Great White

Say what you want, that's a car someone lopped a wheel off to try and get around a few laws. Not saying someone shouldn't buy one or not be allowed to operate it, just what it obviously is.....

I feel your pain. When my last boy left, he took a chunk of my heart with him. Now we have 3 and 2 of them are in the 11 year range. I keep telling the missus no more dogs but she won't have it. She loves dogs. I'm going to have no heart left at all soon....... But, life goes on. Sadness fades and soon you're left with nothing but memories. Pray that only the good ones remain....

A quick indicator of carb slides and diaphragms working as per is to pull the air cleaner lid and filter, start the bike and then blip the throttle lightly. You should see the slides and needles (for lack of a better word) bouncing. If they're not bouncing or one or more are not moving, your diaphragms are suspect and warrant closer inspection. Pulling the carb diaphragm covers off will allow you to inspect the diaphragms for condition and security.

To bring my part of this thread full circle; I was right when I said my mpg sucked. To explain: The bike started missing the other day. Get home and discover that two of the 4 throttle slide diaphrams had seperated from the slides. I pulled all the diphram covers off and discovered the 2 had seperated completely, the other two were in place but the backing rings were loose. I was somewhat amazed the bike ran at all but it was being a real trooper and ran fairly smooth until it just couldn't fight the good fight anymore. I reseated all the diaphrams and took it for a ride. Smooth power everywhere again. In retrospect, that's likely why it was so hard for me to make smooth throttle transitions form on and off throttle. No progression on the slides. Likely lagging or jumping postions and just generally wreaking havoc on the needle postion. And now, a few days out, I'm at 65 KMS on the clock and the fuel gauge is just beginning to flicker between full and the next lowest bar (mostly staying on the full bar). Before, I was down around 1/2 tank or less at about 80 kms on the clock. So, I'm going to say (tentatively) problem found and yes indeed; my mpg did suck! And I will be adding an item to my annual maintenance check list: remove carburetor diaphram covers and confirm throttle slide sealing rings are seated.

You are correct. Only way the slide can "rotate" in its bore is if it becomes separated from the diphram, which will present the same as a failed diaphragm. There is an indentation in the diaphragm seat, but even if using an aftermarket diaphragm without the tab, it would still have to separate to rotate as the diaphragm is held captive by the cover. Just went through this myself. The slide had separated from the sleeve that holds the diaphragm captive and it presented symptoms the same as a failed diaphragm. I don't see how the slide rotating makes any difference (other than it has separated from the diaphragm). Outside of the mentioned holes, the slide and needle are symmetrical....

Any decent locksmith should be able to get side boxes open. The side boxes use the double sided ign key, but the lock tumbkers themselves are only single sided. I just had my 83 locks apart to fix a sticking side box latch assembly and this is the way they are made. A simple key "rake" procedure will pop 'em open with a few tries with an experienced touch.

Trying to pm dingy but it says his pm box is turned off?

No orings in the 86 petcock that I have. The insides are a plastic material that simply cycles openings, much like a rotary valve works. The only gasket/oring is on the cover or turning cover if you prefer. Where did this concept of a "reserve tank" come from? Every motorcycle tank I've ever had is just one tank with a petcock that draws from two separate height standpipes. The stand pipes are either integrated in to one assembly or they are separate. The 86 petcock I have is no different in that it has two separate standpipes: http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r618/justonepict/5337E2DF-03E6-42BC-8A85-9AB35EDA19CF_zpsz6bstgbh.jpg http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r618/justonepict/EA341FD7-B0E5-4D91-AD61-327AECF86B95_zpsnu9mgkhk.jpg . I'm thinking maybe I should take a few pictures of the one I have to try and clear up some of the misconceptions that seem to be floating around here....(edit: added pictures) In simple diagram terms, it works like this: http://www.triumphrat.net/attachments/twins-technical-talk/38672d1310169148-are-there-two-different-fuel-tubes-petcock.jpg The OEm's intent is for the owner to run in the "on" and switch to "res" when the engine stutters. That way you know without doubt you have "X" amount of fuel in the tank and better start looking for a fill asap. First hit on google: http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m120/Terp84Alum/Bike/02XL1200cPetcock.png At any rate, I'm not trying to tell anyone how to run their petcock (is it just me or does that sound wrong? ). But know that it is intended to be used a certain way, that's why it's built the way it is. If someone want to run the tank to dry and switch to the "black caddilacs" for transport, no skin off my bee-hind. Personally, I use the res position on all my bikes. It's not the way I know if I need fuel, it a way of the bike telling me there is only "X" amount of feul left and you better act accordingly. When its necessary to switch to res, the amount of fuel in the tank is a known quantity because it is a function of the height of the stand pipes. Nothing more, nothing less. To me, that's valuable information as I know I can get a high of "X" mileage and a low of "X" mileage depending on how I ride. That means I can know if I'm going to make the next station or if I have to get out my phone and CAA membership card. Just a different way of doing business. Being a SAR helicopter operator, perhaps I'm somewhat more focused on fuel than most. For me, fuel is life. I want to know just what I have in the tank and exactly what I have to do about it. Everyone is free to do as they wish. I'll use the res position thanks. Anyways, this thread has gone off so high and right I no longer have any interest in it. Carry on as y'all see fit!

We agree to disagree.

gent in the link seems to have done it. Looks like he made a sort of gasket for the headlight/windscreen interface though....

Not sure, I just remember driving past it on my way through Calgary way back when....

Is JT's Motorcycles and parts still in Calgary? Maybe give 'em a ring?

If you find a wrecked 83 (and I believe an 84), they already have a clear glass cover over a standard square headlight. grab the cover and the surround/gasket for it. Makes a retrofit a bit easier and the parts fit like factory because, well, they are. Edit: ah, after looking at one of the links already posted above, I see it's already been done that way....

Well said!

Post is a little vague, some context is needed. Link to example of said subjects? But in general terms, advice on and open forum is usually opinion from general populace. Something may work as described, it may not. It's kind of like the "if everyone jumped off the bridge would you" comments your mom would make. There's also the what worked for the last few guys to fix a similar problem may not be what works for the next guy. That's why there is a troubleshooting process for every system. It's meant to systematically eliminate the logical items to ferret out the actual problem. Without the troubleshooting process being conducted, a perceived "fix" may only be a band-aid solution vice the resolution to the real problem. Then again, some people are just obstinant and want to hear the answer they want to hear. This can either be from their personal point of view or very often, because the right answer means money or skills they just don't have. That answer is all a little vague, but so was the question so that's the best I can comment to it.

Post is a little vague, some context is needed. Link to said subject?

Personally, I've never considered a boss hoss as an option as a bike. Seems to me, the market for those behemoths is better as a trike....

Hers the closest I could find on you tube: Royal star not a venture. But that should be close I would think. Too loud for me, but your pref might find it acceptable....

If you lived closer I've got a set of 86 muffs up in my parts loft. Problem is, can post from ns to ab would cost and arm, leg and a certain right orb we usually don't want to part with. They're also what I would call functional and still chrome, but definitely not show quality. Are you sure you can't find a set or reasonable pipes in AB? Lots of rust free metal out there in the prairies....sask more so then most. There was a decent bike wrecker in Regina when I was posted in MJ, but that was 20+ years ago....

My .02: 5 years on 400 cc scooter to a 880 -ish lb 1300 cc bike is a fairly big jump. I can't see the height being a problem. I'm 5' 9"+ and just over 200 lbs. I also ride an 83 Venture, which is supposedly taller in the seat than the later models. You should be able to plant both very at a stop fine I would think. My concern would be with the power and handling differences. The 83 is the biggest bike I've ever had. Over 34 odd years I've progressed from 350 2 strokes to the largest before this bike which was/is a 750 interceptor. I jumped in to the liter+ class with both feet and bought the Venture and an FJ2100 at the same time. It took several weeks to feel comfortable with the Venture and just the other day started preparing for two up riding with the wife on the back at a standstill in the garage. I've got another month or two solo before I'll even think about taking the missus with me. The FJ12 is significantly lighter than the venture (but still a 550-600 pounder), but I've discovered a couple times that it is not a bike that will suffer fools lightly. Breaking that rear tire loose is no more than an ill considered twist on the right grip......at any speed, in any gear, at any lean angle or even straight up.....only thing that's saved my bacon thus far is the decades of experience working up to bikes this big and powerful. If you do elect to jump right in to the big pool, give yourself at least a few months to get used to it before throwing the missus on the back for even a jaunt around the block. Take your time and be cautious and you won't drop it. Watch for sand in slow speed parking lot entries as, if you low side these behemoths, you're not saving it. Just get out of its way and let it go.go to empty parking lots on weekends and work up to slow speed figure 8's and other maneuvers. Don't rush it, take your time and build up to those slow speed clutch and brake evolutions. There's also nothing wrong with taking a riding class, even if you already have. Make sure your instructors know you'll be handling a big bike and that's what you want to get some help with. I really would suggest a bike in between your 400cc walk though and a liter+ sized machine if you want to develops your confidence and riding skills. Something in the 750 size range. Others will no doubt differ in opinion, but that's my .02 PS: for what its worth, I haven't crashed, dropped or lowsided a bike since I was 20.......

Wow. Sad.

Waco mess? link to a news article please?

Suzuki made a rotary (Wankel) bike. Never caught on bit the guys I knew who had one held on to them like they were gold.....

review from 2009: http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/1998-boss-hoss-riding-v-8-motorcycle

Nope, my 83 pulls like a freight train when up on the main jet. Pretty much a Linear torque curve. You've got something going on I'd say. I'm just swapping venture cruise on to my 83 so all I can offer you is I've read brake and clutch levers can be problematic. Its often recommended to push them out and if cruise engages, you have you're problem. Fuses are also a good place to look and it doesn't engage below (iirc) 50 kph. Clunk. Mine clunkers over bumps all the time. Hard to chase down as most of it is the luggage making noise on its removable mounts. I would suggest you check then steering head bearings for play also.