XV1100SE

If you get a used trunk the colour might not match and you'd have to get it painted. Check paint codes on the black trunks...they might be different. For example...the 2012 is black but has red flecks in it. Go thru insurance/dealer and they can get it painted the right colour as well as install everything for you.

I found a Harley license plate bracket on ebay and it arrived yesterday (@BonngoBob's mail drop). Installed it today. I've been told my CD run/turn/brake turn signals aren't very bright in direct sunlight so I'm using the HD bracket strickly as turn signals (amber LED's - from Chrome Glow -Flat Right Angle LED Bulbs from Drag Specialties, and amber 2" lens). The bracket came off of a bike and looks brand new! Paid $125 USD for the bracket but it came with the HD fender rack which I'm going to sell. From Chrome Glow I also got an LED headlight bulb. Going to see if this one causes radio interference like the one I got from China a couple months ago. Want to take Nancy for a ride on the bike to see what she thinks of the Baggershield but it's been raining a good part of the day. If she doesn't like it I'll be selling the Baggershield and going back to the Clearview. Not the bike, but on my HF Tag-along trailer I added LED lights to the upper shell and moved the license plate. Just have the final connection to make and silicone around the lights to prevent leaking - the rain showed me this.

If you are going thru insurance....Yamaha would have them... and the dealer can make sure nothing else was damaged.

Did you see these ? http://www.mtcvoyager.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Nessary-Information-for-Purchasing-a-Used-Voyager-Trike-Kit.pdf http://www.mtcvoyager.com/videos/ http://www.mtcvoyager.com/preload/ - has preload instructions - 1/2" preload for the Venture http://thetrikeman.net/HardwareKitInfo.html - hardware specs - how to ride http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/The%20Motorcycle%20Trike%20Conversion.doc - review and info That should keep you busy this weekend.

Another year...Hope you have a great day @bongobobny

Received my new lift today. It is an OTC 1545. From initial reaction : - packaging - well packed inside the box. Outer box could be better - 1500lb capacity to plenty for the Venture - 3-1/2-Inch at lowest level with a wide lift range of 3-1/2-Inch to 16-3/4-Inch - 17 inch long skids wide apart (does fit with the lift adapter) so load is nice and level. The jack I'm replacing is a Canadian Tire lift and the pads are just under 12" - always worried me when lifting or lowering the bike that the bike would fall off the lift - I've seen a few comments about the speed of lowering but to me it seemed fine - the "T" handle doesn't seem very rigid but should be fine for moving the bike - the four casters are nice and wide with the rear castors being lockable - there are also screw down "levelers" that would hold the lift in one spot - comes with nice tie down straps - no instructions for assembly but you only have the bottle and a bracket to bolt on. Parts diagram is included in three languages - safety stops and the locking arm seem to be solid I'll update my review after using it a few times but so far seems to be well built and solid. https://www.otctools.com/products/motorcycle-lift https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000OCHCIW/ref=pe_386430_202724850_TE_item ($302 CDN)

I didn't have visors on my turn signals and bought them when I went to the dealer to pick up a bolt. I rarely carry cash and didn't think the dealer would appreciate me running thru a $1 item on my credit card. The way Yamaha packages the turn signal visors is with shrink wrap against a cardboard. The front side is thick enough to peel off...but the way it molds to the back side it is more like Saran Wrap - really thin and sticks to the back of the visor. I tried to carefully peel it off, used a utility blade...still a royal pain. What worked best was a "stripe stripper". I used it on my car to remove vinyl "racing" stripes on my car and it worked removing the shrink wrap. Works sort of like a pencil eraser and can remove stripes, decals, pin striping on metal. DON'T use it on plastic parts ! I used Goo Gone to remove the glue like backing. https://www.amazon.ca/3M-Stripe-Wheel-Mandrel-Diameter/dp/B00063VT0G

...and don't forget the adjustment on the right side to adjust the headlight aim left/right.

I have to agree with you....that would help but still wouldn't stop people from driving distracted. Also bugs me when you see someone driving with their dog in their lap or hanging out the driver's window. I do the same for the same logic. Also gives me a clearer view of what is behind the oncoming car. If no one is behind the oncoming vehicle then I'll go back to the left track after taking a look. Other thing I'll do when approaching an intersection or a vehicle on a side street is move into a position in my lane where they can see me and I can see them. I'll even swerve back and forth so they pick up my headlight/driving lights (and ride with my high beam on during the day)

You need one load equalizer for the front and one for the back. With my Custom Dynamics run/turn/brake (rear - no LED's on the front) I had to add a second load balancer/resister. Then my lights worked properly. I'll assume you have load resistor on the front lights as well as the rear.....Eliminate where the issue is by putting incandescent bulbs in the front and see if the blinking goes back to normal. If not, repeat the test with the rear. If both tests don't resolve the problem, then hook up both load resisters to the rear, incandescent bulbs in front. If that fixes the problem, then try the LED's in front. If they start flashing fast....then you need to double up the resistors on the front too.

Thought I'd mention this in case someone else has problems with the CD R/T/B signal lights. I had one signal (rear) that would "sometimes" work. What I found was that the connector that plugs into the socket seemed to have a bad wire inside the base. The base is filled with what appears to be hot glue. I contacted CD and they said to send it back and they could repair it. Warranty appartently is on the LED bulbs, not the base. I'm too cheap to pay for shipping to send it back so what I did was : - cut off the CD base - take a bulb with the right base (think it was a 1157) and break off the glass, leaving the wires coming from the base to the filament intact but removed the filament. - soldered the CD signal light to the bulb base wires and heat shrunk it with multiple layers of tubing to fill the base I think this is now more solid than the way CD does theirs. My signal light now works every time ! Side note : The Custom Dynamics run/turn/brake lights are a great idea to light up the rear....HOWEVER....the turn signals aren't very visible in bright sunlight. I'm adding a Harley light bar that will be dedicated signals rather than run/brake. Going to put in dual intensity amber LED's from "Chrome Glow" with amber lenses. Bulbs are made by Drag Specialties and have 32 "super bright" LED's per "bulb".

Yesterday replaced the stator with Marcarl's help and repaired the lower left cowl. Today, mounted the Bagershield windscreen. Will see if I like it or prefer the Clearview.

http://www.carbtune.com/ "Delivered price to the US is $102"

Sooo......what are you doing next?

I use S&T, set my route, export it as a GPX file then copy the file to the folder directly on the Zumo. Import user data and I'm done.

I won a light bracket (68230-97B) on eBay. $125 USD and comes with a HD rack (which I'll sell). With comments about the Custom Dynamics run/turn/brake turn signal not being visible on my bike in bright sunlight...I'm considering how to use the light bracket. Thinking I'd like to wire them up as turn signals only (replace lens with clear) and use either incandescent or LED amber lights. From reading....the Harley light bracket has 1157 bulb connectors and "flat" red lenses. For rear lights I have : (top to bottom) - trunk wing light (run/brake) - under trunk light bar (run/brake - flashes for 5 seconds then solid) - original brake light with Custom Dynamics 100 LED cluster (brake) - turn signal housing (Custome Dynamics run/turn/brake) How do you use your HD light bracket? I know they were "factory" wired for run/brake but what bulbs are you using? Also looking for input - to replace the lens with clear and to go with an LED turn light, what would I need from Custom Dynamics (or other vendors) ? http://www.customdynamics.com/harley...rn_signals.htm . I think it would be GEN-200-A-1157E3T but it is shown as "front" http://www.customdynamics.com/harley.htm . I think it would be the HDFLATCLEAR lenses. Can lenses to match the Venture also be used rather than "flat" ?

I won a light bracket (68230-97B) on eBay. $125 USD and comes with a HD rack (which I'll sell). With comments about Custom Dynamics run/turn/brake turn signal not being visible in bright sunlight...I'm considering how to use the light bracket. Thinking I'd like to wire them up as turn signals only (replace lens with clear) and use either incandescent or LED amber lights. For rear lights I have : (top to bottom) - trunk wing light (run/brake) - under trunk light bar (run/brake) - original brake light - signal housing (run/turn/brake) How do you use your HD light bracket? As wired for run/brake? Turn? Also looking for input - to replace the lens with clear and to go with an LED turn light, what would I need from Custom Dynamics? http://www.customdynamics.com/harley_davidson_led_turn_signals.htm http://www.customdynamics.com/harley.htm

Very nice bike ! Enjoy it (safely) !

That piece on my lower cowling separated before as well. ABS cement...and good as new.

Has my vote ! Question for the LEO's and other first responders....do you want to have this recognition on your profile? Some may not want others to know. As for having the American flag...this recognition should be for first responders from any country.

I'd stay away from the "Blue Lives Matter". I don't think it shows the respect that our LEO's deserve

Long article but give a read - http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm Per https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease... "Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector withoutarcing.A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally, spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease film. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid deterioration from galvanic corrosion. Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. Products designed as electronic connector lubricants, on the other hand, should be applied to such connector contacts and can dramatically extend their useful life. Polyphenyl Ether, rather than silicone grease, is the active ingredient in some such connector lubricants. Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact that might experience arcing, as silicone can convert to silicon-carbide under arcing conditions, and accumulation of the silicon-carbide can cause the contacts to prematurely fail. (British Telecom had this problem in the 1970s when silicone Symel® sleeving was used in telephone exchanges. Vapor from the sleeving migrated to relay contacts and the resultant silicon-carbide caused intermittent connection.)"

Just to be sure....there is no dielectric grease on the electrical contacts...right? You don't want dielectric grease on the contacts themselves. Should only be on the boots

You are right...once you are here, you never want to leave ! Great group of people...or should I say "family".

Pretty sure that in Ontario premium does not contain ethanol. Someone contacted Petro Canada (gas chain in Canada) and the response was : "At petro-canada branded gas stations, not selling ultra 94, the premium 91 octane gasoline does not contain ethanol. This is for stations up to the muskoka area and from windsor to belleville.. In northern ontario, north bay, sudbury, s.s. Marie, timmins, thunder bay areas and in eastern ontario for the ottawa areas, including pembroke, cornwall and brockville, both regular and premium gasoline currently do not contain any ethanol." Shell 91 octane also ontains no ethanol in Canada.