XV1100SE

No one on here from Texas has posted that they were involved... good thing. Has anything been reported in the news of the rider's condition?

The maroon 2nd Gen would put it as a 2008. The members who live in TX that have an '08 are listed in the attached picture. Hope all are safe and that the riders involved are okay.

I had a close call two years ago that was another one of those "time in slow motion" incidents....http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71554 Being near mid season... we all need to make sure we are attentive, cautious, aware, and careful.

Good luck to all those in the storm area. Stay safe !

Do you want my paypal address ? :-) I look at it the same way. When I hear about a bike accident I look to see what the cause was. When I'm riding if I "miss" something I keep it in mind so I don't make the same mistake again.

Thanks ! I've wanted to see if I could stand the bike up on my own but was always afraid to lean it over. this wasn't the way I wanted to lean it over...but it worked. BTW...thank you to Larry (Carbon One) for producing the engine guard brace. I put mine on a year or so ago and think this helped prevent the engine guard from bending. Pretty sure by the time the highway peg touched the ground I was at a full stop but glad I have the brace.

Been hot and humid here the past several days with threats of thunderstorms/severe weather. On the ride home from work today it started raining and was a pretty steady drizzle. I don't mind riding in the rain and was taking it relatively easy. Kitchener has this thing for traffic circles and we have two on my way home. First circle wasn't an issue. Second one... So... I'm approaching the circle and slowing down, using the engine to decelerate. Three vehicles in the circle and could tell the first two were going to go thru and exit to my right so I start to brake, expecting to come to a stop before entering the circle. Funny how things suddenly go in slow motion. As I start to brake, the rear locks up and starts to slide. The bike started to tilt to the right so I let off on the rear and the bike straightened up. Made sure I was going straight and not continuing my turn into the circle and applied the brakes again. Because I was more to the left than I would normally be, I was coming thru dirt/gravel the rear locked up again. Knowing that the bike was upright and the rear was locked I started looking for my exit. I knew that the first two cars were coming thru the intersection so my first thought was could I accelerate and pass between them or go thru after the second car. Playing that in my mind, the first car came to a stop right in front of me. Letting off the brake and navigating the turn wasn't going to be an option. It's front tire was directly in my path. Knowing the car was stopped and still in the skid, I applied more front brake. Surprisingly by this time I was thru the gravel and the front wheel caught traction. Knowing that a front wheel lock could take me down I prepared myself for a possible low side and sliding into the car. The bike started to lean to the left so I put my left foot down, just as the bike came to a sudden stop about 8' from the stopped car. With the angle of the bike I gave a faint effort to keep it from going down but realizing I wasn't going to stop it from going over, I let it go. Went over as far as the highway peg and stopped. Still on the bike I tried to stand it up but it wasn't going to budge. Turned off the engine with the key, disconnected my headset, and dismounted the bike. Even though it only took 5 seconds or so to happen, it seemed to take as long as it has taken you to read to this point. The car that had been right in front of me continued their journey. The car behind them exited and stopped. The third vehicle was going straight thru but they stopped at the exit from the circle and thru the window asked if I needed help. I said sure and then decided this way my chance to see if I could stand it up myself. By he time the driver approached me I had used the technique and had the bike up right and on the side stand. Thanked the driver for stopping, did a quick check for damage, got on, hooked up the headset, started the bike, checked that no one was coming up behind me, and continued on my way home. Checked when I got home and no damage or scrapes on the bike. Somehow I managed to bruise my lower right leg so bit sore there...even though the bike went to the left...but all in all in one piece. Rather than having to send in $5 I think I should receive $5 for the way I dealt with it. If anyone wants my email address, let me know. :-)

I ordered the 119148 from a local RV store ($85) and will have it on Friday. Should know by the end of the weekend whether this solves the issue. http://www.reeseprod.com/products/electrical-wiring/power-converters/modulite-hd-protector/!FQHI%7CfPlggjiHowRSguPU1Rk03rwmUUzXnrm32u2ms=

The thread I started that is similar is http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87011 My issue is that my un-powered 5-to-4 converter (trailer not even connected) seems to be passing the signal pulses back to the bike on the brake line thru the converter. Noticeable on my new under trunk LED light bar but other lights don't appear to be affected. I'm going to try to find a Reese Tow Ready Modulite #119147, #119180, or #119179

My current converter is not powered and would prefer to have a powered one. Some would disagree but there was a difference in how the trailer lights worked for four-ways or when the engine wasn't running. Been searching online for the "Tow Ready Modulite" converters but can't seem to find places I normall shop that carris them. Next step will be to call trailer stores. I know the Modulites are made by Reese but ones I've come across say "Reese" and don't look like the Modulites.

Response from Rivco : The SBRKL and FLSH unit should have nothing to do with your trailer wiring. The SBRKL and FLSH units should be wired to your bike’s stock harness before any converter or trailer wiring. What I think is happening is that after you have combined your brake and turn functions going from a five wire system to a four wire system you have splice in your SBRLK unit thus causing it to flash when you use the turn signals. I know I'm spliced in on the right side of the converter. Issue has to be with the converter itself. Trying to source the Modulite but it's a holiday in Canada today so will have to make calls tomorrow.

Response from Reese - "Suggest any of our Modulites, 119147, 119179, 119180 etc.." http://www.reeseprod.com/products/electrical-wiring/power-converters/modulite-hd-protector/!FQHI%7CfPlggjiHowRSguPav2ON633OLUqSOx9ExZOG0= "rated for up to 4.2 amps for Turns/Stops circuits and 7.5 amps for the Taillight circuit" http://www.reeseprod.com/products/electrical-wiring/power-converters/modulite-protector/!FQHI%7CfPlggjiHowRSguPQVnxcZ30CmEQTveMPZumQg= " rated for up to 2.1 amps for Turns/Stops circuits and 5.6 amps for the Taillight circuit" http://www.reeseprod.com/products/electrical-wiring/power-converters/modulite-protector/!FQHI%7CfPlggjiHowRSguPe5OReCcqZL3yqFLUPFvxf8= "rated for up to 2.1 amps for Turns/Stops circuits and 5.6 amps for the Taillight circuit" I think the rated numbers above might be the deciding factor - anyone comment on the differences? Each one shows the same description : - Draws power directly from the vehicle battery and uses less than 5mA of the vehicle circuit for sensing to turn the trailer functions on and off - Will work with either LED/Incandescent bulbs (vehicle & trailer) - Has integrated re-settable Short Circuit and Overload protection, to safeguard itself and the tow vehicle from shorts and installation wiring mishaps - Designed not to send feedback thru the vehicle circuits - The trailer brakes will override the hazard lamps when the brake is activated - The taillight circuit has been upgraded to work with vehicles that use a pulse width modulation (PWM), this will allow the converter to turn on fully and gives the trailer lights full brightness during activation - Will work with most vehicles that have a multiplex system for lighting - Will not work with vehicles with low-side switch - Can be used on a 2 wire or 3 wire system - All solid-state components in potted encapsulation - Includes integrated protective cover

i take it this would go on the brake wire between the converter and where I spliced into the bike wiring to prevent electricity flowing back to the bike wiring (only need one diode). Or are you suggesting it go on the Stop/turn conductors (so I'd need two diodes)? The converter I have is for both incandescent and LED lighting. I made sure it was correct when I bought it a couple years ago. Given that it is a couple years old... possible I need to replace the converter? Do they fail after a while?

I'm thinking I need a "modulator"/converter like http://www.reeseprod.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=2&parentid=1500&catID=1535&part=0 ... and "Designed not to send feedback thru the vehicle circuits" That opens up a question... is the RSV 4.2 amps for Turns/Stops circuits and 7.5 amps for the Taillight circuit or other?

Mine happens without the trailer connected. As soon as I remove the converter/isolater my issue goes away. The 5-to-4 way converter at some points "crosses" the brake and turn signals. That is feeding back to the bike but only affects the first device spliced in before the converter (my trunk light bar). My Custom Dynamics run/turn/brake, Custom Dynamics 100 LED brake light, trunk wing light are not noticeably affected. I emailed Rivco to see if they have any suggestions and will post their response.

Will post this here and if no responses will create a separate thread... When I hooked up the trunk LED I had Nancy hit the brake while I was standing behind it and everything looked great. I was going to post a video of how having only the trunk LED flashing looks so I put the camera on a tripod and then did the turn signals to show the Custom Dyanamics run/turn/brake, then the brakes. When I watched the video back, I noticed that the trunk LED flashed when the turn signals were on. So.... back to the drawing board, reconfirm where I had spliced in. I have M61's wiring harness and off the leads I have a 5-to-4 trailer converter attached. I spliced into the leads from the bike (before the converter) and confirmed I'm spliced into the correct wires. I have my converter connected with male/female plugs so it was easy to remove the converter. With the converter removed, all the lights worked properly. Put the converter back in, and the brake light flashes when the turn signal is on. I'm thinking that the 5-to-4 converter is feeding back thru the brake wire. (with the 5-to-4 converter the brake combines with the left/right turn signals). I'm going to email Rivco, but any suggestions?? Was wondering if a powered converter would do the trick.

TopSpeed write up - http://www.topspeed.com/cars/others/2016-polaris-slingshot-ar162041.html Bizjournal - http://www.bizjournals.com/twincities/news/2013/12/04/polaris-slingshot-3-wheel-roadster-2014.html?page=all They already have a forum started for it - http://www.slingshotforums.com/

Costco sells a trailer and swivel hitch online

There is a good difference in brightness

Think you'll enjoy that ride !

Went fairly easy. If you need help or have questions, let me know. The spacing is pretty tight for the bracket to the helmet hooks. Loosen the rubber so you can get in behind to put the bolt/nut on.

Easy enough to change it from constant flashing when the brake is applied to 5 seconds of flash then solid. Just have to disconnect two wires from each other. Thanks for the input !

....on the bike. On my '09 RSV some of the first additions I did was trunk wing and Custom Dynamics LED brake light and run/turn/brake signal lights. I've seen the under trunk LED light bars but hadn't seen any that had the "look" that I wanted...until I saw a light bar "The Count" (Steve) recently purchased. Slim, and black with lots of LED's...brake, but not turn. I checked pricing from the States but shipping to Canada was going to be $50 plus possible customs broker fees. I did a search for Canadian shops that carry Rivco and found one 15 minutes away from where I live - Vicious Cycle in New Dundee. I had purchased a couple Stebel horns from them and because pricing was reasonable from them, I called asked them if they could get the light bar for me and a flasher controller since they carry Rivco but didn't have the items listed on their web site. Price on he LED light bar was $6 more than the Rivco list price and the flasher was $3 more....and I didn't have to pay for shipping (picked it up). Okay...so what did I get (and pictures/video to come) ? Rivco "Super Bright Trunk Mount LED Tail and Brake Light" - http://www.rivcoproducts.com/products/product.php?productid=61&cat=0&page=1 It is 18” long, has 24 super bright LEDs and functions as both a tail and brake light. The curved arms make the light too long but it comes with metal "L" brackets that mount the light to the helmet locks. Also... LED Flashing Brake Light Modulator - http://www.rivcoproducts.com/products/product.php?productid=25&cat=0&page=1 Option of having the brake light flash 3 times per second continuously or can be set to flash/blink for 5 seconds and then remain on until brake is released and reapplied. This is set by connecting two green wires to have them flash constantly. The only light I connected to the flasher is the under trunk mount LED. My trunk wing light, centre brake light, and turn all stay on constantly. I set the trunk mount LED to flash constantly when the brake is applied. When I post a video later you'll see solid brake lights in a diamond shape with the flashing brake light in the centre. If anyone in Canada is looking for decent prices on items, check out Vicious Cycle's web site or call them and tell them what you want. Good people to deal with. http://aviciouscycle.ca/MainPages/Default.aspx (no affiliation). And again... yes, pictures to follow !

Anyone that has come over to do some work on their 2nd Gen at my place know I'm careful using my Canadian Tire lift. The pads extend across the width of the lift adapter...but that is about it. You have to make sure the front of the pads are against the stopper on the left side of the adapter. I also find that you need to use the lock because the hydraulic will slip slowly and lower the bike. Still... good price for a lift.

Since it started (hopefully with new gas)... definitely give it a can of Seafoam. Will work wonders on the fuel system. Before you do your next oil change, put some Seafoam in the oil...run it for a few miles before you change it. Post some pics...sounds like you got a great deal !