Great White

I would think if it wasn't finalized it wouldn't have worked on my desktop either. I just pulled the info off the disc, then burnt it to a new one and it worked in my laptop just fine.

Depends on your definition of "needed". Chassis is pretty loose as delivered. Removing the cross brace will just make it more so but it's not like the bike is going to fold in half or spit you off at the first corner. The VMax boys often add a brace in pretty much the same spot. Their backbone is also a little bit different. IIRC, spread open a bit more do to the added height of the VBoost system. Personally, I'd leave it in place. But I also push the chassis pretty hard most days.....

With only 1% separating the top 3, I'd call that pretty much even.....

Let's see, broad strokes: Paper route, fast food, fast food, jobber parts counter, chysler dealership parts, auto mechanic, then airframe tech RCAF, AVN tec RCAF, Flight Engineer RCAF and soon to be retired (or medical release, not sure how its going to go). All this was concurrent with: high school, university, trades training and continuing education post university. Picked up my auto mechanic license, AME cert, a couple Degrees and a few medals along the way. A few of those medals I could do without..... Now, looking at maybe a welding course post military and go for my red seal. Maybe start my own small shop to keep a little busy during retirement doing small jobs and make a few extra bucks to supplement the pension, mostly to support my automotive hobby stuff. Probably just work summers and head south for the winter. I've already had job offers once it got out that retirement is in front of me, but its more SAR flying. Not sure I can do that anymore.....hard to just get in an airplane now.

I had a similar problem on my laptop. Worked fine on my desktop though...

The rear diff on the Ventures (1st and 2nd gen) is the highest ratio Yamaha has offered (33/10). You might find a virago diff with a higher ratio, but all I've ever been able to find is the 33/10 on Viragos (I was actually looking for lower gears). Then there's if they will fit a Venture. Chances are good they will because Yamaha is a "parts bin" company (IE: they keep recycling "paid for" engineering), but you'll be blazing new territory if you try.....

The royal shock also has the air line entering the shock body in a different spot. If you're lucky, there's maybe 30 lbs difference between standard and Royale. Essentially, the radio and class stuff. I'd estimate the radio stuff to weigh in around 5-6 lbs (based on holding the radio amp and other components in my hands) and maybe another 3-4 lbs for the CLASS components. Chuck in a little more for extra wiring and a few bits and I'd be surprised if you top 20 lbs, so say 30 lbs to be safe. Guys add more than that to these bikes in chrome and other farkles.....

The one you have pictured is off a standard venture. The royals would have the class setup and that shock has the manual adjustments.

The shock is also exposed to mechanical advantage through the linkage when installed. I've never tried to compress one by hand, but I doubt you would be able to. Also don't understand you "spring" comment. Both standard and Royale have a spring....

meh.

I usually get the fuel light at around 180 Km's. city or highway. Fuel mileage has always kinda sucked on my 83.....

meh, like that never happens on this forum.....

Actually, I'm starting to think just paint so I can touch it up whenever I want.....

From what I know of the po's, very doubtful its been done. FJ's are as solid and simple as a stone axe. Wouldn't surprise me if its never been touched. Anyways, as mentioned; I ain't fixing what ain't broken.....

As you're is an 84, if you still have the original shift drum in there, the pin in the shift selector drum may have fallen out. It would be a coincidence, but sometimes it happens.

Not planning to do much. Certainly not a "how to series" or anything like that. Maybe some pics as I go along. Not really my thing anymore. I'm just in it for the work and using it afterwards. Won't be a lot to see anyways. Just a black engine with VMax heads and new rear boxes.....probably some blacked out chrome as well. Likely powder coated since the chrome off the 86 is not "savable" and rechroming is mucho deniro....

From your description, I would check the area again first....

Hmmm, just personal curiosity, but I wonder which units have the capacity to hold two programs.......

Don't know, haven't checked. I've only had it since April. Haven't even done an oil change yet. Runs strong and smooth. No oil usage. no smoke on start, idle, over run or acceleration. Plugs are that nice shade of brown. It's got starter chain slap, but they all do after about 20-30,000. I'm not messing with what ain't broken.

Had a look but can't find the "350 diesel" part? Seems they're all Freightliner chassis' with the Cummins 6.7 in thier literature for new ones. Are you talking about a 350 Cat diesel? Most Cats in MH applications don't have the best reputation. The C7 seems to had a fairly bad rep for injectors and heads. Truthfully, almost all modern diesel manufactures are having issues with their products lately, in road applications at least. I blame the tightening emissions regulations and how it is making the engines run hotter and harder. Research your chassis and powertrain before you plunk down your cash. It's not just about how pretty or how comfortable a MH is or wheter or not the roof leaks or the walls delam. What I find lots of people don't consider is it might be something like a Freightliner chassis, which people think is "industrial strength". But as a MH (and it's usually their lightest cab and chassis model under the MH to save $$), it's usually always running close to it's GVWR. IE: always under stress. Gawd help you if these monsters mechanically breaks down on you somewhere....$$$$$$!

I've always wanted a Prevost conversion with tandem/triple axle trailer. Something like this: http://m8.i.pbase.com/v3/66/482766/1/45378308.prevost.jpg Ideally: shop tools in front, bikes on raised lift and a "run about" car on the bottom (missus will ride as a passenger, but she's not fanatical about it). A Prevost bus conversion inside is seldom a place you don't want to spend some time. Alas, my desire often outstrips my budget though...

That's the FJ and nope. Sound as a pound. You don't mess with something if its not a problem. Unless you want it to become a problem that is....

Nothing wrong with towing a bike to a destination and then doing some local exploring. Highway riding is a bore. Time wasted IMHO. Personally, I'd rather spend it in a motorhome towing a bike trailer. Wife can get up and move around, make popcorn, bring me a coffee, watch TV etc. We arrive warm and dry, park the rv and ready to ride instead of wind weary, possibly wet and then look forward to setting up a tent and sleeping on the ground. F that tent and sleeping on the ground noise. I just turned 50...well: done that, got the TShirt. I've earned my stripes and now want some comfort when traveling. Besides, with a MH/trailer setup I can bring a couple different bikes and my tools. The trailer becomes base camp and a shop. I can fix mine (or someone else's) bike on the spot. At the end of the day, the bikes get all locked up safe and sound in the trailer. Leave it locked to the MH and a simple alarm on the rear door and they're safe from theft, joyriders or vandals. Maybe I'll go look at motorhomes again today.....

I usually just rest it on my leg/lap and hold the bar with the left hand. I've got a messed up RH wrist, so I'm usually working my fingers or shaking it to get blood flow and feeling back into my hand. Right now I use a throttle lock, next year the bike will have cruise.

I use a wood burning tool. Nice low heat and it creeps up on the melt. There's a fairly fine line between just enough and too much. If you start seeing "bubbling", you've gone too hot and the plastic is ruined. It sort of crystallizes and becomes brittle. Grab some scrap pieces and have a go. Just like metal welding, practice is king!