Great White

Yep. They were on the bow for 2 hrs before we got to them. Automatic liferaft deployment failed on them. Went down so fast they had no time for anything except scramble out of their bunks. Luckily their beacon was tied to a bouy and popped up a couple minutes after it went under. Just as we pulled the last guy off the boat it reared up, popped its bubble that was caught in the bow and went straight to the bottom. Lucky boys...

Here's how I spent mine: http://thechronicleherald.ca/novascotia/1295874-fishermen-rescued-from-sinking-vessel#disqus_thread Poor buggers were pretty cold by the time we got to them.

Yep, the kit comes with two mics, both are "stick on" and a connector plug. It also has a headphone jack in the back if you would rather go that way. I don't think the plug is made for regular connect disconnect, but you could use it that way if you wanted. Like I mentioned, I just ran the wiring through my modular helmets and the stock on mic is super small and low profile. The boom mic used to bug me, but I don't even know the small one is there...

On one hand I want to say "neat idea" and on the other I want to say "just give it up and buy a car": [video=youtube;IOON8l-VPWM]

Link no work unless you are a member...

Oooo, that's a very good point....

Little gif showing the needle/emulsion tube at work: http://www.factorypro.com/images/carb_shots/emutube2.gif Just ran across it and thought it looked neat.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDgwMA==/z/qjkAAOSwhwdVUO6I/$_27.JPG http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDUzWDYwNA==/z/VZIAAOSwNSxVUO3F/$_27.JPG Don't think I would do it myslef, but it's an interesting solution to where to put switches and ports....

My 83 had the same issue on the LH bag. I pulled the latch assembly apart and found there was a square "key" that sets in a square recess in the part that retracts the locking tab. The tumbler assembly would "ride up" in it's bore and had rounded the corners on the square key and slot. It's all just cheap/soft pot metal inside so any slop is only going to get worse, fast. This is one of those things that just grew upon itself until the latch wouldn't even move when working against the bag retaining tab. The key/tumbler would just lift and spin with no effect. I ended up using a bit of jb weld to press the key and slot together to give it more "tooth" and attempt to rebuild the slot to the key. Wasn't enough, so I cut a small washer/shim (couple thou thick) to slip under the tumbler assembly to keep it from riding up in its bore. Truthfully, it probably should have had a shim in it from the get go since the manufacturing tolerances looked way too sloppy when I took it apart. I don't know how it didn't round the corners off sooner. I'm thinking about taking the other locks apart to check, but they don't show any of the tumbler cylinder climbing out of its bore that this one did. Then I had to file off the tab as it had formed a small "hook" in it's end. Now, the bag comes off with the key fine. Was a lot of "fiddley work" to get it that way though.....Probably should have snapped a pic or two while doing it, but wasn't thinking about that at the time.

That's kinda freaky. I know my manual says not to travel without the boxes in the lock postion, maybe that's why. Possibly vibrate open?

You know, I had a similar issue on my 83 but it was the actual lever pivot where it goes through the frame. It had been sitting long enough that it had rust inside the bore. This caused the lever to not move freely and return to the released position. The return spring just didn't have enough "poop" to overcome the drag. I had to pull the pivot out, clean and lube the bore and reassemble. No brake drag or stop light issues since. Not likely your issue, but worth an check. All you have to do is press the pedal a couple times and verify it returns to the same position each time. I found mine by pulling up on the lever and each time it had some up travel left that would let the wheel roll freely and turn the brake light off. It was very deceptive because there was enough "slop" in the linkage that it looked like free play but the brake was actually still on a tad. Good luck

Like a manual trans in a car, there's actually very little in a bike transmission: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTYwWDEyODA=/z/5OQAAOSwpdpVYJS2/$_57.JPG That's the 2002 I just purchased. Top is the middle gear and transmission gears, middle is all transmission gears and the bottom is the shift sector. Little one at the bottom is not a player. Shift forks and shafts are around the perimeter. Typically, your symptoms are a result of the pins falling out of the sector, but your bike should have the new model sector (like pic above) which eliminates this problem. Could be bent pins, but that would be a one in a million shot (I would think) with the newer design. After that, you're kind of down to a bent/worn shift forks or a dog engagement problem. The newer transmissions are supposed to eliminate these issues also. Either way, I don't think you're going to get away without at least pulling the clutch cover off. There is the possibility that your clutch springs have either "relaxed" or the bolts have come a little loose from the miles (happens as parts wear to each other and/or go through a couple heat cycles). You could also give the interior shift linkages a look over. They're just stamped sheet metal parts and have been known to bend and cause shifting issues. If you just had the cover off, you probably know the linkage I'm talking about. Lastly, Make sure your shift lever is low enough that the rotation of your ankle is sufficient to engage the gears effectively when shifting up. You'd be surprised how many guys have told me about their bikes missing up shifts and when I look at their bike the shifter is waaay to high, causing them to have to over rotate their foot and resulting in weak shifter movement. I personally like to have my shift lever pretty low so that my ankle still has lots of rotation left after the up shift is done. It allows me to do a very positive up shift if I run it right up against the shift drum and still have some force left in my ankle/foot. Comes from road racing I guess: missed shift usually means loosing a positions. Doesn't sound like your issue, but it's quick and easy to check, especially if you're in the middle of a trip... Good luck and safe travels.

Rainx works for worms too?

Ah, I see. I would suggest you look at the sena clamp kit that has the wired mic: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SENA-SMH10-Replacement-Helmet-Clamp-Kit-w-Attachable-Wired-Boom-Mic-/271905021577?hash=item3f4ecd5e89&vxp=mtr I bought mine from that vendor and it ended up around 65 bucks iirc. The reasons you give are pretty much exactly why I swapped mine out for the wired mic. I have !multiple security checks I have to pass through at work and I have to open and close my modular helmet repeatedly. The wired mic is stuck to the chin guard and goes up and down with it with no troubles. The wiring is run under the helmet padding. Was well worth it for me. You'd have to decide if it fits your use though. Only problem is it's going to put a $65-odd hole in your wallet which is over your budget.

Eeewwww....

Will introduce some speedometer error, will have you carrying a few more revs on the highway. Will also make the rear a smidge lower, affecting ground clearance and possibly front end handling (slight change in effective rake angle and weight bias). But will also give you a smidge more on the bottom end with acceleration. Personally, I'd rather have the spec tire on the machine. Especially if that's what I had ordered....

Ah yes, I remember ICBC. Couldn't stand that "effin" gov't ins racket. It was teh same in every province I lived in that had it: overpriced and no choice. Newfoundland was the only place where private ins wanted as much as gov't. This year I paid $260 for 12 months on my Venture and my FJ12 here in NS. That's 260 for BOTH bikes. Not trying to brag, just can't stand gov't ins schemes. Not sure what you need to get rid of the boom mic for, but Sena also offers a clamp kit with a wired mic. The boom and a small stick on mic can be disconnected from the clamp part. They're intended more for full face installations. I have one in my modular helmet. Only problem is they're also going to run you around 65-70 bucks...

I was going to suggest the hook/spring assembly is stretched, but it's already been mentioned. That's where I would place my bet if your switch is all the way up on the nut....

Personally, I find much more than 4-6 riders together to be a major PITA. Once you're over that number, odds are you're going to have people of very different skill levels, ethos, patience/impatience, etc. I also find over 4-6 riders clogs up too much of a span on a 2 lane road, making it nearly impossible for someone to pass if they want to. If I'm doing the speed limit and someone wants to pass at a faster clip, I want them to go around. I don't want them behind me pushing until they feel they can take a chance to rip by. That's not safe for anyone. I've had a couple times when ....*ahem*....."people" have ripped around me only to be laughing at them getting a ticket further down the road or me pulling over to say "are you alright" when their car has become a tangled wreck. As far as I'm concerned if they want to go then I let them. Let them deal with the consequences of their actions far away from me... I avoid those groups that are miles long rows of bikes. It may look cool, but it's a bit ignorant to other drivers and usually nothing but trouble. Unless it's a ride for sight, toys for tots ride or similar event. Those are slow, organized, publicly sanctioned and usually police escorted. I've been "ride boss" on a couple big groups. The law I always lay down is no more than 4-6 in a bunch. Anymore than that and we split into equal groups and they're not allowed to "link up" into a big slinky. The groups that big usually split into guys who want to go fast in the first group, guys that just want to enjoy the ride in the second group and the "plonkers" in the last group. We all get to the destination happy and ready for more. Fast guys already have a coffee downrange and almost done talking about their "hero" moves (or scares), second group is usually just sitting down with their coffee and pulling out go pros and such and the last group is usually just pulling in with coffee on their minds and glad to be alive. Everyone seems to enjoy the ride much more when I've run them like that instead of a big long slinky where everyone is on and off the throttle or forced to ride like the slowest in the bunch. Other drivers on the road don't seem to give us trouble that way either. Each group only takes up about the length of a semi (or less), so it's very manageable with traffic...

Maybe I should open the housing on the MKII cluster I have in the garage and see if it is adjustable like some older speedometers.....

I'm going to hold back my opinion because it won't be nice and it won't be popular. All I'll say is groups I ride with stay at/under the speed limit and appropriate for road/traffic conditions. Basically we flow with traffic and don't obstruct it. We use the road, we don't own it....

Take an accredited motorcycle course, follow the rules of the road and ride within your abilities. Don't let anyone push you past that. Ride with groups at your skill level or above. Groups I ride with are all types of bikes. Cruisers, sport bikes and tourers. All depends on who shows that day and what the guy owns. We often split off into splinter groups as the road and riding demands. Limiting yourself to a group because they all ride a certain type of bike or similar reasons is (in my experience) a disaster waiting to happen. Similar skill level and riding mentality is what you want to shoot for. If the group is doing things I don't like, I'm gone. If there are individuals in our group doing things we don't like, they're gone. It's as simple as a "see you later" wave and a right turn down a side road. Sometimes it's a happy turn and you find cool things you would have missed had you not taken that turn.... That's the mantra I've always followed. Serves me well. Those guys that are being stupid? Well, you can't fix stupid and as cold as it sounds: they'll either get good, see the errors of their ways or natural selection will weed them out.....

Not a member there, linky no work. Only goes to the general tech library page...

Slider is not supposed to rotate in the diaphragm....

Unless the diaphragms are not original, they are "keyed" in the carb housing. Should be a little tab that sits in the recess in the groove. Mine came apart, but I just cleaned the slides and bores with a lint free cloth and then reassembled the slide/sleeve with normal hand pressure. been running fine since and that was (I'm guessing a bit) about a month ago now. Ride it back and forth to work every day (unless it's raining buckets that is). A VERY light buttering of silicone probably wouldn't hurt to snug it up some. Just be sure to not use silicon that has that "vinegar" smell. That type attacks rubber and deteriorates it. Not so sure I would use crazy glue, unless you never intend/need to replace the diaphragms....