Great White

It'll slot right in like a replacement engine. You'd be able to use second gear again too. Once you get 'er done, I might see about riding down there and we can line 'em up and lay some rubber! See which hits the finish line first: your Vmax transplant Venture or my VMax converted Venture. Both 83's too!

My 83 seat if more comfortable to spend time on than the 87 seat for sure....

Not so sure on a carb engine of the need for all parameters. Spark control is actually quite simple. Tps for advance (same function as a centrifugal dist), map to pull advance for load and a knock sensor to pull advance for knock is about all that's needed. You start getting into the rest for fuel control. The early "electronic carbs" from the early 80's (just prior to speed density TBI systems) only had map and tps for spark control as that's about all that is needed. There's only so much you can do with spark control alone. Still, I wish the ignitech had both and not either/or. I've always found maf to be more of a PITA than anything else. Speed density has always been more friendly to "tuning". The maf itself is often a constraint that is hard to overcome when talking hp. Maf works fine for a driver, but speed density is better/easier for modifying. IMHO that is. I pretty much dropped gassers a while ago. Same as I dropped obdI tuning. I mostly do diesels in obdII these days. Power is there for the taking with just fuel and timing......big power. None of that scratching and fighting for 5-10 hp gains on a Gasser. Zip up the fuel and boost, adjust timing and grab another 25-50 hp with no other changes and still not oberstressing the rotating assembly. Yeah, that's the ticket! If you're thinking of going microsquirt and FI, you're in for a long road. Lots of buggering around just to get the spark and fuel tables right for driving. Then there's the enrichment tables, etc etc....

My 1200 will cruise 2000 rpm around town with no complaints. Acceleration is a bit lazy there and just whacking open the plates will get some shudder. I do tend to keep it more around 2500-3000 though. Throttle is just a little more controllable in that range for on/off transitions and acceleration is clean, regardless of throttle opening. Pretty flat (comparatively) over 5-6000 rpm. Vmax heads and cams should fix that this winter....

Kinda bummed. No rain until tonight now. Lost a day of riding...

Correct on the ignitech. Its an either/or proposition between MAP and TPS....

X2 on the larger trunk. I put the 85 trunk on my 83. Huge in comparison. All you have to do is swap the rack and deal with different keys for it from the ignition. I swapped the keys on the side boxes for the keys on the 85 so all the luggage matches keys. Nice being able to open the luggage without turning the bike off. It's come in handy once or twice already. Like pulling my rain gear out of the side boxes sitting under an underpass on the side of the highway while rain hammered down...

Supposed to be 100 mm of rain coming today. That's just a bit much for me to ride in wearing work clothes. Even if I do wear the frog toggs.. It's the truck to go to work today for me. Sure glad I got the roof on the shed yesterday. I guess it will get a good "leak test" today too!

After reading a few threads, it seems the frames were reinforced in 84 so you should be good to go.

Bags are same, so are mounts. Still uses the two!pot calipers. Forks will not take r6 calipers. 86 was first year for those forks. 86 has the frame reinforcements, not sure about 85.

Oh, the other thing I should mention is the 86+ frame is reinforced where the earlier frames have been know to crack and split. Under the rear of the engine where the rear suspension acts against the frame. That may or may not matter to you. A spare frame takes up a lot of space if it's hanging around "just in case". I tossed my 86 frame before I knew they were different. I likely would have held on to it had I know then what I know now....

The radio was more if you wanted to keep the OEM stuff going. Mine is an 83 Standard and I don't miss any of the stereo/intercom/CB stuff. I use my iPhone 6 Plus and a Sena SMH10 for intercom, music and communication. Far superior to the OEM stuff from 1983-91 IMHO. If it still has the rear center piece between the boxes (kind of like a fender) where the license plate goes, I'd be interested in it. This piece: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/McQAAOSw7NNUDgkZ/$_57.JPG If it has the sealing rubbers on the end and is in good shape that is. The one I have has one of the license plate holes broken out, on of the rubbers is missing and there's two big holes in it where someone attached a rubber mudflap. Not looking to pay a lot for it as shipping and exchange will be killer. Maybe the "Yamaha" reflector bar that goes between the turn signal lights too: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDgwWDY0MA==/$T2eC16dHJG!E9nm3rIO7BQfyBZn!MQ~~60_57.JPG Mine is all cracked and broken from someone trying to put lights in it. If you can get that stuff for a decent price and wouldn't mind shipping it that is...

Swap your 84 front end for the 87 front end complete "as is". Pop the upper triple off and slid the whole thing oout of the steering stem. The put the 87 in and torque to spec. The 4 piston calipers are better than the 2. You can also bolt on a set of blue dots (R1/6) if you want more. The 84 forks won't fit the blue dots. You need the 87 front master cylinder. Se my reply to your other thread for more info.

If you're taking the mufflers, take the passenger footpeg mounts. The 83-85 are different fromt eh 86+ where the mufflers mount. Not really interchangable. Missus woudl probably appreciate the floorboards too. Take the front forks and the front master if you ever want to put R1/6 brakes on it. Front wheel for the brake discs. If they both have cruise control, grab the front brake and clutch masters for the 4 wire switches. They are no longer made and have input to the cruise control. The rest of the cruise components don't swap between 84 and 87. CLASS controller if they both have it. Never hurts to have a spare. Radio control head if they both have it. Amplifiers seem pretty solid, radio control heads seem to get a little flakey with age. I'd grab the side covers if the side vents are still intact. Jut beacause they all seem to break and good ones are hard to come by. I'd grab the windscreen if it's good. Then you can cut one down for more airlflow in city riding and have a high one for long distance highway travel. If it still has a good rear brake rotor: GRAB IT! They're as rare as hens teeth these days and just about as valuable. You can sell it for a couple decent bucks or pass it on to someone who needs one. If you want the larger trunk and bags on your 84, take the whole rear subframe and crash bar pieces. Right down to the trim and headlights. Subframe is different between 83-85 and 86+ and it's all about the differnt boxes. That's about all I can think of off the top of my head that you might want. I'd say grab the engien and carbs just becasue it's a 1300, but the carbs are already gone. You might want to grab the rear differential and drive shaft. Good for spares if you get a worn spline assembly or if you want to sell it to a VMax guy. They very often swap in teh Venture rear diff for lower RPM. You might even find a guy to trade if you'd like try a VMax diff.

Just got back from the doc. BP true 129/89 , 88 BPM. They're happy with that as it falls in teh "normal" range. we'll see if Ramipril can hold it there. I tend to level off and then climb back up as I get used to the meds. I'm actually having dizzy spells and feeling faint after getting up from a seated postion as my BP drops and then recovers. Just a matter of time for the bod to become acclimated to the new lower pressure and I'll be good to go...hopefully.

High stress job. Literally life and death decision making. 25 years has taken its toll. Sodium restriction and pills are only moderately effective for me. High bp is also genetic for me. Runs in the family. Grandfather died at 50 from malignant hypertention, uncle lost his kidneys, other uncle had high bp issues and so did my father. I've kinda got the perfect storm scenario going on....

Yep, that's what the meds limit retention on. Sodium uptake. I laready limit my intake as much as I can, but it's not effective for me.

As soon as black ice is a concern or I'm just not enjoying it anymore because I'm too damned cold. Whichever comes first.

It does indeed have a reed switch. It how the bike senses it's speed for cruise and cancelling turn signals (although turn cancel also functions off time). If you want to keep the cruise, you need to find a way to give the cruise the reed switch signal. either actually a signal or simulated. You're outside my areas of expertise on that....

I have an old contour 1080p HD. Small, light dead nuts reliable. HD quality. Not the best cam at night though. Functional and acceptable is how I would describe it. Best of all: they go for 50 bucks or less used on eBay these days....

Sorry, I c@cked that one up. Sounds lean, not rich...

Sounds like rich at idle...

This is why I still use an old set of mercury filled carb stix. Too bad they've gone the way of the DODO bird....

I'd say you are probably having some setup or maintenance issues. Suspension settings, age, old tires, tire pressure, dry bearings/linkage, etc. I can toss my 83 around almost as agressively as my FJ1200. In some cases, it's easier to "flick" side to side than the FJ....mostly at low speed and probably due to the increased leverage the wider bars have on the venture.

Lots of times, guys have thier shift lever too high. What this means is you can't get full rotation of your ankle for positive engagement on a shift. I'd check there first. Of course, if the damage is already done to the shift dogs or forks, it's coming apart to fix it....