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tvking63

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  1. tvking63
    First, Welcome Phenix Rider. For the stock TCI, the 83 is different that 84-89 but when ordering a IgniTech box, they are all the same and works fine on an 83. The 83 uses a ported vacuum source for the boost sensor, all other years use manifold vacuum. Since the stock boost sensor isn't used with the the IgniTech box 83-89 can all use the same one. If you add a MAP sensor you have to be sure you put your vacuum hose in the right place as the factory hose location on an 83 is different. I didn't realize that the link was broken. Here is the correct link. http://www.ignitech.cz/en/ I've updated the OP with the new link. They don't have a part # system for their products so you have to email them and ask for a Sparker TCIP4 for a 83 Yamaha Venture, or whatever year you bike is. If you think you might add a MAP sensor at some point, be sure to ask them to send some additional electrical pins. Most of the time you get them anyway but not always. You'll need them to run the wires to the MAP sensor.
  2. tvking63
    I updated the OP, adding info about VPV Racing and NAPA MAP sensors, updated some of the pics to hopefully make wiring it up more clear. And updated the existing links to purchase a MAP sensor and connector.
  3. tvking63
    That should work fine. Just be sure to get the 1 Bar version. It's a nice looking setup. I'm going to order one and give it a try. It looks more compact and possibly easier to mount than the stock GM sensor.
  4. tvking63
    Hey KISA, toward the end of the first post there are links to maps for the IgniTech box with and without the MAP sensor. Here is the link for without the MAP sensor but you should go read the thread to get all the details. This map tries to duplicate the original advance curve plus a little modification to try to compensate for the lack of MAP sensor. I don't know if anyone else has a file that works without the MAP sensor or not. If that doesn't get it where you want it, you might want to think about adding a MAP sensor though. It makes part throttle response much better.
  5. tvking63
    #3 cyl is often the first to go in the stock TCI, so I think your assumption is right, your eBay TCI is bad. But since it makes your bike run, we can probably assume that a good TCI will fix your issues. I haven't been keeping up with the Ignitech hardware changes but as Brian mentioned, we've seen one or two Ignitech harnesses wired incorrectly. There is a detailed breakdown of the harness in this thread. Also, did you load a new map onto the box? Or is it just as you got it? Again, I don't know about the latest hardware, but on the earlier ones in the software you had to change the Motorbike Type to Special Setting, under the Bike tab to get it to run at all. Even then it was WAY under powered. But user generated ignition maps from this site will make it run as good as stock, maybe better. Also as Brian mentioned, there are 3 different versions of the software and you need to have the right map and software to go with your hardware. So it would help alot if you can tell us what software you're using and where you got the map you tried to upload.
  6. tvking63
    Don't sweat it. I speak without thinking all the time.
  7. tvking63
    That pens looks pretty cool. I might have to get one just to have around.
  8. tvking63
    I'm almost certain he is. As a former auto mechanic I've seen issues on some cars where the bleeders are just on the side, and it's a PITA to bleed. I used to have a CBR1100XX and they have a linked brake system that could be hard to bleed and the answer there was to reverse bleed it by pushing fluid in the bleeder, up through the system, into the master cylinder. That would probably work here too but probably as easy to take the caliper off.
  9. tvking63
    Thanks for the details Gary. Like you said, no more often than you'd bleed it, the bleeder on the bottom is no big deal. Now to fine a C/T narrow enough to clear the swing arm......
  10. tvking63
    Why didn't I think of that?
  11. tvking63
    On the inboard end, between the end of the grip and the switch housing. The idea is to get air between the grip and the bar, expanding the grip so you can slide it off the bar. It can be tough to do with the ones like pictured because of the chrome metal/plastic rings on the inboard end. Since I was gonna trash the grips anyway, when I did mine I ripped the outboard chrome ends off and slit the end of the grip enough that I could blow air between the grip and bar. It's a little tougher that way because the air pressure isn't helping push the grip off like it would if you were working from the other end, but it worked.
  12. tvking63
    Ding, ding Dingy?
  13. tvking63
    The chrome caps are part of the grips and aren't fastened to the bars. They come of with the grips as an assembly. http://www.vipcycle.com/product_images/s/198/foam4b_cc_copy__60980_zoom.jpg
  14. tvking63
    I have the E3's coming, but I may have to try the Bridgestones next.
  15. tvking63
    Got an email back from IgniTech saying that you have to use the software version that came with your TCIP4. But you can take a v75 file, open it with v80 software, and program it to a v80 TCIP4 but you can't open a v80 file with v75 at all. I've undated the OP to include v80 info
  16. tvking63
    I'm not sure how I did it, but I actually loaded the v75 version of the 11e file back into my bike. Not the v80 version like I thought. So ZERO miles have been put on the 80v of the 11e file. I found this out when I tried to change to different file and the v80 software wouldn't let me load it into the TCIP4. Anytime I open the v80 software while connected to the TCIP4 with the key on you get a warning saying the versions don't match and that the dwell value is of limits. The Read, Verify, and Program buttons are greyed out and all but the TEST tabs are missing. Also the tach reads 41,000 RPM http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6024/5925229652_c394202f37_o.png It appears that you're going to have to use the version of the software that came with your TCIP4. I have an email into IgniTech to verify this. I'll post the info when I hear back.
  17. tvking63
    Thanks for all the input guys. From a price standpoint the Spitfires were temping, but that's partly why I've been running 404's. So I bit the bullet and ordered some E3's
  18. tvking63
    Hadn't thought of that. But I'm not sure how all that figures into a sidecar rig. I have no idea how much weight the SC adds to the rear tire, but it would seem like it would be better to use as high a load rating as I can get, no? But that does come at a cost.
  19. tvking63
    The Spitfire has a great price point but has a load rating of 71, same as the 404. I was hoping to move to something with a higher rating. The E3's are 78's. That's 176 lbs higher load rating.
  20. tvking63
    Thanks for the info but that won't work. The stock VR tire is a 140/90-16 and a 195/55-16 is 2'' wider and there isn't room for it. I'll have to look to see if the come in smaller sizes though. EDIT: I didn't realize that the Kumho was a car tire.
  21. tvking63
    I loaded the with MAP 11e file in the new TCIP4 software (tcip4_v80) and the old software (v75, but on the CD that came with mine the file was named 090715a_tcip4) side by side. I went through all the parameters and everything is the same. So I save the file with the new version and loaded it into my bike. I've put about 100mi on it and as far as I can tell it's not any different. And it should be since all the values look to be the same but I wanted to try it just to be certain. The v80 software has a updated user interface that's a bit more intuitive and few new options that shouldn't concern us unless you're messing with Vboost from/on a Vmax. There also is a new TEST tab that allows you to manually make a few things happen, probably for trouble shooting purposes. I will update the OP to include info about TCIP4 v80.
  22. tvking63
    That's what I'm thinking unless someone gives compelling reason to use something else.
  23. tvking63
    I'm glad it working well for you. I think it's a little odd that it's running so well for you. If you're running the map that came in it, your MAP sensor isn't doing anything so you have no vacuum advance. And on mine the stock map was so conservative that is was obviously down on power and MPG. I'm wondering if IgniTech change the advance curve that comes in it stock. Can you send me a copy of the file so I can compare it to the stock file from mine? I'll PM you my email address.
  24. tvking63
    California Sidecar recommends as little toe as possible but says it usually ends up in the 3/4" to 1 1/4" range. Back to the topic at hand, assuming a c/t is not an option, what tire should run on this tugboat?
  25. tvking63
    Great info Dingy. It's a little more involved than I had hoped but definitely do-able. I always struggle with how much time, effort and money to invest in a bike that's over 25yo. Just to clarify, you're using a Vmax wheel, rotor, caliper mount arm, caliper, and torque arm, and master cylinder? And only the mount arm and torque arm need to be modified. What year Vmax pieces will work or are they all the same? IIRC, they didn't change much, if at all, for a long time. Are the pistons in the Vmax caliper the same diameter as the VR one? Is the curve in the torque arm to clear the caliper? It looks like it might clear without it. Hope the back surgery is successful. Been there, done that.
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