thebighop

I had a similar problem... Last year my cruise quit while on an Iron Butt Run...and it was sorely missed...after that it would engage on occasion, but as soon as I hit a bump it would cancel... I have been through the brake switches, vacuum pump, speed sensor, fuses, wiring, cancel switch...every thing except the clutch switch...which I guess I didn't realize was there. I never thought about that one because I would never entertain the notion of pulling my clutch lever in while the cruise is set at 80 mph and end up lunching the engine... However , after reading some posts in the tech talk threads...I found out about the switch on the clutch...I took it apart and cleaned it, and as I reassembled it..I noticed a LOT of play and wobble in the clutch lever itself...I took it back off and checked the bushings and found that it was now egg shaped at best and the bushing that the plunger tip goes into from the master cylinder was worn away by at least 1/3. What had happened was it wore out just enough to keep the dump switch open, and unless I had pushed the lever out to it's furthest point, it wouldn't allow the cruise to activate. I bought a new lever and bushing, and the problem was solved... I suggest that you look at your clutch lever...it shouldn't have a bunch of travel up and down I guess I should mention that this is on a 2nd Gen 1999 RSV

I had a similar problem with my cruise just quiting for no apparent reason.... After checking the brack swithes and all the rest of the electrical, and vac pump etc, etc...I noticed my clutch lever had a good deal of slop in it....I took the bike out and tried the cruise and no go...I pushed against the clutch lever so it was all the way out and tried again and TA-DA!!!!! it worked...The bushings had worn to an egg shape and allowed the lever to stay off the dump switch just enough so that the switch was made all the time.. New lever and bushing nut for the hydraulic plunger and problem is gone.

I had to do this on both of the seat bolts...turned out to be a good fix.

A can of lemon scented Pledge from the Dollar Store works great for me...and you can get a 3-pack of micro fiber towels for a couple of bucks there too...

Dern Tootin I would!!!

I have found a good pairing with an Elite III (Dumblap) on the front and a Metzler ME880 on the rear... For me it feels better than using matched Elites or Metzlers... Coming to the point that I need to get new shoes, and am leaning toward a CT on the rear and a 140/80/16 EliteIII on the front. A note on the EliteIII...I am down to where the front tire should slide on sandpaper, but it still gets pretty good grip in turns and twisties....

Thanks for the replies...I wasn't sure if they were supposed to be there for starters, and my shop manual doesn't show any details about the wire routing at that point....As long as the ties hold them out of the way, I'll let the sleeping dog lie..... Steve

Has anyone else had this problem? The wire harness for the front turn signals, light bar, etc, is routed right between the steering stops below the headlight...In the past few weeks, a wire has worked up over the stop and been pinched and shorted out the lights. Last night I lost all my lights, I found the right turn signal wire cut and fried, last week it was one of the light bar passing lights, and before that , the same turn signal. I have tried pulling them as far as they will go in either direction, and still stay plugged in, but they keep working back in the line of the pinch point. I used zip ties to get them out of the way this time. I think I have an idea about an alternative way to route them but it may require drilling a hole in the back half of the fairing and feeding them through...this would eliminate the problem altogether... Unless someone has a better idea, I will try that next week... I am heading out for a few days this Friday for a color tour, so I don't want to tear into it right now....stocking up on fuses and electrical tape for the trip in the mean time...