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warthogcrewchief

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Everything posted by warthogcrewchief

  1. warthogcrewchief
    If money isn't a concern, go to an automatic (or electric) clutch. Then use the left hydraulic clutch handle for one of the brakes and the other brake handle for the other brake system.
  2. warthogcrewchief
    For the left side, cut the darned thing off. For the right side, take the right handlebar switch assembly apart (two screw on bottom). The assembly splits apart and is very easy to reassemble. Loosen up the tension adjustment nearest the grip and that should give you enough to remove one cable, then do the same for the other cable. After the entire grip is separated from the switch assembly and the cables, CAREFULLY cut the old grip off. Try not to cut into the old plastic. If you score into the plastic a little bit, it won't hurt anything. Get a little soapy water to act as a lubricant (dries quick and acts as a glue too) when installing the grips. Install the grip onto the right throttle plastic sleeve. Before installing the sleeve back onto the handlebar/switch assembly, get some fine (at least 400 grit) sandpaper and a little oil to clean up any corrosion on the handle bar. This can cause the throttle to seem sticky. DO NOT use WD-40 as all it is a "Water Displacement" agent. After it dries, it will expose the current corrosion to even more corrosion. Simple 3-in-1 oil (or even motor oil, in a pinch) will work. Reverse process of removal. Be sure to readjust cable tensioner so that you have aproximately 1/4 inch to (not more than) 1/2 inch of travel before throttle is engaged. You'll feel/know what feels comfortable.
  3. warthogcrewchief
    The virago is an easier bike to work on. When I had my '94 XV750, I pulled all the emission crap off and plugged the cylinders by tapping the holes and screwing in short, chromed allen key bolts. If you do decide to get the bike, I have some parts remaining from my old one (most years/sizes have interchangeable parts). I also have a repair manual I'll sell to you for a good price. EDIT: My virago didn't have the starter problem and it had 94,000 miles on it. The only problem that I think would be too much to deal with would be the possibility of a leaking/low compression on a cylinder. The carbs are too hard (hardest part is the removal/install). The bike is cake to work on compared to the intricacy of the VR.
  4. warthogcrewchief
    If it's tough to get to because the valve stem is too short, you can purchase stem extensions at your local parts store. If it's an issue with your valve stem needle, you can also get a tool to back your valve stem needle out a bit.
  5. warthogcrewchief
    If you're looking for a good virus protection program, check out AVG Free. http://www.avgfree.com . I have it for my computers. It works for XP and Vista...still trying to get it to work for Win 7. There's no need to download the one you have to pay for...just download the free one...it works like a charm and it's at a price you can't beat!
  6. warthogcrewchief
    I think your best bet would be to have your friend at the shop file for a mechanic's lien, and then take possession of the bike for the "services rendered". Then he can legally sell it to you. Another option in some states (not sure about IL) is to file for an abandoned title. This make take longer, and may require more hassle...
  7. warthogcrewchief
    I haven't gotten a good mileage calculation on my bike yet, but I can tell you about my last bike - an '06 HD low rider, 1450 cc... got 40 to 45 mpg.
  8. warthogcrewchief
    I got my new wires and caps in the other day. I changed them out yesterday and that did not solve the problem! So the next thing I did was pull a spark plug off a cylinder that I knew was firing, and placed it in the faulty position... worked like a charm! Turns out the spark plugs I purchased four months ago, one was bad! Less than $3 and got spark to all four cylinders....still waiting for the darn carb sync tool...
  9. warthogcrewchief
    Something to keep in mind, if it is the cable, is that the part that usually breaks is the metal flexible rod in the cable assembly. If you are to get a custom cable, you should be able to keep the outter rubber cable and connection assemblies. The old inner cable slides right out.
  10. warthogcrewchief
    If you're talking about the oil seal that is around the valve cover bolts, I replaced mine when I changed my valve cover gasket. I've found them for less than $3 at bikebandit.com and a little cheaper at cheapcycleparts.com . Even though bikebandit is a little more expensive, I'd go back to them again any day! Cheapcycle parts had poor customer service and slow shipping. Even though I changed mine out, I found that when I opened the covers, the seals on bolts were still in good shape (bike had 35K miles on it).
  11. warthogcrewchief
    I already tried clipping both ends of the wire, and no positive results. I'm pretty sure it's not any of the coils because I tested the connecting plugs at the TCI/CDI unit. When I tested each piece, the cap was hard to get an ohm reading. Same results when the cap was tested with the assembly. All the other pieces, when tested independently seemed to be in limits.
  12. warthogcrewchief
    Have you considered a GE Nighthawk? I'm running those on my bike and my wife's van...and they are noticably brighter with a wider beam of projection. I got mine at Amazon.com. I do believe all the 1st Gens use H4's. I know the MKII's use the H-4s. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/GE-H4-60NH-BP1-Motorcycle-Replacement/dp/B0017OALW0/ref=sr_1_19?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1268003019&sr=1-19]Amazon.com: GE Nighthawk H4-60NH/BP1 Motorcycle Replacement Bulb, Pack of 1: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41FOyN6poCL.@@AMEPARAM@@41FOyN6poCL[/ame]
  13. warthogcrewchief
    I had disassembled it yesterday and cleaned the resistor. There was no copper plate in there. That may be the problem. I do have new caps and plugs on order.
  14. warthogcrewchief
    Sky Doc sells a mod on here (classified section) for a reasonable price. It gets rid of the breather hose from the twinkie to the air box and replaces it with a small metal filter element. It does a great job and I can remove and install the airbox in less than 5 minutes! Here's a direct link to the classified ad: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2333/cat/6
  15. warthogcrewchief
    the 90-18 is the correct tire size for the front. Dunlop makes two E-3 Tires in that size. One is just a few dollars more and definitely worth it because it has a higher load rating (translates to a longer tire life!).
  16. warthogcrewchief
    There's a few of you who have read/replied to my thread regarding my '89 backfiring a lot.http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45485 I posted a little bit about the no spark condition on the right rear cylinder. I tested the coils, and are within limits, all three other spark plugs work just fine. I tested the spark plug wire installed on the coil and the plug cap removed - got good resistance. I then tested the wire with the cap on and the cap by itself and was having a hard time getting a good resistance value. I had to turn the multimeter onto 200K ohms to get a reading. I'm thinking that the spark plug cap may be the problem. Anyone have other ideas? I've got new wires/caps on order. Hopefully that'll fix the the problem! Has anyone had a no-spark condition before from the spark plug cap or the spark plug wires?
  17. warthogcrewchief
    I hear there's a procedure to reverse the damage.
  18. warthogcrewchief
    I have filled it up once. The backfiring has reduced significantly as I have been riding, but still occasionally spits. My big thing right now is to get the right rear cylinder running and the carbs synced. I did trim the spark plug wire down on the cap side, and intend to do so as soon as I can access it. I'm not sure what's easiest to do: pull the fairing or the battery to replace the wires. I might try to pull the battery again and see if I can access...got ALL weekend and it's expected to rain...good time to work the bike! Thanks again for everyone's help!
  19. warthogcrewchief
    Well, I'm going to want to fix the no-spark issue before I attempt the carb adjustment. I think not having spark on the right rear cylinder could possibly skew the readings.
  20. warthogcrewchief
    I pulled out the battery tray today (after having to drill out the battery tray bolts!). I tested the ignition coils and the pickup coils from the connector at the TCI/CDI. For all four ignition coils, I was getting around 3.3-3.4 ohms. For all four pickup coils, I was getting around 111 ohms. So, I'm not worried about the pickup coils, but the ignition coils seems to be a little bit out of the tolerance range of 2.7 +/- 10%. Does this seem alright? I have another set of coils I bench tested and they get around 3.0 ohms. There doesn't appear to be any corrosion on the pin outs on either the TCI/CDI or the connectors. The only thing I haven't done is replace the plug wires/caps (which I have on order). I am STILL waiting for my Carb Tune Pro so I can properly tune the carbs... Any ideas, does this seem alright? Thanks again for all your help! EDIT: I did the simple test to see which cylinder was not getting spark. Turns out I'm not getting spark to the right rear cylinder. So, I'm gonna have to pull all the plastic off and recheck the spark plug wire connection to the coil.... or just wait for the new wires to show up.
  21. warthogcrewchief
    I "installed" Progressive springs on my '89. In the kit, it includes a piece of PVC pipe and two washers to replace the preload springs. So, if you open the top, see a PVC pipe and a washer, then the main spring, this would be the standard setup for the Progressive Springs.
  22. warthogcrewchief
    I was looking for CDI's/TCI's on Ebay when I came across one from Pinwall Cycle listed as a 2002. They post great pictures of their products and I was looking at this TCI/CDI. It has two plug connection points. One with six spade and one with eight pinouts. I wonder if the 2002 will work on our 1st Gens? Part number painted on unit is: 4XY-01 1ZB
  23. warthogcrewchief
    DonB posted a great diagram on troubleshooting the ignition system. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15135 He lists the specs for an '85. Are these the same specs for an '89? Thanks...
  24. warthogcrewchief
    Another idea is to get a used center stand and cut just enough off, and weld the feet back on so that you can have a center stand that keeps the bike up, but also keeps the rear wheel on the ground. The Goldwings have something like this for an add-on, and they can place the bike on the center stand by putting the stand down and placing the bike in reverse...and just as easy to get it off the stand... just drive off.
  25. warthogcrewchief
    Thanks for the tips. I know it's not the throttle cable/linkage. I very familiar with how to adjust the throttle on Yamahas. I adjusted the cable down below until it was just about perfect, and got the top adjustment (just outside the throttle grip) just about perfect too. So, it's gotta be the snyc....boy, I can't wait for this carb tune to come in!
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