screamstone

Hey everyone... Feedback on intercoms solved!!! Well, at least my issue. I have headsets that clip on to the helmet. There are three wires that need to be reconnected when moving from one helmet to another. They only fit one way... or so it seemed. I was getting a ear shattering feedback loop with intercoms. Happened more than once. And what I discovered was that the microphone cable from the connector can easily get connected to a speaker input! That's the issue!! No wonder I was getting feedback- check to see that you're not connecting your mic DIRECTLY TO THE POWERED SPEAKER CONNECTIONS! That'll do it every time. There follow your mic connection to the clip with the connecting wires. I'm pretty familiar with cables and fancy myself a pretty good troubleshooter, but there's something about the way that the cables are coming off of that connector with the mic attached that makes it easy to connect to the wrong spot. After you get it right. Mark the mic connectors with colored tape. Problem solved! I have a half-helmet with the speakers in the removable curtain. Removing them would cause this connection problem every time! Not any more!!!

I done left, too. It's still on since I've been busy, but gonna try e3's. Wobble at highway speeds made me go back. rs

So, I've played with pressures some, but the wobble is still there. Probably not really worse, but I'm very comfy on the tire and so I forget it's the CT... I get on the highway and throttle her up a lot... she does a dance. I'm glad she's excited to go fast with her little dance, but I don't like to be on her back when she does. Back to MC tire for me. I get it when the speedo hits 80ish. In South Florida traffic, you sometimes need to jump into the flow and that requires a quick burst up in the 80s sometimes... And I like to go fast. Anyway- I wish it worked. I never felt anything weird in slow speeds, it feels different, but not better or worse... jsut different. Guess I'm trying e3's next! rs

Actually, It's NOT an "extremely dangerous high speed wobble". It's this strange oscillation- not at all quick and scary LIKE IT USED TO BE WITH THE MC TIRES on. It feels like a truck is going by me, and the more I think about it, the more I believe that it has to do with changing from a shorty windscreen to a XXL f4 windshied. Other threads mention this as well. I had a WORSE high speed wobble with the MC tire, but the head bearings were REALLY loose, and I tightened them up, but don't know how to tell if now the bearings are messed up from having such a loose steering head for so long. I'll wait for a maintenance day to have an experienced person look at it. I do the ride like a pro exercises in the parking lot quite often. I can turn the bike better than I think most can (my friends don't even want to try the exercises, even after watching the video.) I appreciate your input, goose, and I take it in the most generous way. Thanks for the input. I don't have much to compare to. Many people don't let others ride their bike (and I completely understand that) so it's not like I can compare this much to anything else other than what I had. And I think it handles heaver than my Shadow ACE and Sportster did. But it's got a fairing and about 3-5 hundred pounds extra on it. I expect it to handle differently. It's an experiment for me. I'm not SOLD on the idea. And If I can ride another set of tires and see that the bike can handle amazingly better with a tire change, I'll do it. Right now, as I said before, I just don't see what all the fuss is about. A lot of custom bikes around here also have car tires. I don't think it's a huge deal. I think the bike handles fine. If I ever experience anything I don't like that I can attribute to the tires, I'll switch them FAST. For now, They're staying on a while....

If price is not a big issue and you really want the convenience, this is a good way to go: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Ion-TTUSB-Turntable-USB-Record/dp/B000BUEMOO]Amazon.com: Ion TTUSB Turntable with USB Record: Electronics@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41SjEvpxsFL.@@AMEPARAM@@41SjEvpxsFL[/ame] I still recommend the software from the earlier post to automate the splitting of tracks.

With a turntable, you need to go through a reciever to eliminate the ground hum. It's a pain, but worth it. Then just go from headphone out of receiver to audio in of mac with a stereo 1/4 inch to miniplug stereo cable. The advice on this page is good. http://www.jakeludington.com/mac/20090320_convert_vinyl_records_to_mp3_or_aac_on_a_mac.html The software is DEFINITELY worth the money (around $36 with coupon) because it automatically splits the songs and takes care of crackle and pops on the recording pretty well. You do have to go through your receiver. Cannot go straight from Record player to mac. Signal too quiet and has a ton of hum if you do. rs

I've taken this on and off 3 different bikes over the last couple years and never had a bit of trouble, and it's dang cheap. I think I even got mine for like $12 shipped. Holds like a champ. http://cgi.ebay.com/Bike-Handlebar-Custom-Mount-Apple-iPhone-3G-/400009162936?cmd=ViewItem&pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item5d226770b8#ht_1344wt_913

So I have the kumho and pirelli rear reversed on the bike. Took her out yesterday and did s couple hundred miles. Lots of straight florida roads out to lake okeechobee and back, and a half hour in an empty parking lot trying the slow corners and U turns. No problems at all. I don't see what all the fuss is about I do start to get a wobble around 85ish.. but not like head bearings wobble, it's kind of slower and oscillating. I did however just put on an F4 large shield, and I believe that's the main culprit. I prefer frame mounted fairings but that's not a mod i think I could handle!!! :-) I did so much to the bike at once, it's impossible to tell what single thing or combo is making changes. I don't like to be at 85 (speedo, 80ish real speed) anyway, and don't mind it as the bike's way of saying "hey man... you're going FAST." Generally the bike handles about the same as before because I was on some pretty worn brickstones. The rear was pretty flat. Corners don't bother me, and I do mostly long highway rides. Few twisties here in South Fl. For me- I'm happy... How long do I break it in before I start experimentng with pressures?

Added to list for my next stop at harbor freight!!! rs

looking into that, and also found some light bars that I'm researching some more. I also like the way goose has side markers up on his trunk, and it's an easy install.

3 Down!!! http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49998

Hey guys- This may have been done. Did a search and didn't see it... so here goes: I wanted an extra 12v outlet on the right of the fairing, because sometimes I want to charge my phone as well as have the GPS (who has a grumpy battery) running.(new GPS has a special cord, so I can't use my USB double charger anymore.) I also removed the casette deck, and made a little storage area. I had a wire coming out of there, and then out from under the fairing... but when I didn't have something plugged in, I didn't like the cable hanging out. So I tried adding a new, easy to change aux plug in case this one fails over time. Started with a black rubber coupling from radioshack, but it didn't work. Use the gold one you see in the pics. it's worth the extra 3 bucks. This was just an experiment, but seems to have worked perfectly and gave me just what I wanted. First, drilled a hole in my beautiful fairing. I drilled too small, and slowly filed the hole more until it had a nice snug fit. However, the final solution would probably work with a hole slightly larger because I came up with a good solution for holding the plug in and waterproofing the opening. I drilled right behind the speaker, so that the plug is facing down when installed. This should eliminate almost all chances of water getting in there: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg249/screamstone/CA2008/bike%20mods/th_IMG_7390.jpg Then, I put an e-clip around the coupler with a neoprene washer, and put it in the hole from the bottom. If you look close in this pic, you can see both parts. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg249/screamstone/CA2008/bike%20mods/th_IMG_7403.jpg Next, in the inside, I used another washer, and then a bushing to help me get the e-clip on nice and tight. I was using the grooves in the knurled texture of the coupling as a groove for the clips. I think these were 1/2 inch e-clips... but I brought the coupler in and just figured it out in the hardware store. They have to fit tight. The bushing helped make it easier to put the inside e-clip on with pliers because I had space between the fairing wall and the clip's groove. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg249/screamstone/CA2008/bike%20mods/th_IMG_7399.jpg Next, I just used a small patch cord to plug in to the aux input of the bike to the coupler. DONE!!!! http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg249/screamstone/CA2008/bike%20mods/th_IMG_7404.jpg Here's how it looks from the bottom of the bike. I really like it because you can't see it unless you kind of squat down and look up. Very inconspicuous. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg249/screamstone/CA2008/bike%20mods/th_IMG_7400.jpg Since I was there, I looked at this 12v outlet I got from a marine supply warehouse in town. (So I'm assuming it's "weather friendly"). I wanted to add it to the lower right fairing and just tap in to the other 12v outlet. I used a 1" Flat wood bit (the flat kind with a point, if you know what I mean) to drill a hole- but that's slightly too large since I didn't have any washers. Not a problem- it still fits, but I want to add washers to "clean up" the look and keep water from seeping in around the edges. Didn't take many pics at this point, because I just kind of did it on a whim. Here's the outlet installed on the inside: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg249/screamstone/CA2008/bike%20mods/th_IMG_7406.jpg And here's the front side, with the plug for aux audio supplying all the necessary "Music to mod your bike to" tunes: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg249/screamstone/CA2008/bike%20mods/th_IMG_7409.jpg I'm really happy with how it turned out. I didn't have a perfect size bit for the lighter outlet, but it's close enough, I can't see light around the lighter with the front of the fairing off. But I plan on installing a washer on both sides (those neoprene big washers) to seal it up and reduce jiggle. It looks great as it is, though!!! Here's a more distant shot so you can see better where the mounts fall in the fairing. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg249/screamstone/CA2008/bike%20mods/th_IMG_7410.jpg Oh- and here she is with an f4 windshield with vent installed: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg249/screamstone/CA2008/bike%20mods/th_IMG_7418.jpg This was my first pictoral little tutorial... hope I did it right!! I don't know how to lightbox the images... sorry about the new windows opening!

No bad, you're right!! Except I never saw a t-shirt that said come to the darkside, we have kool-aid... It always says come to the darkside, we have cookies!! http://www.forumsextreme.com/images/fSW_JointheDarkside.jpg http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-11870311283124/darkside2-black.gif http://cdnet.myxer.com/tn/c/444744/big/?t=20080412125223 http://runfatgirl.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/darkside-cookies.jpg

hey gang... kumho on back, pirelli rear reversed on front. Couple spins around the neighborhood seems fine. Different, but fine. Time will tell!!!

Keep in mind, I'm no wrencher. I fancy myself a good problem solver, but generally have stuck to electrical, software, etc... Mechanical stuff (things with engines) have always scared me. But with help (especially from Sleeperhawk and Wanderer when I first got the bike) from all the VR crowd and this amazing site, here's what I've done to the bike in the last couple months: REmoved front tire Checked front brakes Got new tire and reinstalled (perelli rear reversed) REmoved rear tire replaced rear brake pads greased splines and hub finger thingydings replaced rear tire (kumho- darkside experiement in process) Added Wolo horn with carbon one's bracket and harness dynamic clusters in blinkers harley taillight bar lightbar under trunk (soon blink/brakes with Ponch's help) Installed Mic Mutes removed casette deck and made storage area diamond R drink holder (and have backup koozie for the tank cap) replaced missing chrome spacer for saddlebag installed extra cig lighter under seat installed back-off unit installed custom wiring block to wire up the rear lights and make it easy to add more (my own experiment in beta testing) rewired the trailer lighting harness to fix a short installed signal stabilizer (still intermittent fast blink though) Cut windshield down to shorty installed butler seat and bag nuts rk pipes with heat shields from stock pipes riveted on to hide connection installed buddy rich cable installed iphone cradle installed zumo 765t chrome trim on saddlebags and bottom of tank Changed front speakers to polk's Tightened steering head bearings (dang they were loose) change oil change battery Here's the immediate to do list- some lighting for the side of the bike- running lights more lighting in rear kuryakan volt meter on dash Installing a aux jack in the underside of fairing (new idea I have. if it works, I'll write it up) add extra 12v power jack to underside of fairing on right side('nother experiment of mine) f4 shield install (dang when will that thing get here?) make and install leveling links Couldn't have done it without VR and all of you guys in here (and gals). Thanks for everything. I must have gotten at least $1200 out of my $12 already!! Amazing site full of amazing people.