XV1100SE

That's a matter of opinion, one I don't share. I don't like the angles (especially the saddle bags and trunk). Trunk looks like it was an after thought. The front fairing doesn't do it for me. And what is with the antenna mounted where it is and the angle? On spec...still doesn't match the RSV in areas I consider important : CCT air/oil cooled belt drive v-twin RSV liquid cooled shaft drive 4 cylinder I think the few things the CCT does have over the RSV : ABS brakes Fairing wind deflectors ....it's still being manufactured (some would add fuel injection but there are pros and cons with fuel injection vs carbs) Specification comparison... - wheel base on CCT is 65.7" and on RSV it is 67.1" - overall length of CCT is 108.1" vs RSV 104.5" - dry weight of CCT is 845lbs vs 807lb - horsepower of CCT 88.6 is vs RSV 97hp - torque of CCT is 106ft-lbs vs RSV 89ft-lbs - suspension travel : - forks - CCT 5.1" vs RSV 5.5" - rear shock - CCT 4.7" vs RSV 4.1" - seat height of CCT is 26.3" vs RSV 29.5" Although the CCT has a 106CI/1731cc motor, I still prefer the V4 over a twin. With 4 cylinders and liquid cooled, the RSV will run forever.

When I saw the first pics of that load...my thoughts too were "you need a trailer !"

Self preservation. She probably figured she could find a boyfriend that made more money and could afford to take her to hotels instead of a tent in the woods.

When I recently regreased my bearings, one was "burned". Found I had no grease left in the hub. I should have added more during our trip last year. Lesson learned.

Info on making a wiring harness - http://www.etrailer.com/question-10460.html http://www.customcruiserchrome.com/isolator http://www.rivcoproducts.com/~rivcopro/products/product.php?productid=115&cat=410&page=2

From other threads : http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=755052 - This is an odd sized dust cap and is not carried by some places. It measures at 2.06" So those that would like to use A Bearing Buddy would use #2047. Bearings are Timken 30205M 25mmx52mm taper bearing Harbor Freight Tag-a-long trailer uses a grease seal that is 30x52x10mm.

Harbor Freight has them on sale now. $369 and if you have a 20% coupon... great savings !

It isn't the capability of the bike but the bravery of the rider...go too fast and any wife sitting on the back will start poking you !

Lower leg protectors? You mean the lower cowlings? If you are referring to the cowlings, then keep in mind there are electronics inside them. Don't think you would take them off.

Great info ! Thanks !

Bearing buddies go where the dust cap would go but would that just cover the outer bearings ? Does grease from a bearing buddy get to the inside bearings?

Another motorcycle accident/death in Ontario this weekend. Rider and passenger both killed. The past month there have been a number of accidents...so be careful out there. http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/sudbury/2-val-caron-residents-killed-in-head-on-highway-17-crash-1.2669058 Police say an eastbound car moved across the centre lane, sideswiped an oncoming SUV and then struck a motorcycle head on.

The rear bearing and seal did have what appeared to be caked on dirt. The bearing is a tan colour so I think the rear seal may have been loose enough to let dust/dirt in and with lack of grease....well you know the rest. I'm going to replace both bearings on that side, but still questioning how much grease to put in the "void". From the pics you can see where the zerk is and where the opening inside the hub is.

Pics of what the hub looks like...

Our condolences. Don & Nancy

The way I see it... the "void" spins so with some grease in it centrifical force might spread it out to the bearings...but one or two shots of grease wouldn't be enough. I'll post a couple pictures of what I am talking about tomorrow. Thanks for your input.

I'm not using bearring buddies. There is a zerk fitting on the back of the hub that enters into the void between the bearing (front/back). Do I need to fill this cavety?

I have a Harbor Freight Tag-Along trailer which I got a couple years ago. With the help of MarCarl, we replaced the wheel bearing grease with good grease (better than the vasaline they ship it with). That was the first and only time the bearing grease was changed. Since then we've done MD and the WNY rally. Last summer we did 10,000km (6200 miles) with the trailer. The other day when cleaning the garage I moved the trailer and noticed one of the wheels was "sticking" and wasn't turning as freely as the other. Today, I decided I'd better repack the bearings. The bearings on one side (the one turning properly) were still a nice shiny colour. The other side, the back bearings were a brown colour. I've got three of the bearings cleaned and reassembled the "good" wheel. I'm trying to source a replacement for the "burned" bearing and will replace both bearings on the "bad" wheel. Couple questions : 1) when putting the wheel hub back on, I tightened the hub until it was getting stiff to turn then put the cotter pin in. What is the best way to know you have it tight enough? I've done a search and most posts say the wheel should turn "freely" but with the way I did mine I can still feel some resistance but the wheel doesn't bind when turning. Is this okay ? 2) I replaced the zerks when I got the trailer but how much grease do you put in? When I was cleaning everything, I saw that the zerk is open to the void between the bearings (front and back) so it is about a 1" diameter and 3+ inches between bearings. Do I just put a liberal amount in or do I pack it full of grease? Does anyone in Canada know if the bearings at Princess Auto would work? Canadian tire doesn't have any tapered bearings. Good place to source locally or should I just order online? The posts I've seen say that the replacement is 30205 Taper or Timken L44643. For anyone that hasn't repacked their trailer bearings in a while...I'd suggest checking them.

You didn't ask, but read this about DOT 5 - do not use ! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27431

BTW... To make life easier for you, get the trailer wiring harness from M61A1mech - http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4200&title=auxillary-tail-light-harness-for-royal-star-venture&cat=35 I have an RMark trailer hitch http://r-markventures.blogspot.ca/ Carbon One sells them as well - http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3919&title=rsv26amp-3b-rstd-trailer-hitch&cat=24 Get a powered isolator as well as doing the customer recommended mods.

I have this trailer and it works great ! Don't really even notice it back there. We towed it on our trip West (10,000km/6000+ miles) with no problems. We have the original tires on it and no issues pulling it at 75mph. When I bought mine I followed thecustomer comments and did the following : - repack bearings - rubber tubing (actually a piece of garden hose) on the shackle bolt (rear capture bolt) - replaced lights with LED's - put rubber (another piece of black garden hose) thru the holes where the wiring went thru the frame - replaced the zerk fittings - one was broken out of the box - replaced bolts holding the "car carrier" box to the frame with eye bolts. Will replace these with ones I saw at a trailer store that fold flat. This way I can use helmet nets to secure any load down while trailering - shimmed coupler bolts with a couple washers - DON'T over tighten or it squezes the coupler in and the ball release won't work properly I didn't see how to remove the overload spring so I left it in. Didn't flip the axle either. I added a cooler rack to the tongue (made by a neighbour) and have to be careful of the tongue weight. You'll want no more than 25-30lbs of tongue weight. The location of the wheels doesn't give a lot of room for shifting weight but if you add a cooler to the tongue try to put as much weight to the rear as you can.

Glad you made it back !

Reading the description, the electronics is already built in. "Rectangle Reflector Tail Stop Trunk Light. (Black is Ground, Red is Brake, Blue is Running)"

You asked for it...I found pictures ... http://www.shutterstock.com/pic-105625262/stock-photo-vacation-overweight-woman-sunbathe-on-beach.html

If you just tie into the signal/run lighting then you shouldn't need the resistor/load balancer...at least I don't think you would.