XV1100SE

It is a shame and sad that any innocent person is harmed whether it is by a disturbed person with any kind of weapon or a careless driver injuring or killing a biker. This isn't about being pro or anti guns but is more of a comment about the different thinking in Canada vs the U.S.A. Let me say this on the Canadian perspective...or at least in my personal opinion. Living in Canada I don't feel threatened and therefore don't need to be "prepared" for a perceived threat. When someone feels their family, themselves, or their country is being threatened certainly they have that right to defend with reasonable force. Most Canadians still don't lock their doors, aren't afraid to be on the streets after dark...Police maintain order by preventing crime in most cases just by their presence or people knowing that they are only a couple minutes away. From what one sees in the media, I would think twice about walking in Chicago, Boston, or some major cities in the U.S.A. after dark. If I were in Toronto (same population size as Chicago) I have no worries about being out late at night. Chicago has the murder rate of all of Canada, and yes, I would be worried about my safety as well. I respect your opinions and your defence of your Constitution and it's amendments just as I would defend the Canadian Constitution and our way of life. What prompted me to respond to this thread was the OP's original post that "The polarization being created in the US disturbs me deeply". I think that polarization is being driven by events being brought about by social factors - usually brought about by lack of money due to lack of work.....

I don't think the problem is very large while moving...what about at a standstill ? If you are in 90+ temperatures and stuck in stop and go traffic (worst case situation)....there won't be air movement. Air cooled motors are cooled by air movement. No air movement, the engine heats up. How effective will the oil cooling be ?

Has anyone talked to a dealer about what they know about the bike? Or were reps asked at Americade about how they handle the summer heat? I would still have preferred the liquid cooled V4 and shaft drive...if I get the opportunity I'd take one for a spin...but with what I have invested in my 2nd Gen (chrome and add-ons) and that the motor is just broken in at 85,000 km (53,000 miles) with years of life in it...financially it wouldn't make sense for me to get a new Gen 3. As time goes by I'm softening to V-twin motor but still have questions on it such as lifecycle (what mileage would be expected out of it) and the heat from the motor. Neither of these questions are issues with the V4.

In Canada we see our "treasured part" to be things like universal health care, our Bill of Rights, Charter of Rights and Freedoms, Federal pension plan....to name a few. We see our government, military, police, and our intelligence agencies as our protection against foreign and domestic attack. Our multi-cultural nation with openness to accept people and cultures from anywhere in the world. Access to our government and representatives (our Prime Minister has been known to go for a walk at our Parliament and greet visitors). Our protection of the French language in Quebec is entrenched in our constitution (even though the British defeated the French in Canada in 1759). Women were able to vote federally in 1916 (1920 in the U.S.). Slavery was abolished in 1834 (by the British Parliament and applied to British colonies of which Canada was until 1867). And yes, we are not perfect...and we apologize for that (Canadians are known for their politeness). But since this was about what is "treasured"...I'll leave it at that.

Hmmm...even a 286cc engine is water cooled. Who'da thunk.

From http://www.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/ ...A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees.... ...A full-synthetic oil will withstand sump temperatures in excess of 300 degrees, ... http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/engine/0901mt-conventional-petroleum-oil-vs-synthetic-oil/ ...High oil temperature in excess of 240F will break down petroleum oils and cause oxidation, which in turn forms deposits, varnish, and increases wear.... ...Heat is a major enemy of any engine. Heat produces friction, and friction produces wear, and wear reduces the life of your engine....

For the umph off the line...confirm that all four cylinders are firing. From cold start the bike and the exhaust should heat up at the same rate. Check all 4 pipes coming off the cylinders...but remember they will get hot quickly. The Rotella T6 5W-40 is popular

Further search found this from Amsoil - saying it is okay - http://blog.amsoil.com/can-i-mix-synthetic-and-conventional-oil/ More : https://www.thoughtco.com/mixing-regular-and-synthetic-oil-p2-607586 "According to Mobil Oil, it should be fine to mix oils" "...not recommended to routinely mix oils because the additives in different products may interact or the oils may become destabilized by the mixture" I couldn't find the reference to synthetic and regular oil mixing that I saw last night. It will happen if you do full oil changes and switch from the other (not everything drains). So...mixing the two is fine based on the links above.

With the Mobile 1 being 10W-40....I think it got raised back up to 5w-40.

Very good point and certainly Yamaha wouldn't refer to the new "Venture" as a "transcontinental touring" bike if it has the negatives that we've been associating with Vtwins and belts. I'd like to see rider reviews rather than magazine reviews. I know we'll get more magazine write ups first so we'll have to wait and see. First and foremost will be how they deal with heat from the engine and how it handles a hot 90F + long day in the saddle. Puc....did you speak with any of the Yamaha people? Hopefully you pulled Mr. Star aside and expressed your points.

Did an oil change tonight in my RSV. Had two partial jugs of T6 and figured I had enough. So...drained the oil, changed the filter, poured in the first T6 jug in, poured the second T6 jug in (remember, both were partial)...then noticed the label on the T6 jugs. One was 0W-40 and the other 5w-40. I didn't know T6 came in two specifications. Guess at some point I ran T6 0W-40 when I normally run T6 5W-40. Okay....so oil level is still low (this is with the bike on the stand so I know the bike was level)....on the shelf I have a bottle and a half of Mobil 1 MX4T 10W40. The T6 is synthetic and so is the MX4T. So I pour in the MX4T. And of course... because I changed the filter...the oil level is just above the low level. I'd feel more comfortable if there was just a little more. I know you can mix different specifications of oil as long as they are the same. Mixing synthetic with synthetic is fine...but don't mix synthetic with regular oil. Things to note from this seamingly normal task : 1) when buying T6 there are different specification. 5W-40 would be the "normal" one to use. Make sure you read the label 2) when using up partial jugs of oil, have a full jug on hand just in case the partial jugs aren't enough

Just heard the news....Honda is going to replace the engine in the Goldwing and F6 with a v-twin. Yes, I'm kidding but....when you think Goldwing you think 6 cylinder....a real touring bike. Think Venture, whether 1st Gen or 2nd Gen we were proud that our bikes had a VMax 4 cylinder liquid cooled motor (even if it was de-tuned). Someone ask you about your bike the first thing you do is describe the engine. Saying "FOUR cylinder" made us stand out from the crowd. Anyone who has owned or ridden a 1st or 2nd Gen that gets the new "Venture" will mumble "v-twin" when describing their new scoot. V-twin doesn't stand out from the crowd but blends in with the other wannabe touring bikes. As mentioned, the shaft drive on a touring bike meant reliability. Chain and belt mean maintenance or breakdown in the middle of nowhere. Liquid cooled translates to consistent, manageable engine temperature which can also equate to engine longevity, just as much as regular oil changes. To me...the "new" Venture lacks the definition of a touring bike. You can dress it up with electronic gadgets and lights .... like a magician distracting an audience... but this to me is more in the lines of a cruiser. They would have been better calling it a "Stratoliner II". Release the bike in front of a crowd that only knows the v-twins and it is an exciting bike, a step up from whatever they've had. To the 1st and 2nd Gen Venture crowd though, this is a let down.

I haven't ridden a v-twin until it expired but generally v-twins are seen as being high mileage after 100k or so. Our v4's have gone over 300,000 miles and no one would consider the motor "high mileage" at 100k. Good point about people with experience riding the Strat and no issues with heat. This engine has been modified or redesigned so it may not be identical and hopefully improved but the fairing/cowling might alter airflow. Someone with a Strat, at what point do you consider that v-twin to be high mileage. High mileage means that the value of the bike is significantly lower, more expensive to maintain, becomes less reliable. I average 10,000 miles a year. Currently at 60,000 miles....my 2nd Gen motor will out live me.

950lb bike ....shaft drive best option for a touring bike...VMax 4 cylinder motor Touring bikes often go several hundred miles in a day in all weather and are running for hours....liquid cooled is best....VMax liquid cooled motor As for the horsepower lost by a shaft....simple solution....throw more horsepower at it. VMax motor even slightly de-tuned would drive a 950lb bike. It is interesting reading on some of the other forums. Victory people say this is what Victory should have put out - fix all the issues they've had. That is people who have driven nothing but a v-twin. As a fellow rider who has had the "bells and whistles" of a bike made for touring (RSV) there were only a few things they needed to do for a true third gen. Guess you don't miss what you never had.

Comparison of belt/chain/shaft - http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/mc-garage-video-motorcycle-final-drive-systems-compared In short (from the link) : - Packaging and difficulty of replacement are the biggest drawbacks. Belts can’t wrap as tightly as chains so they need to be run on big pulleys that wouldn’t necessarily fit on smaller bikes. And when it comes to replacing a drive belt, the process usually entails removing the swingarm. Belts also sap a lot more power than sprockets and chains, so they’re not nearly as efficient. - Drive shafts are low maintenance, run clean, are impervious to rain and dirt, and—barring any sort of freak failure—will last the life of the bike. Those are important benefits, but shafts are also expensive to build, they weigh a lot, and they sap a lot more power than other final-drive systems. And you can forget about easy gearing changes. - As with most things that are mass-produced, cost is a huge factor, and chains and sprockets are cheap to make. They’re also compact, fairly durable, easy to replace, offer easy gearing changes, and are the most efficient means of power transmission. Yes, chains require regular cleaning and lubrication, tend to make a mess of things, are quite a bit noisier, and wear out much faster than belts or shafts Another link - http://www.chuckhawks.com/motorcycle_drive_systems.htm Chain -The owner of a chain drive bike possesses the most time consumptive system in terms of maintenance. Chain drive requires a very well aligned rear wheel to ensure that the chain is running in a straight line. Chains must be lubricated on their INSIDE run, because the lubrication also cushions the steel sprockets from premature metal-on-metal wear....fixing even a flat tubeless tire requires complete removal of the rear wheel and dealing with a grease and dirt laden chain - Chains are usually supplied as “endless” units on new bikes from their makers, while replacement chains can have their pins staked by the shop that installs it, or by using a master link that is removable for off the bike cleaning and servicing of the chain. These spring clips can fail and cause the entire chain to become one nasty rotating projectile and usually locking the rear wheel, but simply degreasing that master link and dabbing on some high temperature silicon sealant pretty much precludes this from happening. - Finally, chains run dirty. “Chain fling” throws grease and dirt over all nearby surfaces, including the rider's leg, rear wheel, swing arm and the interior of the countershaft sprocket cover, among other places. Final drive chains are typically found on less expensive motorcycles, racing bikes, dirt bikes, enduro bikes and sport bikes. Belt - Belt drive is quieter than chain drives or shaft drives; indeed, they are the quietest of any of the drive systems. It is also highly efficient, very close to being as efficient as chain drive and considerably more efficient than shaft drive. Lacking any need for lubrication, periodic maintenance consists of occasional inspection for removal of excess dirt. - Belts run much cleaner than chains. ... A belt is generally quite a bit lighter than a chain itself, though the sprockets needed to drive it are generally heavier and larger than their chain drive counterparts. - belts do not create any kind of torque rise by the rear wheel extending, as do shaft drive systems when power is applied. This means a more consistent chassis attitude and a generally more comfortable ride quality and better handling - A properly inspected and tension maintained belt will typically outlast a chain by at least a factor of two or three, 40,000+ miles as a minimum. (H-D belts may go twice that far.) This means that most owners will never have to replace a drive belt. It is recommended to replace the belt pulleys every other belt change, because they do slowly wear. - Belt drive pulleys are generally more limited in selection for gearing changes than chain drive sprockets, although belt drive is more flexible in this regard than shaft drive. Toothed pulleys are more expensive to manufacture than the flat sprockets used by chains and consequently cost more to the consumer - belt drive is possibly not as durable as a chain when subjected to very high horsepower engines or if drag raced. Synthetic rubber reinforced with Kevlar is very strong stuff, but those little drive teeth can and will shear under abuse Shaft - shaft drives are the cleanest of all the drive system - due to the rear drive being fixed to the swing arm, there is no need for rear wheel alignment to be performed by the owner during tires changes or repairs. Indeed, on all current BMWs using shafts, the swing arm is single-sided and removal of the rear wheel is as simple as turning out four lug nuts with the included tool kit angle wrench, same as a car. No muss, no fuss, no access problem, no need to align an axle through a swing arm, or dealing with multiple washers or fasteners. - much heavier than other drive systems, degrading acceleration, handling and ride quality while increasing braking distance. While the drive case itself is cast aluminum, the ring and pinion helical gears, the drive shaft and its U-joints and the larger swing arm to contain and mount all that stuff are substantially heavier than other drive systems, resulting in higher unsprung weight - characteristic known as “shaft-jacking” effect. When one applies power to the wheel, the fixed pinion gear rotates in line with the end of the swing arm, but the ring gear that is 90-degrees from the pinion geometrically reacts to power application by causing a perceptible rise to the rider’s seat. - when power is chopped suddenly, the bike’s rear attitude drops just as quickly. If one is riding at a fast clip, exploring the limits of ground clearance and the rider is ham-fisted about cutting power, one could have hard parts levering the wheel to the outside of the turn, causing a crash. This is an “in extremis” case, but it is something old hands riding those older shaft bikes understand. - Shaft drives are also more expensive to buy on a new bike, as well as more complex than a chain or belt. They are typically slightly noisier than a belt, but quieter than a chain. Unlike a chain or belt drive, easy gearing changes are impractical. When the shaft unit finally needs a rebuild, usually at mileages near or exceeding 100,000 miles, they are the most expensive, due to gear replacement and possibly u-joint and main bearing replacement. However, most new motorcycle buyers will never put enough miles on their shaft drive motorcycles to require rebuilding the drive system

Premium gas?

Lot of pro's with the options like the infotainment system, keyless ignition, heated everything, high output alternator, parking assist (not sure what the forward assist is), lots of lights, electronic adjust windscreen, ABS (linked), 6 gears .... The luggage capacity is the larger than the RSV...the RSV has 33.6 gallon, the new Venture is total 37.3 gallons 957lbs vs 869lbs on the RSV Negatives (for me) .... - air cooled v-twin - belt drive - no heel/toe shifter Biggest negative... @ $26,999 (with Transcontinental package) that works out to about $36,450 with exchange. Ontario taxes are 13% so that brings it up to $41,186 CDN. I paid $14,000 CDN for my '09 (used 2 months with 2,500km on it). At that time, brand new were selling for $20,000 CDN Comparison (Canadian pricing on 2017 models) : Honda Goldwing w/ABS - $31,000 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Ultra Classic - $32,880 V-twins typically get less distance on the motor than the 4 cylinder Venture (my opinion) Would I like to take one on a test ride - Yes Do I like the additional features - Yes Would a Yamaha V-Twin prevent me from considering buying one - No Would belt drive prevent me from considering buying one - No Would the price prevent me from considering buying one - YES. Now....if it had a 4 cylinder I'd be watching for a used one in a year or so. The crowd reacted positively but the price is the major stopper. I like the looks and it has features I'd like, but comparing it to the 6 cylinder Goldwing.... they are priced too high.

I seem to remember you posting that you would be cutting across Ontario....If you are still doing that....what is your route and rough estimate of timing thru the Woodstock/Kitchener/Brantford area? Several members in this area and maybe we could hold you up for a few minutes for a coffee.

Glad she is okay....and glad you weren't sitting in the passenger seat !

Mine still work after a few years of use ! They seem to be pretty good. I'm just using mine on the bike so not being really hard on them. So far they haven't shown any wear.

I bought mine a year or so ago from http://www.gofastinnovations.com/jisscrewdrivers.html They shipped fairly quickly and are located in London, Ontario

If someone has a larger display.... from the picture of the guy in the yellow jacket to the guy in the blue/dark jacket.... is it the same side of the bike shown? For example...look for the heel/toe shifter....or is it the brake pedal? Is only one side of the bike captured or both in separate pictures?

Take a look at the picture of the VMax... only see a single pipe on each side.... and that's the v4 http://www.yamaha-motor.ca/products/details-build-price.php?model=4867&group=MC&catId=118

While you are waiting for the bolt...the ones holding the battery side cover (the ones that don't screw into anything) can be used. Also, the ones holding the plastic cover around the ignition also fit.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?127652-Harley-Muffler-Adapter-Dimensions There is a link that points you to Venturers that has a write up and dimensions. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=002009&id=253