. If you have the wrench parallel to the handle, it will increase the torque applied to the nut/bolt and the reading will be erroneous...just a little tidbit I learned from my training.
  2. warthogcrewchief
    I looked at the pin-out on the other link, and it doesn't seem to help as it is applied for the 5-pin (CB and/or comm headset). If you want to keep the wiring harness intact, as I do, I found a way to do so. I found an 8-pin DIN Jack (female side). It is any 8-pin DIN 262 degree style plug. This is where I purchased mine from: http://www.showmecables.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=1518 There are no special tools (like pin socket crimps). These handles have leads on the back that allow you to solder each wire into place. I'll add photos as I get more of the components in the mail. I'm waiting for a 3PDT switch and an LED to indicate when the MP3 input is switched on.
  3. warthogcrewchief
    My bike uses a "THIN WALL" deep socket 15mm. None of my sockets worked either. I had to go to a motorcycle shop and purchase an aftermarket spark plug socket. I just found one online this evening that is nice. My sparkplug socket isn't a 3/8" drive... http://www.handsontools.com/Motion-Pro-08-0175-Spark-Plug-Socket-18mm_p_53897.html I've never seen plugs go bad after just one season of sitting. In fact, after I purchased my bike -which had been sitting for YEARS- I was able to start it with the same plugs it had in it after replacing the battery and cleaning out the carbs. Although, I did change the plugs shortly thereafter. Ensure you have a good battery with the correct level of acid (you can use distilled water to refill) and ensure it is properly charged. However, if the lead plates have been exposed to air (fluid level dropped), then the battery's ability to hold a charge will be diminished. Take the carbs off, open them up and clean the crap out of them (only one at a time so parts don't get mixed up). When cleaning out passages and jets - DO NOT USE METAL TOOLS!! It will change the open the jet holes up and that is not good. I use carb cleaner (pick your favorite) and fishing line (using it like floss) to clean the inside walls of the jets. Reassemble and try to start again.
  4. warthogcrewchief
    I was doing my daily E-Bay search for VR parts and found this little gem. Thought some of you may like to see this: LINK INFO: YAMAHA XVZ1200 VENTURE ROYALE CDI BOX IGNITION UNIT This is a new OEM part still in the plastic. IGNITION UNIT TYPE TID 1 4 - 3 4 4 1 R - 0 9 part# 41R-82305-09 KO31013A I WILL SHIP WORLDWIDE The guy is asking $299 or best offer
  5. warthogcrewchief
    After looking at Frank's diagram, it is right on the money (a mirror image) of what I have. I believe the 262 degree (standard microphone 8-pin) connector should work for the bike. The only questions I have are: Has anyone figured out what the green wire (pin 5) and yellow wire (pin 3) wire do? Does the black ground wire (pin 2) need to be connected to anything? What is pin 8 used for?
  6. warthogcrewchief
    That's all good. I think I'll try and jump 1 & 7, as listed in my diagram and see if that works. I would love to find an old non-operational amplifier/intercom control panel and dissect the cable plug to see what colored wires leads to which plug... that would be great, but mine still works.
  7. warthogcrewchief
    I emailed someone the pin orientation of the 8-pin connector that connects to the backside of the tape deck. Here is the orientation looking at the open end of cable plug (I guess it would be considered the "male" end).
  8. warthogcrewchief
    I must be a little confused. There is only one cable that connects to the cassette deck, which is hardwired via the blue 24-pin connector to the amplifier/intercom control panel. It is the one that is pictured in my previous post. That cable, which has an 8-pin connector, is the one I believe that should have the 3.5 mm female connector (I believe its the standard MP3 input) connected to it. However, I'm not sure which two pins need to be connected to the two wires of the 3.5 mm MP3 input. I've heard that the stereo won't work at all with the tape deck removed. Which pins needs to be jumped to "trick" the stereo into thinking the tape deck is still there. Thanks in advance, WHCC
  9. warthogcrewchief
    Does anyone know of a way I can add the MP3 input (while removing the tape deck) that won't require me to permanently modify my bike? I was thinking about getting a female 8-pin connector and then wires from the new connector to make the MP3 input. I'm guessing I use the 8 pin male connector/wire that leads to the smaller blue connector that is attached to the amp control? Anyone have any suggestions as to good places to find these connectors (my first thought was Radio Shack). http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0890.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0889.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0888.jpg
  10. warthogcrewchief
    If you have the money to spend, I saw them new on bikebandit.com! I forget the price, but it wasn't cheap.
  11. warthogcrewchief
    When I did my fork rebuild (twice...Don't buy seals from Pyramid!), I purchased the two (one upper and one lower) bushings for each fork. I also purchased the crush seal for the lower magnetic plug/bolt. Also, you'll need a tool to hold the inner piston. It cost me less than $10 to make and worked great. Get two, two foot 1/2 inch steel (or iron) pipe sections (threaded on each end). The first one leave alone, and the second you'll need to have cut in half. I got mine at Ace Hardware and they cut it for no charge. Purchase a 1/2" "T" that fits the threads. When assembled, it forms a large "T". Purchase a bolt that has a head of 24 mm or 15/16". Screw that bolt into the long end and WELD it. I tried using JB weld and the torque I applied to it broke the JB weld. You'll need a 17mm allen key tool (socket would be better than the allen key, but I used an allen key) to remove the top threaded cap. Be sure to wear safety glasses and mechanics gloves when removing the cap so that you can protect your hands and maintain positive control of the spring loaded cap! In the provided link, is a list of the parts that usually come in a "Fork Rebuild Kit", which is EVERYTHING that wears out. I only needed the oil seal, the dust seal, the two bushings and the crush washers. When it comes time to re-assemble the forks and install the oil seals; I used some plastic (I used the thin plastic used to make gallon jugs of milk). The plastic was used to protect the seals from the cir-clip groove at the top of the fork. I used a 1-1/2" PVC pipe to "lightly tamp" the oil seal into position. It works perfect. "Fork Rebuilding for Dummies"
  12. warthogcrewchief
    Put me down for two! I'll send Paypal this evening!
  13. warthogcrewchief
    My bad, I failed to see what year his bike was.... I also didn't know that the MK1's couldn't use the R1 calipers.
  14. warthogcrewchief
    My radio was missing some of the (outer) buttons. I pulled the face off, got the right dimensions of the button cavity and then made the two missing buttons out of epoxy putty. I then sanded down to the correct size and smoothness, then drilled a hole right though the middle, tapped it for the screw threads. After that, I painted them. You will need some spring stock cut to size. I tried using the new spring in the same position as the factory buttons, but I don't think it worked. The factory springs were designed to prevent the button from retracting too far, which, with new springs kept the button depressed. So, I placed the screw through the face hole and then the spring on the screw and screwed the screw into the newly made button. I did a dry fit first to ensure the buttons worked properly. After I knew they worked, I then removed the screw and placed some super glue on the button treads and reassembled the new buttons. After it was all done, I placed a drop of super glue into the screw hole (from the outside) for added measure. I then did a light sand and a paint touch up by hand. If I get some more time, I'll try to disassemble my radio to get photos.
  15. warthogcrewchief
    Looks like you're going on the right direction. Although, something to think about: I thought about rebuilding my calipers before I saw the rebuilt R1 Calipers SkyDoc sells on here. I'm looking to get the R1 calipers for my '89 because the housing is one piece instead of two pieces bolted together (less give = better braking ability).
  16. warthogcrewchief
    I got a set of Blazer horns from Autozone. I paid about $30 for the pair. Each one is sold individually (low & high tone). I wired it up using a simple relay to keep the load off the factory horn. They're a simple electric horn, but sounds like an air horn! I put a 1 low and 1 high tone on the bike (each at 135 db...YEAH, 135 db!). I did a test in my car port and nearly required a change of the drawers. I came in the house a minute later and my 18 month old was crying from the loud sound (all the doors and windows were closed)... These things are AWESOME loud for a good price! I even masked off the metal backside and primed/painted the black plastic trumpet to match the bike. Here' a link. Edit: The link provided is for the 112 db horn. They do have 135 db horns for sale.
  17. warthogcrewchief
    Were you able to get the broken bolt out??
  18. warthogcrewchief
    I'd like to see the link for the seat cover seller, please! Does the seller do armrests and passenger backrests covers too? Thanks!
  19. warthogcrewchief
    I was looking for a seat a while back for my tattered seat on my '89. I found people saying the 1200 would fit just fine. The only issue was that the vinyl had different patterns from the MK1 to the MK2. If you need a passenger backrest pad to match your MK2 seat, let me know... I may have one that isn't damaged (have to double check).
  20. warthogcrewchief
    On one of my great rides (Tucson - Albuquerque - Dallas -Oklahoma City - Kansas City- Denver - Albuquerque - Tucson) on my 2006 HD Low Rider (back in June 2007), I found that Colorado wasn't that cold. Often times, a long sleeved shirt was enough...once in a while I needed my jacket. My Harley didn't have a windshield on it either. I would review an Almanac to see what temps you're going to be looking at before you either take my word or spend money on an item you may not use.
  21. warthogcrewchief
    I've got an '89 VR, and I too am curious what people thought of the Road King mufflers on their VR?
  22. warthogcrewchief
    An inexpensive trick that guys do to their crotch rockets are to loosen the pinch bolts on the triple trees. When they are loose, they raise the forks up a bit to lower the front end. On the VR, you would have to first lower the forks to clear the top side of the forks below the top clamps. Once clear, you can remove the dampers (they rest between the CLASS manifold on the forks and below the top clamps). Then you would slide the forks back up...but instead of having them flush with the top of the clamp, push them up until they stop. This should give you 1/4" to 1/2". This MAY work, but I would not recommend it. If the forks are not perfectly level, you risk bending the front axle, uneven tire wear, and/or control issues. Another issue with adjusting any front end diamentions is that you change the steering and handling of the motorcycle. Lowering the front end may cause the bike to become more sensitive to steering inputs. One of the best methods I've seen/heard is to cut out the foam in the front seat (and replace it with thinner gel pads) and then have it reupholstered. That would be an effective way to lower your ride height without changing the handling.
  23. warthogcrewchief
    Nah...you don't owe me a thing. I've been fortunate enough to have two venture sites that have been valuable in my restoration. I'm just passing the info along.
  24. warthogcrewchief
    Give Rick a shout at http://www.buckeyeperformance.com . He can get any part for the VR. I do believe there is a mod (newer version of the old brushes). Yamaha went to a four brush system instead of the antiquated two brush system. It really does a lot to help the performance of the starter.
  25. warthogcrewchief
    If it's still under warranty, I would take it in the moment I heard even an inkling of a hiccup. You paid for the service, use it. It could be something as simple as a dirty lifter...or it could be a lifter on the verge of collapse. Either way, let the dealership fix it while it's still free.
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